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DIY Annealing Machine (Page 4 of 17)
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Originally Posted By daeven:
Nice idea. I just tried this using a ratcheting tie-down strap wrapped around a workbench leg and a Dremel a couple of times. Perfect clean cut! Here are some more pics of my project now that I added the control panel. I still need to get a torch holder, and I haven't finished the new pan, but you can see it here catching the brass. http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/daeven1/photo8_zps8f9f14cf.jpg http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/daeven1/fed340bc-2671-4fee-84e4-a3c731b54c40_zps402db386.jpg http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/daeven1/photo7_zps56899ad0.jpg http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/daeven1/photo1_zpsfd0952fa.jpg Originally Posted By daeven:
I think I'd use a band clamp (home depot) or bunch of big rubber bands to mount a Dremel vertical, say to a table leg or something, such that it can be adjusted up or down. Then place the pans upside down on the floor and rotate the pan into the dremel metal cut-off blade. That way you'd cut nice and even.
Nice idea. I just tried this using a ratcheting tie-down strap wrapped around a workbench leg and a Dremel a couple of times. Perfect clean cut! Here are some more pics of my project now that I added the control panel. I still need to get a torch holder, and I haven't finished the new pan, but you can see it here catching the brass. http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/daeven1/photo8_zps8f9f14cf.jpg http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/daeven1/fed340bc-2671-4fee-84e4-a3c731b54c40_zps402db386.jpg http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/daeven1/photo7_zps56899ad0.jpg http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y521/daeven1/photo1_zpsfd0952fa.jpg Looks good. I really like the dual cuts and screws in the drop spindle. The pan cut came out nice and clean. |
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
Looks great so far. I think I'd use a band clamp (home depot) or bunch of big rubber bands to mount a Dremel vertical, say to a table leg or something, such that it can be adjusted up or down. Then place the pans upside down on the floor and rotate the pan into the dremel metal cut-off blade. That way you'd cut nice and even. http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/145/b3/b3c23b7a-6c1f-45c1-8c91-7315c6b295c3_145.jpg Three questions for ya:
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
Any tips on cutting the pans down to size? I plan to use one that will do both 223 and 300, then one for 308. I haven't given it any thought, but that is the next step, along with the opening. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/front4_zps922c79e5.jpg Looks great so far. I think I'd use a band clamp (home depot) or bunch of big rubber bands to mount a Dremel vertical, say to a table leg or something, such that it can be adjusted up or down. Then place the pans upside down on the floor and rotate the pan into the dremel metal cut-off blade. That way you'd cut nice and even. http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/145/b3/b3c23b7a-6c1f-45c1-8c91-7315c6b295c3_145.jpg Three questions for ya:
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Thanks - I'll try the Dremel idea. And your answers: 1) The foot print is smaller. This one is 13 x 13, the other is 15 x 18. Even though this is a little taller, the feeder on the other requires about 1.5' above the table. This model could be made smaller, possibly 10" square and not as tall. The height below the motors for the torch to sit is more important than the top/feeder height. 2) The pans, at least mine do not stack. They are straight walled. I just used a short bolt into the threaded coupler with a washer on either side. Not a big deal to change. 3) This design is much more simple and appears to do the same thing. It is a heck of a lot less work. The other took weeks to build and quite a bit of tinkering. The other is like watching a mouse trap game in action, but caliber changes take a little time/adjustment, especially between 308 and 300. The two torches may be used on the new one, I'll have to see if I can figure it out, so that is not out of the picture. However, from playing with it, the motors used on this one have a lot more room for slow speed adjustment. Even with two torches on the other one, 308 is pushing the limits of the low end because when it slows down, gravity works against some of the spring loaded parts (like the drop door). I think Bigdogg and I discussed that issue in the other thread. I'll add 4) The new one one costs a lot less! I'll let you know the outcome and which one I prefer. Either way, for me (and I think you, too) these projects are more about the fun of building them. Thanks to the OP and skippo for the design and idea! |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
