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Quoted: Worse, it's a sprinkler head. View Quote Ahhhh...now I see it. No wonder you were having wet spots. Was it running all the time? Or just when the system came on for that zone? It's kind of crazy, the stupid I see when I'm out working in landscapes. Never saw that level of "just don't care" except for once. I will post about that here when I can get the time to do it. |
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Better bump this.
got some new software for design. Trying to learn to use it to render better than my hand drawings. Sorry for the delay, y'all. |
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I'm not sure if this has been addressed but I'd like recommendations for the best shrub to plant along the tree line to serve as a visual border between grass and woods. Currently the lines are filled with a multitude of weeds and it is not attractive.
I'm thinking azaleas might be a good fit. I would like something that is relatively quick to fill in, can prune to a max height of 4-5 feet, and flowering. Most of the woodline gets sun in the mornings, then shaded in the afternoon, only 40 feet or so will be north facing. Something inexpensive would be a bonus, I'll have to order from a wholesale nursery as I will need 250+ feet. |
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I guess I will fire my question here. I have several low spots in my yard and then a few areas I would like to move some dirt for better drainage. It will require more dirt than I have but in the mean time I can fix probably 75% of my issues with the dirt I am going to move.
Basic question would be time of year to do this and be able to grow grass and not have mud holes in the yard for an extended amount of time. I live in the southeast (USDA plant hardiness zone 8a) and normal grass around here seems to be a mix of fescue and maybe some KY blue grass in shaded areas. I like KY blue grass better but a twister took down the large tree in my front yard this past spring so the shade is non-existent. As a side note all I have is a box blade and never used it before...... I might need some time to fix my screw ups.... |
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Quoted: I'm not sure if this has been addressed but I'd like recommendations for the best shrub to plant along the tree line to serve as a visual border between grass and woods. Currently the lines are filled with a multitude of weeds and it is not attractive. I'm thinking azaleas might be a good fit. I would like something that is relatively quick to fill in, can prune to a max height of 4-5 feet, and flowering. Most of the woodline gets sun in the mornings, then shaded in the afternoon, only 40 feet or so will be north facing. Something inexpensive would be a bonus, I'll have to order from a wholesale nursery as I will need 250+ feet. View Quote So...will there be any line of cleared land between the shrubs and the forest? This is hard row to hoe for any shrub, because it's going to be largely shaded (The forest will encroach) on one side, but it will take some sun on the other side, which means it will never be a fully formed, full, thick shrub. You've stated the sun/shade ratio in your question. But you also say that some of it is facing north, which means there will likely be NO full sun on that portion, right? So...some thoughts and questions... 1-Are you determined to have the same plant for the entire hedge? 2-Azalea or Rhododendron (if it will grow there) might indeed be a good fit, but you are going to need to keep the woods from taking it over. So you need a plan for that...maybe a mowing strip that you mow each time you mow your yard, between the shrubs and the woods. You need to understand that you are never going to get any significant blooms from this hedge. There is not enough light for that. 3-So here's a question. WHY do you want this? Do you not like the look of the woods? Are you just wanting blooms there for the two weeks you will have them? Or what? No judgement in this question at all. I'm just wanting to understand more about what you're after by planting this hedge/barrier. A lot depends on your "why" answer...why do you want this hedge. That will change the suggestion I might make. So I need to know what's useful for you. |
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I want a more defined border between where the grass (green in the yard that’s mostly clover and weeds) is full and where it peeters out in patches heading into the tree line. Also if I can fill a solidish hedge line at 4’ tall I can completely obscure the woods and the deadfall and all from the house. It will provide a more finished look.
