I have set a lot of slate. First, go through all of them, cull the ones that look ugly, that are cracked/delaminating, or are too thick or too thin to be stable to use as cuts later. They may need to be washed to insure a proper bond. I like to put a coat of sealer (on the face only)on them before setting, this acts as a thinset/grout release agent.
It is important to use the right thinset, it's usually called "marble and granite" mix, it's specificaly made for setting natural stone tiles. It has more 'loft' than regular thinset, and it allows you to build up to 3/4".
The key to setting slate is to start with the THICKEST tile in the HIGHEST spot on your floor and build up the rest to meet that level. Make sure that elevation will work with any door thresholds, etc.. You can always gain elevation by building up with thinset, but you can't get it to go down mid-project.
Use a straight-edge and a 4' level to make sure that you are staying level as you go. This also helps you to get all the tiles nice and flat.
Wipe the tiles clean of thinset as you go, it's a real bitch to get it off after it dries. After the tiles are set, you may (depending on the surface texture) want to put another coat of sealer/grout release on to make grouting easier.
The key to grouting slate is to work in small areas before moving on. It can be a mofo to get all the grout residue off the tile face, so don't allow the grout haze/residue to dry on the surface. I like to mix the grout fairly stiff for slate, it's easier to control than when too loose.
After the grouting is done apply more sealer to the whole floor. Depending on what kind of sealer you are using several coats may be called for.
Take your time, setting slate is very labor intensive, even for the pros.
IM me if I may be of any further help.
edit; the book mentioned above is a good reference for the homeowner. I have a copy.