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Posted: 1/7/2018 11:35:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: pezboytate]
United States Army Special Operations Command (USASOC) Upper Receiver Group, Improved (URG-I) and Naval Special Warfare (NSW) Upper Receiver Group, Improved (URG-I)

This thread is for pictures of and discussion about issued URG-Is and clones. That doesn't include "inspired by" rifles, "my take on an URG-I" rifles, Geissele Duty rifles, Geissele Super Duty rifles, or anything else. Please post those pictures here, here, or here.

Parts list for issued USASOC URG-I and NSW URG-I rifles:

Lower Receiver Group

lower receiver- M4A1

receiver extension- standard M4/M4A1

action spring- standard M4/M4A1

buffer- H2

grip- standard M16A2/M16A3/M16A4/M4/M4A1

stock- Type I, Type IIA, Type IIB, Gen 1 SOPMOD

trigger- Geissele SSF- P/N 05-102

selector- Colt/Manufacturing Support Industries full auto ambi- P/N SP401017

USASOC 14.5" Upper Receiver Group, Improved- from conversion kit NSN 1005-01-671-3911

upper receiver- standard M4/M4A1

bolt carrier group- standard M16A4/M4/M4A1

charging handle- Geissele Airborne Charging Handle in Desert Dirt Color with subdued markings- P/N 05-664S- NSN 1005-01-672-4803

barrel- Daniel Defense 14.5" mid length "GOV" profile with .076" gas port- P/N 07-077-07308

gas block- Daniel Defense pinned gas block which only comes on their rifles and URGs or barrel assemblies. Not available separately.

gas tube- Daniel Defense mid length- P/N 04-013-18034

hand guard- Geissele 13.5" MK16 in Desert Dirt Color- P/N 05-650S- NSN 1005-01-672-4794 (MK16s with no markings, laser P/N markings, and stamped NSN markings have all been seen in pictures)

M-LOK rail section- 3 ea Magpul 7 slot aluminum- P/N MAG582-BLK

M-LOK sling mount- Magpul QD- P/N MAG606-BLK

muzzle device- SureFire 4 prong flash hider- P/N FH556RC

suppressor- SureFire SOCOM in Dark Earth- P/N SOCOM556-RC

rear BUIS- Matech

front BUIS- Knight's Armament Front Flip Sight in Taupe P/N 99051

NSW 14.5" Upper Receiver Group, Improved- from conversion kit NSN 1005-01-671-3911

upper receiver- standard M4/M4A1

bolt carrier group- standard M16A4/M4/M4A1

charging handle- Geissele Airborne Charging Handle in Desert Dirt Color with subdued markings- P/N 05-664S- NSN 1005-01-672-4803

barrel- Daniel Defense 14.5" mid length "GOV" profile with .076" gas port- P/N 07-077-07308

gas block- Daniel Defense pinned gas block which only comes on their rifles and URGs or barrel assemblies. Not available separately.

gas tube- Daniel Defense mid length- P/N 04-013-18034

hand guard- Geissele 13.5" MK16 in Desert Dirt Color- P/N 05-650S- NSN 1005-01-672-4794 (MK16s with no markings, laser P/N markings, and stamped NSN markings have all been seen in pictures)

M-LOK rail section- 2 ea Magpul 7 slot aluminum- P/N MAG582-BLK

M-LOK light switch mount- Magpul Tape Switch Mountig Plate- P/N MAG631

M-LOK rail covers- 2 sets Geissele Rail Panel, Desert Dirt Color- P/N 04-428S

M-LOK sling mount- Magpul Paraclip- P/N MAG607-BLK

muzzle device- SureFire 4 prong flash hider- P/N FH556RC

suppressor- SureFire SOCOM in Dark Earth- P/N SOCOM556-RC

rear BUIS- Matech

front BUIS- Knight's Armament Front Flip Sight in Taupe P/N 99051

USASOC 11.5" Upper Receiver Group, Improved- from conversion kit NSN 1005-01-684-1906

upper receiver- standard M4/M4A1

bolt carrier group- standard M16A4/M4/M4A1

charging handle- Geissele Airborne Charging Handle in Desert Dirt Color with subdued markings- P/N 05-664S- NSN 1005-01-672-4803

barrel- Daniel Defense 11.5" "GOV" profile- P/N 07-077-07108

gas block- Daniel Defense pinned gas block which only comes on their rifles and URGs or barrel assemblies. Not available separately.

