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Posted: 9/11/2010 8:39:57 PM EDT
[#1]
Qtip and hopps i don't worry about it to much just a good cleaning.
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Posted: 9/11/2010 8:54:57 PM EDT
[#2]
cleaning rods and scraping.
Edit- YOu take 3-4 cleaning rod sections, and fit them into the BCG, female end down and twist them around. Gets everything out. |
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Posted: 9/11/2010 9:01:10 PM EDT
[#3]
Most will say it is no big deal, but I really like my Larue CAT tool. Makes removing the carbon build up in the carrier and on the bolt tail so simple. Takes about 30 seconds to do both
http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=320 |
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Posted: 9/11/2010 9:04:44 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Most will say it is no big deal, but I really like my Larue CAT tool. Makes removing the carbon build up in the carrier and on the bolt tail so simple. Takes about 30 seconds to do both http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=320 +1 I also have the Brownells carbon scraper but prefer the CAT M-4 tool. It works great for the carrier and bolt... |
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Posted: 9/11/2010 9:30:41 PM EDT
[#5]
Soak it with CLP & Hopps while you clean the rest of your rifles. Then I use a small flat tip screw driver to scrape it out of the back of the bolt carrier. Between a flat tip and dental tools you should get most if not all of it.
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Posted: 9/11/2010 9:42:51 PM EDT
[#6]
Soak it in whatever? everybody has there own brands?
Ive used cheap Non Chlor Brake Cleaner to spray out my upper / carrie/bolt before cleaning Just got some non toxic M Pro 7 32oz cleaner to try out. cost under 25 bucks at midawayusa Havent tried it yet |
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Posted: 9/11/2010 9:54:58 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Most will say it is no big deal, but I really like my Larue CAT tool. Makes removing the carbon build up in the carrier and on the bolt tail so simple. Takes about 30 seconds to do both http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=320 +1 I also soak small parts in a mixture of odorless mineral spirits and CLP. |
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Posted: 9/11/2010 10:02:20 PM EDT
[#8]
Non-Chlor break cleaner along with Break Free CLP
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Posted: 9/11/2010 10:54:15 PM EDT
[#9]
I also am looking into a CAT M4 cleaning tool, they also said they were making one of the AR-10 but it isn't in production as of yet...anyway...
I am too OCD about my BCG...I soak it in Break Free and use a 50 cal muzzle loader brush then go in with a 20 ga bore brush..12ga on my AR-10...and a steel pick to get it all clean....I was taught by one of my SGTs "A clean weapon will save your ass, when you need it" so get it as clean as possible and you will sleep better...LOL SASS Cleaning the M-15 Part 5 The BCG |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 4:01:30 AM EDT
[#10]
+1
Quoted:
Quoted:
Most will say it is no big deal, but I really like my Larue CAT tool. Makes removing the carbon build up in the carrier and on the bolt tail so simple. Takes about 30 seconds to do both http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=320 +1 I also soak small parts in a mixture of odorless mineral spirits and CLP. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 4:16:13 AM EDT
[#11]
+1 for the CAT-M4 tool.
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Posted: 9/12/2010 4:26:46 AM EDT
[#12]
Don't worry the carbon build up is self limiting. I don't even bother............But carb cleaner is made to remove carbon deposits
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Posted: 9/12/2010 4:42:17 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Don't worry the carbon build up is self limiting. I don't even bother............But carb cleaner is made to remove carbon deposits Yep . Some of these guys are going to wear out their bcg by over cleaning them |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 4:45:49 AM EDT
[#14]
CARBON KILLER
This is made by Slip 2000 and it is awesome. Its expensive at around $50 for the gallon size jug. But, it is supposed to last for years. I poured a quart of it into a soaking pan, and put 4 dirty complete BCG's in to soak overnight. The next day I took them out and disassembled them one at a time and cleaned each piece. Even the tough sections around the tail of the bolt just wiped clean with a paper towel. A couple hard flecks remained but a little scrub with the wire brush and it came right off. When I was done, I just poured the Carbon Killer back into a quart jar and put it on my gun shelf. It is completely reusable. I also use it for my suppressors. It cleans the carbon out very well. The best part is that its non-hazardous, non-flammable and biodegradable. 
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Posted: 9/12/2010 4:59:53 AM EDT
[#15]
shoot it...it's self cleaning
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Posted: 9/12/2010 7:04:52 AM EDT
[#16]
Do what you want in regards to cleaning, however, talk to some Armorer's that see alot of guns with rounds fired and they will tell you that this build up will lead to(not the only cause)broken bolts. It stresses the tolerances toa degreee and does matter.
I know it's "cool" now not to clean a gun, but like I said, it's yours––and your ass |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 7:21:41 AM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Don't worry the carbon build up is self limiting. I don't even bother............But carb cleaner is made to remove carbon deposits my uppers for the 16 dont get cleaned and they do just fine |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 7:22:23 AM EDT
[#18]
ammo strip clip and a green dish scrubby...