I think I understand what you mean, but it won't work. The neck of the case has to stick out beyond the pan to catch the flame. The pan's entire depth has to be changed. The same depth should work for 300 and 223. Or a deeper pan might work for 223 and 308. The difference in 300 and 308 is too great (I haven't tested it yet, but will.). Cutting a window would work for the drop part, but not the flame part - unless I'm not getting what you mean. The strength of the pan without the lip is not an issue. The pan is just spinning with a single case so it's not under any pressure or load really. What about.....cutting a set of slits in pan maybe 1/2" long.....3 of them equal distant around the circumference. Cut a set for each case length. Then take a piece of thin aluminum or even galv. steel sheet & cut in a circle the diameter of the pan inside......excepting for 3 "tabs" that will go into the slits. One could have slits for each case length......and false bottoms if you will....for each case length. Tabs only have to be 1/32" extra to have them snap in where they go. That way you only have to buy a single pan, and make a single aluminum disk that will be moved forward and backward, or left out completely for a caliber change. Obviously you'd have to make your torch in and out adjustable. |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
The funnel was put on today. Made of 1" x 2" angle aluminum. Each side is 6", with a hack saw slice in the 1" side at 3", then bent to the correct angle in a bench vise. Tested and seems to work fine. Any tips on cutting the pans down to size? I plan to use one that will do both 223 and 300, then one for 308. I haven't given it any thought, but that is the next step, along with the opening. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/front4_zps922c79e5.jpg i am going to use a cut off wheel. make some reference marks around the pan and take some 3/4"masking tape and wrap it around. the tape sould go around decently straight. use the take as a reference. On a happy note my machinist buddy said he could whip my hubs out this weekend. It sucks I cant do it myself on company owned machines after hours....damn steel workers... 
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Probably be easy enough to find some way of storing different pans on the back of the machine. Just bolt/unbolt different height pans to the motor/shaft.
ETA: come to think of it, there's a lot of unused space in the box. How about some slots on the bottom of the face or back? |
Just remember, it was Ping! before it was Pew-Pew-Pew....Harv24
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
I think I understand what you mean, but it won't work. The neck of the case has to stick out beyond the pan to catch the flame. The pan's entire depth has to be changed. The same depth should work for 300 and 223. Or a deeper pan might work for 223 and 308. The difference in 300 and 308 is too great (I haven't tested it yet, but will.). Cutting a window would work for the drop part, but not the flame part - unless I'm not getting what you mean. The strength of the pan without the lip is not an issue. The pan is just spinning with a single case so it's not under any pressure or load really. Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
The funnel was put on today. Made of 1" x 2" angle aluminum. Each side is 6", with a hack saw slice in the 1" side at 3", then bent to the correct angle in a bench vise. Tested and seems to work fine. Any tips on cutting the pans down to size? I plan to use one that will do both 223 and 300, then one for 308. I haven't given it any thought, but that is the next step, along with the opening. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/front4_zps922c79e5.jpg From the way I see it, you don't have to cut through the lip of the pan. Leaving the rolled lip will leave the cake pan stronger than just cutting a slice out of the whole side. If your pan is tall enough for .308 cases, cut a rectangular window between the bottom and lip of the pan. I agree that a Dremel with a cutoff wheel is the way to go, but it shouldn't be any harder to cut out a window than a slice. That's exactly what I was thinking. I have parts ordered, but waiting on the slow boat from China. I think I understand what you mean, but it won't work. The neck of the case has to stick out beyond the pan to catch the flame. The pan's entire depth has to be changed. The same depth should work for 300 and 223. Or a deeper pan might work for 223 and 308. The difference in 300 and 308 is too great (I haven't tested it yet, but will.). Cutting a window would work for the drop part, but not the flame part - unless I'm not getting what you mean. The strength of the pan without the lip is not an issue. The pan is just spinning with a single case so it's not under any pressure or load really. On a side note, how well does the cake pan work for turning cases? Does it have enough "bite" to keep the case turning consistently? |
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On a side note, how well does the cake pan work for turning cases? Does it have enough "bite" to keep the case turning consistently?
