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Posted: 11/27/2006 12:33:20 PM EDT
the barrel nut on my CMT (stag) upper IS NOT BUDGING.
is this common? I PHYSICALLY cant produce enough force with my muscles to get it off. weird. I already had to jack with the stag backwards taper pins. is it possible that this thing is permanent? should I cut it off? |
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a buddy and I used a rubber mallet on the end of our wrench when busting loose his DPMS upper for the first time.
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its chillin now. we will see if this works. |
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I have one like this....
Freezing it, soaking in Kroil, etc. Damn thing will not move. I'm starting to suspect that someone used Loctite as an anti-seize... |
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Barrel? I used an action block. Placed upper in block barrel nut came off. It's a tight fit.
Is this what you're talking about? |
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I have used a 3 foot section of three inch steel pipe that slipped over my barrel wrench, then just work it slowly.
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It has worked twice for me, but if it was loctited you may have to use a heat gun to melt the bond of the thread locker. I hope it works out for you either way. A cheater bar and a friend is a good idea too, one of you holds the wrench on the nut, as the other slowly starts to pull / push on the end of the bar. |
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didnt work. does stag put loctite on theri barrel nuts?? It just wont budge. Im mad. |
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I have ripped 3/4" plywood that my vise was bolted to while pulling off a barrel nut. Some of those are REALLY on there tight. I think the best thing to do is to use two people. One person press down directly onto the wrench to keep it on the barrel nut and prevent slipping, the second person uses a cheater bar and cranks it off.
If heat and cold don't work, your options are looking limited aside from the above. ETA- Your gas tube is out right? |
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thats not exactly encouraging stick.... yeah, my gas tube is out now would prolly be the best time to mentin that I dont have a raciever clamp..... for a while now, I have used a couple old towels, folded over, ontop of an old ammo crate, and some more folded towels on top. I usually have a friend just sit on it. its "stable" but not rock solid. I also dont have a vice, or Id be done already. (and have a reciever clamp) Im gonna give it a few more tries, and then Im getting out the dremel. |
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Dude, buy a vise and receiver clamshell. How do you plan to reinstall everything without the proper tools?
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I would, but I have nothing to put the vice on. |
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Thats the problem you need a vice and the receiver vice blocks or its not gonna move.If you vice it and it still wont budge sometimes not using the grease on the receiver threads can cause it to seize up.When taking off and putting on barrels you need to use the right tools.Other tasks you can improvise but not with barrels.
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Just bolt the vise to a length of 2"x8" and stand on it when loosening or tightening the nut. BTW: My Stag had no locktite but it also was a PITA, with the clamp and vise. |
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Remember foot pounds of presure can be from 30 to 80 pounds it varies thats why a receiver block and vice are crucial..dont mickey mouse it.If you were putting on a barrel you may be able to do it with out a block and vise...but wrenching off a factory tourqed barrel..do it right.
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Get the proper clamp and buy a can of "canned air" which is really carbon dioxide. It is used to blow off electronic boards and equipment. Flip the can upside down and spray down the threads and really well, it will be COLD!!!! Immediately try to take off the nut, if that fails, heat the nut up with a heat gun CAREFULLY, and useing a candle with a good percentage of beeswax melt some of the candle into the threads, try to loosen it up as it cools. It should break loose with one of those two methods. Don't ask me why the candle bit works, but I have broken loose very rusty undercarriage threads on cars and trucks that resisted every other penetrant known to man with it.
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fair enough.
whats a good clamshell (price effective, since Id like to buy grocerys this month) |
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They run about $35 to $40..got mine from Bushmaster but I think DPMS sells one that has the upper insert although ive never bent an upper.
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My way is kind of ghetto...but it works none the less.
