User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
CO, USA
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Posted: 2/11/2018 2:01:04 PM EDT
[#1]
Thanks blowout, got the new motor and adaptor.
Its 5,16, so i need to make a step washer for all my pans and spacers are half inch holes. Will post if this cures the heat problem slowing down the old motor. Will add a counter for giggles! Thanks |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/17/2018 2:27:02 PM EDT
[#2]
Giggles is about the accuracy of the counter... I find I'm manipulating cases enough to use the counter as just an estimate of cases annealed.
Had to clear enough metal around the sensor to improve the signal. If your using a wood case you should not have this issue. IIRC the sensor I used has a 4mm sensing zone. There are others with a larger zones if needed. |
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AUS
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Posted: 2/17/2018 6:48:38 PM EDT
[#3]
Can’t say I have had the same issue with motor slowing down. But I have a 40mm fan drawing in cool air one side of the box to the and the fan withdrawing the air from case.
Also noticed a lot of builds with the stopper in direct contact with the flame and or the main drums being hit by the flame. The case had a taper to it for dealing with rimmed cases and tapered cases to stop the trying to fall out the hopper also to keep the case to hug the wall and into the main drum. Thus keeping the case in same position. The original idea was to build one with off the shelf parts that any joe blow could put Together. You done need a auto feed and this stops a few issues one could encounter. You could build a annealing machine as low as $20-30 if you brought parts new for a manual feed. To as expensive as you want and as complex as you want. There have been many changes a or improvements on the original since late 2013. I’m amazed how far this has come. As it’s DIY you can make it how you like, with that comes with its own issues especially when moving away from the original form. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/10/2018 11:57:02 AM EDT
[#4]
I just found this site and am glad I did! I'm in the process of planning out and finishing up my parts to build my annealer. I have to say that I got some great ideas from this topic. I did try to make a PSU from a PC supply but it didn't go well. I would have liked to have outputs for the 12V, 5V, & 3.3 but the heck with it. I'm just going to use an eBay PSU.
I'm an old guy and retired now (2 years for medical reasons) I was a CNC Machinist for 18 years at my last job and have auto and home electrical experience (no expert by any means but no dummy either. Anyway; If I have questions I'll attempt to get some help here. Thanks for the posts and the ideas. Striker1965 |
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Posted: 9/10/2018 3:10:35 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Striker1954:
I just found this site and am glad I did! I'm in the process of planning out and finishing up my parts to build my annealer. I have to say that I got some great ideas from this topic. I did try to make a PSU from a PC supply but it didn't go well. I would have liked to have outputs for the 12V, 5V, & 3.3 but the heck with it. I'm just going to use an eBay PSU. I'm an old guy and retired now (2 years for medical reasons) I was a CNC Machinist for 18 years at my last job and have auto and home electrical experience (no expert by any means but no dummy either. Anyway; If I have questions I'll attempt to get some help here. Thanks for the posts and the ideas. Striker1965 
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 12/9/2018 10:39:40 PM EDT
[#6]
I know that this thread is ancient buy can I use this motor with the PWM controllers that all of you are using? I have limited space in the enclosure that I am using.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Torque-12V-DC-30rpm-DC-Worm-Geared-Motor-With-Gear-Reducer-Turbo-Motor-KP/273481339846?hash=item3facc213c6:g:1wEAAOSw6utbq4Od:rk:10:pf:0 |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/22/2018 5:18:52 AM EDT
[#7]
That looks like it should work. It does cost about 2x more than buying straight from a seller in Asia. What controller were you going to use?
I've used these together: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-6-30V-12V-24V-Max-8A-Motor-PWM-Speed-Controller-CCM5D-Digital-Display-Switch/112659877174?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=413115641368&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-30rpm-GW370-Reduction-Motor-Worm-Reversible-High-Torque-Turbo-Geared/372467753614?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 |
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Posted: 12/23/2018 12:40:20 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By czebin:
I know that this thread is ancient buy can I use this motor with the PWM controllers that all of you are using? I have limited space in the enclosure that I am using. https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Torque-12V-DC-30rpm-DC-Worm-Geared-Motor-With-Gear-Reducer-Turbo-Motor-KP/273481339846?hash=item3facc213c6:g:1wEAAOSw6utbq4Od:rk:10:pf:0 Welcome to Arfcom and the Reloading Forum. 
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NC, USA
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Posted: 12/30/2018 8:13:28 PM EDT
[#9]
Why is there a momentary switch connected to the counter?
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Posted: 12/31/2018 2:15:12 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cwardpfd:
Why is there a momentary switch connected to the counter? You would have to quote the post you are referring to |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/31/2018 4:16:34 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cwardpfd:
Why is there a momentary switch connected to the counter? |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/5/2019 2:38:18 AM EDT
[#12]
What an awesome thread! I've got a bunch of parts on the way. So just to confirm, if you're using the proxi sensor, you only need 1 controller? I saw a build that had 2 controllers with a sensor and others are saying you only need one. TIA!
