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Posted: 12/17/2005 3:28:42 PM EDT
Hello!
Well, my most recent outing with my Uzi went great until I stuck in the vector f/a .22lr kit. The kit started good but went downhill. The outing with the 22 kit ended when two shells ejected out utterly blown up. I unloaded the gun and checked the barrel. Sure 'nuff; no daylight seen when I looked skyward. As best I can figure there are probably 3 bullets lodged in my .22 barrel. Any advice on removing them? ...at least the 9mm worked great.  Thanks, Mike |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 3:30:02 PM EDT
[#1]
one piece cleaning rod, tap them out
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Posted: 12/17/2005 3:30:53 PM EDT
[#2]
+1 Brass rod being preferrable. |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 3:31:24 PM EDT
[#3]
REmove the bullet from a 9mm +P+ and plug with wax. Place in chamber, pull trigger!  [whisper no - SHOUTING DO NOT DO THIS HE'S TRYING TO BE FUNNY - Paul] [-Mike] *hears whispering* What do you mean it doesn't work like that with a .22lr kit? Ok, get something very solid and a hammer and pound them out. Or get a new kit... |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 3:33:12 PM EDT
[#4]
Get a brass rod available from Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace of just slightly smaller than the bore. If you use your cleaning rod you'll destroy it and it's not stong enough.
Pour lots of oil in both ways. From the barrel back to the action start tapping on the rod. You're not going to knock it out with one blow no matter how hard but with a hundred gentle/firm ones. Smacking it hard enough will deform the bullet pressing it into the grooves. Warming the barrel some might help too - not glowing hot but gentle oven at 120 degrees or so. |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 5:32:48 PM EDT
[#5]
Thanks much, guys. I found a 3/16" brass rod at Home Depot and filled the chamber-to-plugged area with Kroil. I'll let that soak until tomorrow morning and then start from the muzzle end to the plug.
Incidentally, the block is about 1/4 the distance from the chamber and 3/4 the distance from the crown. Should I try to tap it out from the crown toward the chamber or go from the chamber and tap it out toward the crown? Thanks, Mike |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 5:36:55 PM EDT
[#6]
Crown to chamber.
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Posted: 12/17/2005 5:38:09 PM EDT
[#7]
Shortest distance. Good luck. |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 5:44:30 PM EDT
[#8]
You need a drill bit, slightly larger then the ID of the barrel...........
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Posted: 12/17/2005 5:50:41 PM EDT
[#9]
new barrel
Lebrew |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 5:52:21 PM EDT
[#10]
Underwater range adventure?
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Posted: 12/17/2005 6:00:38 PM EDT
[#11]
I disagree. The bullet started ar the chamber, it rifled that way. Exit the bullet at the muzzle like it was origionally planned. |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 6:04:37 PM EDT
[#12]
How bout getting a torch and heating the barrel up in the proximity of the lodged bullet until the lead melts...
Kidding. |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 6:11:33 PM EDT
[#13]
I had a bullet lodged in the barrel due to a cartridge not containing any powder but the primer had enough blast to push the bullet into the barrel. The range officer tapped it out by putting a rod into the open end of the barrel so the bullet fell into the breech.
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Posted: 12/17/2005 7:26:50 PM EDT
[#14]
Um, replace the barrel? I learned that one the hard way.
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Posted: 12/17/2005 7:39:38 PM EDT
[#15]
Mil-surplus steel cleaning rod. Tap gently with a hammer, should come out no problem.
I used to shoot a lot of Federal "Lightning" .22 ammo until it left a lot of squibs in the barrel. I've tapped out probably a half a dozen this way. |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 7:54:16 PM EDT
[#16]
I had two bullets stuck in vector .22 barrel. A squib round followed by a blown round that held the action open. I heated up the barrel on an electric stove (coil type) at the highest setting. The bullets melted slightly and I could then push them out pretty easy with a cleaning rod. A torch will discolor the parkerizing. Spent awhile cleaning lead out of the barrel. There were no marks or dark spots in the rifling after I was done. The parkerizing was not blemished either. I still have and use the barrel. If the rifling had been marred or if there had been a dark spot, I would have pitched it. ETA: Knocking out one bullet is not a big deal. When they pile up on each other in there, it is a problem. ETAA: If this ever happens on a 9mm barrel, you have to get another barrel. |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 7:59:05 PM EDT
[#17]
I have plenty of extra cleaning rods...And a hammer!
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Posted: 12/17/2005 8:03:44 PM EDT
[#18]
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE BULLET
The complete upper has been compromised, send it to me immediately for disposal..... 
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Posted: 12/17/2005 8:05:04 PM EDT
[#19]
Just use a bore cleaning solvent to soften the lead bullets. Saturate from both ends and let stand for a couple days, then punch them out.
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Posted: 12/17/2005 10:09:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Keep shooting more through, one will eventually puush all the others out.
..Actually surviving the first two makes the third or more a minor miracle.I think the dissolving method with bore cleaner makes the most sense. If you really have three in there punching one into another is going to really smoosh them out (that's fancy talk for obdurate). Inquiring minds want to know how you missed several squibs lodging when firing? |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 10:14:39 PM EDT
[#21]
Your best bet to keep from screwing it up is take it to a gunsmith. Let a professional take care of it..
