I got the wonderful idea of flushing the brakes on my truck last night, 1986.5 Hardbody pickup, and ran into a couple snags.

It does not have ABS which should simply things. It also does not have a load sensing or proportional valve for the rear axle.


I pulled all of the black 37 year old brake fluid out of the reservoir and had to mop out the black scum on the bottom which I'm pretty sure is all the old seals. Proceeded to break a blead nub on one of the rear drums so I now get to replace the slave cylinder on that one.

Long story short, it no longer builds pressure at the pedal just like how the clutch master died many years ago, lots of black crud and once the fresh stuff went in and got into the master it stopped working.

I figure start with the furthest wheel, passenger rear, and bleed it all out going furthest to closest. Or is there a better way?

Go buy a set of self bleeders, thank me later. Best $20 you will ever spend.

Furthest line from master first.

If you got air into the master, have fun pumping.

Everything he said.

Self Bleeder is absolutely some of the best (& cheapest) mechanic money spent!

Start Pass rear wheel,
driver rear wheel,
pass front wheel
and finish with driver front wheel.

Also - don't forget to keep topping up the reservoir with fresh fluid - if you drain a lot from the lines and the reservoir level drops too much, you are back to square one at air in the system.

I'll add, place the master cylinders cap on the reservoir but do NOT lock it in place. You don't want a geyser of brake fluid everywhere but it allows for faster bleeding.

Try bleeding the master cylinder, I use 2 short brake lines and connect it to the output and curl it back into the reservoir. Pump until the bubbles go away.

Somewhere in my stackO'shit, I have 2 brake line nubs with ends and a short rubber hose hose clamped to each tube end. Bench bleeding is easier though if it's new.

If you're doing a one man job, then a bleed tool is paramount.
I'm a fan of vacuum bleeders, as I can see how much fluid I've taken out so I don't empty the master.

If you doing it yourself buy one of these, it makes brake bleeding so simple.

I have a bleed tool and just buy a set of self bleeders every time I do one of my rides for the first time.

I just crack open the bleed screw and let the fluid drip out. No special tools needed. Learned it from my uncle and never had a problem with the brakes after doing it this way for close to 40 years.

If I want to flush alot of fluid through the system I will pump the pedal. Like said earlier, keep the cap over the hole so fluid doesn't shoot out.

And yes, don't let the master cylinder go dry.

I've bled many sets of brakes from many manufacturers and have used every method out there.  My go to method now is either pressure with a Motive bleeder or vacuum with a Holt vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight.  I have started to prefer the Holt vacuum tool so it gets used the most.  Once you go either pressure bleed or vacuum bleed, you'll never go back to any other method.  It's too easy and extremely fast especially if working by yourself.

I've done hydro clutch work, master and save replacements on this truck and my Audi. Bleeding those isn't bad. The trucks clutch reservoir is tiny so that has taught me to be paranoid.


The slave has 3 ports right off it to the calipers/drums so I don't think it'll be difficult to get the air out of the master.

I'll be ording parts (master and a drum slave) and a new CV (blown boot) to ight or tomorrow.


Thanks guys!

I do that anytime I replace a caliper.  Much easier.  Prob not faster though.