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Posted: 11/12/2005 1:39:28 PM EDT
[#1]
It should be counter-clockwise to loosen it (looking at it from the rear.) |
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Posted: 11/12/2005 1:44:30 PM EDT
[#2]
Dremel it.
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Posted: 11/12/2005 1:47:50 PM EDT
[#3]
get a better wrench
looking from the rear it goes counter-clockwise, lefty loosey- righty tighty |
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Posted: 11/12/2005 1:51:05 PM EDT
[#4]
I've got 2 different wrenches, one that uses 3 points and one that uses 1 but I can't get it to budge lefty-loosy yet....
- rem |
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Posted: 11/12/2005 2:02:19 PM EDT
[#5]
You need a special kind of greese... its called elbow grease
 !Remove the upper from the lower. Put the lower receiver down with the safety facing up. Use the wrench that locks in to three places. Hold the notches in the cut outs with your support hand. With your strong hand, push down on the wrench, lean in to it if you have to. The pistiol grip will keep the reciever from moving much. Be careful though, if you slip with the wrench, you will bust a knuckle! |
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Posted: 11/12/2005 2:04:00 PM EDT
[#6]
if you can get the lower in a vise either with the block or some rags use a punch on the flats and drive it in the direction you need to go.
it might have loctite on it or probably staked. |
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Posted: 11/12/2005 2:07:51 PM EDT
[#7]
This is the method I use as well. I have even removed staked extensions easily this way. |
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Posted: 11/12/2005 3:50:09 PM EDT
[#8]
apply heat. I use a MAPP gas torch.
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Posted: 12/30/2005 6:40:49 PM EDT
[#9]
I'm having the same problem with my Bushmaster. So far I have destroyed two RRA spanner (3 prong) wrenches. The prongs give before the castle nut does. I've used a heat gun along with the wrench and all I'm doing is shredding the threads on my stock. Yes, I'm turning it the correct way. My other Bushmaster was a piece of cake compared to this one. Any suggestions???
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Posted: 12/30/2005 7:29:10 PM EDT
[#10]
I broke my spanner wrench last night trying to do the same thing! I ordered three different types of spanner wrenches today from Brownell's! Looks like the Rock River Arms wrench is probably the best one out there.. Made from steel, not crappy pot metal.
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Posted: 12/30/2005 11:13:49 PM EDT
[#11]
I use a DPMS Multi-Tool, pretty heavy duty. I lay the receiver flat with the upper off as explained earlier but I take a hammer, while applying pressure with one hand to the middle of the wrench, and give a good smack to the end of the wrench. The energy / shock from the blow will break the nut free most of the time.
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Posted: 12/31/2005 12:38:26 AM EDT
[#12]
+1 
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Posted: 12/31/2005 3:15:09 AM EDT
[#13]
This is the reason i dont use Loctite on or stake the ext tube threads,never needed it yet!
 I like to keep mine where i can change things around. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 3:56:02 AM EDT
[#14]
Well lets see, the last two BM's have been really tough. The first one I ended up cutting off, even after using heat. The second one, I managed to break it loose with a punch, and then I could finish up with my wrench. Both of these were straight from the factory, and both of them had something in the threads.
Weazer |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 4:08:51 AM EDT
[#15]
Is Bushmaster using Loc-Tite on the threads of the tube??? That would suck! |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 4:08:53 AM EDT
[#16]
Damn them!
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Posted: 12/31/2005 4:37:43 AM EDT
[#17]
no kidding, I used loctite on a tube I used for a Ruger 10/22 - the reciever extension was torn off with the adapter from the stoack and the stock broke in two---Maybe I'll go for a M1 carbine look with the 10/22  , using the factory stock I only managed to save the actual buttstock
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Posted: 12/31/2005 3:11:19 PM EDT
[#18]
I STILL need to know how to get this thing off. Anyone??? If I don't, I'll have to sell my ASP sling and DD ambi...