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Posted: 9/12/2010 7:24:35 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Do what you want in regards to cleaning, however, talk to some Armorer's that see alot of guns with rounds fired and they will tell you that this build up will lead to(not the only cause)broken bolts. It stresses the tolerances toa degreee and does matter. how does it stress a part when it basically breaks off own its own, its not like a weld that you cant easily dislodge. I you shoot a couple drops clp in there while your shooting/after your done, the carbon will turn to sludge and get blown out the side. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 7:38:12 AM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Do what you want in regards to cleaning, however, talk to some Armorer's that see alot of guns with rounds fired and they will tell you that this build up will lead to(not the only cause)broken bolts. It stresses the tolerances toa degreee and does matter. how does it stress a part when it basically breaks off own its own, its not like a weld that you cant easily dislodge. I you shoot a couple drops clp in there while your shooting/after your done, the carbon will turn to sludge and get blown out the side. This is a first for me (that carbon build up will cause broken bolts) I wonder if thats the reason Pats Colt Kaboom? |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 8:10:27 AM EDT
[#21]
Just keep it lubed and clean as best you can.I use the magnamatic tool for my DI ARs..for my piston ARs its no longer an issue.I use slipcarbon cutter as well.
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Posted: 9/12/2010 8:21:07 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Do what you want in regards to cleaning, however, talk to some Armorer's that see alot of guns with rounds fired and they will tell you that this build up will lead to(not the only cause)broken bolts. It stresses the tolerances toa degreee and does matter. I know it's "cool" now not to clean a gun, but like I said, it's yours––and your ass seriously.......tell your armorer buddies they should find a new profession |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 8:32:52 AM EDT
[#23]
I use carb cleaner. Keeping that area wet with CLP or something like that makes it easier to clean the next time around.
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Posted: 9/12/2010 9:03:04 AM EDT
[#24]
I had one of the $25 ones with the big handle on it but found that this cheaper one works much better.
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Posted: 9/12/2010 9:08:28 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
CARBON KILLER This is made by Slip 2000 and it is awesome. Its expensive at around $50 for the gallon size jug. But, it is supposed to last for years. I poured a quart of it into a soaking pan, and put 4 dirty complete BCG's in to soak overnight. The next day I took them out and disassembled them one at a time and cleaned each piece. Even the tough sections around the tail of the bolt just wiped clean with a paper towel. A couple hard flecks remained but a little scrub with the wire brush and it came right off. When I was done, I just poured the Carbon Killer back into a quart jar and put it on my gun shelf. It is completely reusable. I also use it for my suppressors. It cleans the carbon out very well. The best part is that its non-hazardous, non-flammable and biodegradable. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/carbonkiller.jpg + 1 to the Carbon Killer product. It does work well. That said, you may consider revising your method a bit as it relates to the length of soak time. Per SLiP's recommendation, the parts are only suppossed to be allowed to soak for 5 - 15 minutes, not overnight. Also, people need to be aware that it's critical to completely re-lube all BCG components immediately after they've been soaked/cleaned with the Carbon Killer. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 9:30:14 AM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:
CARBON KILLER This is made by Slip 2000 and it is awesome. Its expensive at around $50 for the gallon size jug. But, it is supposed to last for years. I poured a quart of it into a soaking pan, and put 4 dirty complete BCG's in to soak overnight. The next day I took them out and disassembled them one at a time and cleaned each piece. Even the tough sections around the tail of the bolt just wiped clean with a paper towel. A couple hard flecks remained but a little scrub with the wire brush and it came right off. When I was done, I just poured the Carbon Killer back into a quart jar and put it on my gun shelf. It is completely reusable. I also use it for my suppressors. It cleans the carbon out very well. The best part is that its non-hazardous, non-flammable and biodegradable. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/carbonkiller.jpg + 1 to the Carbon Killer product. It does work well. That said, you may consider revising your method a bit as it relates to the length of soak time. Per SLiP's recommendation, the parts are only suppossed to be allowed to soak for 5 - 15 minutes, not overnight. Also, people need to be aware that it's critical to completely re-lube all BCG components immediately after they've been soaked/cleaned with the Carbon Killer. Enen though they recommend 5-15 minutes, is there any issues to leaving in longer for those who go long periods without cleaning? |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 10:09:26 AM EDT
[#27]
The label on the bottle that I have has a warning about the potential for certain finishes (anodizing, bluing ...) to be damaged if left in the solution for longer than the recommended times. There doesn't seem to be any mention of parkerizing, but in this instance *I* simply prefer to err on the side of caution and follow their instructions. Especially since I'm not necessarily convinced that extra-long soak times with that stuff will yield significant "extra benefits" in terms of cleaning. My suggestion, if you want to soak BCG components for an extended period of time, would be to use either Hoppes #9 or QUIB's mixture instead. In fact, I keep meaning to try out a 50/50 mix of OMS and Marvel Mystery Oil for this very purpose. It's just a variation of QUIB's "recipe". The MMO appears to be mostly mineral spirits to begin with, and a lot of people claim that it works wonders at removing carbon deposits in automobile engines. I think it would be interesting to see how well that blend works on really dirty BCGs. YMMV. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 10:48:20 AM EDT
[#28]
1) Squirt CLP in the 2 holes in the carrier.
