Fellas:

I have been told all kinds of things on what I should add to the tank of my 2002 Cummins. I have heard that hydraulic oil and last night from the dealer where I bought the truck Dexron 2 ATF will increase the longevity of the fuel pump. I called the Cummins tech folks this morning and the gentleman said to not add anything to the fuel tank. I would be open to adding anything to increase the life of the motor, but I don't want to void a warranty. I also live where it gets cold (20 below F) and was told by a different guy that I should add "Worleys or Sanadyne" to prevent fuel clouding. But, both the dealer and Cummins said that this is not necessary as the fuel should already be winterized at the pump.

Please help,

Karl

Run used cooking oil in it. That will make it run better.  I am shopping for a diesel right now to try this out.

[url]http://206.61.127.5/canforums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=84[/url]

I bought a new Ford diesel back in 1983. The manual said not to use any additives so I haven't for over 300,000 miles. Only fuel system problems I've had was a new injector pump at about 50,000 miles under warranty and 2 sets of glow plugs. My Dad has had 4 diesls and adds a quart of ATF every oil change. Doesn't seem to hurt. Since you live in country, the fuel should be OK as is.

NO!!!!  Used cooking oil is full of acid, varnish formers and other gunk.  You need to esterify it to make it proper viscosity and burn rate, otherwise you WILL trash your engine.

Add nothing...except a good commercial "anti-gel" for extremely cold weather......don`t listen to anything that might hurt your engine...the cummins people are the ones to listen to...period.......

Quality diesel fuel is the only thing that needs to be run through the fuel system on any diesel engine. Cheaper is not better.

Karl- This links should be able to help with any questions you have.
http://www.dodge-diesel.org
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/
http://www3.sk.sympatico.ca/perry/Roy.htm

I have a Chevy diesel truck and run an additive, it appears to reduce smoking at start up, smoother ideal, and maybe improve power a little(its not a race car). The greatest benefit for Chevy diesels is lubrication of the the fuel delivery system; ie. the claimed increase in the life of the pump and injectors. I say claimed since i haven't had to replace mine. Also i live in the mid-west and the small cost of a supplement at ever fill up is worth it, if it reduces the chance of my fuel gelling just once.

There are many all in one formulas available. I use Power Service brand available at Wal-Mart, its cheaper than most and it seems to work just as good as the more expensive ones i tried. I believe i have seen an additive line with the Cummins' logo on it, they must make that for some reason. I have learned that you should not use ATF in your engine. I have heard of using used cooking oil in old diesels with lots of miles, i guess your truck will smell like fries from doing this.  

I would look at the forums above for help, i know on the Chevy pages this has been discussed at great lengths and probably the same at the dodge sites, just do a search for additives.
If you think people here are fanatics about about their hobby, wait till you read about some of the things the diesel folks will do for for performance, better mileage, etc.

congratulations on your purchase Cummins' is probably the best light truck engine out there now.

Good luck,
rugger  

Hey rugger:

Rugger, as in rugby player?

My dog's name is also rugger because I met my girlfriend through rugby. We both played and coached at Oregon State Univ.

Karl

That is correct Sir. Ive been playing for the last three years, i broke my ankle last spring so i've been sitting the sidlines lately. I support my hooker from the second row, you? You have female rugby players that are a)into guys, and b)good looking enough to marry out there in oregon? If you do it might be time for a road trip.

Cheers, rugger

edited to add: Try and buy your fuel at a high volume gas stations or truck stops, with multiple pumps. Diesel fuel has bacteria in it that grows into clumps that can clog filters and what not, this is worse than gelling. High volume pumps go through fuel quicker, so this is not a problem.

Hey Karl, I use an additive in mine, seems to help cold starting here in Michigan.  The maker is Stanadyne.  They make many of the diesel fuel pumps and systems so they should know what is good for them and what is not.  Check out www.standadyne.com

I think rugger is correct, the greatest benefit is protecting the injector pump, etc...

Rugger:

I also enjoy helping my Hookers from low and behind. I have also been know to put my arm around the Hooker and show em a good time while scrumming. My girlfriend is the opposite of us (you know, good looking without those knobby ears and fast!). She is a little fast wing that likes to score (trys of course!). I am going to slow her down a bit by weighing her down with a ring.  

I coached women for the last 4 years. we finished #7 in the Nation last year.

