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DIY Annealing Machine (Page 5 of 17)
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I discovered that I will only need one small feeder drum for 308, 223 and 300 blk. By slightly filing the rear of the channel outward (the side walls near the set screws) allows the 308 to fall into it. Although they sit a little higher than the drum, they fall great. The channel is loose for 223 and 300, but a case in the channel prevents anything else from falling in. End result, never having to switch the small drum between the three cases. To test it I stacked a hand full of each size in the feeder so there were a variety of case sizes and let it run. No problems. (ETA: Works with 30-06, too - I'll post another picture of it later)
empty/223  
300 blk/308  
30-06 (added a sticker and changed the drop ramp.) 
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
I discovered that I will only need one small feeder drum for 308, 223 and 300 blk. By slightly filing the rear of the channel outward (the side walls near the set screws) allows the 308 to fall into it. Although they sit a littlte higher than the drum, they fall great. The channel is a loose for 223 and 300, but a case in the channel prevnts anything else from falling in. End result, never having to switch drums between the three cases. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/smalldrum308223300_zps5f4a3674.jpg Nice! Now, can I do the same for my 30-06 cases as well??? I think the base dimension for .308 vs. 30-06 are the same. |
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Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
Nice! Now, can I do the same for my 30-06 cases as well??? I think the base dimension for .308 vs. 30-06 are the same. Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
I discovered that I will only need one small feeder drum for 308, 223 and 300 blk. By slightly filing the rear of the channel outward (the side walls near the set screws) allows the 308 to fall into it. Although they sit a littlte higher than the drum, they fall great. The channel is a loose for 223 and 300, but a case in the channel prevnts anything else from falling in. End result, never having to switch drums between the three cases. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/smalldrum308223300_zps5f4a3674.jpg Nice! Now, can I do the same for my 30-06 cases as well??? I think the base dimension for .308 vs. 30-06 are the same. Yes, I don't load 30-06, but I just tested a few cases I had laying around. They feed the same as 308. In fact with a torch adjustment accounting for the extra length, the 308 set up, including the big bowl works with either. |
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Hey guys, love this DIY stuff. I got the items listed and started putting them together. I am making mine 2" taller so I can mount the propane inside and use the flexible hose extension. I would like to see how you are mounting the torch head. I plan on annealing 22 PPC to 338 EDGE brass, can this be done with one cake pan cut to say 2" depth and use a spacer in the bottom of original? Any thoughts or comments would be great.
Thanks Anthony |
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Originally Posted By anthonyinva:
Hey guys, love this DIY stuff. I got the items listed and started putting them together. I am making mine 2" taller so I can mount the propane inside and use the flexible hose extension. I would like to see how you are mounting the torch head. I plan on annealing 22 PPC to 338 EDGE brass, can this be done with one cake pan cut to say 2" depth and use a spacer in the bottom of original? Any thoughts or comments would be great. Thanks Anthony This is how I plan to do the torch head using one of the aluminum holders mentioned earlier in the thread. Pardon the cheap diagram, but it will work. 
ETA: 1/3/15: This is how it came out. 
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Yes, I don't load 30-06, but I just tested a few cases I had laying around. They feed the same as 308. In fact with a torch adjustment accounting for the extra length, the 308 set up, including the big bowl works with either. Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By Kvanderploeg:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
I discovered that I will only need one small feeder drum for 308, 223 and 300 blk. By slightly filing the rear of the channel outward (the side walls near the set screws) allows the 308 to fall into it. Although they sit a littlte higher than the drum, they fall great. The channel is a loose for 223 and 300, but a case in the channel prevnts anything else from falling in. End result, never having to switch drums between the three cases. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/smalldrum308223300_zps5f4a3674.jpg Nice! Now, can I do the same for my 30-06 cases as well??? I think the base dimension for .308 vs. 30-06 are the same. Yes, I don't load 30-06, but I just tested a few cases I had laying around. They feed the same as 308. In fact with a torch adjustment accounting for the extra length, the 308 set up, including the big bowl works with either. Good to know! Thanks for checking. I don't load for .308 (yet) but the Garand has a way of burning through the 30-06. ;) |
Got some time to work in the Garage today.
I got the motors, controller, power supply incoming, pans, 1 3/4 acetal, and all the torch stuff is here, got the dimensions to cut the holes in the front. Going to get started on the feeder drum, and cutting the pans down. |
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Thank You, I still need to round over some of the edges, sand it all down.
