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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:25:17 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Can someone walk me through, or just give me information about replacing an O2 sensor in my 96 Ford Ranger? The code from the check engine light indicates it's P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2. thanks. Should be pretty straight forward. Unscrew from exhaust, disconnect bad sensor, replace new one in reverse order. It is easy on my car, not sure about the ranger, shouldn't be much different. |
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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:26:17 PM EDT
[#2]
Find out how many O2 sensors you have. Guessing 2.
Google the error code and there will probably be a discussion forum that will give you a clue as to which one it is. It should be an eazy fix. |
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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:26:59 PM EDT
[#3]
Are you SURE its the sensor???
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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:27:38 PM EDT
[#4]
Don't touch the sensor part with your fingers. And lube the threads.
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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:30:03 PM EDT
[#5]
7/8" wrench. Left loose, right tight.
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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:32:47 PM EDT
[#6]
You better hope that sumbitch comes out in one piece.
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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:35:56 PM EDT
[#7]
Price a new sensor from Ford or a good aftermarket sensor. NTK or Nippondenso are good. Stay far away from cheap universal sensors. I have no good results with Bosch O2 sensors. It should be model specific.
If the sensor is not too expensive it would be worth the price to replace it without further diagnosis. Get an O2 sensor socket. I prefer the ones that are twelve point and have a 3/8 drive square hole on them(crowsfoot) If the sensor is too pricey I would have it diagnosed. It will have to be hooked up to a scanner and the O2 sensor pattern checked. Sometimes the heater in the sensor goes bad and it won't warm up properly. |
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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:36:33 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted: Are you SURE its the sensor??? no. Only advice I've seen on forums is check for bad wiring, if okay, replace the sensor. Not sure what else I can do, other than go to the shop and pay a premium for something that probably takes 30 min or less and be charged with hours of work. Story of my life when it comes to cars.  |
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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:41:30 PM EDT
[#9]
That is the rear sensor, behind the catalyst. Only need it for inspection and to make that MIL light extinguish. A 1996? You should just change it out, FoMoCo reset themselves for such a sensor, IIRC. It may take a few cycles.
The best price is online. Oxygensensorsforless or something like that. And you could always go to Autozone etc for a reset once replaced. DO IT COLD, I like to use a box end, IF the connector fits through it. Much safer. Or a deep socket, with the old wires cut. |
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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:43:59 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted: Quoted: Are you SURE its the sensor??? no. Only advice I've seen on forums is check for bad wiring, if okay, replace the sensor. Not sure what else I can do, other than go to the shop and pay a premium for something that probably takes 30 min or less and be charged with hours of work. Story of my life when it comes to cars. You could take it out and probe it with a digital (high impedance) voltmeter. That is probably a 4 wire, you need at least 12 ohms on the heater side, otherwise it will throw a code. On the sensor side, you could check for voltage in a propane flame. But this all means you have to know the pinouts for each wire...and possible ground as some are grounded through the body. |
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Posted: 9/16/2009 3:44:10 PM EDT
[#11]
PITA to remove. Soak it with some wd40 for at least 15 minutes or other light spray lube before removing. If it cracks you will need to drill, weld, tap and or replace the exhaust pipe. Good luck.
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Posted: 9/16/2009 4:17:51 PM EDT
[#12]
I replaced both in my '97 Ranger last week, you're in luck.
The one before that cat is located on the exhaust pipe leading down from the manifold. Unscrew it from the pipe from below, then go above and follow the wires to where the connector is just behind the engine, above the transmission. There are two connectors here - do *not* unhook both. Unhook only the one this one leads to - the other leads to the after-the-cat sensor, but there is another connector down the wire. If you unhook both, you can get them reversed and then you'll be in trouble :) The second sensor is easy to get to, just after the cat. Unscrew it from the pipe, follow the wires, disconnect it at the first connector. To install, reverse :) A couple of things to look for:
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Posted: 9/16/2009 4:19:58 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted: Can someone walk me through, or just give me information about replacing an O2 sensor in my 96 Ford Ranger? The code from the check engine light indicates it's P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2. thanks. No freaking way. My CEL came on in my ranger yesterday. Same code same sensor. Cleared the code and it has stayed off so far. Kepping my fingers crossed. |
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Posted: 9/16/2009 4:31:21 PM EDT
[#14]
You should try cleaning the MAF sensor first. Wife's Windstar kept saying both banks were bad. I fixed it with a $1 can of carb cleaner.