gas tube- Daniel Defense carbine length- P/N 04-013-01009

hand guard- Geissele 10.5" MK16 in Desert Dirt Color- P/N 05-1073S

M-LOK rail section- 3 ea Magpul 7 slot aluminum- P/N MAG582-BLK

sling mount- Magpul QD- P/N MAG606-BLK

muzzle device- SureFire 4 prong flash hider- P/N FH556RC

suppressor- SureFire SOCOM in Dark Earth- P/N SOCOM556-RC

rear BUIS- Matech

front BUIS- Knight's Armament Front Flip Sight in Taupe

NSW 11.5" Upper Receiver Group, Improved- from conversion kit NSN 1005-01-671-3911

upper receiver- standard M4/M4A1

bolt carrier group- standard M16A4/M4/M4A1

charging handle- Geissele Airborne Charging Handle in Desert Dirt Color with subdued markings- P/N 05-664S- NSN 1005-01-672-4803

barrel- Daniel Defense 11.5" "GOV" profile- P/N 07-077-07108

gas block- Daniel Defense pinned gas block which only comes on their rifles and URGs or barrel assemblies. Not available separately.

gas tube- Daniel Defense carbine length- P/N 04-013-01009

handguard- Geissele 10.5" Mk16 in Desert Dirt Color- P/N 05-1073S

M-LOK rail section- 2 ea Magpul 7 slot aluminum- P/N MAG582-BLK

M-LOK light switch mount- Magpul Tape Switch Mountig Plate- P/N MAG631

M-LOK rail covers- 2 sets Geissele Rail Panel, Desert Dirt Color- P/N 04-428S

M-LOK sling mount- Magpul Paraclip- P/N MAG607-BLK

muzzle device- SureFire 4 prong flash hider- P/N FH556RC

suppressor- SureFire SOCOM in Dark Earth- P/N SOCOM556-RC

rear BUIS- Matech

front BUIS- Knight's Armament Front Flip Sight in Taupe P/N 99051

10.3" Upper Receiver Group, Improved
NOT issued


Specs:

13.5" Mk16 mass- 419 g / 14.8 oz
14.5" barrel mass- 723g / 1 lb 8.1 oz
14.5" URG-I mass- 1.89kg / 4 lb 3 oz (14.5" RIS II URG with Govt profile barrel and same muzzle device is 2.00kg / 4 lb 7 oz)

10.5" Mk16 mass- 353 g / 12.5 oz
11.5" barrel mass - 620g / 1 lb 5.9 oz
11.5" barrel with gas block mass- 581g / 1 lb 4.5 oz
11.5" URG-I mass- 1.72kg / 3 lb 13 oz (10.3" RIS II URG with Govt profile barrel and same muzzle device is 1.71kg / 3 lb 12 oz)

9.3" Mk16 (not issued, only included for reference) mass- 335 g / 11.8 oz
10.3" barrel (not issued, only included for reference) mass - 525 g / 1 lb 2.5 oz
10.3" barrel with gas block (not issued, only included for reference) mass- 563 g / 1 lb 3.9 oz
10.3" URG-I (not issued, only included for reference) mass- 1.64kg / 3 lb 10 oz (10.3" RIS II URG with Govt profile barrel and same muzzle device is 1.71kg / 3 lb 12 oz)

Known upper receivers used on issued 14.5" URG-Is:
Attachment Attached File

Attachment Attached File

Attachment Attached File

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Attachment Attached File

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Known BCGs used in 14.5" URG-Is:
Attachment Attached File


14.5" URG-I gas blocks:
Attachment Attached File

Attachment Attached File


If you have any pictures that show issued upper receiver or BCG markings, please post them.

If you have any pictures of gas blocks on post testing issued URG-Is that are different, please post them.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 3:31:00 PM EDT
[#1]
So we should be using an H3 for the 10.3 urgi? not an h2?
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 3:35:48 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By VIP3R:
So we should be using an H3 for the 10.3 urgi? not an h2?
View Quote
Are we talking about clones or not?

If so, it would probably be H2 if these are ever issued.