I've been IM'ing with RLR350, I am ordering this coupler, going to thread one end for the pan bolt. I'll report back how that goes. Coupler Might work better then the flexible one. |
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
Only thing is that I don't have a router table, thinking about doing it just like You did, but running it through My table saw with the Dado blade. That would work. Even a regular blade would work if you use the hole saw first. It is a little piece to work with though and that's why I chose the router - not as much kick back risk with fingers close to the blade. |
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I'm waiting for the aluminum block to make the torch holder so I made a mock up out of wood to test. The aluminum will be the same, but have set screws to hold the torch in position.
Here is a video of it working on 308. The torch holder mock up can be seen at the end. 308 |
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Last set of pictures. I added the side mount for the propane tank. It was in stock at Lowe's for about $5. And for GWhis, a side by side comparison of this one and the first annealer I built. This one is certainly smaller, taking up less room and a little more convenient to make caliber changes since I only have to change a pan and move the torch a little. It is not as finicky as the other one either. It also seems to be easier to adjust the flame directly to the case, which means less time to get to the right temp. One torch is fine in this configuration.
In case anyone is wondering what the extra holes in the front/bottom and side/top, they were the initial propane tube holes, but didn't permit the hose enough flexibility, so I did it another way.  
Thanks to the OP for starting this thread and everyone that gave input. |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Last set of pictures. I added the side mount for the propane tank. It was in stock at Lowe's for about $5. And for GWhis, a side by side comparison of this one and the first annealer I built. This one is certainly smaller, taking up less room and a little more convenient to make caliber changes since I only have to change a pan and move the torch a little. It is not as finicky as the other one either. It also seems to be easier to adjust the flame directly to the case, which means less time to get to the right temp. One torch is fine in this configuration. In case anyone is wondering what the extra holes in the front/bottom and side/top, they were the initial propane tube holes, but didn't permit the hose enough flexibility, so I did it another way. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/sidemount_zps32219509.jpg http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/sidemount2_zps3691b837.jpg http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/footprint2_zps47a1f2f9.jpg Thanks to the OP for starting this thread and everyone that gave input. looks great! i am about ready to give up on my machinist and find another way. i havent worked on mine sine i dont have hubs and xmas rolled around. i still plan on posting more detail in the op once i finish things up. im almost tempted to change my designnow to do a single motor since i have a bare frame right now... |
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Good stuff in here. Couple of questions.
Any source for 5 inch straight wall/non stacking pans? Not sure if the Fat Daddio's Anodized Aluminum Round Cake Pan, 5-Inch x 3-Inch listed is straight walled. Also some dimensions are need. Depth of cut for pan. Length width height of box including the top and bottom of box would be good. Have searched but couldn't find it. I did find the X and Y hole centers and will go with them if they are correct. Thanks and keep on building. |
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Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Good stuff in here. Couple of questions. Any source for 5 inch straight wall/non stacking pans? Not sure if the Fat Daddio's Anodized Aluminum Round Cake Pan, 5-Inch x 3-Inch listed is straight walled. Also some dimensions are need. Depth of cut for pan. Length width height of box including the top and bottom of box would be good. Have searched but couldn't find it. I did find the X and Y hole centers and will go with them if they are correct. Thanks and keep on building. Duct pipe end cap. |
Just remember, it was Ping! before it was Pew-Pew-Pew....Harv24
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Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Good stuff in here. Couple of questions. Any source for 5 inch straight wall/non stacking pans? Not sure if the Fat Daddio's Anodized Aluminum Round Cake Pan, 5-Inch x 3-Inch listed is straight walled. http://www.amazon.com/Fat-Daddios-Anodized-Aluminum-5-Inch/dp/B0000VLIGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419899276&sr=8-2&keywords=fat+daddio+5%22+pan Also some dimensions are need. Depth of cut for pan. Depends on the length of the case. I used 1.5" for 308 and 223 cases and 1" for 300 blk. Length width height of box including the top and bottom of box would be good. Have searched but couldn't find it. I did find the X and Y hole centers and will go with them if they are correct. The base is 12" deep x 13" wide. The sides of the box are 12.5" tall, 3.5" wide at the top and 6.5" wide at the bottom. The face is 13" wide by 12..75 tall - you will have to adjust the height of this to fit side dimensions when you cut the angles to create the lean backwards. Cut the height to a rough dimension and then angle the cuts of the top and bottom, custom fitting it to the sides. Dave pictures show detail of the seams. Thanks and keep on building. |
Mine is almost done, power supply is in the mailbox, need to take the dog for a walk. I made some changes today, I just can't leave well enough alone , was almost done when an idea hit Me.
I will put together a full parts list in a day or two, as soon as a couple more items show up, and get test fit. Pic's tomorrow. |
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
Mine is almost done, power supply is in the mailbox, need to take the dog for a walk. I made some changes today, I just can't leave well enough alone , was almost done when an idea hit Me.