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/5/2019 6:30:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dtran333]
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RibSpreader:
Thanks to all who've contributed to this thread. My shameless copy is about ready for a real run. My only original ideas here were using some random plumbing fittings I had to mock up the torch holder and shell support. A 1/2 x 1-1/2 brass nipple jammed into a ~5/8 hole at top left with a 1/2"FIP x 1/4 od compression fitting screwed to it to hold the 1/4" aluminum rod. Makes it a snap to adjust or remove. I went a little nuts with the length of the shell holder, but I wanted it to act like a heat sink and it seems to be working well. For the torch holder, I have a 3/8 floor plate attached to a split ring hanger made for 1/2" copper. It's way too loose so I sort of shimmed it up with some thin metal plumber's tape for now. Seems to work fine so it may stay this way. I hacked a u-bolt I had laying around to get me the 2" of threaded rod needed to connect the two pieces. Keeps tension while allowing for easy minor adjustments to the flame angle. http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag126/RibSpreader556/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfv2oi9rn.jpeg |
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Posted: 1/6/2019 12:21:22 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dtran333:
What an awesome thread! I've got a bunch of parts on the way. So just to confirm, if you're using the proxi sensor, you only need 1 controller? I saw a build that had 2 controllers with a sensor and others are saying you only need one. TIA!
I didn't build one of these, so have no answers. But good luck on your build. |
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Posted: 1/6/2019 12:32:02 AM EDT
[#15]
I would be interested in an autoloading from bin, DIY induction annealer. I had done flame annealing for years but after using an induction annealer, the flame ones just don't hold the same interest for me.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/6/2019 3:03:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dtran333:
What an awesome thread! I've got a bunch of parts on the way. So just to confirm, if you're using the proxi sensor, you only need 1 controller? I saw a build that had 2 controllers with a sensor and others are saying you only need one. TIA! If you have just one case size you might get away without a second controller. I'm using this machine for 223, 300blk, 7.62x39, 6.8, 308, 30-06 and 44 mag so far. The cost of a controller/display is relatively cheap. |
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Posted: 1/6/2019 11:35:59 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: I run a second controller for the feeder drum for a couple reasons... sometimes the case will slip by the proxy switch and adjusting the speed helps in reducing misses. The other reason is on case pickup from the hopper. Too fast will sometimes skip all the cases during a pass with some calibers and adjusting the speed helps. If you have just one case size you might get away without a second controller. I'm using this machine for 223, 300blk, 7.62x39, 6.8, 308, 30-06 and 44 mag so far. The cost of a controller/display is relatively cheap. I run a second controller for the same reasons |
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Posted: 1/6/2019 6:22:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dtran333: @RibSpreader Would you mind showing a close up of the hardware and how you mounted the shell stopper rod? I tried looking up some of the parts you mentioned on Home Depot and only the brass nipple came up. The pieces I used were based primarily on what I had laying around. You can make up a different combo but the combination of the 1/4” threaded rod and the brass fitting having a 1/4” od compression side is what worked for me. Here’s a top view. Threaded rod running all the way through. The 1/2” female x 1/4 compression fitting is all on the outside (right) here. Can’t see the brass nipple screwed into the left side of the fitting, but it runs through the wood frame, covered up on the left with a 1/2” screwed coupling that tightens it down.  Attached FileHere’s a similar fitting except the left side is 3/8” male pipe threads rather than the 1/2” female version I used. I took apart the compression side on the right so you know kind of what to look for.  Attached FileHope this helps you. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/7/2019 5:27:34 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Welcome to the Reloading Forum and Arfcom.