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Posted: 9/16/2009 4:38:09 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted: You should try cleaning the MAF sensor first. Wife's Windstar kept saying both banks were bad. I fixed it with a $1 can of carb cleaner. I have brake cleaner would that work? |
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Posted: 9/16/2009 4:41:24 PM EDT
[#16]
Liquid Wrench while she's still warm (but not hot). Let that soak in for a while, then hit it with a box-end wrench before it gets cold. You want it a little warm so everything doesn't contract and make it impossible to get out. I've seen people rip O2 bungs out of headers because they tried to pull O2 sensors out unlubed and cold.
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Posted: 9/16/2009 5:10:25 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted: Quoted: You should try cleaning the MAF sensor first. Wife's Windstar kept saying both banks were bad. I fixed it with a $1 can of carb cleaner. I have brake cleaner would that work? Yes, BUT. A dirty MAF will cause a lean run on both banks and give you codes p0171 and p0174, so that's not your problem. The best way to test your problem (without a scan tool) is to use a DVOM on the B1S2 circuit––but, you need to know what to look for. If an O2 is cheap, you may just shotgun one in there and see what happens. If it doesn't work, seek a professional. 
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Posted: 9/16/2009 5:18:19 PM EDT
[#18]
It's an old truck and a Ford so it will be rusted in there. Don't be afraid to get the torch out and get the base red hot.
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Posted: 9/16/2009 5:22:17 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Can someone walk me through, or just give me information about replacing an O2 sensor in my 96 Ford Ranger? The code from the check engine light indicates it's P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2. thanks. i'm a ford tech, IM me if you need help. bank#1 is the side that the #1 spark plug is on, sensor two will indicate cat.monitor hego failure, base part # is 9G444 if remeber right. just disconnect the negative ground cable while performing the repair. if you need anything shoot me an IM |
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Posted: 9/16/2009 5:28:51 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Quoted:
You should try cleaning the MAF sensor first. Wife's Windstar kept saying both banks were bad. I fixed it with a $1 can of carb cleaner. I have brake cleaner would that work? p0136 is a circiut code, cleaning the MAF will do no good for this DTC and if your not careful you can damange the MAF 
the reason cleaning the maf sensor repaired this guys windstar is 2 prong, the sample tube gets dirty over time, or someone changed the air filter and got some sort of debris on the hotwire/or in the ample tube and caused the MAF to weigh the incoming air incorrectly. vacuum leaks are the most misdiagnoised DTC's we have for lean DTC's, the codes should have been p0171, p0174 for a concern like his |
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Posted: 9/16/2009 5:34:13 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Can someone walk me through, or just give me information about replacing an O2 sensor in my 96 Ford Ranger? The code from the check engine light indicates it's P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2. thanks. No freaking way. My CEL came on in my ranger yesterday. Same code same sensor. Cleared the code and it has stayed off so far. Kepping my fingers crossed. it will come back on after 2 drive cycles, the PCM must see the part fail twice in the drive cycles to turn on the MIL. condinsation causes most the p0136 DTC's due to the porcalin heater inside the HEGO, hope that helps. that's why you don't want to drop a hego, on the misdiaged HEGO we had to return to ford under warranty, we would just throw them on the ground to break the heater
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:22:28 AM EDT
[#22]
Yay - the CEL came back on in *my* ranger, with code P0420. Looks like I get to replace the cat.
Anyone familiar with custom 'chips'? Would it be possible to reprogram the engine computer (or replace it) so that it compensates adequately for running it without the cat? |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 4:57:44 PM EDT
[#23]
lol, check engine light turned off on the way home today.
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