No issues at all with 223 cases. Don't forget to install some kind of stop behind the case, especially if you have sloped-sided pans. |
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Originally Posted By rcav8r:
Probably be easy enough to find some way of storing different pans on the back of the machine. Just bolt/unbolt different height pans to the motor/shaft. ETA: come to think of it, there's a lot of unused space in the box. How about some slots on the bottom of the face or back? Maybe some studs. not as much room as you think.in the back of the machine. My PC power supply is alot taller then the Ebay one but its free! I already made a extra slot in mine for the power cord to be hidden away. That is one thing that drives me nuts house hold appliance and tool. The cords never have a good place to be stored and get wrapped up around it... always in the way! I will look into a way to store the pans. Maybe on the bottom side? Put the base on some feet and make some sheet metal holders for the pans. |
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Originally Posted By GHPorter:
You got exactly what I mean, and I had completely missed the flame part. Without the burner in place, that was something I didn't look for. On a side note, how well does the cake pan work for turning cases? Does it have enough "bite" to keep the case turning consistently? Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
The funnel was put on today. Made of 1" x 2" angle aluminum. Each side is 6", with a hack saw slice in the 1" side at 3", then bent to the correct angle in a bench vise. Tested and seems to work fine. Any tips on cutting the pans down to size? I plan to use one that will do both 223 and 300, then one for 308. I haven't given it any thought, but that is the next step, along with the opening. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/front4_zps922c79e5.jpg From the way I see it, you don't have to cut through the lip of the pan. Leaving the rolled lip will leave the cake pan stronger than just cutting a slice out of the whole side. If your pan is tall enough for .308 cases, cut a rectangular window between the bottom and lip of the pan. I agree that a Dremel with a cutoff wheel is the way to go, but it shouldn't be any harder to cut out a window than a slice. That's exactly what I was thinking. I have parts ordered, but waiting on the slow boat from China. I think I understand what you mean, but it won't work. The neck of the case has to stick out beyond the pan to catch the flame. The pan's entire depth has to be changed. The same depth should work for 300 and 223. Or a deeper pan might work for 223 and 308. The difference in 300 and 308 is too great (I haven't tested it yet, but will.). Cutting a window would work for the drop part, but not the flame part - unless I'm not getting what you mean. The strength of the pan without the lip is not an issue. The pan is just spinning with a single case so it's not under any pressure or load really. On a side note, how well does the cake pan work for turning cases? Does it have enough "bite" to keep the case turning consistently? Been thinking about what SKIP said in a previous post about the pan acting a heat sink.... I haven't given enough thought to agree or disagree with his thought.... What do you guys think? |
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A slight set back. The face has to lean backwards. My version posted is at about 85 degrees backward tilt. It is not enough. I tilted it back by setting a small (100 count) box of sierra bullets under the front edge of the base and it works a lot better. Taking this measurement it is 72 degrees of backward tilt. The problem with not enough tilt is the case will try to roll forward, eventually falling from the pan during the the flame portion.
I'll take it apart this weekend and cut the sides at the 72 degree angle. Not a big deal. One other note. The less time in the flame, which translate to the faster the pan is spinning, the bigger gap you need for the cases to fall into from the feeder. Too small of a gap with a fast spinning pan won't allow for the cases to drop into when the opening passes so quick. |
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I'm watching all the builds and trying to sort out my version of the plan in my head as I go. I was thinking about the coupler from the motor to the pan. I've used some parts from these guys before. I'm hoping to use a few of these as couplers to mount the pan directly to the motor. A set screw will then allow me to remove the pan with the coupler and swap it for a pan sized for another caliber. In theory, if you're using large enough diameter stock for the case feeder, one of these could work to attach to the end of the feeder stock.