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Quoted: I guess I will fire my question here. I have several low spots in my yard and then a few areas I would like to move some dirt for better drainage. It will require more dirt than I have but in the mean time I can fix probably 75% of my issues with the dirt I am going to move. Basic question would be time of year to do this and be able to grow grass and not have mud holes in the yard for an extended amount of time. I live in the southeast (USDA plant hardiness zone 8a) and normal grass around here seems to be a mix of fescue and maybe some KY blue grass in shaded areas. I like KY blue grass better but a twister took down the large tree in my front yard this past spring so the shade is non-existent. As a side note all I have is a box blade and never used it before...... I might need some time to fix my screw ups.... View Quote Okay, welcome @Scoobysmak ! So to even address your issues, I'm going to need to know more. First...Bluegrass needs SUN. Not shade. So your tree being gone is TERRIBLE because you don't have shade..but for any normal turfgrass specie, that's a good thing. Second...you're pretty far south for bluegrass I'm thinking. You mentioned fescue and bluegrass, but as far south as you are, most lawns in your area are probably fescue or bermuda, right? Maybe I'm dead wrong, so...If you will tell what region you live in (nearest city, or which regions of which state or something) that will help a lot. THIRD:... Once I understand the region you're in, and the grass types, I can help a little more, but...YOU ARE APPROACHING YOUR SEEDING TIME. If you're going to seed turf-type tall fescue or bluegrass, you've got probably a month or so to get ready. I'm in southern KY. An hour north of Nashville. I will need to seed by the end of September. And I'm in zone 6. So you've got a little more time, but I have no idea how much, cuz I don't know where you are. Seeding rules: 1-Buy the best seed you can afford. If you're only spot seeding areas where you will be digging, and you really don't care about the quality of your lawn, then buy seed at the big box stores or somewhere local. If you actually care and want to have an awesome lawn at some point, buy better seed. There are a LOT of reasons to buy better seed. But if you don't really care, I won't type those out. 2-Don't use straw to cover the seed unless you don't care that there are weeds in your lawn. Some of those weeds that come in with straw are spawn from hell. They are alpha weeds like Johnsongrass. Weeds you cannot kill with any herbicide that does not kill your lawn. If it's Johnsongrass, it may be Roundup Ready Johnsongrass, which you cannot kill with glyphosate (Roundup). The weeds that come in with straw are high-level demon weeds. I would avoid straw at all costs. SO..... If you actually care about the lawn, cover the seed with peat moss. You can buy it in bales at Lowes or Home Depot for about $8 a bale. A bale goes a good long way. You can also use Scott's Patch Master, but that's more expensive. It's wonderful. But you may not want to pay for it. You don't have to cover every square inch with this. It expands as you add water, to cover and protect the seed. 3-You are going to have to water, so be prepared to set up a sprinkler of some kind to water your seeds EVERY DAY. Not "Oh I forgot" for two days. EVERY DAY. Those seeds, without water, are throwing money into a hole and never seeing them again. Not meaning to be the voice of doom, but this is not a set it and forget it thing. Seeds need water to germinate and grow into plants large enough to actually root and survive. 4-You need a starter fertilizer. This is something that includes phosphorus. Every store that sells fert will have a "starter fert" on the shelf. It'll be something lower in Nitrogen (the first number on the bag) and it will be higher in phosphorus (the middle number on the bag.) So if you don't understand this... 10-10-10 That's equal parts NItrogen, PHosophorus, and Potassium. 10-15-20 the 10 is Nitrogen (first number on the bag) The 15 is Phosophorus (second number on the bag) The 20 is potassium. (Third number on the bag) You want something like a 5-10-5 Or a VERY common one is 18-24-12. See the middle number is higher? That's what you want. If you go and buy a bag of Scott's starter fert, you will be rockin it. Spread that over your new grass either at the time of seeding OR (especially if it's bluegrass) a little later. Bluegrass takes about 21 days to germinate. It's a pita. If it's fescue, that's 8-10 days. So about a week to 10 days after you seed, spread the starter fert. GEt one of those little hand spreaders with the crank handle. Set it on whatever the bag recommends. Don't just dump it out there. Get it right. 5-Water. Yes, I know this was number 3. But it's also number 5 because you can't blow this part off. You have to water EVERY DAY from the day you seed until that seed is two weeks old. So with bluegrass, you're looking at almost five weeks. Six is better. Get a sprinkler that covers the whole area. Get a timer. Set it and forget it. BUT....check and make sure it's actually working. Okay does that help? Ask questions. Tell me where you actually ARE, and I can help you more. |