I cut 2 pieces of 1" thick wood. I put 1 piece on the side that mounds up to the lower (cut to fit in-between the lugs), and the other goes on the flat top. I put it in the vice and cinch it down. The upper will be sideways in the vice, but it still allows you to torque the barrel none the less. So far it has held very good, doesn't marr the finish and was free. Of course this only works if you have an A3 style. YMMV ETA: spelling |
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as it turns out, yeah, it is. it DOES NOT want to come out. Ill see if a dealer in houston has a reciever clamshell, so Ican get this fixed. my buddy has a vice. |
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DO IT!! There is nothing like learning on your own stuff. Sure, you will tear it up, but you have learned that no matter the lack of equipment, the job can be done. Why do you think they put all those little holes on the barrel nut? so when you break some of them off, you still have many many more to engage the wrench into. Go for it i say!! KyAKGuy |
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I'm sorry to hear that, but don't worry too much -- lots of people do. Just do your best to help him break it. If it's serious you may need help, and there are lots of organizations with experience -- AA, Gamblers Anonymous, etc. Maybe the group most badly needed by members here is a 12-Step organization to help break the Black Rifle Addiction (Black Riflemen Anonymous - BRA?) . Anyway, good luck. |
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I suggets a vise, a barrel clamp and a 2 foot breaker-bar.
Hotgun |
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i had a similar problem with a Colt upper.
Heat didn't work Kroil/CLP soaking for days didn't work Freezer didn't work It took a combination of a 2ft breaker bar, freezing the barrel nut with freon, and what stick suggested (one person holding the wrench on the nut so it doesn't slip, and the other slowly pulling down on the breaker bar)... it popped off... |
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Ohh hell no, you mean to tell us this is a barrel you have for sale or trade? HotOlds442...save your money, look elsewhere! |
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Yeah, because I am sure he dicked up the barrel He might need a new barrel nut at the most...a $20 part. |
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You're not helping the OP with his question and I'm sure the buyer doesn't need your help. Anyway, my bushmaster action block is coming tomorrow and I will be torquing a barrel. I'll let you know about the quality. I highly suggest getting a vise and an action block if you plan on doing more. I took off a factory installed barrel using only 2 sheets of plywood on either side and the reciever cracked right under the ejection port from the torque it took to remove the damn thing. That is why I suggest an action block. |
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So he can smear aluminum all around the barrel while it spins in the vise? Go with the receiver block. If you were closer I'd let you use mine. Check in the HTF and see if somebody in the HouCrew can help you out. |
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Look out little brother, the thread police have arrived! Since he's just trying to keep a deal from going south, I see no problem with him adding his 2 cents, especially since it has merit. I sure don't feel like trading a brand new barrel for one that had become trashed due to the use of improper tools. I even went to a lot of effort to remove my FSB because the OP didn't want to send his, he said it had damage and that I wouldn't want it - now I know why. Not once did he ever notify me that he was having a problem removing the barrel, I could have removed it for him and installed the new one too and it would have eliminated a lot of problems on both ends. I had to find the thread purely by accident. |
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With a vice, action block, proper wrench, and cheater bar, some barrel nuts can take over 200ft lbs to break. Some still won't come loose. Freeze for at least 4 hours and then immediately heat the barrel nut with a propane torch and then try it. Some will still not come loose even when your action block is starting to smoke, but you can send it to Adco and they will magically get it loose. I have been around the block a few times on this............................
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I know I, for one, will be sure to stay away from anything for sale in the E/E by the OP.
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I offered to drive from Houston to his place, bring my Bushie action block, and a vise and bolts if he'd provide the wood to bolt it to. I suspect that he might not want to sell the barrel.
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As far as someone not liking my .02 cents, who cares.
I posted what is important to me. I am not concerned with helping the OP. Yoou have missed the point of my post. I don't think it is important to help the OP when he is trying to sell/trade an item (knowingly damaged) with a family member of mine! The OP should have notified my brother there was an issue with this before he had to find a post about it on the message board! What ever came of this transaction anyway? |
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I never said it was damaged. the barrel is fine. I took it to a friends house who has all the right tools. just because I didnt have the right tools to do a job doesnt make the part damaged. I realized I couldnt do it, and took it to a profesinal. and to the guy who was going to drive up from houston, thank you. I appreciated the offer, but I didnt have a secure way to mount the vice. |
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I will put that in the "good to know" category. |
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