I was looking at putting a Surefire M73 rail on my 6920 , but if all im going to attach is a light is it needed . I have seen some pictures of a small piccatiny rail that attaches to the base of the front site , that will hold a light . Obviously there is a price difference , what are the advantages of a full rail ? Is it needed . Thanks !

Mostly it's a matter of flexibility.  You may decide later you want to strap on some extras.

I don't like more rail than you need.

Here's what I did on a couple guns - replace the bottom handguard with a Fobus .   1 kit did 2 guns

Quoted: I was looking at putting a Surefire M73 rail on my 6920 , but if all im going to attach is a light is it needed . I have seen some pictures of a small piccatiny rail that attaches to the base of the front site , that will hold a light . Obviously there is a price difference , what are the advantages of a full rail ? Is it needed . Thanks !

If you're just going to mount a light, the rails on the front sight base (FSB) or just the lower part of the handguard cost and weighs less than a full rail.

The full rails also weighs more. On the other hand, If you're going to add a vertical grip, laser, etc., it's OK to get a full rail.

I have a full rail and small rails on my FSB. I'm using my handguard rails for my light and vertical grip. I'll be mounting my laser or back-up light on my FSB.

I got the FSB rails so my handguard won't be too crowded when I grip the handguard. Another way is to get longer full rails, instead of getting a standard 7-inch rails, get a 9-inch or even more instead.

My rig's pic link

Thanks gang .

IMHO - Eventually you will want to mount something else...bipod, VFG, laser, or put your light in a different position.  You may as well go ahead and get the rails.  

 I have a surefire RIS, and I really prefer the extra weight and width it gives.  Right now, I don't have anything mounted on it, but it is nice to have the option.  Sometimes the hex screws come loose after a few hundred rounds or so, though.  Not good, but I live with it.  Perhaps some locking fluid that will break free when you turn the screw?

Quoted: Sometimes the hex screws come loose after a few hundred rounds or so, though.  Not good, but I live with it.  Perhaps some locking fluid that will break free when you turn the screw?

Try blue Loctite, they're great for locking the screws but could be removed without using heat.

Loctite website link

Quoted: Quoted: Sometimes the hex screws come loose after a few hundred rounds or so, though.  Not good, but I live with it.  Perhaps some locking fluid that will break free when you turn the screw? Try blue Loctite, they're great for locking the screws but could be removed without using heat. Loctite website link

 Great, and thanks.

Quoted: I was looking at putting a Surefire M73 rail on my 6920 , but if all im going to attach is a light is it needed . I have seen some pictures of a small piccatiny rail that attaches to the base of the front site , that will hold a light . Obviously there is a price difference , what are the advantages of a full rail ? Is it needed . Thanks !

The small picatiny work great, and look into the Insight M3X light - it's compact, lightweight and very bright (125 Lumens).  

Why a rail?  That's a very good question.  The reason I have a rail on is to mount a light, mount a vertical grip, and free float the barrel for better accuracy.  (Some people may say they don't "need" the extra accuracy of free floated barrel in an AR, that's cool.  Personally, I like all the accuracy I can get, especially when there zero impact on reliability.  There are so many free floating rail systems available, I can't think of a reason why I would buy a rail system that didn't free float.)

You can be put on Picatiny rails on stock handguards for both the light and vertical grip, but they don't free float the barrel.  

Of the rail systems, I like the GG&G the best.  It gives many more mounting options than other systems, yet is relatively light and compact.  And it free floats the barrel for better accuracy.  

eland



If you are going to buy a rail system, get one that free floats the barrel.  

I started out with just plain jane CAR plastic handguard.  I added GGG-UFIRail for mounting a SF 6P (using cheap scope mount).  Later I added a YHM offset riser to oblique the light and installed a vertical fore grip.  Usually the handguard does twist when you put pressure on the VFG.

Later on, I became disatisfied with my light set-up that I bought a single-point picatinny rail and installed it at 1-2o'clock of the handguard as well as a tape switch to simulate a cheap SFM500 HG.  However, I find that the light when installed, points downward due to the contour of the handguard (of being not straight).

Just last month, my budget for extra goodies was more accomodating.  After researching to improve my setup -- I ordered a DD 7.0.  It weighs similar to the current plastic CAR HG + Delta Ring + Barrel Nut, and is more robust that what I started. Satisfaction does come with extra cost.