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Posted: 9/15/2009 10:53:09 AM EDT
[#1]
both
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Posted: 9/15/2009 10:53:50 AM EDT
[#2]
Might as well go with a longer barrel if it's something you'll never have to conceal.
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Posted: 9/15/2009 10:55:43 AM EDT
[#3]
I like the 6" version as well for general use.
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Posted: 9/15/2009 10:58:16 AM EDT
[#4]
Make sure to get one with a steel cylinder. Some of the early 10 shot guns had aluminum.
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Posted: 9/15/2009 10:58:51 AM EDT
[#5]
Personal preference, I like the 4" ones, 6" might be a bit more accurate.
Either one is going to be louder than hell in your basement. |
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:00:12 AM EDT
[#6]
I got the six incher for about $400 several years ago. Trigger pull weight is adjustable and I adjusted it to the same level as my centerfire revolvers. It then failed to light off my federal, winchster and remington .22 cartridges. It required a very heavy pull to reliably fire rimfires so I sold it for $450 and bought a taurus .22 in stainless. It also suffers from heavy trigger pull (wolff spring kit proved too light to ignite rimfires) but I don't have as much money tied up in it.
YMMV |
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:03:54 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Either one is going to be louder than hell in your basement. LOL...it can't be any louder than the Snubnosed Taurus 94 I previously shot in my basement! |
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:04:13 AM EDT
[#8]
I've got the 6" 10 shot version. It's an expensive .22 but you get what you pay for.
I have no skills, but the range officer was pinging the 200 yrd gong with it. |
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:06:01 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Might as well go with a longer barrel if it's something you'll never have to conceal. That's what I'm thinking. But I'm worried about balance and asthetics as well. |
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:08:03 AM EDT
[#10]
I would go with the 6 inch for the increased sight radius. The 8 inch is way too frontheavy, though.
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:18:16 AM EDT
[#11]
Our club has two of the older six shot versions, a four and a six. The four gets shot a lot more. The six is a bit of a load. At fity feet, no one has yet noticed a significant difference in accuracy.
Triggers are not adjustable in the conventional sense. You can turn out the spring tension screw a bit, which will lighten the DA pull. BUT, this almost always results in light hammer strikes and then misfires. The spring tension screw is there to assist in take down and should not be considered a trigger pull adjustment. |
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:20:01 AM EDT
[#12]
EDIT: Excellent use of post #617 if I say so myself! My 4" six shot 617 is one of my favorite revolvers. 
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:23:04 AM EDT
[#13]
I have the 4", 10 shot 617. I bought it mainly for teaching new shooters, so I could have a revolver for them to compare to semi-autos. I think the 6" are too front heavy, especially for this purpose. I also like the 4" because if I ever start shooting center-fire revolvers in competition, they would most likely be the same barrel length.
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:23:44 AM EDT
[#14]
I had a 6" 617 and it was, hands down, one of the finest revolvers I've ever shot of any caliber or description (and I've fired most of them, owned many of them).
It's one of very few firearms I regret parting with, and I will own another one down the road... |
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:27:04 AM EDT
[#15]
Would it be your only .22 pistol? If it is, get the 4" in case you teach any noobs to shoot. For a beginner gun it's pretty heavy and they may have trouble with it. If you have other .22s, go ahead and get the 6".
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:28:07 AM EDT
[#16]
I've always preferred 4" they balance better IMO.
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:37:36 AM EDT
[#17]
Poll added. Vote!
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:39:42 AM EDT
[#18]
I have a Model 17 10 shot with a 6" .... love it.
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:46:59 AM EDT
[#19]
Mine is the 6" version as is my model 29.
Paid 325 for mine. 
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:46:59 AM EDT
[#20]
I would go with the 6"
I have a 6" 617 as well as two 17s all with 6" barrels. If you are going to carry the gun as a trail gun or whatever, obviously the 4" has an advantage. I have a 4 3/8" Single Six for that and don't even own a holster for my 6" K-Frames. |
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:49:01 AM EDT
[#21]
Quoted: I got the six incher for about $400 several years ago. Trigger pull weight is adjustable and I adjusted it to the same level as my centerfire revolvers. It then failed to light off my federal, winchster and remington .22 cartridges. It required a very heavy pull to reliably fire rimfires so I sold it for $450 and bought a taurus .22 in stainless. It also suffers from heavy trigger pull (wolff spring kit proved too light to ignite rimfires) but I don't have as much money tied up in it. YMMV The strain screw is NOT a trigger weight adjustment. |
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:52:42 AM EDT
[#22]
I have the 4" version but then again I have the 4" 686 and 629.
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Posted: 9/15/2009 11:54:41 AM EDT
[#23]
6" assuming it is a range plinker. you will appreciate the increase accuracy that is often lacking from shorter barreled .22s.
