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Posted: 5/31/2020 9:10:42 PM EDT
20x16, 12 6x6 posts. The ones on the back are 12’ and will have a single slope roof. This weekend dug the holes and got all but one of the posts in concrete. 2x10x8’ joist and double rim joists planned. I’ll keep this updated if there’s any interest. About $1,600 in wood so far, which does not count the decking. Initially thought about trex but leaning against it after looking at cost and how we will use it.
 
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Posted: 5/31/2020 10:35:37 PM EDT
[#1]
Looks like you got a big deck. I'm sure your wife is gonna love it!
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Posted: 6/1/2020 7:47:27 AM EDT
[#2]
Don't know about TX, but around here posts in concrete=bad juju.
Looking good so far though. 
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Posted: 6/1/2020 8:32:59 AM EDT
[#3]
Looks good! Trex will hold up better, and is pricier, but needs joists closer together iirc.
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Posted: 6/1/2020 10:52:37 AM EDT
[#4]
Trex or composite decking also gets brutally hot in the sun, way more than cedar.
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Posted: 6/1/2020 11:01:47 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Don't know about TX, but around here posts in concrete=bad juju. Looking good so far though. Why? |
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Posted: 6/1/2020 12:23:10 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Don't know about TX, but around here posts in concrete=bad juju. Looking good so far though. Why? |
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Posted: 6/1/2020 12:32:26 PM EDT
[#7]
Reinforced concrete Sonotube footings with Simpson-StrongTie post bases is the way to go.
Wood in the earth is life-limited. |
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Posted: 6/4/2020 3:03:58 AM EDT
[#8]
Causes the posts to rot, even treated wood. Like I mentioned with the decks, majority of the rotting I've seen has been with deck boards and 2x4's...not treated posts set in concrete. |
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Posted: 6/4/2020 8:19:54 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Interesting, I've never heard this. I can't tell you how many 4x4, 4x6, and 6x6 posts I've set in concrete, and some have been in place >10+ years without any sign of rotting. In fact, I've seen more than a few decks that were demo'd because of rotting joists and deck boards, but the posts still looked fine....same goes with all the pole barns around, some of those have been standing for more than 15-20+ years. Like I mentioned with the decks, majority of the rotting I've seen has been with deck boards and 2x4's...not treated posts set in concrete. Quote HistoryQuoted: Causes the posts to rot, even treated wood. Interesting, I've never heard this. I can't tell you how many 4x4, 4x6, and 6x6 posts I've set in concrete, and some have been in place >10+ years without any sign of rotting. In fact, I've seen more than a few decks that were demo'd because of rotting joists and deck boards, but the posts still looked fine....same goes with all the pole barns around, some of those have been standing for more than 15-20+ years. Like I mentioned with the decks, majority of the rotting I've seen has been with deck boards and 2x4's...not treated posts set in concrete. The wood of ole, is not the same as the wood of today. In my area, we're still allowed to set posts in the ground, but they must rest on top of concrete footers (poured or solid block). I give it 5 years until that is done away with and all wood will have to rest above ground on piers. |
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Posted: 6/4/2020 1:29:31 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Interesting, I've never heard this. I can't tell you how many 4x4, 4x6, and 6x6 posts I've set in concrete, and some have been in place >10+ years without any sign of rotting. In fact, I've seen more than a few decks that were demo'd because of rotting joists and deck boards, but the posts still looked fine....same goes with all the pole barns around, some of those have been standing for more than 15-20+ years. Like I mentioned with the decks, majority of the rotting I've seen has been with deck boards and 2x4's...not treated posts set in concrete. I think the fear is that with concrete completely surrounding the treated post, the water has nowhere to go. With a post setting on pier, even underground, the water can at least leach into the adjacent soil. |
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Posted: 6/4/2020 2:33:49 PM EDT
[#11]
I've got 4X4 PT fence posts I'm pulling up and having to break off the concrete so I can haul them to the dump. Wood under concrete looks better than what is above ground. Granted, this is the good stuff from probably 30 years ago or more.