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Quoted: I want a more defined border between where the grass (green in the yard that’s mostly clover and weeds) is full and where it peeters out in patches heading into the tree line. Also if I can fill a solidish hedge line at 4’ tall I can completely obscure the woods and the deadfall and all from the house. It will provide a more finished look. View Quote Okay...so I'm getting that from your home, you are looking at the woods, and the tree tops are okay, even in the winter when they lose leaves, but what you DON'T like is the view of the deep dark expansive hole at the bottom of the trees...that vast chasm of nothingness that is the ground in the woods, which kind of feels like an endless portal into emptyness when you look into it.. Is that right? You want to have a barrier between you and that? (I might have had wine, and might be a little dramatic....) ETA: @Billith777 how much distance do you have between the house and the treeline? |
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@billith777
Look at this link. Spend some time with it. Look at the heights, and for practical purposes, assume the azalea will hit about the middle of whatever they say is the range. Look at the water requirements. (No azalea likes to have wet feet all the time, so if the soil in the area we are talking about does not drain, take that into consideration.) Give each of these more than a glance. READ them. Read what they say the requirements are. Then we can talk about what might be right for you. I have a hunch that one of these PLUS something else will be your perfect solution. 13 types of azalea |
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Nearest city of size is Chattanooga TN.
I have not seen berumda since I left FL but admit I hate that stuff, might be in the area but I will avoid it in my yard. I would love to have a nice green soft lawn so not sure the best choice for my location but think most go with a fescue of some sort or a mix. I am at the base of a hill so all the runoff during a rain storm starts to gather on my property but I still have a 20-25ft drop over a 200ft run. I am going to try and redirect the water that is heading straight towards the foundation of my home..... This is the reason for me to start tearing up the yard but figured I would be better off doing it during a planting season so it might grow. Overall my yard is terrible. I probably have 50% grass and 50% weeds at this point. The other parts of the yard are where my shed was and the root ball of the tree that fell left a huge dirt spot. Eventually I would love to plant a type of evergreen tree (s) to set up a fence between me and my neighbors. I hope they would grow to around 6-8 ft tall and around a 5 ft diameter and plant a long row of them (probably around 150 ft). There was one that turned yellow in the winter that I like but think it had some quirk that it either might have a hard time growing or bugs usually take them out. On the last note I prefer stuff that is easy to take care of. I have some health issues and my body has a hard time controlling my body temperature in extreme heat and 85% of people get skin cancer within ten years after the surgery I had..... I just made a year back in May. |
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Quoted: Nearest city of size is Chattanooga TN. I have not seen berumda since I left FL but admit I hate that stuff, might be in the area but I will avoid it in my yard. I would love to have a nice green soft lawn so not sure the best choice for my location but think most go with a fescue of some sort or a mix. I am at the base of a hill so all the runoff during a rain storm starts to gather on my property but I still have a 20-25ft drop over a 200ft run. I am going to try and redirect the water that is heading straight towards the foundation of my home..... This is the reason for me to start tearing up the yard but figured I would be better off doing it during a planting season so it might grow. Overall my yard is terrible. I probably have 50% grass and 50% weeds at this point. The other parts of the yard are where my shed was and the root ball of the tree that fell left a huge dirt spot. Eventually I would love to plant a type of evergreen tree (s) to set up a fence between me and my neighbors. I hope they would grow to around 6-8 ft tall and around a 5 ft diameter and plant a long row of them (probably around 150 ft). There was one that turned yellow in the winter that I like but think it had some quirk that it either might have a hard time growing or bugs usually take them out. On the last note I prefer stuff that is easy to take care of. I have some health issues and my body has a hard time controlling my body temperature in extreme heat and 85% of people get skin cancer within ten years after the surgery I had..... I just made a year back in May. View Quote Congratulations on your year!!!! Okay so we need to make your lawn as low maintenance in summer as possible, right? We can do that. I recommend Emerald Green Arborvitae and/or Leyland Cypress for the border between you and your neighbors. This recommendation comes without ever seeing your property, so there is a lot I do not know. I you want to post pics, I will be of more help, I love love LOVE the Chattanooga area, so it will do my heart good to help if I can. If I did not live here, I would want to live where you live. So do not go bluegrass. Go fescue. It will struggle in your heat, but bluegrass will check out completely in the summer, I'm guessing. FIRST...get your yard graded so the water does not run toward your home. If you want to send me pics in the IM rather than post them on the forum, that's okay. I will help that way too. First...grading.. Second...plant trees/privacy barrier Third...seed grass. You have a lot to do. |