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Posted: 12/31/2005 3:14:09 PM EDT
[#19]
Cut the nut on opposites sides with a Dremel. Get a new tube and nut and start over. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 3:17:43 PM EDT
[#20]
Channel locks and adjustable pliers work fine for me
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Posted: 12/31/2005 3:27:56 PM EDT
[#21]
I was wondering that, too. I had a factory postban Bushy M4 (with permanently extended stock), and when I was trying to take it off after the AWB ended, it took me like 10 mins to get it off! My wrench must've slipped at least 7 or 8 times, and I jacked up the threads on the old fixed telestock. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 6:27:35 PM EDT
[#22]
I may have to do that. Where can I get a new tube and nut? |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 6:30:00 PM EDT
[#23]
Get an Vltor or a CMT tube and castle nut from one of the vendors on the board. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 6:32:36 PM EDT
[#24]
You could also use the simple Portamong tool, which doesn't have the hassle of electrical cords. It will do the job in about 1 to 2 seconds. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 6:32:37 PM EDT
[#25]
I saw this in Iraq as well. We were issued Bushmaster shorties. Guys who want to put Vltor stocks on their weapons and/or the one point sling plates were having a bitch of a time getting the castle nuts off.
I had no such issue with my pre-ban Bushmaster back in the States. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 6:38:36 PM EDT
[#26]
My preban Bushmaster was no problem at all. I'm going to cut the damn thing off with my dremel. So what vendors have the parts I need? And how difficult is it to replace the tube?
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Posted: 12/31/2005 6:45:41 PM EDT
[#27]
Why would you have to replace the tube? Just cut the ring off; Don't Dremel all the way through it and into the tube. In fact, in my photo I only cut a groove into the ring, then stuck a big screwdriver in the groove and twisted. POP! The ring snaps. How much is a new ring... 100Kc? (3 to 5 US Dollars?)
If you use a Portamong, you don't even have to replace the ring! |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 6:47:10 PM EDT
[#28]
Go here and order an Vltor tube and an RRA castle nut. Just unscew the old tube and screw on the new one. Make sure you pull the end plate all the way back so as not to damage the spring for the takedown pin detent. Also, make sure the buffer retainer and spring don't come flying out when you unscrew the tube. Edited to add: If you change to a mil-spec tube (the Bushy is not), you'll have to get a new stock. If you don't want to go this route, order new parts from Bushmaster. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 6:48:44 PM EDT
[#29]
Because I trashed the threads using the RRA wrench. It looks like shit now. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 6:54:02 PM EDT
[#30]
I have an extra castle nut at work I can send you. I might have an extra Vltor tube too, but I won't be back to work until next year.
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Posted: 12/31/2005 6:56:16 PM EDT
[#31]
That would be great! Will it work with my BM stock though? Maybe I could trade you something for the parts. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 7:13:02 PM EDT
[#32]
Here are some links to vendors right here on the boards that have complete stock kits cheap. Can't go wrong for these prices.
ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=125&t=288199 $37.00 complete ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=125&t=289311 $62.00 complete ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=125&t=316887 $57.00 complete I checked and all I can help you with is a new castle nut. I have a few extras new in the parts box. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 7:16:19 PM EDT
[#33]
No, sorry. Maybe its time to dump your Bushy stock and get a whole Vltor package! |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 7:18:15 PM EDT
[#34]
If anyone is nice enough to send me a castle nut I could probably use my old tube and paint over the scratches...
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Posted: 12/31/2005 7:21:19 PM EDT
[#35]
Send me an IM with your address. I will get one in the mail Monday (if the PO is working) or Tuesday if not. |
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Posted: 12/31/2005 7:27:10 PM EDT
[#36]
IM sent. - Thanks!
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Posted: 12/31/2005 8:18:17 PM EDT
[#37]
Bushmaster had put red loc-tite on both of my stocks, complete bitch to get those to come off. They also had blue loc-tite on the hand grip. I guess it beats having them fall apart but makes upgrades a bitch haha. |
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Posted: 1/1/2006 1:42:39 PM EDT
[#38]
After I broke my first wrench I ended up taking a large brass punch and tapping it loose. Of course it slipped once and I put a "dink" in one of the threads
img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/JeffCsr/51d1f4cf.jpg |
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Posted: 1/1/2006 2:19:32 PM EDT
[#39]
Well, if we're gonna post our "well-there-goes-that-tube" pictures, here's mine:
  Edit - Yeah, that totally needed to be resized, sorry!!
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