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Posted: 6/10/2020 12:45:06 AM EDT
[#12]
Updates: the rim joists are up as is the center beam. I short counted the number of 5/8” x 10” bolts I needed. So a lot of the joints just have one bolt in place for now.
Also note that drilling 6” PT with 3/4” spade bits is beyond my 18v dewalt’s ability. But I have a 3/8” corded harbor freight that’s been abused for years and is on deaths door. I literally expect it to die each time I pick it up. But it survived and drilled all the deck level holes. I got sidetracked digging drainage ditches for roof downspouts. And then I had an idea to incorporate a sink drain on the deck. Also to add uf-b electrical access.    
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Posted: 6/10/2020 6:26:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Why bother with 6x6 posts if you are only through bolting? Why not notch the 6x6?
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Posted: 6/11/2020 10:07:39 AM EDT
[#14]
I like it. Looks sturdy. Keep up the pics. I also like the dog doing his best WW1 impression.
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Posted: 6/12/2020 9:37:24 PM EDT
[#15]
Joists going in now. Trying for 16” centers but it’s a few inches off on a couple due to the piers being off due to me finding the septic tank while digging. Question: should I block the 8’ joists with a single row or a double row? Leaning toward a double.
  Here’s the star of the show. A Bostitch palm nailer. This is my first time using one and it has put a smile on my face. Drives 3.5” hot dipped nails through PT with ease.  |
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Posted: 6/12/2020 9:41:07 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why bother with 6x6 posts if you are only through bolting? Why not notch the 6x6? Possibly because I don’t know what I’m doing. I sketched this out on paper and it seemed like it would be sturdy. I am certain it’s not the most economical configuration though. I’ll add to that. I wanted 6x6 for the roof. I felt 4x4 would both be too small to handle potential wind shear and that it would look too small to be aesthetically pleasing. So since I was using 6x6 I just went with that for the whole thing. Price difference wasn’t that huge. |
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Posted: 6/12/2020 9:54:27 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I like it. Looks sturdy. Keep up the pics. I also like the dog doing his best WW1 impression. 15 weeks and really enjoying the trench warfare. 
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Posted: 6/13/2020 8:23:54 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Possibly because I don't know what I'm doing. I sketched this out on paper and it seemed like it would be sturdy. I am certain it's not the most economical configuration though. I'll add to that. I wanted 6x6 for the roof. I felt 4x4 would both be too small to handle potential wind shear and that it would look too small to be aesthetically pleasing. So since I was using 6x6 I just went with that for the whole thing. Price difference wasn't that huge. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Why bother with 6x6 posts if you are only through bolting? Why not notch the 6x6? Possibly because I don't know what I'm doing. I sketched this out on paper and it seemed like it would be sturdy. I am certain it's not the most economical configuration though. I'll add to that. I wanted 6x6 for the roof. I felt 4x4 would both be too small to handle potential wind shear and that it would look too small to be aesthetically pleasing. So since I was using 6x6 I just went with that for the whole thing. Price difference wasn't that huge. If you have any questions about stuff you are unsure of, this forum is for that kind of thing. For future reference, through bolting like that is not allowed in most areas now. So if an inspection had been needed, it would have been an issue. Thanks for sharing the pics, and keep up the good work. |
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Posted: 6/13/2020 9:28:14 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Possibly because I don’t know what I’m doing. I sketched this out on paper and it seemed like it would be sturdy. I am certain it’s not the most economical configuration though. I’ll add to that. I wanted 6x6 for the roof. I felt 4x4 would both be too small to handle potential wind shear and that it would look too small to be aesthetically pleasing. So since I was using 6x6 I just went with that for the whole thing. Price difference wasn’t that huge. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Why bother with 6x6 posts if you are only through bolting? Why not notch the 6x6? Possibly because I don’t know what I’m doing. I sketched this out on paper and it seemed like it would be sturdy. I am certain it’s not the most economical configuration though. I’ll add to that. I wanted 6x6 for the roof. I felt 4x4 would both be too small to handle potential wind shear and that it would look too small to be aesthetically pleasing. So since I was using 6x6 I just went with that for the whole thing. Price difference wasn’t that huge. Slow down then, and read/watch and ask questions  How to Attach a Beam to a Post for a Deck | Decks, Docks & Gazebos I also can see that the top of your joists doesn’t meet the top of your rim boards; that is actually something you may want to fix. You should have raised the tops to be even and then toenailed the joist in temporarily and attached the hangar after  How to Install a Joist Hanger Something like this It will affect how your decking lays, so look into fixing it |
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Posted: 6/13/2020 9:29:53 AM EDT
[#20]
Wait, are you building this over the septic tank?