Coupler And if you're looking for compatible spacers to use with that coupler: Spacers |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
A slight set back. The face has to lean backwards. My version posted is at about 85 degrees backward tilt. It is not enough. I tilted it back by setting a small (100 count) box of sierra bullets under the front edge of the base and it works a lot better. Taking this measurement it is 72 degrees of backward tilt. The problem with not enough tilt is the case will try to roll forward, eventually falling from the pan during the the flame portion. I'll take it apart this weekend and cut the sides at the 72 degree angle. Not a big deal. One other note. The less time in the flame, which translate to the faster the pan is spinning, the bigger gap you need for the cases to fall into from the feeder. Too small of a gap with a fast spinning pan won't allow for the cases to drop into when the opening passes so quick. Mine is at 10 degrees which is based on skips design. Hope fully it will work or I will have to rebuild my hole base or put feet on it so i can adjust the angle to work. I am going to start out with a 1" wide slot and work up from there. |
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Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
I'm watching all the builds and trying to sort out my version of the plan in my head as I go. I was thinking about the coupler from the motor to the pan. I've used some parts from these guys before. I'm hoping to use a few of these as couplers to mount the pan directly to the motor. A set screw will then allow me to remove the pan with the coupler and swap it for a pan sized for another caliber. In theory, if you're using large enough diameter stock for the case feeder, one of these could work to attach to the end of the feeder stock. Coupler And if you're looking for compatible spacers to use with that coupler: Spacers These will work. You are going to need a long allen wrench to get down to the set screw. A typical allen wrench probably wont make it for the size of set screw that will be in that hub. Since mine is held on with a single screw in the middle of the hub you just have to unscrew the screw and swap them out. Pretty simple but those will work! |
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Originally Posted By tstuart34:
These will work. You are going to need a long allen wrench to get down to the set screw. A typical allen wrench probably wont make it for the size of set screw that will be in that hub. Since mine is held on with a single screw in the middle of the hub you just have to unscrew the screw and swap them out. Pretty simple but those will work! My thought was to put the coupler on the "inside" of the pan. Not between the pan and the board. That way the set screw is easily accessible. |
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Originally Posted By tstuart34:
Been thinking about what SKIP said in a previous post about the pan acting a heat sink.... I haven't given enough thought to agree or disagree with his thought.... What do you guys think? I do not think that is an issue due to pans overall size (heat dispersion) and the thickness of the pan. It may get hot at the initial site but it will dissipate very quickly. V |
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Originally Posted By tstuart34:
I already made a extra slot in mine for the power cord to be hidden away. That is one thing that drives me nuts house hold appliance and tool. The cords never have a good place to be stored and get wrapped up around it... always in the way! How bout using one of those 120V power sockets like on the back of a computer where a power cord plugs into it. That way when not in use it could be disconnected and stored away. V |
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Originally Posted By Vinny302:
How bout using one of those 120V power sockets like on the back of a computer where a power cord plugs into it. That way when not in use it could be disconnected and stored away. V Originally Posted By Vinny302:
Originally Posted By tstuart34:
I already made a extra slot in mine for the power cord to be hidden away. That is one thing that drives me nuts house hold appliance and tool. The cords never have a good place to be stored and get wrapped up around it... always in the way! How bout using one of those 120V power sockets like on the back of a computer where a power cord plugs into it. That way when not in use it could be disconnected and stored away. V That's what I'm thinking! More slow shipping from China! Switched Socket |
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tstuart34, did you ever get your computer power supply to output more than 11V on the 12V line? If I read things right when you were testing your motors you said it was a little weak on the voltage.