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Posted: 12/17/2005 10:21:58 PM EDT
[#22]
Do not use a steel or aluminum rod. Brass, or wooden dowel.
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Posted: 12/18/2005 12:40:20 AM EDT
[#23]
From experience: Use a BRASS ROD with a straight 90 degree end....a wooden dowel of .22 caliber size WILL NOT be strong enough to dislodge a single bullet let alone two.
Do not make the rod too long, keep it short(1-1 1/2 inches) sticking out of the barrel and use another longer one as the bullets move towards the breech. Hit it squarely so it doesn't bend. Bang them out from CROWN TO BREECH......the shortest distance. Piccolo, The rifling and initial direction of the bullet doesn't matter. I don't know where this mythical bullshit ever started  Do not use any type of steel cleaning rod or drill rod......the damge it will do is obvious. Do NOT use an aluminum cleaning rod, they are not strong enough.....any of them. Do NOT use a torch, its not necessary. The bullets will bang out. And MoparMike.....you should be ashamed of yourself for suggesting the use of a charged cartridge.....Joking or not......Wake UP!!! |
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Posted: 12/18/2005 5:49:32 AM EDT
[#24]
You might also try this a few times to loosen things up a bit...
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Posted: 12/18/2005 6:07:56 AM EDT
[#25]
I FULLY agree! |
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Posted: 12/18/2005 6:34:12 AM EDT
[#26]
If all else fails man up and use your tongue. 
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Posted: 12/18/2005 3:23:18 PM EDT
[#27]
Brass is not only stronger than a wooden dowel, but also it won't splay out or split the way wood would. |
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Posted: 12/18/2005 3:30:59 PM EDT
[#28]
It used to be a common practice to drive a lead slug down a bore to determine the exact bore size. It is not really difficult to drive a bullet down a bore. You shouldn't have any problem with a brass rod.
Lubricate the bore with some oil and it will drive right out, no problem. |
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Posted: 12/18/2005 3:48:38 PM EDT
[#29]
Doing stuck rounds is part of my job, Rule of thumb the bullet got stuck going one direction so don't make it go that way any more, out saturate it with lub get a brass as close to the bore diameter as possible concave it the tip with a drill bit and begin smacking. if it does come out clean the bore then then have a good gunsmith inspect it before you try to fire it again. Unless you have and EOD tool kit that is about your only viable option.
BTW I have never worked on any thing that small though usualy 25mm and above. |
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Posted: 12/18/2005 4:47:16 PM EDT
[#30]
THEY'RE OUT!
I filled the barrel with Kroil (from both ends of the obstruction) and let each side soak for 12 hours. Kroil did eventually "creep" through the obstruction and drained out the other end. From there, I cut a 3/16" brass rod to 13" in length and used a dremel to buff down any sharp edges. Five gentle whacks with a hammer and the obstruction - a pair of .22lr projectiles - popped lose. I finally passed a .22 bore snake with Hoppes through the barrel three times. Unfortunately, while no bulge is apparent externally, there are problems on the inside. A "ring" exists inside the barrel where the obstruction occurred. One side also has a good indentation. Hopefully this won't affect shooting, but something tells me a new barrel may be on order for me soon. BTW, ammo used was CCI Mini-Mag. Thank you for all of your suggestions and help! Sincerely, Mike |
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Posted: 12/18/2005 4:52:16 PM EDT
[#31]
Please tell me you are NOT going to shoot that without getting it inspected by a gunsmith.
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Posted: 12/18/2005 5:03:43 PM EDT
[#32]
Pre Bans, don't worry too much about the ring. I had my .22 conversion in my Uzi for about a year, when I noticed a bulge on the inside of the barrel. It did not show on the outside. Called Vector and they replaced it for free. I would just check every now and then to see if it starts to get lead buildup there.
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Posted: 12/18/2005 5:07:25 PM EDT
[#33]
Have it checked out by a competent smith before you shoot it.
My target rifle(Anschutz 1813) had a bulge about 6 inches from the end of the barrel, which was not visible from the outside. I won 2 national championships with it that way. So it won't necessarily affect your accuracy
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Posted: 12/18/2005 5:28:29 PM EDT
[#34]
They replaced the barrel but you still have to watch it..?  Confused, Mike PS. Koter and None: No shooting until I hear from Vector and (if they say not to worry) having a 'smith look it over. |
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Posted: 12/18/2005 5:50:57 PM EDT
[#35]
Sorry for the confusion. They replaced my barrel, apparently they felt it was a manufacturing defect. I was telling you to keep an eye on the ring in the bore. If it is rough, it may build a ring of lead that eventually constricts the bore below .22 cal. This would obviously cause you problems.
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Posted: 12/18/2005 5:52:21 PM EDT
[#36]
Thanks. I think the best course of action is to call them tomorrow. Hopefully they can give some guidance on where to go from here. Mike |
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Posted: 12/18/2005 6:01:48 PM EDT
[#37]
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