If not, I'm a proponent of using the heaviest buffer possible. I use A5H4s (which won't work in a 10.3" with .070" gas port and .223) in all of my rifles.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 4:49:48 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By VIP3R:
So we should be using an H3 for the 10.3 urgi? not an h2?
View Quote
I guess it depends on what works for you personally,

H2 has ran suppressed and un suppressed with everything so far so thats where it stays.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 4:51:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: krdt] [#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By KILLERB6:
That means it transferred (if everyone is doing things correctly) as a rifle = can't ever be a pistol.
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Originally Posted By KILLERB6:
Originally Posted By splbass17:
Just posted this in "AR pistols", but real quick, you guys seem to be the most knowledgeable group here. If you don't mind me asking 2x

I have a fresh LMT defender lower, complete with the buttstock. Lower only, never part of a rifle.

I am going to put the URGI upper on the LMT lower and swap the buttstock with a brace. Can I use the rifle buffer that's on it currently? I see adjustable braces marketed lately, although I thought you have to use a smooth buffer tube for a pistol brace build. I'm confused about the laws on buffer tubes for pistols.
That means it transferred (if everyone is doing things correctly) as a rifle = can't ever be a pistol.
FYI, if everyone is doing things correctly, a receiver by itself with or without a stock should transfer as "other." ATF has opined on this before. The addition of the stock doesn't change how it should transfer (nor even its assembly history - which only adds to the confusion). An FFL is supposed to transfer what is in front of them, irrespective of its history. Now, if that lower with a buttstock had ever been assembled to an upper, it'd be "first a rifle" and no longer legally viable to build into a pistol (although it would still transfer as "other").

It is only after being assembled to a barreled upper that something can be classified a rifle (or pistol or "firearm"). Any lower without an assembly history (or one first assembled as a pistol) can be used as a pistol. Just remove the buttstock and build.

ETA: I should add the caveat that some manufacturers log things in an odd way, and some potentially test fire their complete lowers at the factory (and that can throw a wrench into the works). Unfortunately, you can't rely on just what you see or what is put on the 4473 if you want to follow the letter of the law. So, it's always a good idea to verify with the manufacturer what a particular lower was logged as and if it has any assembly history before building a pistol. Finding someone with the ability to answer those questions accurately might be another hurdle; the average rep answering the phones most likely doesn't have a clue, heh.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 5:36:38 PM EDT
[#5]
These will be going on an M4A1 lower when/ if issued. Which is automatic H2 buffer
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 5:49:22 PM EDT
[#6]
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 5:51:04 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3.
View Quote
Its important to note the H3 didn't work for you previously tho

Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 5:59:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: krdt] [#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Its important to note the H3 didn't work for you previously tho

Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3.
Its important to note the H3 didn't work for you previously tho

Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case
True, I didn't run an H3 with the DD 10.3" from the beginning. Can't say if it would've worked because I didn't try it until well over 1k rounds (and I started with an H). Definitely true about gas port erosion... as my DD 10.3 is nearing 10k with at least 60% of that being steel case, I can definitely notice the port opening up.

That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 6:04:40 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By krdt:
True, I didn't run an H3 with the DD 10.3" from the beginning. Can't say if it would've worked because I didn't try it until well over 1k rounds (and I started with an H). Definitely true about gas port erosion... as my DD 10.3 is nearing 10k with at least 60% of that being steel case, I can definitely notice the port opening up.

That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3.
Its important to note the H3 didn't work for you previously tho

Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case
True, I didn't run an H3 with the DD 10.3" from the beginning. Can't say if it would've worked because I didn't try it until well over 1k rounds (and I started with an H). Definitely true about gas port erosion... as my DD 10.3 is nearing 10k with at least 60% of that being steel case, I can definitely notice the port opening up.

That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly.
At 10K that port is going to look fuuuugly if you ever run a bore scope down it
But such is life.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 6:13:58 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
At 10K that port is going to look fuuuugly if you ever run a bore scope down it
But such is life.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3.
Its important to note the H3 didn't work for you previously tho

Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case
True, I didn't run an H3 with the DD 10.3" from the beginning. Can't say if it would've worked because I didn't try it until well over 1k rounds (and I started with an H). Definitely true about gas port erosion... as my DD 10.3 is nearing 10k with at least 60% of that being steel case, I can definitely notice the port opening up.

That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly.
At 10K that port is going to look fuuuugly if you ever run a bore scope down it
But such is life.
Oh, I'm sure it ain't pretty, lol.