I may have a way to help with that. |
-There are old reloaders and careless reloaders, but there are no old, careless reloaders-
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Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
That's what I'm thinking! More slow shipping from China! You could get it faster from some place like Mouser Electronicsor DigiKey. In addition I was reading about someone using a PC power supply. This seems like drastic over kill to me. The two motors and speed controller power requirements could easily be handled by an appropriately sized wall wart transformer. This is actually what I was talking about. I salvaged it from some electronics that I scrapped. 
V |
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My first pan i cut for the .223 ( small cases ) i used a grinder G clamped to my workbench, following my tape i put around the pan as a guide. The second pan and the rest was used in the drill press, i drilled the center and then chucked it in the drill press using the slowest speed and ising the grinder to cut the rim off the pan.
The slots are all in my annealer ( 20mm ) this hasnt caused me any issues. The case stopper in the drum isnt straight, it has a taper to it as none of my cases are straight walled. I also have 10-15 mm of space were the flame can do its job on the neck and shoulder. The pan gets a little warm ( in summer ) whilst annealing 100 cases at a time, but in the time ive used it its never been that hot that i couldnt place my hand on it, ive seen some newer vids on youtube following my build, with some builds having the case stopper glowing red hot etc. the build plans i posted on our forum was for the parts i used in my build. If anyone is going to use differant parts then there will be some slight mods that some may have to do and overcome. In a 100 cases i might adjust the case feeder 2-3 times a session, adjusting the speed + or - 1 point on the digi read out. ( this is a givin due to the motors not the exact same rpm wise ) little bot of a pain but no major concidering what cost i have in the build $60 for a auto annealer. :) since i started annealing with my build my groups are more consistant and my scores in F class standard and open have also incressed ( this i belive is due to the more consistant annealing, thus giving more consistant neck tension, then over the old ways i had done it in the past. like the drill and socket. My last big shoot i dropped .1 from a perfect score at 600yard comp ( pretty stoked ) but ive been averaging a extra 8% better scores since i used my new machine. So it must be doing a pretty good job as everything else is the same in my reloading process. Also it should be noted i use 750f templiq to set my temps, super clean cases ( like ss tumbled ) wont show or give a good indicator of temp/anneal. Tarnished cases will show annealing better. But i am sure many of you would already know already. Op i had sent you copys of the plans you wanted from me, but i havent heard anything back. The email didnt bounce so i assume you got them. Hope it helps somewhat. I have another project and build in the pipeline. But i need some more free time to get down to building it. Below is a pic of some loaded 80 grn vlds ( these cases i didnt tumble as they were shot then reloaded for the comp the next day )  </a>" />
Regards Skip |
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Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
My thought was to put the coupler on the "inside" of the pan. Not between the pan and the board. That way the set screw is easily accessible. Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
Originally Posted By tstuart34:
These will work. You are going to need a long allen wrench to get down to the set screw. A typical allen wrench probably wont make it for the size of set screw that will be in that hub. Since mine is held on with a single screw in the middle of the hub you just have to unscrew the screw and swap them out. Pretty simple but those will work! My thought was to put the coupler on the "inside" of the pan. Not between the pan and the board. That way the set screw is easily accessible.  Sorry I get one track mind sometimes. That would work fine.