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Quoted: @billith777 Look at this link. Then we can talk about what might be right for you. I have a hunch that one of these PLUS something else will be your perfect solution. 13 types of azalea View Quote 3. Sweet Azalea - Looks to be right size. Would do well in 70% of where I want them to go IE full sun to partial shade. It wants moist soil though,we can get dry hot spells in this part of the state. 4. Florida Flame Azalea - same as above but looks like it might tolerate more shade. 7. Roseshell Azalea - looks to be a good fit but "very cold hardy" might not enjoy 95* and dry for 6 weeks. 8. Royal Azalea - same as #7 9. Plumleaf Azalea - Might be a winner.... 11. Pink-Shell Azalea - Might be a winner... I guess the next big step is calling local nurseries and seeing what they recommend and what I can get in bulk at a good price. Here is a sample of the woodline I want to fill in. Ignore the grass we're still recovering from when they cut the hill to clear the land. Overseeding is happening in a month. This is roughly 50-60 feet across and I'm standing about 40-50 feet away. The camera is looking due west. |
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Good Morning Kitties,
I remember you talking about a liquid aeration product and one of your clients had you use it on a hill that stayed sloppy wet for long periods. I have the same issue with my backyard. I have a fairly steep hill that just will NOT dry out after a rain. It stays soggy and squishy and if you run much more than a riding lawn mower over it, the "grass" (our weed mixture that stands in for grass! ) just gets torn right off. The hill is about 40ish feet wide and maybe 80-100 feet long but I would likely need to treat most of the back yard as it all stays wetter than I would like due to the HEAVY NC clay we have here! Do you think the same product will work for me? Also is it possible to apply it as a homeowner? I don't have more than a handheld 2 gallon sprayer although I *might* know someone I could borrow a larger (10 or 20) gallon tow behind tank from but it still just has a hand wand. Or should I just hire this job out? Should I mechanically aerate first to increase the penetration of the product? I have a cheesy slit aerator but the price was right! I appreciate any and all advice. |
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Quoted: Good Morning Kitties, I remember you talking about a liquid aeration product and one of your clients had you use it on a hill that stayed sloppy wet for long periods. I have the same issue with my backyard. I have a fairly steep hill that just will NOT dry out after a rain. It stays soggy and squishy and if you run much more than a riding lawn mower over it, the "grass" (our weed mixture that stands in for grass! ) just gets torn right off. The hill is about 40ish feet wide and maybe 80-100 feet long but I would likely need to treat most of the back yard as it all stays wetter than I would like due to the HEAVY NC clay we have here! Do you think the same product will work for me? Also is it possible to apply it as a homeowner? I don't have more than a handheld 2 gallon sprayer although I *might* know someone I could borrow a larger (10 or 20) gallon tow behind tank from but it still just has a hand wand. Or should I just hire this job out? Should I mechanically aerate first to increase the penetration of the product? I have a cheesy slit aerator but the price was right! I appreciate any and all advice. View Quote Mechanical aeration is good but I would not pay for that at this point, and because your hillside is fragile I would not run the slit seeder over it. HOWEVER...you need a backpack sprayer. I would get the Field King Professional, or the Field King Max (either is $70-80) and it will serve you for many, many seasons and purposes if you maintain it. You can get it on amazon. Yes you can get the liquid aeration, and although I have not seen your site, I would at least attempt that first. You can get Air8 from Greene County Fertilizer. They have TWO distributors for homeowners. I know both of the distributors and they are both awesome people, so choose whichever one works for you. Allyn Hayne the Lawn Care Nut, or Pete at GCI Turf. Both are linked here: Greene County Fert Products for Homeowners So get some Air8. Read the label. Put it in your backpack sprayer at the highest label rate, and spray your lawn. Then wait three weeks, and spray it again. If you don't have vegetation covering your lawn completely, you are going to need to seed with something. Make sure you do that. Tell me more. Ask questions. I will help if I can. You can do this. |
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Bumping.