Good luck with the ankle Rugger,

Karl

I have used the gasoline version of this additive PRI-G. Works real well in preserving the gasoline, and preventing deterioation and varnish. It is available at [url]http://www.majorsurplusandsurvival.com/[/url]

[img]http://www.majorsurplusnsurvival.com/store/1135841.jpg[/img]
[url]http://www.majorsurplusnsurvival.com/cgi/webc.cgi/store/st_prod.html?p_prodid=1135851&sid=8NxGfR0HOMLlC4d[/url]
PRI-G for Gasoline and PRI-D for diesel. Either one can keep fuel fresh for 10 years and more when treated annually. The key to PRI is the proprietary enhanced thermal stability chemistry. This unique chemistry is not available in the "consumer" additives at the auto parts stores. PRI contains no toxic biocides, or fuel drying alcohol or glycol, but will eliminate the conditions that lead to algae growth in fuel tanks. If you already have slime or algae, PRI safely dissolves it and other sludge or gums in your tank - allowing it all to be eliminated during combustion. PRI also prevents tank corrosion. The quart size (32 oz.) of PRI-D treats 512 gallons of diesel.

[img]http://www.majorsurplusnsurvival.com/store/113776.jpg[/img]
[url]http://www.majorsurplusnsurvival.com/cgi/webc.cgi/store/st_prod.html?p_prodid=113776&sid=8NxGfR0HOMLlC4d[/url]
Pri-Flow is a super concentrated mid-distillate pour point depressant which dramatically improves the physical handling characteristics of fuel at cold temperatures. Flow problems occur in diesel fuel because, as the temperature drops, paraffin wax in the fuel begins to crystallize. The temperature at which fuel stops flowing (when it gels) is known as pour point. Pri-Flow pour point depressant chemistry alters the way wax crystals grow reducing the temperature at which gelling occurs and fuel filters are plugged. The wax crystals are modified to remain small enough to pass through conventional fuel filters. Treats up to 5,000 gallons.

Hey karl I have a 2001 Crew Cab Ford powerstroke and I use Stanadyne Performance Formula it is the only additive approved by Ford in the PS. It give me better performance,  it quits the engine down a little and gives me about .75 mpg better mileage. The best place to get it is at [url]www.dieselpage.com[/url] they have the best price and are good people to deal with. You might want to look at this web site [url]ford-diesel.com[/url] they have allot of great information about diesels. Another good additive is Power Service in the white bottle you can get it at Wal-Mart. And remember real trucks don't have no stinking spark plugs..

Go take a look and run a search at
[URL]http://www.tdiclub.com[/URL]

Look in the FAQ and search the "Fuel and Lubricants" forum. These guys are nuts...they do oil analysis and debate the most minute details of fuel and oil.

I drive a tractor-trailor for a living.  Unless it's cold, I don't add anything.  In cold weather, additives can keep the Diesel from gelling up.  It has to be really cold to do this, but it happens.  

As far as additives adding to the life of your engine, I find it doubtful.  They may help, but the chances of adding something that will harm it is far greater.  Cummins made the engine.  They paid a bunch of smart guys to do it.  They say don't add anything.  I'd listen to them.  

As far as getting longer life from your engine, your driving habits will add or subtract from the life of your engine far more than any additive ever could.  You'll tear one up in a heartbeat lugging it (too low RPMs), or operating it too early from a cold start.  Keep the RPMs where they are supposed to be, and keep the operating temp where it should be (engine and exhaust gas), and it will last forever.  Also run it just a short while to cool down the trubo before shutting it off.  It takes far less time to cool it down properly than most people think.  The best thing you can do for that fuel pump is change your fuel filter on schedule, don't buy crap fuel, and don't run it low on a tank.  You start sucking up all kinds of crap from the bottom of the tank.  Change the engine oil often and you should be good to go.  Use the "Severe Service" schedule in the owner's manual.  Generally speaking, the way most people use their personal vehicles qualifies for "Severe Service".

If you don't flog your engine, and do the preventive maintenace like you should, then you'll get max life out of it.  If you drive it like most people drive a car (get in, start it up, haul-ass out the driveway, pull-in a parking space and shut it off), you're engine's doomed.

Ross

I use Power Service in my 6.2L, mostly because we stock it at work and when I check out a diesel machine I grab a bottle, use 1/4 of it in the tank and keep the rest for my pickup. Stanadyne says "other brands" gum up the injector pump, but then again they would say not to buy anything but theirs. That's not meant to say that Stanadyne isn't good, I don't think anyone can say that.