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Originally Posted By Vinny302:
I do not think that is an issue due to pans overall size (heat dispersion) and the thickness of the pan. It may get hot at the initial site but it will dissipate very quickly. V Originally Posted By Vinny302:
Originally Posted By tstuart34:
Been thinking about what SKIP said in a previous post about the pan acting a heat sink.... I haven't given enough thought to agree or disagree with his thought.... What do you guys think? I do not think that is an issue due to pans overall size (heat dispersion) and the thickness of the pan. It may get hot at the initial site but it will dissipate very quickly. V What I meant and I think what Skip meant was a heat sink to pull the heat from the case... |
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Originally Posted By Vinny302:
You could get it faster from some place like Mouser Electronicsor DigiKey. In addition I was reading about someone using a PC power supply. This seems like drastic over kill to me. The two motors and speed controller power requirements could easily be handled by an appropriately sized wall wart transformer. This is actually what I was talking about. I salvaged it from some electronics that I scrapped. http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSC_00251.JPG V Originally Posted By Vinny302:
Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
That's what I'm thinking! More slow shipping from China! You could get it faster from some place like Mouser Electronicsor DigiKey. In addition I was reading about someone using a PC power supply. This seems like drastic over kill to me. The two motors and speed controller power requirements could easily be handled by an appropriately sized wall wart transformer. This is actually what I was talking about. I salvaged it from some electronics that I scrapped. http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSC_00251.JPG V V and KV that is exactly what I plan to use. A computer power supply has that already in the back of it. My plan is to put the back of the power supply with the plug and fan exposed to the out side. That is the big hole in the back of my sheet metal cover. If i was using the Ebay power supply I would more than likely buy one with all the other parts from china. |
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Originally Posted By shanej:
I think the pc power supply was used because it was free. I agree that a 12 wall wart would do the job if it's speced right It is oversize the 5 amp off ebay is oversized a bit. Not sure what a one cost a radio shack or walmart?? Mine was free PC Power Supply are readly available in old computers and it is very little work to make them work. |
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Originally Posted By Vinny302:
I was just asking about using the PC power supply, I have several sitting around also. I also have a box full of wall wart transformers that I have collected from various sources. I have been accused of being a pack rat by my wife and kids. V I linked a YouTube Video in the OP. Basicly the yellow wires are 12V and the Black are ground. I added a on off switch that powers up the power supply since the PC does not call for it to turn on but you do not need it according to the video. |
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The PC power supplies need a resistor (I think they're called sand bar resistors? big ones anyway) in the circuit somewhere, in order to give the full voltage. The 12V conversions are popular among the RC guys for charging batteries at home with field chargers (12V). I did one several years ago, still plugging along.
That said, I'll be using a wall wart, myself. |
Just remember, it was Ping! before it was Pew-Pew-Pew....Harv24
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Originally Posted By rcav8r:
The PC power supplies need a resistor (I think they're called sand bar resistors? big ones anyway) in the circuit somewhere, in order to give the full voltage. The 12V conversions are popular among the RC guys for charging batteries at home with field chargers (12V). I did one several years ago, still plugging along. That said, I'll be using a wall wart, myself. See thats is where I am a little confused.... I have watched several videos and some say you need a resistor between 12V to load the power supply. But the video that that I went off of does not add any resistors. It jumpers two wires together which is where i put my switch. WTH is a Wall wart?!? |
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OK new YouTube Video.... Need to load one of the 5v wires to ground with a resistor....
End of Video. |
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Originally Posted By tstuart34:
See thats is where I am a little confused.... I have watched several videos and some say you need a resistor between 12V to load the power supply. But the video that that I went off of does not add any resistors. It jumpers two wires together which is where i put my switch. WTH is a Wall wart?!? Originally Posted By tstuart34:
Originally Posted By rcav8r:
The PC power supplies need a resistor (I think they're called sand bar resistors? big ones anyway) in the circuit somewhere, in order to give the full voltage. The 12V conversions are popular among the RC guys for charging batteries at home with field chargers (12V). I did one several years ago, still plugging along. That said, I'll be using a wall wart, myself. See thats is where I am a little confused.... I have watched several videos and some say you need a resistor between 12V to load the power supply. But the video that that I went off of does not add any resistors. It jumpers two wires together which is where i put my switch. WTH is a Wall wart?!? I didn't do mine with a video, I used an article. Here is one such, although I went strictly 12V: conversion ETA: A wall wart is one of those power supplies that come with electronics for charging them. Transformer with built in plug blades, and a pair of bonded together wires leading to the charger plug, usually round. You need one with a 12V output, and amperage to handle your motors. Also make sure of the polarity of the plug. |
Just remember, it was Ping! before it was Pew-Pew-Pew....Harv24
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Originally Posted By rcav8r:
The PC power supplies need a resistor (I think they're called sand bar resistors? big ones anyway) in the circuit somewhere, in order to give the full voltage. The 12V conversions are popular among the RC guys for charging batteries at home with field chargers (12V). I did one several years ago, still plugging along. That said, I'll be using a wall wart, myself. You need to put a resistor on the 5V rail. This helps stabilize the 12V rail and brings up the voltage if it is running low like tstuart34's. Some cheaper supplies won't even turn on without a load of some sort on the 5V rail. Usually a 10W 10ohm resistor is good but I've needed to run 2 of those in parallel on some supplies to get the 12V side up to actually run 12V. http://www.radioshack.com/10-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack/2710132.html I've converted quite a few for the use you describe, running LiPo chargers for RC planes. |
-There are old reloaders and careless reloaders, but there are no old, careless reloaders-
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Alright. Time to post a little more. Slow progress just due to not having enough time.