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Posted: 9/15/2009 12:11:01 PM EDT
[#24]
I prefer the balance and feel of the four inch.
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Posted: 9/15/2009 12:16:50 PM EDT
[#25]
I really want the 6-inch myself... Very nice guns!
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Posted: 9/15/2009 1:09:54 PM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
I got the six incher for about $400 several years ago. Trigger pull weight is adjustable and I adjusted it to the same level as my centerfire revolvers. It then failed to light off my federal, winchster and remington .22 cartridges. It required a very heavy pull to reliably fire rimfires so I sold it for $450 and bought a taurus .22 in stainless. It also suffers from heavy trigger pull (wolff spring kit proved too light to ignite rimfires) but I don't have as much money tied up in it. YMMV lol wut? The only way I know of to reduce trigger pull on a S&W revolver is to pop the sideplate, change springs, and do some polishing. If you dicked with the strain screw as an "adjustment", no wonder it wouldn't fire reliably. At best, you can file a tiny bit from the tip of the strain screw, but it should always be tight. You can also thin the mainspring a little, but IMO, you'd best have a spare one handy in case you go too far––-just buy a reduced power Wolff power rib spring. |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:24:00 AM EDT
[#27]
Does anyone know, how would the two compare ballistically? How much more is gained on the 22 rimfire round by 2 more barrel inches?
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:27:07 AM EDT
[#28]
I have a 6, but want to trade it in on a 4. I have a 4" 686 and feel it handles much better, so I want to see how the 4" 617 feels.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:47:48 AM EDT
[#29]
Quoted:
Does anyone know, how would the two compare ballistically? How much more is gained on the 22 rimfire round by 2 more barrel inches? I have a 6" M17 and a chrono. Dunno if the rain will hold off long enough for me to go set it up and shoot. Anyone have a 4" and a chrono? |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 8:52:14 AM EDT
[#30]
I have a couple of the 4" version. One is a pre-lock 6 shot and the other is a 10 shot lock model. Their availablity was more the reason rather than choice. I got the pre-lock for $400 and the lock model for $425. I like the handling of the 4" though I suspect the 6" would have been fine too. If you get a chance to handle each you might find one balances better for you.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:01:21 PM EDT
[#31]
When I bought mine I got the 6 incher, cause I liked the way it looked. I really like it but I wonder if I should have gotten the 4. Our range is only about 75 yards long, so the accuracy difference between the 4 and the 6 is nil, and the 6 gets heavy after 150 rounds or so. So I voted for the 4 inch, but either way you can't lose.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:05:59 PM EDT
[#32]
I prefer 4 inch barrel revolvers for carry, and I bet you'll have a hell of a time determining whether one is more accurate than the other. |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:21:58 PM EDT
[#33]
Maddog...
I'd recommend you look at any other revolvers you have first. If you don't then personal preference can rule...if you do...are more of them 4" bbl revolvers or other lengths? Might as well get the 617 not only as a fun gun, but as a trainer. If I had a (say) Model 19 6" I'd probably look for a 17 6" to keep the balance the same. Have a 586/686 4" or something similar...go with the 4" 617. AFARR |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:26:09 PM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
EDIT: Excellent use of post #617 if I say so myself! My 4" six shot 617 is one of my favorite revolvers. 
I have this same gun pictured, same grips. The 4" barrel with a very small hole is a lot of steel. 6" is more weight than you really need in a .22. I went with the 4 because it matched my 686, but I bet it still weighs more. These are great guns, accurate, and built to last a lifetime. |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:28:21 PM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
Maddog... I'd recommend you look at any other revolvers you have first. If you don't then personal preference can rule...if you do...are more of them 4" bbl revolvers or other lengths? Might as well get the 617 not only as a fun gun, but as a trainer. If I had a (say) Model 19 6" I'd probably look for a 17 6" to keep the balance the same. Have a 586/686 4" or something similar...go with the 4" 617. AFARR I have a 4" 686 |
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Posted: 9/17/2009 3:06:09 PM EDT
[#36]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Maddog... I'd recommend you look at any other revolvers you have first. If you don't then personal preference can rule...if you do...are more of them 4" bbl revolvers or other lengths? Might as well get the 617 not only as a fun gun, but as a trainer. If I had a (say) Model 19 6" I'd probably look for a 17 6" to keep the balance the same. Have a 586/686 4" or something similar...go with the 4" 617. AFARR I have a 4" 686 Then I'd definitely recommend getting the 4" BBL (the 617 is a K frame if I recall correctly vs. the L frame 686..I think that makes for a slight weight difference)...the sight radius should be effectively the same as should the point ability of the revolvers due to the similar balance. AFARR |
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