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Posted: 9/17/2009 7:57:08 AM EDT
[#1]
Tighten and untighten a few times. It should be able to move over then.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:07:23 AM EDT
[#2]
really ? seems very difficult because very far still... but will try. Thx !
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:10:06 AM EDT
[#3]
+1
also dont forget to put anti-seize molybdenum grease on the threads. ETA: voglio vedere le foto del tuo nuovo giocattolo! 
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:14:29 AM EDT
[#4]
here it is.. (but from that picture i got a Comp M2 aimpoint and changed the RAS with a FF RAS..)
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:18:04 AM EDT
[#5]
awsome! |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:19:43 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
awsome! |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:42:21 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
here it is.. (but from that picture i got a Comp M2 aimpoint and changed the RAS with a FF RAS..) http://i84.servimg.com/u/f84/11/94/71/06/mk18ct10.jpg That is some kind of sweet right there! 
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:43:59 AM EDT
[#8]
thx a lot guys, but this is not a thread about my Mk18
 ..
please, if you have any other tip for a "in between" situation with barrel nut, please let me know ;) |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:49:20 AM EDT
[#9]
do you have a torque wrench?
here is how I did mine: put grease on threads;
Torque & loosen barrel nut three times: set torque wrench to minimum value (30 ft/lbs) and torque barrel nut; If barrel nut slot does not line up set torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs and torque until slot lines up or max torque value is reached. |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:50:53 AM EDT
[#10]
The range is 30 to 80 ft-lbs––––––-meaning you don't have to be at 80––-if it lines up within that range––-go with that.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:59:14 AM EDT
[#11]
I only have the wrench.. I can't really mesure the torque.. I will have to guess... I am really affraid I cannot reach the next hole, but I will try.. maybe with your technique (tighten, untighten many times) it will work !
thx guys ! |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:02:18 AM EDT
[#12]
It won't seem like much force with a 24" (60cm) breaker bar attached to your barrel wrench (my method of choice). The process is quite simple. Torque to 30-35 ftlbs. loosen (repeat three times), then advance to the next channel if necessary. Think of the thousands upon thousands of rifles that have been assembled this way. Your's is no different.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:05:44 AM EDT
[#13]
I understand.. I was onlly worried about breaking something.. that is why, until now, I didnt made the wrench longer to apply a little more force..
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:44:15 AM EDT
[#14]
I had the same problem when building my wife's pistol upper, but I tightened and loosened a few times like everyone has said and I eventually got it to line up. It was a tight biotch.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:01:40 PM EDT
[#15]
It was a tight biotch.
i'm affraid I understand, and it doesnt sound english ;) |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:03:52 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
It was a tight biotch.
i'm affraid I understand, and it doesnt sound english ;) tight bitch |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:30:11 PM EDT
[#17]
Basically the torque range allows enough rotation of the nut so that if its just a tick too far, you can safely go to the next notch without hurting anything.
The tighten/untighten thing works well too. You WONT break anything assuming you have the upper in a good block and the proper wrench for the job. Either way, there isnt much you can do! Almost have to go for it. |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 1:08:25 PM EDT
[#18]
Did it !
thx guys !!! it's VERY tight now, and I hope I don't have to remove it anytime soon ;) I put a lot of moby grease so I hope it would help whenever I'd decide to remove it.. For my fronstight pins (not taper pins unfortunately) that were getting loose after 6 or 7 in and outs (I had to do this to tune my gasport correctly) , I placed a fine steel filament (from a steel brush) to make them very tight.. Now, even the frontsight is rock solid. it should do. Will shoot tomorrow and tell you how it went ! btw, I understood the biotch, but it sounded a lot like the russian word "biatch" .. anyway, same meaning .. I guess this is universal language :p |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 1:12:48 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
For my fronstight pins (not taper pins unfortunately) that were getting loose after 6 or 7 in and outs (I had to do this to tune my gasport correctly) , I placed a fine steel filament (from a steel brush) to make them very tight.. Now, even the frontsight is rock solid. it get a taper reamer, hit the holes and add taper pins, do it right. that filiment will fall out |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 1:35:13 PM EDT
[#20]
I eventually will...
but I dont have this tool right now... anyway, these filaments have as much chances of getting out than me to sleep with Charlize theron.. i whish you are right, of course..
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Posted: 9/17/2009 1:37:09 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Tighten and untighten a few times. It should be able to move over then. |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 2:32:53 PM EDT
[#22]
Brownells makes a lapping tool that should help if the nut is too tight. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20220/Product/AR_15_M16_UPPER_RECEIVER_LAPPING_TOOL |
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