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Posted: 9/22/2015 10:16:23 PM EDT
Sorry, this post is "worthless" without pictures, but I'm going to get the information out there while it's still fresh in my head.... Disclaimer, I'm an electrical engineer, NOT a mechanical engineer - and I'm the kind of "measure twice, cut THREE times person" who caused the expression WECSOG to be created 
We discussed in the AUG Precision Trigger thread that Steyr used A2 hammer pack housings. Having become somewhat enamored of the A3/AR-style bolt release (at least for teaching AUG n00bs to operate the AUG) I decided to WECSOG my precision trigger housing into A3 form. Looking at the Bolt Hold Open (BHO) on an A3 pack we can see it has a small stud which protrudes through a channel in the housing - said channel is open at the bottom of the hammer pack housing and ends in a circular hole somewhat below the BHO retaining pin. Note carefully the hole position - it's the "lollipop" top - raising the A3 BHO brings the stud to a point BELOW THE HOLE. Emphasis is because this I fouled up in WECSOG'ing my pack... Removing an AUG BHO is easy enough - simply tap the retaining pin out from the inside of the hammer pack - I used a small brass punch and it came out with some light to moderate tapping. Now the BHO is free to remove from the top of the hammer pack - well it is if the pack in question is an A2 pack. Were you to do this on an A3 pack, you'd see that the stud will rise *ABOVE* it's normal stop now that the retaining pin is out - and be stopped by the top of the "lollipop" cutout. In that case, lowering the BHO slightly should align the lollipop hole and the stud base so the stud should just pull forward and out of the pack - if you're removing it that is. Now the BHO can be removed just like an A2 pack. Being cautious, I ordered an A3 style BHO *WITH STUD* from Pete. I don't know if the stud is available separately or not, but my "A2" pack had an "A3" BHO with the hole already present for the stud, so I just used the stud in my A2 pack. You might wish to migrate a stud, or some smart mechanical person might be able to provide a replacement option. In any case, you should now have an A2 pack with the BHO removed and an A3 BHO with stud standing by. Use your trusty Dremel-type rotary tool, or whatever other plastic removal device you choose to cut a channel up the middle of the front face of your A2 pack - pay attention and DO NOT MAKE THE CHANNEL WIDER THAN THE BASE OF THE STUD. The channel should be slightly wider than the stalk of the stud as it seems to have some side-to-side motion, but the stud is held in by the width of the stud base being wider than the channel. (Frankly I'm assuming you have an A3 pack also in hand for a template, this is just you learning from my mistake.) Remember what I said in the first paragraph? That channel MUST NOT WIDEN before the stud's vertical travel would be stopped by the retaining pin, so when you think the channel is far enough up, test fit the BHO with the retaining pin partially inserted and no stud. You should see the stud hole in the BHO through your new channel, and the center of that hole should not be blocked by the housing even at the top of its travel - mark the top travel position of the center. Now cut your lollipop top hole BEING SURE THE BOTTOM OF THE HOLE is not below your mark!!!!! If you cut the lollipop hole too low then the stud could fall free when the BHO is engaged.... If done properly, you will be unable to insert the stud while the retaining pin is in place because the BHO will not rise high enough for the hole in it to be lined up with the lollipop hole. If done improperly you will have to use adhesive* or some other means to retain said stud....which will cause complications should you ever need/wish to remove the BHO (say to swap it from AUG to NATO or vice-versa). Assuming your lollipop hole is cut correctly, remove the retaining pin and raise the BHO high enough to allow the stud to drop in place through the lollipop hole. Then reposition the BHO so you can re-insert the retaining pin, check for free and correct movement and drive the retaining pin in fully. Test the now-A3-ized pack in an A3 stock - confirm the side bolt catch lever/button both engages and disengages the BHO. No ammunition please! Once everything is confirmed, then take your AUG to the range and enjoy your newly A3-ized hammer pack. *Yes, in case you're wondering that's what I did to cover for my lollipop hole being too low - haven't had extensive enough range use to declare complete success but it was at least working for a few magazines worth. ETA Hammer pack with A2-style BHO (no stud): 
Hammer pack with A3-style BHO (stud) - NOTE "lollipop" shaped channel and hole: 
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Quoted:
I didn't take pictures because I was too embarrassed by the ugliness of the results. 
Hopefully someone who follows the above directions won't do as poorly as I did. Quoted:
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pic of results? I didn't take pictures because I was too embarrassed by the ugliness of the results.
Hopefully someone who follows the above directions won't do as poorly as I did. Cdnn sells or used to sell A1 packs, you could swap guts and try again. |
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Quoted:
Cdnn sells or used to sell A1 packs, you could swap guts and try again. Quoted:
Quoted:
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pic of results? I didn't take pictures because I was too embarrassed by the ugliness of the results.
Hopefully someone who follows the above directions won't do as poorly as I did. Cdnn sells or used to sell A1 packs, you could swap guts and try again. It seems to be working, just fugly. If the stud comes out I'll probably try WECSOG'ing it more by rebuilding the front with plastic epoxy putty or something and try again. If worst comes to worst I realized that all my variations and spares mean I have 3 hammer packs for each AUG  so I can probably afford to give one up.... Seems wacky to me that Steyr or Ratworx didn't just machine these for the A3 stud when they assembled the HTM modules. Oh well, it is what it is.
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