I will put together a full parts list in a day or two, as soon as a couple more items show up, and get test fit. Pic's tomorrow. Creative way to do the drum. It looks good so far. |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Good stuff in here. Couple of questions. Any source for 5 inch straight wall/non stacking pans? Not sure if the Fat Daddio's Anodized Aluminum Round Cake Pan, 5-Inch x 3-Inch listed is straight walled. http://www.amazon.com/Fat-Daddios-Anodized-Aluminum-5-Inch/dp/B0000VLIGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419899276&sr=8-2&keywords=fat+daddio+5%22+pan Also some dimensions are need. Depth of cut for pan. Depends on the length of the case. I used 1.5" for 308 and 223 cases and 1" for 300 blk. Length width height of box including the top and bottom of box would be good. Have searched but couldn't find it. I did find the X and Y hole centers and will go with them if they are correct. The base is 12" deep x 13" wide. The sides of the box are 12.5" tall, 3.5" wide at the top and 6.5" wide at the bottom. The face is 13" wide by 12..75 tall - you will have to adjust the height of this to fit side dimensions when you cut the angles to create the lean backwards. Cut the height to a rough dimension and then angle the cuts of the top and bottom, custom fitting it to the sides. Dave pictures show detail of the seams. Thanks and keep on building. Thanks for the info. What should the gap be between the pan and face? |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Creative way to do the drum. It looks good so far. Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
Mine is almost done, power supply is in the mailbox, need to take the dog for a walk. I made some changes today, I just can't leave well enough alone , was almost done when an idea hit Me.
I will put together a full parts list in a day or two, as soon as a couple more items show up, and get test fit. Pic's tomorrow. Creative way to do the drum. It looks good so far. I went to use My dado blade, realised a friend has My dado insert for the table.  So I made about 5 passes with the blade, then set up mitre gauge with a clamp, and there it is. Not for the faint of heart.
Wait till You see My modification, some will like it some won't. I found one of those switched power sockets and cord on Amazon, will be here Wednesday. |
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Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Thanks for the info. What should the gap be between the pan and face? Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Good stuff in here. Couple of questions. Any source for 5 inch straight wall/non stacking pans? Not sure if the Fat Daddio's Anodized Aluminum Round Cake Pan, 5-Inch x 3-Inch listed is straight walled. http://www.amazon.com/Fat-Daddios-Anodized-Aluminum-5-Inch/dp/B0000VLIGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419899276&sr=8-2&keywords=fat+daddio+5%22+pan Also some dimensions are need. Depth of cut for pan. Depends on the length of the case. I used 1.5" for 308 and 223 cases and 1" for 300 blk. Length width height of box including the top and bottom of box would be good. Have searched but couldn't find it. I did find the X and Y hole centers and will go with them if they are correct. The base is 12" deep x 13" wide. The sides of the box are 12.5" tall, 3.5" wide at the top and 6.5" wide at the bottom. The face is 13" wide by 12..75 tall - you will have to adjust the height of this to fit side dimensions when you cut the angles to create the lean backwards. Cut the height to a rough dimension and then angle the cuts of the top and bottom, custom fitting it to the sides. Dave pictures show detail of the seams. Thanks and keep on building. Thanks for the info. What should the gap be between the pan and face? I used the thickness of a normal washer, more or less just keeping it from rubbing. Mount the motor and coupler so it's flush with the face. The way the motor is mounted you could move it back or forward if it rubs or wobbles. |
Some pic's of the machine. Need to cut the pans, got two more coming tomorrow, as I ruined the first one. Second one is a tiny bit off, think I can oval the hole just a touch, and be good to go.
And a little vid, Case Annealer Got a few days off coming up, will get it done and use it. 
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Looks great Dave. The drum spins smoothly. Nice Dillon touch, too.
The pans were a little dillicult,to get the hole centered, possibly due to the round edges making it hard to get an accurate square placement. I used the " find the center of a circle" link posted earlier by someone. I ended up oversizing the hole and/or oblonging it a little with a file. It can be adjusted to center once it's on. That is one reason I added the extension to the left side of the drop ramp. When I put the pan on the center bolt I hold it so the edge almost touches that extension and ithen tighten the center bolt. It gets the pan centered really easy. Looking forward to the finish. |
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Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Down sized, slim and nasty version progress. http://50.6.73.68/picit/1420056729.9822.iPicit.jpg http://50.6.73.68/picit/1420056941.4039.iPicit.jpg http://50.6.73.68/picit/1420057008.1695.iPicit.jpg Nice variation. I like the angled top. |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Nice variation. I like the angled top. Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Down sized, slim and nasty version progress. http://50.6.73.68/picit/1420056729.9822.iPicit.jpg http://50.6.73.68/picit/1420056941.4039.iPicit.jpg http://50.6.73.68/picit/1420057008.1695.iPicit.jpg Nice variation. I like the angled top. Thanks to your help with the dimensions. All done with a worm drive skill saw. Quite the challenge with the angles. Made a bushing for the coupler I will make and expoy it in. 