I can clearly see my ejection pattern slowly creeping forward a little at a time. People can say what they will about that ol' "ejection pattern" chart, but I've found it pretty accurate when talking about mil-spec type builds. I suppose I could throw a BRT insert into it and bring things back down to .070, but I don't really think it's worth it. I don't expect to get much more than another 5k or so before accuracy starts opening up more than I'd like. Maybe a bit more if I continue shooting brass case.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 6:16:55 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By krdt:
Oh, I'm sure it ain't pretty, lol.

I can clearly see my ejection pattern slowly creeping forward a little at a time. People can say what they will about that ol' "ejection pattern" chart, but I've found it pretty accurate when talking about mil-spec type builds. I suppose I could throw a BRT insert into it and bring things back down to .070, but I don't really think it's worth it. I don't expect to get much more than another 5k or so before accuracy starts opening up more than I'd like. Maybe a bit more if I continue shooting brass case.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3.
Its important to note the H3 didn't work for you previously tho

Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case
True, I didn't run an H3 with the DD 10.3" from the beginning. Can't say if it would've worked because I didn't try it until well over 1k rounds (and I started with an H). Definitely true about gas port erosion... as my DD 10.3 is nearing 10k with at least 60% of that being steel case, I can definitely notice the port opening up.

That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly.
At 10K that port is going to look fuuuugly if you ever run a bore scope down it
But such is life.
Oh, I'm sure it ain't pretty, lol.

I can clearly see my ejection pattern slowly creeping forward a little at a time. People can say what they will about that ol' "ejection pattern" chart, but I've found it pretty accurate when talking about mil-spec type builds. I suppose I could throw a BRT insert into it and bring things back down to .070, but I don't really think it's worth it. I don't expect to get much more than another 5k or so before accuracy starts opening up more than I'd like. Maybe a bit more if I continue shooting brass case.
Yeah I wouldn't worry about it. If it was me I would run the H3 and shoot it until it keyholes, replace bolt/barrel, maybe gas block/gas tube if necessary.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 6:34:30 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Yeah I wouldn't worry about it. If it was me I would run the H3 and shoot it until it keyholes, replace bolt/barrel, maybe gas block/gas tube if necessary.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By krdt:
I run an H3 and standard spring in all my 10.3/.070 guns - although I seem to be in the minority in getting that configuration to reliably cycle steel case and other lower power .223 unsuppressed. For clone purposes an H2 as mentioned. Personally, I wouldn't worry about trying to "clone" something like a buffer; I'd run whatever works the best. For me, that's an H3.
Its important to note the H3 didn't work for you previously tho

Gas port erosion = heavier buffer can be used later in the barrels life cycle. At least in your case
True, I didn't run an H3 with the DD 10.3" from the beginning. Can't say if it would've worked because I didn't try it until well over 1k rounds (and I started with an H). Definitely true about gas port erosion... as my DD 10.3 is nearing 10k with at least 60% of that being steel case, I can definitely notice the port opening up.

That said, when I converted my Noveske 10.5" to a .070 insert, I ran an H3 from the beginning without issue. Also ran an H3 from the very beginning with one of the Andro/BA 10.3" .070" barrels. Worth noting that in both cases, the BCG and other parts were already broken in. So, it's kind of a toss up on that front. I think the port alone will have the potential to cycle reliably with an H3 assuming other parts are broken in. I definitely agree not every build is going to run an H3 reliably, and that is even more the case with a gun that hasn't been broken in properly.
At 10K that port is going to look fuuuugly if you ever run a bore scope down it
But such is life.
Oh, I'm sure it ain't pretty, lol.

I can clearly see my ejection pattern slowly creeping forward a little at a time. People can say what they will about that ol' "ejection pattern" chart, but I've found it pretty accurate when talking about mil-spec type builds. I suppose I could throw a BRT insert into it and bring things back down to .070, but I don't really think it's worth it. I don't expect to get much more than another 5k or so before accuracy starts opening up more than I'd like. Maybe a bit more if I continue shooting brass case.
Yeah I wouldn't worry about it. If it was me I would run the H3 and shoot it until it keyholes, replace bolt/barrel, maybe gas block/gas tube if necessary.
Yup... I've got that 6920 barrel that'll soon be chopped and a fresh Colt BCG ready to go in it when it's time. Gonna use the shaved FSB block since it's already double taper pinned and the new Colt gas tube that came with it. I might end up swapping that Colt barrel in sooner if I decide to do a URGI 10.3".