Additives can be especially helpful in the wintertime. Yes, winterized fuel is filtered to remove most of the wax that causes gelling, but that wax also lubricates the injector pump - especially with today's low-sulphur fuel. The additives have lubricity enhancers that reduce wear on expensive pump components. Also, if you're NOT running winterized fuel, additives can lower the fuel's pour point (where the wax crystals precipitate out and cause gelling) by as much as 40 degrees, and even more importantly they lower the fuel filter's clog point. After all, if fuel can't flow through the filter...

 I use Power service anti-gel in the winter months, and Marvel Mystery Oil year-round, as fuel additives.  MMO is a 'top oil' that will keep the injector pump lubed, and it does work- 225,000 on my injector pump before a rebuild, and that primarily b/c the throttle shaft seal was leaking.  Another cold weather trick is to add 20% kerosene to your diesel, to prevent gelling and to aid cold weather starts.  BTW, the ol' heap is still going at 270,000, not bad for a 6.2 Chevy.

How often should I change my fuel filter? I am burning Chevron fuel at the moment. When will this fuel begin to gel? It gets down to 25 below F here in Burns, Ore.

Karl

I'd follow Cummins' recommendations for filter changes. However, you should periodically check the water separator (if it has one, I'm not sure about the new 5.9s) and drain it if any contaminants are visible. If it doesn't have a clear bowl, just drain a pint or so, or until clear fuel comes out. I normally drain my filter once a week, more often in the winter (sometimes daily) due to the increased likelihood of condensation from the warm fuel cooling off. Don't wait for your "water in fuel" light to come on!

As far as gel points go, "regular" diesel (can't remember if it's #1 or #2) begins to gel around 28 degrees F. Winterized diesel is "supposed" to be good down to the lowest expected temperature in your area. Of course, that doesn't mean it won't gel at -40. Your fuel filter may have a thermostatically-controlled heater in it that should come on around 45 dgrees (when the ignition switch is on) and stay on till 75 or so. Power it through a toggle switch if you want to preheat your fuel before starting. If you don't have a heater, talk to Cummins and see what they recommend in -25 temps. My recommendation? Buy a filter like the Racor 445R with the fuel heater option and install it inline, or perhaps in place of one of the factory filters (as long as the warranty won't be voided.) Filter elements are available in 30, 10, and 2 micron screen sizes. The heater option is a 200W element that's powered like I mentioned above, and it screws right into the bottom of the separator bowl.

Just use a good clean fuel.

I work on a fleet of diesel trucks and the only problem that i have run into is water and "fuel fungus"

"fuel fungus" ?? WTF

Don't ask me, we sent a sample off to be tested.
It screwed the 7.3L Fords up BAD. everything else, IH, Cat, Cummings, John Deere, Yanmar, Perkins did fine.

We were told to use an additive to help lube the injection pumps to prevent corrosion.


Water will freeze up in cold weather and give you a fit!

A guy I hunted with in the early to mid-90's had a new GM diesel 1-ton.

One October he had his fuel pump go bad at camp, and couldn't understand why.

The next year was when the CA government got a lot of heat because some new additive they required (not sure if it was the MTB or something for the winter)was causing the seals and other rubber/neopreme parts to deteriorate.

I don't know what they put in the diesel fuel to "winterize" it.  California requires gasoline to be "oxygenated" during winter months, but I believe it's for a different purpose - smog reduction.  No idea what they do in your state.

This business of algae & bacteria in the tank is very interesting.  Amazing, the conditions they can live in. Do they live in the fuel itself or in the condensation?

I have heard that on the average the more empty your tank, the more condensation you will have, so keeping it as full as possible would seem to help.

The old truck's manual said that you should avoid fueling at a station that's just getting (or I suppose just got) replenished by the tank trunk, because it kicks up sediment or whatever else collects in the bottom of the station's tanks.

PVFD304 you are correct about the fungus. Stanadyne makes a anti-fungal formula. Check out Stanadyne's website it explains it. Thanks for the link dbrowne1 that site has some good information. The guys and gals at Ford-diesel.com are just as bad. I just got my Blackstones analysis back.  

If you buy fuel at a local station, it should be "winterized". You could add some "anti-gel" if it gets really cold (zero). It won't hurt anything and insures you won't freeze up at an inopportune time. #1 fuel won't gel, it is like kerosene. I have mixed fuel about 50/50 #1 and #2 but the anti-gel stuff is a lot easier.

Most of the people that have trouble fuel up in Alabama (example) and drive to Iowa (another example) during a blizzard.