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Posted: 8/19/2001 11:48:25 PM EDT
[#1]
Well, I had to remove a spot weld once from a Norinco M14- The castle nut for the flash supressor was welded in place, and the flash supressor prongs were whacked off so it could be imported...
I wore out 2 dremmel bits trying to cut through that wee little spot weld..... I know it's a different thing then what your doing. I'm just saying I know where you're coming from. It's a pain in the ass. |
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Posted: 8/20/2001 12:10:07 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted: Well, I had to remove a spot weld once from a Norinco M14- The castle nut for the flash supressor was welded in place, and the flash supressor prongs were whacked off so it could be imported... I wore out 2 dremmel bits trying to cut through that wee little spot weld..... I know it's a different thing then what your doing. I'm just saying I know where you're coming from. It's a pain in the ass. Yeah, they are tough.... that kinda gave me an idea though, maybe a carbide burr on a dremmel tool might work. |
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Posted: 8/20/2001 3:38:10 AM EDT
[#3]
It might be a little large for the job you are trying to do but it probably would do what you want. If you have any true automotive repair suppliers around. There is a product made by a company called Blair. They produce a 3/8" hole saw designed to cut around the spot weld. You just center punch the weld and the arbor for the cutter has a spring loaded guide pin. In this you actually are going around the weld. The weld is always harder to drill out.
If you happen to get a USA tools catalog, they sell them in there. |
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Posted: 8/20/2001 4:23:55 AM EDT
[#4]
What type diff is it? Most of them weld the tubes in after the tubes are pressed in at 6000psi.
Why are you removing the tubes? If a tube has been bent in an accident, most likely it has stressed the main housing. This will cause a misallignment of the bearing supports. It will make noise. If you are narrowing the rear, there is a better way. |
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Posted: 8/20/2001 5:03:30 AM EDT
[#5]
One thing I`ve done for hardened bolts, is heat them up with acetylene till there red and allow them to cool...takes the hardness out so you can zip them off with a air chisel....(sometimes you`re working in a spot where you can`t torch them off)....you could try it, but don`t know if it will warp the tubes.....you might look for a spot weld cutter such as gunnut recommends...I`ve seen them but never had to use one yet.....good luck...[:)]
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Posted: 8/20/2001 4:42:25 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted: What type diff is it? Most of them weld the tubes in after the tubes are pressed in at 6000psi. Why are you removing the tubes? If a tube has been bent in an accident, most likely it has stressed the main housing. This will cause a misallignment of the bearing supports. It will make noise. If you are narrowing the rear, there is a better way. The differential is a Dana-60. It is in good condition, never in an accident. Yes, I am narrowing it and I could just cut the existing tubes to a shorter length but I would prefer 4130 steel tubes in place of the existing ones. I am open to suggestions though! |
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Posted: 8/20/2001 5:19:24 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted: It might be a little large for the job you are trying to do but it probably would do what you want. If you have any true automotive repair suppliers around. There is a product made by a company called Blair. They produce a 3/8" hole saw designed to cut around the spot weld. You just center punch the weld and the arbor for the cutter has a spring loaded guide pin. In this you actually are going around the weld. The weld is always harder to drill out. If you happen to get a USA tools catalog, they sell them in there. Snap-On and MAC both make something like that, it looks almost like a bigger version of a primer pocket uniform tool with a pilot bit in the center, buy If you are wearing out bits, this my not work too well for you.... Alot of machine shop suppliers sell center drills, usually used on a drill press or a lathe, they are double ended one piece bits they start with a pilot hole and work their way up to about a 1/4" hole, you may want to try something like that. |
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Posted: 8/20/2001 5:39:40 PM EDT
[#8]
Ive done alot of race car rears. We usually just cut off the ends and weld on new ones. I have a jig that is made to align the ends with the carrier bearings. The last one that i did to change the axle tubes already had them removed when the guy brought the parts to me. If you can set it up in a milling machine probably an end mill will cut it
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Posted: 8/21/2001 4:35:50 AM EDT
[#9]
Im not sure, but I think that Dana 60 tubes are 8620, about the same strength of 4130. Dana is the manufacturer that does press in the tubes, that is one of the problems with the Jeep diffs. The pressure warps the case.
Anyhow, it is much better to cut the tubes and weld them back on with a jig. Good luck and have fun. |
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