Think since I have been AWOL, I should post a few of the projects that have kept me away. Can't post many because I don't have the permission of the clients. But I will blurr out the location and post what I can. Gotta upload pics... |
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@Greengiant
Did you have any success with your wet hillside? |
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Hi Kitties,
I have been........how do you say.........SLACK and I have not done it yet. Should I just wait until spring now or can I still do it while it is sort of chilly here? My part of NC doesn't usually get "real" winter though it *might* snow a tiny bit during the winter. |
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Quoted: Hi Kitties, I have been........how do you say.........SLACK and I have not done it yet. Should I just wait until spring now or can I still do it while it is sort of chilly here? My part of NC doesn't usually get "real" winter though it *might* snow a tiny bit during the winter. View Quote Don't hide. I've been AWOL the better part of this year for life--some good some suckish--so I'm the one who should be ducking behind the couch. ETA: Fixing my brain fart. I was looking at two posts, and got yours mixed up with bilith's. It is okay to apply the liquid aeration now. In fact, I would do so. I would also plan to do this throughout the spring. BUT...be aware that the thing that will dry out your hill the best....AND hold your soil the best...is a good crop of grasses. So talk to me about what you plan to put there. It does not need to be anything very delicate. |
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Quoted: 3. Sweet Azalea - Looks to be right size. Would do well in 70% of where I want them to go IE full sun to partial shade. It wants moist soil though,we can get dry hot spells in this part of the state. 4. Florida Flame Azalea - same as above but looks like it might tolerate more shade. 7. Roseshell Azalea - looks to be a good fit but "very cold hardy" might not enjoy 95* and dry for 6 weeks. 8. Royal Azalea - same as #7 9. Plumleaf Azalea - Might be a winner.... 11. Pink-Shell Azalea - Might be a winner... I guess the next big step is calling local nurseries and seeing what they recommend and what I can get in bulk at a good price. Here is a sample of the woodline I want to fill in. Ignore the grass we're still recovering from when they cut the hill to clear the land. Overseeding is happening in a month. This is roughly 50-60 feet across and I'm standing about 40-50 feet away. The camera is looking due west. https://i.imgur.com/HpM0yCl.jpeg View Quote @billth777 Did you do anything with this plan for azaleas yet? |
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Quoted: @billth777 Did you do anything with this plan for azaleas yet? View Quote I havent, its gotten pushed because ive decided to pull out the plastic shed and replace with a 14x24 pole barn about 20' behind where that shed is now. Plus now that the leaves are down in the garden i've taken down the fence to expand another 50' up and add in 3 rows of grapes. Then the chicken coop then raised beds, then some shed or awning for the mill........and it never stops. |
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Quoted: I havent, its gotten pushed because ive decided to pull out the plastic shed and replace with a 14x24 pole barn about 20' behind where that shed is now. Plus now that the leaves are down in the garden i've taken down the fence to expand another 50' up and add in 3 rows of grapes. Then the chicken coop then raised beds, then some shed or awning for the mill........and it never stops. View Quote You are so correct. It never stops. I typed a thing, thinking I was typing to GreenGiant, but then realized he was wet hill, you were azaleas. Anyway, here it is, should you need it: It's a good time to plant shrubs if your ground is still workable. One thing about planting shrubs---especially azaleas or boxwoods--if you have heavy clay: Plant those azaleas shallow. I mean don't be afraid to leave half the rootball