I'm a drywall noob, but I removed the popcorn from a 10' high ceiling and that ended up removing most of the tape with it. It was about 25 years old and was actually a garage ceiling (yeah, dumb, I know) I've only ever run long continuous strips of tape- is it okay to do my taping in 4-6 foot "runs", or however far I can reach from my ladder at a given time? Should tape overlap where it meets or should I just cut it to length and not ever have it crisscross? The room is too large to build a scaffolding that runs the length of it. It's a garage so it doesnt have to be absolutely flawless and perfect job.

I've seen taping "bazookas" but I do drywall taping essentially never so I'd rather not buy specialized tools.

10'?

A pro would do it on stilts or a walk plank for a continuous seam.

As for your specific questions I can't say. I have a pro do my drywall work. I've done small jobs before but it's not something I do enough to become proficient at.

I've never used fiber tape before, but I'm hoping with it being adhesive I can stick it up, run out a little extra, move my ladders, and continue running the same line of tape without having to do any "breaks". We'll see how that theory actually plays out...

I can do small patch jobs but this is something I'm pretty unaccustomed to. Fortunately it's a garage so I have plenty of leeway to goof it up and fix it later.

Fiber tape and setting joint compound.

If mixed with minimal water there is almost no shrinkage.

Stilts for moving around.

Make sure the stilts have an 'ankle action.'

I suck at taping, but I just saw an expert tape with the fiber stuff a week ago

He pulled off a few feet at a time and then stuck it up to the ceiling, rubbed it flat and repeated

Read the directions carefully, the type he used he said it required durabond the first coat. After that you can use regular mud

I tape ceilings that high with a bakers scaffold. It's nice you can roll around on it.

Durabond or EasySand.

Setting type compounds.