2) Run a couple mags quickly through the rifle to break up the carbon. The heat will help a lot. 3) Disassemble when cooled and swab out the carrier with a 45-50 caliber pistol cleaning brush with a patch soaked in hoppes wrapped around it. That'll get 90% of the fouling out. If you're shooting reloads with good powder that doesn't foul so much, even better. There is no need to get it spotless and you don't need that special tool the companies sell to cut it out. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 12:36:03 PM EDT
[#29]
Guys know a good container with a lid
Nothing big? enough to cover 2 carrier/bolt/ CH |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 12:59:44 PM EDT
[#30]
what about a flour or sugar container with metal lock down lid like a mason jar?
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Posted: 9/12/2010 1:38:32 PM EDT
[#31]
i use an old .30cal copper brush and scrub it. Gets it clean with a little elbow grease/.
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Posted: 9/12/2010 2:23:22 PM EDT
[#32]
I use Slip-2000 Carbon killer in an ultrasonic cleaner that I picked up from Harbor Freight.
I don’t clean them that often, but when I do that’s what I use. I first take the CAT-4 tool and run the bolt and carrier under hot soapy water while scraping the big chunks of carbon off… then I place them in the ultrasonic cleaner for 2-3 cycles (8min cycles with heat) then I use a patch on the CAT-4 tool to get the rest. Coat in SLIP-2000 EWL and blow excess off with dry compressed air. Like I said, I don’t do it often (maybe every 1500-2000 rds) but that’s how I do it. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 2:58:28 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
what about a flour or sugar container with metal lock down lid like a mason jar? Thanks for the Tip 
I will look into it |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 3:24:58 PM EDT
[#34]
I just used a brass shell casing to scrape the carbon off the tail of a bolt.
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Posted: 9/12/2010 3:45:03 PM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
Quoted:
what about a flour or sugar container with metal lock down lid like a mason jar? Thanks for the Tip
I will look into it I just used a glass spaghetti sauce jar, like a mason jar. Of course you have to paint the lid tactical black to be cool. 
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Posted: 9/12/2010 3:49:05 PM EDT
[#36]
Quoted:
I just used a glass spaghetti sauce jar, like a mason jar. Of course you have to paint the lid tactical black to be cool. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/DSC_0001.jpg Nice touch ... 
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Posted: 9/12/2010 4:13:01 PM EDT
[#37]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Do what you want in regards to cleaning, however, talk to some Armorer's that see alot of guns with rounds fired and they will tell you that this build up will lead to(not the only cause)broken bolts. It stresses the tolerances toa degreee and does matter. how does it stress a part when it basically breaks off own its own, its not like a weld that you cant easily dislodge. I you shoot a couple drops clp in there while your shooting/after your done, the carbon will turn to sludge and get blown out the side. This is a first for me (that carbon build up will cause broken bolts) I wonder if thats the reason Pats Colt Kaboom? This is the kind of unsubstantiated 3rd hand info that gets silly shit to become the gospel on the internet...Folks for years to come will be quoting on how not cleaning the carbon off there bolt caused it to break. Guns break from use...the more you use it, the more likely it will break. Bolts don't last forever... There have been SUBSTANTIATED documented guns that have specific round counts and not being cleaned that say just the opposite. There are very few armorers that actually know a lot about the AR system.. Most know enough to be dangerous and usually pick up the same BS 3rd hand info and spread it as well.... Don't be hurt... the truth often can be painful.... |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 6:36:47 PM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Do what you want in regards to cleaning, however, talk to some Armorer's that see alot of guns with rounds fired and they will tell you that this build up will lead to(not the only cause)broken bolts. It stresses the tolerances toa degreee and does matter. how does it stress a part when it basically breaks off own its own, its not like a weld that you cant easily dislodge. I you shoot a couple drops clp in there while your shooting/after your done, the carbon will turn to sludge and get blown out the side. This is a first for me (that carbon build up will cause broken bolts) I wonder if thats the reason Pats Colt Kaboom? This is the kind of unsubstantiated 3rd hand info that gets silly shit to become the gospel on the internet...Folks for years to come will be quoteing on how not cleaning the carbon off there bolt caused it to break. Guns break from use...the more you use it, the more likely it will break. Bolts don't last forever... There have been SUBSTANTIATED documented guns that have specific run counts and not being cleaned that say just the opposite. There are very few armorers that actually know a lot about the AR system.. Most know enough to be dangerous and usually pick up the same BS 3rd hand info and spread it as well.... Don't be hurt... the truth often can be painful.... Well said Sir!
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