sticking up above the extisting ground, then get some cheap bagged topsoil (there is some at Home Depot for 1.67 per bag that I've been using that is really good--no big chunks in it) and use that bagged soil to build up around the top of the ball. The reason you want to do this is because even though you are on a hill, sometimes the soil drains and sometimes it doesn't. (Counterintuitive, I know). You don't want azaleas to have wet feet. They are VERY sensitive to that. So it's an old landscaper's trick (though I see it suggested often everywhere) to plant the shrub shallow, and build up around the rootball. Then mulch really well. (since the ball is basically partly exposed, it's very important to not only build up around that ball so all roots are in fact in some type of soil media and then also protect the new planting with mulch. So....pay attention to each hole you dig. Even in mostly good soil you can hit a vein of heavier, denser, wetter soil. Don't sink those azaleas deep. Think "good drainage is key, even on this hill." Ask questions if I've confused you. I actually just did an entire landscape this way. I'll post pics here in a bit if I can get them fixed so house numbers don't show. |
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@Scoobysmak
Have you been able to make progress? Did I answer what you needed? Feel free to poke at the answer and let us know what you need different, or if I didn't make sense. Kitties |
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Quoted: @Scoobysmak Have you been able to make progress? Did I answer what you needed? Feel free to poke at the answer and let us know what you need different, or if I didn't make sense. Kitties View Quote Well I have failed miserably. My tractor had an incident, I will blame it on myself, and was out of commission for a few months. Then I was in an auto accident that totaled out my car (I wasn’t totaled but they did take me to the hospital for precautionary reasons though). Tractor is running again but time has not been my friend. |
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Quoted: Well I have failed miserably. My tractor had an incident, I will blame it on myself, and was out of commission for a few months. Then I was in an auto accident that totaled out my car (I wasn’t totaled but they did take me to the hospital for precautionary reasons though). Tractor is running again but time has not been my friend. View Quote This year has sucked for many of us, with or without Covid interference. No matter. Let us approach the issue of drainage around your home, and your border privacy plantings, when you are able. REally glad you were not hurt in the accident!!!! |
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It is high time I updated this.
We have been snowed in for a bit, and I am trying to figure out my lawn care program for the upcoming season. I will admit, I lost a couple of weeks to a low mental state because of happenings in our country. That is all I will say about that. It is time to start thinking about gardens, planting things, and pruning things. NOW is the time to prune things like hydrangeas (most of them, anyway), in my area. (There are a few varieties of hydrangeas you don't need to prune now, so if in doubt, ask.) Now is the time to cut down your ornamental grasses (if you dont' have snow--if you have snow, cut them down as soon as the snow melts). Now is the time to think about what changes you are going to make to your landscape, and to plan out time to edge your beds, and set aside a few dollars to buy mulch and install it. Edging beds is a whole discussion. Ask if you don't know how. I might talk about that anyway. |
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I have grand plans for my new-old property, but I'm running out of time completing my big drainage project that will hopefully de-swampify the place over time. So for now I'm gonna lay down cardboard over two 4ft x 32ft spots in the back yard to kill the grass, and start the transplant-happy plant seeds indoors to get some extra time, rather than shelter.