That’s not a good idea |
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Posted: 6/13/2020 10:14:46 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Slow down then, and read/watch and ask questions  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5f4LisZBCTkI also can see that the top of your joists doesn’t meet the top of your rim boards; that is actually something you may want to fix. You should have raised the tops to be even and then toenailed the joist in temporarily and attached the hangar after https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hv27hrOz0gSomething like this It will affect how your decking lays, so look into fixing it Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Why bother with 6x6 posts if you are only through bolting? Why not notch the 6x6? Possibly because I don’t know what I’m doing. I sketched this out on paper and it seemed like it would be sturdy. I am certain it’s not the most economical configuration though. I’ll add to that. I wanted 6x6 for the roof. I felt 4x4 would both be too small to handle potential wind shear and that it would look too small to be aesthetically pleasing. So since I was using 6x6 I just went with that for the whole thing. Price difference wasn’t that huge. Slow down then, and read/watch and ask questions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5f4LisZBCTkI also can see that the top of your joists doesn’t meet the top of your rim boards; that is actually something you may want to fix. You should have raised the tops to be even and then toenailed the joist in temporarily and attached the hangar after https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hv27hrOz0gSomething like this It will affect how your decking lays, so look into fixing it Agreed, there will be a lot of weight carried in shear on those bolts when this deck is finished. |
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Posted: 6/13/2020 10:44:15 AM EDT
[#22]
My Man, that's NOT how you build a deck (to last). Your joists should be on girders on top of those posts...
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Posted: 6/13/2020 3:03:37 PM EDT
[#23]
Lunch break.... I’ve got the trenches finished with drain, water and electric in. Need to fill everything back in and then put in the rest of the joists.
Deck is not over the septic tank, but is on the outside edge. Not ideal, but did not know exactly where it was before now. Accessing it to pump shouldn’t be an issue. If the whole tank has to be replaced... The tops of the joists should be aligned with the rim joists. I’ve been watching this very closely. Method I’ve used is to screw a piece of scrap to the edge of the joists on each side and then have it rest on the rims in each side. I will double check and fix anything that looks off before putting on the deck boards. I’m sure you guys are right that that side bolting isn’t the best way. But I’m not going to tear everything up and start over at this point. Again, not saying I’m “right”, just have built a lot of stuff over the years and my instinct is telling me this won’t fall apart anytime soon. More pics when I am done for the day. |
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Posted: 6/13/2020 11:45:57 PM EDT
[#24]
Worked on this all day and got a lot done. Plumbing and electrical in the trenches and filled back in. Still have to plumb and wire things in, but have the lines under the deck in place.
All the joists are installed. Eye balling this from all angles the tops of the boards are well aligned. Tomorrow is blocking and decking. I will need to weld up braces for the roof components but that’s likely not going to happen until sometime next week.  And here’s a pic of me working on it.  |
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Posted: 6/13/2020 11:46:29 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Agreed, there will be a lot of weight carried in shear on those bolts when this deck is finished. Luckily it's not that high if they start to break. 