I just gotta make sure I catch it before it keyholes with a can on it, lol.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 10:13:15 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 10:17:06 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By VIP3R:
So we should be using an H3 for the 10.3 urgi? not an h2?
View Quote
H2 is the standard weight buffer for SOCOM.  That with all M4A1, URGs and URGIs.  Haven't been notified of any changes if so, I'll suddenly receive a case of them to upgrade.

CD
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 11:07:15 PM EDT
[#15]
Anyone know anything about 1-8 LVPOs being used on URG-Is? I heard a certain company won the SOCOM contract recently.
Link Posted: 12/4/2018 11:57:52 PM EDT
[#16]
Geissele 10.3'' URGI First Shots


Full "first shots" 10.3'' URGI upper drops either this week or next

This will have to do for now!
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 12:01:44 AM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By LowIllum134:
Anyone know anything about 1-8 LVPOs being used on URG-Is? I heard a certain company won the SOCOM contract recently.
View Quote
I haven’t heard such thing. Might have to read a few pages back.
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 12:14:13 AM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 12:45:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: delta_romeo_echo] [#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Skrapmetal:

Should be the same as this, except the tools. T30 wrench.

https://d524kaacpo0h1.cloudfront.net/media/files/SMR_MK14_M-LOK_Instructions.pdf
View Quote
Thanks @Skrapmetal

edit: I should have poked around a bit more, found these just now: https://geissele.com/installation-guides

Nothing specific to the MK16 rail but I'm sure torque specs are same for cross bolts when compared to the MK14 rail.
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 12:55:02 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Mrgunsngear:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9J3TbUu-zYQ

Full "first shots" 10.3'' URGI upper drops either this week or next

This will have to do for now!
View Quote
So you've had this for a while huh?  Cheeky monkey.....lol

Must be hard keeping a lid on this stuff with all the discussions going on....
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 1:38:52 PM EDT
[#21]
Where do you get the FDE anodized uppers?
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 2:25:50 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Slu54:
Where do you get the FDE anodized uppers?
View Quote
Older model colt fde, I also think FN has some completes using tano recievers
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 3:15:32 PM EDT
[#23]
I was mostly just concerned about what was the appropriate buffer to run properly.

I started seeing the H3 buffer thing then i was like...errr
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 3:17:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MILSPEC556] [#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By VIP3R:
I was mostly just concerned about what was the appropriate buffer to run properly.

I started seeing the H3 buffer thing then i was like...errr
View Quote
It'll most likely be the H2. You can try an H3 tho and see if it locks back on empty with your weakest ammo
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 6:09:51 PM EDT
[#25]
I've fired 360 rounds so far, 150 suppressed, with zero malfunctions, through my 10.3" URG-I. The included buffer and braided spring seem to work well with or without the can. I need to compare the Geissele Airborne Charging Handle with the PRI Gas-buster; the gas can get noticeable in multi-shot strings but hasn't been debilitating. I'm very pleased so far - the upper appears accurate, well built, and reliable.
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 6:15:31 PM EDT
[#26]
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 9:34:52 PM EDT
[#27]
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 9:47:09 PM EDT
[#28]
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 9:54:40 PM EDT
[#29]
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 9:56:41 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
You were supposed to get the barrel chopped to 10.1 INCHES not millimeters!
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 10:59:49 PM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Hows it shoot?
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 11:03:53 PM EDT
[#32]
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Originally Posted By iasc300ia:

Hows it shoot?
View Quote
0 recoil
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 11:04:02 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By iasc300ia:

Hows it shoot?
View Quote
There's no barrel in it bro

Prob not too good
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 11:53:34 PM EDT
[#34]
A few pages back there was some back and forth about Rocksett which all started with a failed attempt at removing a SF 4P in a rather unorthodox manner using Vice-Grips. I broke down my 14.5 today to swap the GB and thought I would share the experience here.

First off; the upper was assembled with great care and precision. I would expect nothing less from everything else I have seen and bought from Geissele. There are no wrench slip marks, blown out fasteners, all the roll pins are perfectly set and then marked with white paint. The barrel nut and 4P must have been put on by magic because there are no visible tool marks anywhere. The thread locker was perfectly applied and the 4P perfectly timed with a super cool alloy washer (and shims) that has a chamfered ID to clear the concave shoulder where the barrel transitions to the threaded section.