Soil here is straight black gumbo garbage clay, not one pebble or spec of organic matter past about 4" down. So the plan is to dump some garden soil on top of it once the grass is dead, after breaking up the hard clay with a fork to start the long, long, long process of making it usable soil. Between the addition/generation of compost and relocation of some of my excavated dirt from the drainage project, I hope to get the beds slightly elevated, so I can get proper borders made for them next year & continue gradually filling them up the rest of the way with good soil (more drainage projects to come in the future will ensure more fill dirt) By this summer my place should be free of ponding from heavy rains (especially near the house), I'll have irrigation access near all my planned garden areas, a late-planted first-year garden conditioning the soil & maybe paying its way somewhat, and about a dozen fruit trees getting started (in addition to however many or few of my three dozen Satsumas survived this frost) By next spring I hope to have low-raised beds of decent soil, compost production, a simple drip irrigation system, row covers, and a focus on actually using the produce rather than getting it to grow, period . Assuming we don't get another 100yr freeze event, most of the stuff I've planted should have overwintered & come back very strong, too. Some of the fruit trees I'm planting are allegedly able to produce in their second year, but I'm doubtful. For now I'm focusing on beans, sweet potatoes, and nightshades (tomatillos, ground cherries, peppers, that sort of thing) because the soil is so godawful, with smelly herbs & flowers interspersed as a pest deterrent. |
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Quoted: I have grand plans for my new-old property, but I'm running out of time completing my big drainage project that will hopefully de-swampify the place over time. So for now I'm gonna lay down cardboard over two 4ft x 32ft spots in the back yard to kill the grass, and start the transplant-happy plant seeds indoors to get some extra time, rather than shelter. Soil here is straight black gumbo garbage clay, not one pebble or spec of organic matter past about 4" down. So the plan is to dump some garden soil on top of it once the grass is dead, after breaking up the hard clay with a fork to start the long, long, long process of making it usable soil. Between the addition/generation of compost and relocation of some of my excavated dirt from the drainage project, I hope to get the beds slightly elevated, so I can get proper borders made for them next year & continue gradually filling them up the rest of the way with good soil (more drainage projects to come in the future will ensure more fill dirt) By this summer my place should be free of ponding from heavy rains (especially near the house), I'll have irrigation access near all my planned garden areas, a late-planted first-year garden conditioning the soil & maybe paying its way somewhat, and about a dozen fruit trees getting started (in addition to however many or few of my three dozen Satsumas survived this frost) By next spring I hope to have low-raised beds of decent soil, compost production, a simple drip irrigation system, row covers, and a focus on actually using the produce rather than getting it to grow, period . Assuming we don't get another 100yr freeze event, most of the stuff I've planted should have overwintered & come back very strong, too. Some of the fruit trees I'm planting are allegedly able to produce in their second year, but I'm doubtful. For now I'm focusing on beans, sweet potatoes, and nightshades (tomatillos, ground cherries, peppers, that sort of thing) because the soil is so godawful, with smelly herbs & flowers interspersed as a pest deterrent. View Quote @ barnbwt You are on the right track elevating your beds. Amending the soil is an awesome plan. BUT...I will say that raised beds DO that. If you break up the clay, then put in raised beds, and grow things in those beds, over time you will improve the soil beneath those beds. OVER. TIME. That can not be emphasized enough. It won't happen next week or this year, but you WILL improve those soils. Especially if you mulch between the raised beds. You will be improving that whole piece of land. |
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Even though all my photos are gone, I am bumping this, in hopes of saving it.
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another bump...
Cuz people seemed interested in this.. Until..you know...all the photos disappeared. |
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Quoted: You are so correct. It never stops. I typed a thing, thinking I was typing to GreenGiant, but then realized he was wet hill, you were azaleas. Anyway, here it is, should you need it: View Quote I've bailed all together on the azaleas. Current plans are for sheep in the future. azalea is toxic. |
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Bumping because pages seem to be getting cut on forums. Lot of work here.
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Quoted: I've bailed all together on the azaleas. Current plans are for sheep in the future. azalea is toxic. View Quote Sheep in Georgia? You could go with nandina. Pretty cheap, grows like a weed in the south. Once it’s established it only needs trimming; you can cut them in half once a year and they will grow right back. |
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I have a poured, concrete retaining wall that is 9' at its highest and slopes down to grade over ~ 40'.