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Posted: 6/14/2020 12:05:49 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Agreed, there will be a lot of weight carried in shear on those bolts when this deck is finished. Not like 5/8" bolts are weak tho. 2+ bolts per post . Its not the best possible way to build it but its not like its going to fail bolting up 2500 pounds of lumber spread out over 12+ posts Lowest possible configuration in the shear calculator is 7200 lbs per bolt, might be higher but unlikely to be lower. With grade 5 bolts, it's 14k lbs per bolt  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 12:10:19 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Deck is not over the septic tank, but is on the outside edge. Not ideal, but did not know exactly where it was before now. Accessing it to pump shouldn’t be an issue. If the whole tank has to be replaced... My previous property had the septic tank replaced before I bought it ( tank was cracked and failed prepurchase inspection) and while I owned ( the drain field had been illegally modified a some point, which explains why the original tank was damaged, and needed to be completely replaced). They pumped the tank out then took an excavator and smashed the tank in, blew out the bottom so it didnt collect water and buried the whole thing. They didn't dig it up to replace the tank either time. If you had property where burying a 2nd or 3rd tank isnt feasible, they might have to dig it up to install the new one. |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 8:52:45 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not like 5/8" bolts are weak tho. 2+ bolts per post . Its not the best possible way to build it but its not like its going to fail bolting up 2500 pounds of lumber spread out over 12+ posts Lowest possible configuration in the shear calculator is 7200 lbs per bolt, might be higher but unlikely to be lower. With grade 5 bolts, it's 14k lbs per bolt https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/22018/Screenshot__17__png-1460844.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Agreed, there will be a lot of weight carried in shear on those bolts when this deck is finished. Not like 5/8" bolts are weak tho. 2+ bolts per post . Its not the best possible way to build it but its not like its going to fail bolting up 2500 pounds of lumber spread out over 12+ posts Lowest possible configuration in the shear calculator is 7200 lbs per bolt, might be higher but unlikely to be lower. With grade 5 bolts, it's 14k lbs per bolt https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/22018/Screenshot__17__png-1460844.JPG The bolts never fail, the wood does He has concentrated the stress on to the area above the bolts- 5/8 of an inch. Since he put the bolts vertically, each 6x6 post is now limited to the strength of wood above the bolt- 5/8” x 1.5” This isn’t going to fail anytime soon, but it’s not the right way to do it The problem really is with people adding stuff on to decks Up here they turn into three season screened decks, then 4 season fully enclosed, furniture comes in, plus snow load, etc This deck looks like it will never have anything added to it, plus the roof is directly supported, and the deck floor drop is not much It’s just odd to use 6x6 posts, joist hangers, etc when you limit the strength to a small amount of wood OP could have saved a bunch of money on materials or just designed it a little differently and eliminated the weaknesses Just like a chain, a deck or building is only as strong as it’s weakest link |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 9:42:56 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The bolts never fail, the wood does He has concentrated the stress on to the area above the bolts- 5/8 of an inch. Since he put the bolts vertically, each 6x6 post is now limited to the strength of wood above the bolt- 5/8” x 1.5” This isn’t going to fail anytime soon, but it’s not the right way to do it The problem really is with people adding stuff on to decks Up here they turn into three season screened decks, then 4 season fully enclosed, furniture comes in, plus snow load, etc This deck looks like it will never have anything added to it, plus the roof is directly supported, and the deck floor drop is not much It’s just odd to use 6x6 posts, joist hangers, etc when you limit the strength to a small amount of wood OP could have saved a bunch of money on materials or just designed it a little differently and eliminated the weaknesses Just like a chain, a deck or building is only as strong as it’s weakest link Mostly this ^^^ The problem is with the wood. That being said, OP could always go back and put steel angle on the posts below the the cross beams. If I were doing it I would get some 1/2" black iron pipe and sleeve the holes through the posts. That would do 2 things. #1 it would reduce the stress concentration from the bolts (larger surface area) and #2 It would put the bolts in a true shear (bolts through wood are never in true shear, they will bend as the wood gives way). |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 10:02:17 AM EDT
[#30]
Another option to beef things up would be to cut some 2x6 blocks and GRK (Structural Screw) them to the posts on the inside and under, to help support the beams, etc...
You could always add to the outside as well if you're really worried about it, but that would change the look of the deck. |
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Posted: 6/14/2020 11:29:54 AM EDT
[#31]
Don't be too concerned OP. Your deck will not fall down anytime soon. Your thru bolts are plenty strong. Continue please. I always enjoy build threads.