Super cool design feature: the cross bolts are locked into the rail with a spring detent that snaps into a reduced diameter groove when extracted and prevents them from being separated from the rail itself. The corresponding threaded block also deforms the pocket a bit so it doesn't fall out.

Loosen the cross bolts and slide them out until you hear the detent snap into the groove. The two small internal hex set screws (that center/stabilize the rail on the upper) must be backed out more than you think to clear the round barrel nut. When everything is loose you can pull and rotate the rail a bit until it come free. Its a nice tight fit. The set screws have a locking compound on them but the torque was fairly low.

From previous suggestions I soaked the end of the barrel in a bucket of warm water to accelerate softening of the Rocksett for probably 40 minutes. Just for kicks I figured I would try it first before applying any heat, a technique I use often. With the upper in a Magpul BEV block and locked into my bench vise I carefully wiggled on my Magpul Armorer's Wrench (its a tight fit) and gave it a twist. Surprisingly the 4P came off with moderate effort. If I had to guess using my calibrated forearms, I'd say it was about 25-30 ft lbs ;-)

The GB set screws actually required more effort than I expected. Using a torch I heated up the GB to probably 180+ degrees F. One came loose fairly easy, the other required more heat and even twisted the hex key a bit (its a cheapy Husky T handle from Home Depot). The screws have a decent amount of locking agent on them which makes sense considering the application. I was a little worried about stripping these so if you need to remove yours - go for the heat!

Just waiting for my BFS order to ship from the G man so I can get the G block installed and put things back together. I know we've discussed weights here but the more I handle this upper the lighter it feels. Maybe its the slim profile of the rail and the gov profile barrel that contribute to it but i can't wait to mate it up with a lower and get it on the range!
Link Posted: 12/5/2018 11:57:42 PM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By delta_romeo_echo:
A few pages back there was some back and forth about Rocksett which all started with a failed attempt at removing a SF 4P in a rather unorthodox manner using Vice-Grips. I broke down my 14.5 today to swap the GB and thought I would share the experience here.

First off; the upper was assembled with great care and precision. I would expect nothing less from everything else I have seen and bought from Geissele. There are no wrench slip marks, blown out fasteners, all the roll pins are perfectly set and then marked with white paint. The barrel nut and 4P must have been put on by magic because there are no visible tool marks anywhere. The thread locker was perfectly applied and the 4P perfectly timed with a super cool alloy washer (and shims) that has a chamfered ID to clear the concave shoulder where the barrel transitions to the threaded section.

Super cool design feature: the cross bolts are locked into the rail with a spring detent that snaps into a reduced diameter groove when extracted and prevents them from being separated from the rail itself. The corresponding threaded block also deforms the pocket a bit so it doesn't fall out.

Loosen the cross bolts and slide them out until you hear the detent snap into the groove. The two small internal hex set screws (that center/stabilize the rail on the upper) must be backed out more than you think to clear the round barrel nut. When everything is loose you can pull and rotate the rail a bit until it come free. Its a nice tight fit. The set screws have a locking compound on them but the torque was fairly low.

From previous suggestions I soaked the end of the barrel in a bucket of warm water to accelerate softening of the Rocksett for probably 40 minutes. Just for kicks I figured I would try it first before applying any heat, a technique I use often. With the upper in a Magpul BEV block and locked into my bench vise I carefully wiggled on my Magpul Armorer's Wrench (its a tight fit) and gave it a twist. Surprisingly the 4P came off with moderate effort. If I had to guess using my calibrated forearms, I'd say it was about 25-30 ft lbs ;-)

The GB set screws actually required more effort than I expected. Using a torch I heated up the GB to probably 180+ degrees F. One came loose fairly easy, the other required more heat and even twisted the hex key a bit (its a cheapy Husky T handle from Home Depot). The screws have a decent amount of locking agent on them which makes sense considering the application. I was a little worried about stripping these so if you need to remove yours - go for the heat!