Insurance co. wants me to put up a fence at the top of the wall to keep anyone from falling who is walking on the ground above. I would rather put up some form of bush as a barrier ... it'll look nicer, and, hopefully be less maintenance. Must be deer/wildlife resistant. Would like it to aesthetically pleasing. My land is in north east MO. I'd like holly but am told that isn't deer resistant. Maybe firebush? The primary quality is it must be thick/tough enough to keep people away from the ledge. Thanks |
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As a folllow up to my bush question, attached are 3 pics of the retaining wall.
The left, high end is 8' tall, the middle, where it bends ~20*, is 6 feet tall and the right end is 4' tall. The 8' to 6' run is 16' long and from the 6' to 4' is a 14' run. Thanks |
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As a folllow up to my bush question, attached are 3 pics of the retaining wall.
The left, high end is 8' tall, the middle, where it bends ~20*, is 6 feet tall and the right end is 4' tall. The 8' to 6' run is 16' long and from the 6' to 4' is a 14' run. Thanks Attached File Oh well, the pics are > 5meg so I cannot upload the other 2 |
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Quoted: As a folllow up to my bush question, attached are 3 pics of the retaining wall. The left, high end is 8' tall, the middle, where it bends ~20*, is 6 feet tall and the right end is 4' tall. The 8' to 6' run is 16' long and from the 6' to 4' is a 14' run. Thanks https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/481930/Left_upper_retaining_wall_jpg-2098457.JPG Oh well, the pics are > 5meg so I cannot upload the other 2 View Quote Do you have the option of doing both fence AND plantings? I ask because if you're talking about firethorn, that's quite an undertaking because it's serious business to prune it, or manipulate it in any way. And if there are small children in the picture, even though I believe in letting kids learn about the real world by experiencing it, firethorn is harsh. ETA: If you'd like to email me the pics, I can resize them for you so they will upload more easily. Let me know and we can IM. No pressure. I know that's a security issue for many. |
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Quoted: Do you have the option of doing both fence AND plantings? I ask because if you're talking about firethorn, that's quite an undertaking because it's serious business to prune it, or manipulate it in any way. And if there are small children in the picture, even though I believe in letting kids learn about the real world by experiencing it, firethorn is harsh. ETA: If you'd like to email me the pics, I can resize them for you so they will upload more easily. Let me know and we can IM. No pressure. I know that's a security issue for many. View Quote @Kitties-with-Sigs Thanks Kitties, I sent you an email. There can be an occasional grandchild around. I can do both fence and bush and/or either/or both. What is the best solution? Thanks |
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Kitties,
I have a question related to layout, size, and termination of mulched beds around a patio. House and garage are about the right perspective/ratio. front and back stoop are filled in dark brown. Grass runs up to patio in back. The mulched flower beds fit and flow ok in front, but the termination around the angled rear corner of the patio isn't right, and I'm at a loss as to what to do to improve the look. Any suggestions? Attached File |
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Quoted: Kitties, I have a question related to layout, size, and termination of mulched beds around a patio. House and garage are about the right perspective/ratio. front and back stoop are filled in dark brown. Grass runs up to patio in back. The mulched flower beds fit and flow ok in front, but the termination around the angled rear corner of the patio isn't right, and I'm at a loss as to what to do to improve the look. Any suggestions? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/174877/Flower_Beds_jpg-2116616.JPG View Quote Yes. Give me a bit. I've got to get this image off of here so I can draw on it. So. Not. Techy. @Jchewie1 Is this existing beds, or proposed layout? |
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Apologies to all here. Had a little medical issue that has slowed me down recently.
I will go back and attempt to address the last few questions. |
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Existing, back corner I never finished, can change. Hope you are healing up well.
Thanks! |
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