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Posted: 1/15/2016 4:53:41 PM EDT
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I have never reloaded. I have researched & I'm tying to get a shopping list together of what I need...
H110 powder XTP .50AE bullets My once fired cases(have about 70) I'm stuck on primers & equipment. Going to use a single stage press with a 4 die turret...I think that's right? But I'm confused on what else I need. Powder scale, should I use the regular scale or is the electric ones that measure out the powder that much better? Die's I need the .50AE ones, set of 3 i am seeing. Do I really need the media cleaner to clean the cases? And primers..I'm confused as to what I need to buy. Am I missing anything? I only am going to reload the .50AE no other caliber. Thanks |
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Quoted:
I have never reloaded. I have researched & I'm tying to get a shopping list together of what I need... H110 powder XTP .50AE bullets My once fired cases(have about 70) I'm stuck on primers & equipment. Going to use a single stage press with a 4 die turret...I think that's right? But I'm confused on what else I need. Powder scale, should I use the regular scale or is the electric ones that measure out the powder that much better? Die's I need the .50AE ones, set of 3 i am seeing. Do I really need the media cleaner to clean the cases? And primers..I'm confused as to what I need to buy. Am I missing anything? I only am going to reload the .50AE no other caliber. Thanks Large pistol magnum primers for 50AE The 3-die Lee set should be sufficient. Either scale is fine, but the powder scale is easier to read. I recommend it. Clean the cases however, but clean them. Too much gunk can reduce the internal volume of the cases and lead to pressure issues. 50AE is big enough to where you can probably polish them all by hand with some kind of tool, but then you'd have to do it by hand. Tumbling is always easier, plus if you ever decide to reload other calibers, you can do those too. Since you're just doing 50AE, you might consider one of those rock tumblers from harbor freight. That can work with the walnut/corncob media OR stainless steel media, I'm pretty sure. I don't know for sure but .50AE may need a case trimmer/length gage. I don't know if they get long after shooting, probably not too bad, but it's good to have. Lee sells those two items together in a package for most calibers, and it's cheap. Get a caliper to measure your overall length properly. First few times you'll need to adjust your seating die to get a proper OAL, after that I like to use the caliper to make sure they're more or less in spec. Don't forget case lube. I like the spray stuff with the lanolin, I think Dillon makes it, and Cabela's has their version, too, if you're at Cabela's. Don't use OneShot if you don't like cases getting stuck in your dies. Also a primer pocket cleaner is good to have. Damn I keep editing this. .50 AE needs the proper shell holder for the press. I think it uses a .44 Magnum size shell holder, but check on that. Here's the noob link at the top of the reloading forum: LINK |
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Since you're not likely to pick up other peoples brass that's been laying on the ground for days or weeks, even months. I don't think cleaning the brass is as big of a priority. I would say just pick up your brass before you head home, dump it in a bucket fill it about 1/4 of the way full with water with a dash of dawn, shake until your tired of shaking, dump, rinse and let air dry. But getting some corncob media and a tumbler isn't a bad idea, if you just shot it and picked it up just dump it in for 10min or so and call it good.
Digital scales aren't always more accurate, what they are, is easier to read and faster because you don't have to wait for it to settle. IMO any digital scale without calibration weights, is garbage for reloading. A hand priming tool is nice if you have a lot of brass to reload, but not required as most press's have onboard priming as a capability. Question: Are you reloading for a Desert Eagle? (Is there anything else that fires .50AE?) |
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If you are asking about the automatic electric powder dispensers, they are pretty nice, just pricey. They are ideal for precision rifle and doing load workups where you would do a number of different charge weights. I prefer a standard powder measure and beam scale for bulk fast single stage loading though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQnwiD2KVdo This link is about reloading the 50Ae for the DE. He is using a pretty much the same process as you described, perhaps you already saw the video :-) |
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50 ae,
Starline make 50ae brass, so pick up around 500 cases to start with, since you still going to loose case not matter what. https://www.starlinebrass.com/brass-cases/50-AE-Brass/ Bullet wise, you can get away with copper plated bullets like Rainier, but you do need to learn how to clean the barrel correctly so you cleaning the copper plating out of the gas system on the barrel. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1050134759/rainier-leadsafe-bullets-50-caliber-500-diameter-335-grain-plated-flat-nose Short version, you need to get something like Sweets copper solver to flow through the gas system and back up to the chamber port. Myself, would use a syringe that I made a tip device for it that would fit the piston block on the barrel firmly, that allowed me flow Sweets copper solvent up the barrel port to allow the Sweets to clean the copper out of the gas passage on the barrel (leave the Sweets in the gas passage for about 10 mins, then blow it out, and chase it with CLP through the gas passage afterwards). Do not shoot lead cast bullets through the pistol!!!!!! You do this, and will need to send the barrel in to have the back end of the barrel extension pressed off, the lead in the gas passage that runs parallel to the chamber reamed out to remove the lead, then the barrel extension pressed back on and retained with the cross pin reinstalled. Hence the gas port in the chamber is at the end of the chamber, and the lead bullets will shave and shove lead slivers down the barrel gas port to block it solid. Primers will be magnum, and your powder choices really boil down to H110/296 (same powder just different labels), H4227, #9, or 2400. Hence in the 50AE, it needs full loads to cycle the slide correctly. Brass, Yes is has to be cleaned, or your going to scratch the inside of the sizer all to hell. Even with carbide dies, still use some DIY case lube on the cases (your arm will than you). Hence clean the cases, lube and resize them, then throw the case back in the tumbler to clean the lube off the case and the primer pockets. As for your loads, 296/H110 and again, 296 and H110 are the same gun powder (both are saint mark 296 gun powder), so use the same H110 load with win 296 powder. Hence start with 29 grains of either H110 or win 296 (which ever one you can find available) and work up from there with the rainier copper plated bullets. http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/ As for H227, it a extruded powder and a hell of lot harder to meter correctly in a powder dispenser that is just throwing by volume alone. As for a press kit, that one is all up to you. Hence better off in the long run with something like a rock chucker press kit since the chucker press is just that much stronger, but could get away with a Lee kit instead if push came to shove. As for a turret press, not needed, and again, something like a chucker kit will be much better in the long run. Hence since your going to be lot loading, you start with just the sizer dies in the press and size all the case to begin with. Spin the sizer out, and load in the mouth taper to taper all the case mouths new place. throw the case in the tumbler to clean the cases again, and when they are pulled, used the hand primer tool to prime all the case while watching TV. From here work the primed case through the dispensor into a case block, then when you have the block filled with cases loaded with powder, then over to the press with the bullet seater/crimper in place to seat and crimp the bullets. Last thing, on the 50ar, if you have not install the Hogue finger grips on the pistol, do so now. The 50AE has to be held correctly for it to cycle correctly. Hence you limp wrist the pistol, and not only may it not cycle correctly, it going to throwing case in your face as well when the pistol twist around in your hands. My lads in both 50AE and 44 mag, before I sold them off since it became of game of how may cases I was going to loss each time I took them out. 
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