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That's pretty neat. Interested in seeing it done.
Here is the final step I was waiting on. The torch holder came in from China today. Unfortunately, the diameter of the torch hole is just sightly too big even with the allen screw tightened all of the way. I made do by adding a thumbscrew which allows for forward and back (height) adjustability. A cross hole drilled below the torch hole allows for it to slide front to back on the 3/16" rod to adjust for the length of cases. The thumb screw secures it in position. This worked out great - and I ordered four total by mistake, so OP and DaveChevelle if you want one just send me your address via IM; no charge. First picture: Before and after modification. Second picture: Attached to the 3/16" rod using thunmbscrews. The holes for the thumbsrews were done with a #25 bit and 10-24 tap.  
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
That's pretty neat. Interested in seeing it done. Here is the final step I was waiting on. The torch holder came in from China today. Unfortunately, the diameter of the torch hole is just sightly too big even with the allen screw tightened all of the way. I made do by adding a thumbscrew which allows for forward and back (height) adjustability. A cross hole drilled below the torch hole allows for it to slide front to back on the 3/16" rod to adjust for the length of cases. The thumb screw secures it in position. This worked out great - and I ordered four total by mistake, so OP and DaveChevelle if you want one just send me your address via IM; no charge. First picture: Before and after modification. Second picture: Attached to the 3/16" rod using thunmbscrews. The holes for the thumbsrews were done with a #25 bit and 10-24 tap. http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/torchholderbefore_zps58df742d.jpg http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo134/rlr350/torchholderinplace_zps7c9baa34.jpg Nice, I got the same one's on order. 
It's kinda Dillon blue, but really it matches the stripes on My car. They had a color closer to Dillon blue, but hat just wouldn't do.
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Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Down sized, slim and nasty version progress. http://50.6.73.68/picit/1420056729.9822.iPicit.jpg http://50.6.73.68/picit/1420056941.4039.iPicit.jpg http://50.6.73.68/picit/1420057008.1695.iPicit.jpg Nice, I see I'm not the only one that thought of tilting the control panel forward. Great minds think alike.
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I really hate being OCD, I got it all sanded down, rounded over the edges, then thought should check the drum fit one more time, didn't like it. My coupling was wobbly, and the drum was off center.
I found that a 5/16"s thread coupler drilled out with a 8MM bit, tapped for a set screw, works really nice. Oversized the pan hole, got it to center up, works good now, several hour delay, but I can look at it without grimacing now.
Case Drum Maybe I can still get it painted tonite. |
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
I really hate being OCD, I got it all sanded down, rounded over the edges, then thought should check the drum fit one more time, didn't like it. My coupling was wobbly, and the drum was off center. I found that a 5/16"s thread coupler drilled out with a 8MM bit, tapped for a set screw, works really nice. Oversized the pan hole, got it to center up, works good now, several hour delay, but I can look at it without grimacing now.
Case Drum Maybe I can still get it painted tonite. Looks great. The drum needs to be pretty consistently centered to turn the case consistently. It looks like you have it nailed now. |
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A simple draftsman's compass can help to determine the center of a circle (pan). Open the compass up to the point it is just barely past the center. Place the compass on the edge of the pan and draw an arc in the middle of the pan. Move the compass to another point on the outside of the pan and make another arc. Do this about six or eight times moving the compass to a new location each time. You will find that where the arcs intersect is the EXACT center of the pan.
V |
| That's how I ended up doing it. I found a method online that used a line then two compass circles, then a lime through the intersection, then two circles off that line, and there was center. Worked well for the center on the pan. The feed drum was a little tougher. |
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
That's how I ended up doing it. I found a method online that used a line then two compass circles, then a lime through the intersection, then two circles off that line, and there was center. Worked well for the center on the pan. The feed drum was a little tougher. I retired from DuPont as a draftsman and in 1981 we got our first CAD machine and I never went back on the board again. I had to dig deep in my memory to come up with the method.. Glad you found a way to do and it worked out for you. Great thread by the way, I am following it closely. V |
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Almost ready for paint.
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DIY Annealing Machine (Page 5 of 17)
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