Here is the front. I found an extension tube for the torch and fed it through a hole in the bottom right side, the out the top/back. I'll order one of the torch holders to mount to the side. They are available at Lowes for $5.00. It will keep the torch attached to the unit. I was thinking the torch standing on the side will make the head easier to adjust rather than having the weight of the bottle to deal with.  
The side and Inside the back. Not pretty, but it works. The torch tube feeding is on the left. I'm stalled on the torch head mount. Got an idea, but need some aluminum square bar.  
A top view and another top with it plugged in.  
Left to do are the torch head holder, cutting another bowl, fine tuning, touch up and final screws that are missing. |
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
Where do you buy the torch extensions? Home Depot. I looked on line and could never find a cheap one. I just happened to be looking for something else and found it with the other Benzomatic accessories. It was about $10 or $15. I used your idea with a Dremel clamped too a stool leg to cut the pan. It worked well. After cutting I laid a whole sheet of metal sand paper on a flat surface and sanded the cut edge by putting the bowl face down sanding i a circular motion. It cleaned it up and took away the roughness/sharp edge. |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Alright. Time to post a little more. Slow progress just due to not having enough time. Here is the front. I found an extension tube for the torch and fed it through a hole in the bottom right side, the out the top/back. I'll order one of the torch holders to mount to the side. They are available at Lowes for $5.00. It will keep the torch attached to the unit. I was thinking the torch standing on the side will make the head easier to adjust rather than having the weight of the bottle to deal with. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/frontwithpropane_zps0662a116.jpg https://www.sportys.com/morepics/4045.jpg The side and Inside the back. Not pretty, but it works. The torch tube feeding is on the left. I'm stalled on the torch head mount. Got an idea, but need some aluminum square bar. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/sidewithpropane_zps2c4638e2.jpg http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/backwiring_zpsef9bef1b.jpg A top view and another top with it plugged in. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/top2_zpsf71f39a4.jpg?t=1418785637 http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/toprunning_zps8867c157.jpg Left to do are the torch head holder, cutting another bowl, fine tuning, touch up and final screws that are missing. Man looks great! Mine has pretty much been on hold until after the holidays and my machinist can make my hubs.  Sucks I really wanted it done by xmas but when you get free help its hard to mad....
This is what i am thinking for the torch mount it is a conduit or pipe mount. Not sure If it what the diameter of the torch head is. 