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Posted: 6/14/2020 11:58:51 PM EDT
[#32]
Blocking and decking underway. The 18v dewalt batteries gave out and I was low on energy too. The decking that’s screwed in is flat and tight. Walking on the surface there’s zero sway or bounce even with a subset of the screws in place. These are self tapping 3” deck screws that I’m very impressed with so far. I had though I’d have to drill pilot holes and tickled pink not to have to do that. The blocking has added an incredible amount of rigidity. It was fun to walk on the joists and see just how much difference it made, even though I know my line isn’t very straight.
I’ll praise the palm nailer again. Before this project I was only sort of aware such a thing existed. I’m 800+ 3” hot dipped galvanized nails into this and it’s been a huge time saver. I really appreciate the comments around the bolts and the structural deficiency this caused versus notching into the posts. I will try to learn from this for future projects. Also I think I can add some bracing or screws to the existing design to add strength as suggested.    |
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Posted: 6/15/2020 7:51:08 AM EDT
[#33]
Looking good.
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Posted: 6/15/2020 8:02:31 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looking good. |
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Posted: 6/15/2020 10:16:04 PM EDT
[#35]
Lol, all the goddamn engineers in this thread. The 5/4 decking is going to rot the fuck out before any of those 6x6. Notching the 6x6 is a shitty method too, unless you wrap that shit in typar. That method is still on the question list.
ETA: I replace no less than 50-60 rotted notched deck posts, surrounding decking and framing per summer. It's easy money. |
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Posted: 6/15/2020 10:36:19 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Lol, all the goddamn engineers in this thread. The 5/4 decking is going to rot the fuck out before any of those 6x6. Notching the 6x6 is a shitty method too, unless you wrap that shit in typar. That method is still on the question list. ETA: I replace no less than 50-60 rotted notched deck posts, surrounding decking and framing per summer. It's easy money. It's not a rot issue. It's a point-loading issue where the bolts bear on the wood. Without the notch the load can exceed the compressive strength of the wood in the bolt holes resulting in sagging and eventually failure. A highly loaded deck can fail soon after it is built (think college frat party deck collapse). OP's deck will likely last many years, but the next owner may wish to do something different that increases load and failure could occur. I don't think anyone is trying to say it's not going to last or it will fail immediately. |
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Posted: 6/16/2020 2:25:34 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's not a rot issue. It's a point-loading issue where the bolts bear on the wood. Without the notch the load can exceed the compressive strength of the wood in the bolt holes resulting in sagging and eventually failure. A highly loaded deck can fail soon after it is built (think college frat party deck collapse). OP's deck will likely last many years, but the next owner may wish to do something different that increases load and failure could occur. I don't think anyone is trying to say it's not going to last or it will fail immediately. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Lol, all the goddamn engineers in this thread. The 5/4 decking is going to rot the fuck out before any of those 6x6. Notching the 6x6 is a shitty method too, unless you wrap that shit in typar. That method is still on the question list. ETA: I replace no less than 50-60 rotted notched deck posts, surrounding decking and framing per summer. It's easy money. It's not a rot issue. It's a point-loading issue where the bolts bear on the wood. Without the notch the load can exceed the compressive strength of the wood in the bolt holes resulting in sagging and eventually failure. A highly loaded deck can fail soon after it is built (think college frat party deck collapse). OP's deck will likely last many years, but the next owner may wish to do something different that increases load and failure could occur. I don't think anyone is trying to say it's not going to last or it will fail immediately. warning issued, please be respectful to folks in this forum. |
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Posted: 6/16/2020 8:20:16 AM EDT
[#38]
Just as discussion, through bolting like the OP did is prohibited in my area
See page 10- https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf Edited to remove quote ~ZW17 |
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Posted: 6/16/2020 9:10:34 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted:[/b]Just as discussion, through bolting like the OP did is prohibited in my area See page 10- https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf IIRC, that was part of the 2015 revision, so it's a no-go for any locality using the 2015 or newer code. |
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Posted: 6/19/2020 3:42:47 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Lol, all the goddamn engineers in this thread. The 5/4 decking is going to rot the fuck out before any of those 6x6. Notching the 6x6 is a shitty method too, unless you wrap that shit in typar. That method is still on the question list. ETA: I replace no less than 50-60 rotted notched deck posts, surrounding decking and framing per summer. It's easy money. I've built decks with one career engineer and several career carpenters. They all notched the 6 x 6's to help carry the load. Like several folks have politely put it, OP's deck probably won't have any issues, but the bearing capacity of the wood above the bolts isn't near what the notched post is. Good luck with the rest of your project OP. |
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Posted: 6/19/2020 9:55:21 PM EDT
[#41]
Not a ton of progress this week, but it’s slowly coming together. The deck is in except for a few rows of screws.