Just waiting for my BFS order to ship from the G man so I can get the G block installed and put things back together. I know we've discussed weights here but the more I handle this upper the lighter it feels. Maybe its the slim profile of the rail and the gov profile barrel that contribute to it but i can't wait to mate it up with a lower and get it on the range!
View Quote
Warm water was the way to go. Appreciate the write up

Maybe not everyone sees eye to eye on this but soaking rocksett to solulate it is IMO, better than just relying on brute force. Heat + water = probably the smartest and safest method of removal
Link Posted: 12/6/2018 1:44:07 AM EDT
[#36]
Link Posted: 12/6/2018 10:39:17 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By VIP3R:
So we should be using an H3 for the 10.3 urgi? not an h2?
View Quote
For what it's worth, my 10.3" URGI came with a Geissele H3 marked buffer with the braided spring.
Link Posted: 12/6/2018 11:14:28 PM EDT
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TEXASGUNGUY022003:
Quick question (non-clone). If one were to go 16" on the barrel with an ops inc collar...would the AEM5 clear the rail?
View Quote
I mocked up my AEM5 on a 16” Middy with a 13” ALG rail. The ALG is true 13”, and I have about 3/16” clearance to the can. Hope this helps.
Link Posted: 12/7/2018 4:36:31 AM EDT
[#39]
Not sure if i should keep the atacr on here permanent or go back to tanodized acog
Link Posted: 12/7/2018 12:05:04 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By nhojyelbom:
Not sure if i should keep the atacr on here permanent or go back to tanodized acog
http://i.imgur.com/RdLuN1Y.jpg
View Quote
You need to put it in a Geissele SOCOM mount first, then decide.  Rings are so MK12...
Link Posted: 12/7/2018 12:49:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: tonyxcom] [#41]
I've got 2 Golden tickets I can't use because I'm in Kalifornia.

If you are actually going to use it, first 2 people to PM can have them.

PLEASE only request it if you know you are going to actually use one.

Edit: I will pm you the code, and mail the coupon since you will need it to redeem for the RC-DE

EDIT:  GONE
Link Posted: 12/7/2018 12:59:00 PM EDT
[#42]
Link Posted: 12/7/2018 1:18:17 PM EDT
[#43]
Link Posted: 12/7/2018 1:26:01 PM EDT
[#44]
Link Posted: 12/7/2018 3:20:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ejc204] [#45]
Posted by accident meant to send a PM
Link Posted: 12/7/2018 3:42:12 PM EDT
[#46]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By tonyxcom:
I've got 2 Golden tickets I can't use because I'm in Kalifornia.

If you are actually going to use it, first 2 people to PM can have them.

PLEASE only request it if you know you are going to actually use one.

Edit: I will pm you the code, and mail the coupon since you will need it to redeem for the RC-DE

EDIT:  GONE
View Quote
thanks man!
Link Posted: 12/7/2018 7:44:54 PM EDT
[#47]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By KILLERB6:
You and I are the only two ARFCOMers who seem to think this...it comes up in every "which color" thread; I gave up giving my opinon.

The only thing almost everyone agrees on:  amber (ACOG) is the worst.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By KILLERB6:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:

Precisely why I decided against green at one split moment when I looked into a tree line and the reticle blended in way more than red did. I like Amber too, like the tritium on the TA01NSN and some of the RMR's. Amber works well for me. Red works well for me. Green only did against not green backgrounds. Problem is other than ocean, most of this planet is green too.
You and I are the only two ARFCOMers who seem to think this...it comes up in every "which color" thread; I gave up giving my opinon.

The only thing almost everyone agrees on:  amber (ACOG) is the worst.
Count me in, too.  I have an old Vortex Strikefire II that has red and green illumination.  I've switched back and forth many times.  Though, I do like the green, I have found more situation where the red is a distinct contrast to the background.
Link Posted: 12/8/2018 4:20:29 AM EDT
[#48]
Anyone running colt socom barrels on their 14.5?
Link Posted: 12/8/2018 4:31:00 AM EDT
[#49]
Speaking of golden tickets, has anyone redeemed theirs yet?

How was the process?
Link Posted: 12/8/2018 6:20:57 AM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By WTFShane:

CQBR URGI?
View Quote
I got the full size.  I really don't need another "pistol" or SBR upper.  I'll have to think about that one.  I still need to shoot my URGI.

Related, bad-ish news: I found out the hard way, just playing around with my NX8 yesterday that when illuminated, it's apparently not much more forgiving than an EOTech on anything but near max magnification, as far as my astigmatism is concerned.  It looks like a sideways infinity symbol to me.  This was bare eyes, no glasses (I only wear for distance, for now).
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