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
VERY nice. I need to subscribe to this and sit down and read the whole thing. What have You got in to it roughly, may I ask? Thanks. About $150, give or take. Here is a price list. I probably spent a little more. I used some things I had laying around and have the tools, so this wasn't included. Pans $7.08 2$14.16 Motors $9.592$19.18 Controller $8.792$17.58 Power $11.681$11.68 Coupling $2.451$2.45 Torch clamp $6.991$6.99 Hose $14.971$14.97 Lexan $5.001$5.00 Wood $15.001$15.00 Paint $5.00 1$5.00 Screws $5.001$5.00 Plastic dowel $15.001$15.00 Angle aluminum $15.001$15.00 Aluminum rod $5.00 1 $5.00 $152.01 (Sorry for the format, this site doesn't copy and paste Excel well.) Edited: After I looked up the price of the dowel and angle aluminum it was more than I quoted - 15 instead of 10 each. |
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tstuart34: That looks like it would work. After I posted I ordered the torch holder posted earlier in this thread. (2x HQ 13mm SK13 Chrome Linear Rail Shaft Guide Support Bracket Bearing CNC Motor)
My plan is to cut the flanges off the bottom so it is a rectangle then drill a hole to accommodate a 1/4 inch rod below the torch hole (cross wise). I'll thread some set screws into the holder. I'll use some left over 1/4" aluminium rod threaded at the end and mounted like the one that holds the case in the main drum.The idea is the holder will slide back and forth, and rotate up and down on the rod.. When the flame is at the right point, the set screws will secure the holder to the rod keeping it in place. |
I got all the tools.
also, was there somewhere where there is a link to the motors, controller and power supply? EDIT I guess I'm being silly.  Did You use the ones from the first post in this thread?
Where did You source the pans? I found the link posted earlier. |
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Yes, that is the pan and I did use the motors listed in the thread. For the most part I used all the stuff posted by the op. I had to look around for the angle aluminum and the 1.75" plastic dowel. I got a foot long 1.75 plastic rod stock from Grainger (its called Acetal 150) and the 1 x 2 angle aluminum from Industrial Metal Sales - both on line orders. I was in Hobby Lobby the other day and they have similar cake pans, but 6" diameter in stock, which is a local option instead of the ones online. I'd think 6" would work the same as 5" pans. |
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Is this the proper power source? the one in the link is out of stock.
Power Source The dc 12v 10amp 120 watt. |
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
Is this the proper power source? the one in the link is out of stock. Power Source Yes - the 12v 5 amp under the selection. |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Alright. Time to post a little more. Slow progress just due to not having enough time. Here is the front. I found an extension tube for the torch and fed it through a hole in the bottom right side, the out the top/back. I'll order one of the torch holders to mount to the side. They are available at Lowes for $5.00. It will keep the torch attached to the unit. I was thinking the torch standing on the side will make the head easier to adjust rather than having the weight of the bottle to deal with. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/frontwithpropane_zps0662a116.jpg https://www.sportys.com/morepics/4045.jpg The side and Inside the back. Not pretty, but it works. The torch tube feeding is on the left. I'm stalled on the torch head mount. Got an idea, but need some aluminum square bar. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/sidewithpropane_zps2c4638e2.jpg http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/backwiring_zpsef9bef1b.jpg A top view and another top with it plugged in. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/top2_zpsf71f39a4.jpg?t=1418785637 http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/toprunning_zps8867c157.jpg Left to do are the torch head holder, cutting another bowl, fine tuning, touch up and final screws that are missing. Nice looking rig there mate :) well done. Bit more expence into it then mine, but thats the thing about diy, make it how you want :) Anyway congrats. $15 for extension hose .... When i went looking awhile ago local here in Aus i was looking at $50 :( almost the cost of my whole build :D Happy holidays Would be good to see some more pop up of others builds, i see there are a few getting around now globally :D |
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Thanks El Skippo. I watched your videos and referred to this thread a lot. Nothing more than a copy of yours. Thanks to you and the OP!
Here is the part info for the extension hose: Google it at Home Depot - $14.97. It was in stock at my local Home Depot and yes, every other one I found was expensive that is why I didn't use it on the other annealer. I might switch them out, too, however, I'm not sure the other annealer will see much use now. We will see. Bernzomatic Model # 334246 Internet # 202539579 Store SKU # 1000004315 WH0159 Universal Torch Extension Hose |
DIY Annealing Machine (Page 4 of 17)
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