  There’s a problem. The left two 6x6x12s posts are sitting 9” lower than the others due to the slope of the ground. I didn’t really notice the difference when these were going in. And I don’t want to sacrifice that height for the roof. So, plan is to lap joint those two posts by 8” and glue and screw the extension in place. Also, I am planning to cantilever the roof beams by about 2’6”. The posts are 8’ span. Good to go? |
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Posted: 6/19/2020 10:00:32 PM EDT
[#42]
What size lumber for the roof beams?
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Posted: 6/19/2020 10:04:35 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What size lumber for the roof beams? Beams are going to be 6x6. The joists are 4x6x12. I am thinking 2x6 nailers and R panel roofing, but haven’t bought those yet. |
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Posted: 6/19/2020 10:31:43 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not a ton of progress this week, but it’s slowly coming together. The deck is in except for a few rows of screws. https://i.postimg.cc/YSJdjTxq/8-FAA96-C9-6885-4-E2-A-89-B2-36-D66-C9-D59-B2.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/m2b8cY7M/18-DDFFC9-2-B0-C-4-FFB-8747-179-A8757-C4-E0.jpg There’s a problem. The left two 6x6x12s posts are sitting 9” lower than the others due to the slope of the ground. I didn’t really notice the difference when these were going in. And I don’t want to sacrifice that height for the roof. So, plan is to lap joint those two posts by 8” and glue and screw the extension in place. Also, I am planning to cantilever the roof beams by about 2’6”. The posts are 8’ span. Good to go? I'd be looking at adding 6x10 or 6x12 to the short posts, perpendicular to the roof beams versus splicing onto the posts. Or if splicing was the only option due to headroom or aesthetics, some ornamental steel gussets to box it in and a piece of heavy wall steel tubing drilled down vertically through the splice into the post. |
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Posted: 6/20/2020 9:00:52 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Beams are going to be 6x6. The joists are 4x6x12. I am thinking 2x6 nailers and R panel roofing, but haven't bought those yet. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: What size lumber for the roof beams? Beams are going to be 6x6. The joists are 4x6x12. I am thinking 2x6 nailers and R panel roofing, but haven't bought those yet. You should be able to cantilever that distance with what you are using. Can you make a sketch of how you plan to do up the roof beams, joists, etc. Visualizing it ahead of time is always a help. |
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Posted: 6/21/2020 9:24:10 PM EDT
[#46]
I’ll be turning 40 before long and I’m reminded of the George Strait song about still feeling 25... most of the time. Tonight my back hurts. These beams are kind of heavy and I had to be inventive to get them up alone. Doesn’t help that I’ve got a perfectly good 85 horse tractor with a loader that I couldn’t get into position to use. So, ratchet straps to the rescue!
  There will be one more roof joist, six total, and 5 courses of 2x4 purlins for the 12’ roof panels. Roof width is 21’. I’ll have to trim the beams so the cantilever won’t be as great as shown now. I should have sketched this out and posted as asked. Sorry.  
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Posted: 6/28/2020 11:51:17 AM EDT
[#47]
Roof is on now. Need to stain it after it dries a bit more. Upcoming tasks include built in cabinets and seating, wiring it up, adding a sink and adding steps / guardrails. But at least it’s somewhat usable.
  
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Posted: 6/28/2020 1:00:30 PM EDT
[#48]
Turned out nice
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