I didn't build one of these, so have no answers. But good luck on your build. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/7/2019 5:29:40 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: I run a second controller for the feeder drum for a couple reasons... sometimes the case will slip by the proxy switch and adjusting the speed helps in reducing misses. The other reason is on case pickup from the hopper. Too fast will sometimes skip all the cases during a pass with some calibers and adjusting the speed helps. If you have just one case size you might get away without a second controller. I'm using this machine for 223, 300blk, 7.62x39, 6.8, 308, 30-06 and 44 mag so far. The cost of a controller/display is relatively cheap. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/7/2019 5:31:25 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RibSpreader: @dtran333 The pieces I used were based primarily on what I had laying around. You can make up a different combo but the combination of the 1/4” threaded rod and the brass fitting having a 1/4” od compression side is what worked for me. Here’s a top view. Threaded rod running all the way through. The 1/2” female x 1/4 compression fitting is all on the outside (right) here. Can’t see the brass nipple screwed into the left side of the fitting, but it runs through the wood frame, covered up on the left with a 1/2” screwed coupling that tightens it down. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/331915/D72FFE35-AB4F-4786-A439-EEEB13CF8A1A_jpeg-798535.JPG Here’s a similar fitting except the left side is 3/8” male pipe threads rather than the 1/2” female version I used. I took apart the compression side on the right so you know kind of what to look for. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/331915/BA89C325-B0F3-4625-A5CE-416DC9E4AA39_jpeg-798542.JPG Hope this helps you. |
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Posted: 1/7/2019 12:24:12 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dtran333: @RibSpreader Would you mind showing a close up of the hardware and how you mounted the shell stopper rod? I tried looking up some of the parts you mentioned on Home Depot and only the brass nipple came up.  Attached File |
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Posted: 1/7/2019 4:01:16 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Genin:
I would be interested in an autoloading from bin, DIY induction annealer. I had done flame annealing for years but after using an induction annealer, the flame ones just don't hold the same interest for me. The induction heater needs to be able to bring the anneal zone up to temp fast so that the heat does not have time to affect the lower case web and head. Tuning for 223 is one thing - switching to 30-30 is a major adjustment, or in my situation 458 SOCOM necks. Coil diameter verses work diameter changes things in addition to anneal length from case mouth. Ideally the unit should be able to process say 32 S&W to 50 BMG, but even swapping out feeder parts that might not be realistic. |
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USA
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Posted: 1/24/2019 5:18:22 AM EDT
[#24]
Great thread and great input. A little late to the game, but building an annealer.
Have question on the proximity probe: Can one probe be wired to operate the motor and the counter? If yes, what is the best way to wire to ensure everything works properly? I have 3000 223 rounds and 400 6.5 creedmoor to anneal. Thanks for help in advance. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/25/2019 4:16:37 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rocnwilly:
Great thread and great input. A little late to the game, but building an annealer. Have question on the proximity probe: Can one probe be wired to operate the motor and the counter? If yes, what is the best way to wire to ensure everything works properly? I have 3000 223 rounds and 400 6.5 creedmoor to anneal. Thanks for help in advance. I suspect a NC NPN proximity sensor could work. Its what I used for both the counter and motor on my machine. My guess would be to connect the black wire from the sensor to both the digital counter (yellow wire) and the negative on the case feed motor (black wire). I haven't tried this so can't say for sure if this will work or not. The sensor will open the negative connection on both devices when a case comes in close proximity. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/28/2019 8:49:41 PM EDT
[#26]
Wanted to drop off some thanks for the help :) I started this a few months back and would get sidetracked here and there, eventually just got around to reloading once fired brass because I was taking so long on this. It definitely didn't take 6 hours like I thought it would :D I'd like to come up with something to attach the bottle on the side (I've got a cache of camp stove bottles) or maybe not. I need a back panel, something to tuck the hose into in the back. The bread pans worked pretty well for catching brass and are easily formed around the ledge below the drum, but at some point I'll weld up a little aluminum catch pan. Finally, I need to tear it all apart and put a little polyurethane on the wood.
Video 
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Posted: 1/28/2019 9:33:29 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imadamb:
Wanted to drop off some thanks for the help :) I started this a few months back and would get sidetracked here and there, eventually just got around to reloading once fired brass because I was taking so long on this. It definitely didn't take 6 hours like I thought it would :D I'd like to come up with something to attach the bottle on the side (I've got a cache of camp stove bottles) or maybe not. I need a back panel, something to tuck the hose into in the back. The bread pans worked pretty well for catching brass and are easily formed around the ledge below the drum, but at some point I'll weld up a little aluminum catch pan. Finally, I need to tear it all apart and put a little polyurethane on the wood. Video https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/om2ucGN-YU2jvNwmIeco3yvTbFzoYbo1Xc3j10wpXdwYJ24toJivd6Z5EzH0iV4C4JFfqqc-bl6bwggqKYQL5yIeeOb62IyJSWXJC5QUgi4ACkWpW7M0JvWIwaYZZ5U3asamyaQzlZ-bTfSOHhdI-eD3NPxfozPUTH391_D676F1fnKCXFeI8XXVoHj11HGrr0MujfJZN3Aa0jrf0fINJp4FEScyyFfkKqi4kALOvKrYt6kDoxGxBElQXmk_4-aqxyja32nAshd7GWV-4qHt1U4CXt6V6LAWcOSf4CDSMwOjd_ABTNyWg1slU7Iw5NKhVhEKSE4KnOdhD1C8fmZcbtnQ7zTnmAYrx8kT4zY6lQkH7-ZlsuQ3X-ZV43R83Q__sBrSRrIgpoEYe3NHBq2ESo187zDQUCja5WJlH4TcjSr8as3WgkSBhX0H2Hyt4ni1-BCV2MF6HpUTcp109HMqxf1XYsXfNSU8VtQ3r0D-xFhvM0ir6qb7CJj-pwffuLRji0cBqZSp2O4zpOCQHXF-ulYcAkk_IpTJ9QHA2C6Njzua6ssaJqg5ReGERzrfdfuUys-JMSbSe0OyiJ_ZzIYtnQXlkyF0flGri90D7qxN4U1XKqH7PThlMCMRlTIklqJsBCdIrHOZHOZ2ilu3bLF5jQjp=w720-h960-no |
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Posted: 1/28/2019 10:55:54 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imadamb:
Wanted to drop off some thanks for the help :) I started this a few months back and would get sidetracked here and there, eventually just got around to reloading once fired brass because I was taking so long on this. It definitely didn't take 6 hours like I thought it would :D I'd like to come up with something to attach the bottle on the side (I've got a cache of camp stove bottles) or maybe not. I need a back panel, something to tuck the hose into in the back. The bread pans worked pretty well for catching brass and are easily formed around the ledge below the drum, but at some point I'll weld up a little aluminum catch pan. Finally, I need to tear it all apart and put a little polyurethane on the wood. Video https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/om2ucGN-YU2jvNwmIeco3yvTbFzoYbo1Xc3j10wpXdwYJ24toJivd6Z5EzH0iV4C4JFfqqc-bl6bwggqKYQL5yIeeOb62IyJSWXJC5QUgi4ACkWpW7M0JvWIwaYZZ5U3asamyaQzlZ-bTfSOHhdI-eD3NPxfozPUTH391_D676F1fnKCXFeI8XXVoHj11HGrr0MujfJZN3Aa0jrf0fINJp4FEScyyFfkKqi4kALOvKrYt6kDoxGxBElQXmk_4-aqxyja32nAshd7GWV-4qHt1U4CXt6V6LAWcOSf4CDSMwOjd_ABTNyWg1slU7Iw5NKhVhEKSE4KnOdhD1C8fmZcbtnQ7zTnmAYrx8kT4zY6lQkH7-ZlsuQ3X-ZV43R83Q__sBrSRrIgpoEYe3NHBq2ESo187zDQUCja5WJlH4TcjSr8as3WgkSBhX0H2Hyt4ni1-BCV2MF6HpUTcp109HMqxf1XYsXfNSU8VtQ3r0D-xFhvM0ir6qb7CJj-pwffuLRji0cBqZSp2O4zpOCQHXF-ulYcAkk_IpTJ9QHA2C6Njzua6ssaJqg5ReGERzrfdfuUys-JMSbSe0OyiJ_ZzIYtnQXlkyF0flGri90D7qxN4U1XKqH7PThlMCMRlTIklqJsBCdIrHOZHOZ2ilu3bLF5jQjp=w720-h960-no  Another DIY Brass Annealer Welcome to Arfcom and the Reloading Forum. First post freeby.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/29/2019 1:41:49 PM EDT
[#29]
aha, appreciated. I did forget to offer some advice to other folk just jumping in here...just read the whole danged thread would ya? There's nothing you can ask that's not in here. Sure enough as you go through the build things will come up, but with some critical thinking and comparing the given builds, you can figure it out. Some parts of the process are more frustrating than others, but the blueprints in Skip's PDF are pretty solid, and the techniques shown in this thread are solid. The wiring is here, just make sure you order the correct part number. I complicated the process by trying to make it pretty. I made the pickup wheel out of 2" delrin rod I just happened to have around. Sliced off a section with a table saw, drilled out the recess with a HF forstner bit, though a friend suggested I 3D print a replacement for .223 cases which I think I'll have a go at. This really is about as simple as you can get for the automated process, the parts are all proven to work and the little components that have been sourced such as the prop adapter, the mounts for the torch holder and the case holder rod, brilliant! If you still can't afford everything at once, just get started on the case and buy parts here and there as you need them. Whatever, just give it a go, it's fun, and you'll be psyched when you're done :)
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Posted: 1/29/2019 2:35:03 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imadamb:
aha, appreciated. I did forget to offer some advice to other folk just jumping in here...just read the whole danged thread would ya? There's nothing you can ask that's not in here. Sure enough as you go through the build things will come up, but with some critical thinking and comparing the given builds, you can figure it out. Some parts of the process are more frustrating than others, but the blueprints in Skip's PDF are pretty solid, and the techniques shown in this thread are solid. The wiring is here, just make sure you order the correct part number. I complicated the process by trying to make it pretty. I made the pickup wheel out of 2" delrin rod I just happened to have around. Sliced off a section with a table saw, drilled out the recess with a HF forstner bit, though a friend suggested I 3D print a replacement for .223 cases which I think I'll have a go at. This really is about as simple as you can get for the automated process, the parts are all proven to work and the little components that have been sourced such as the prop adapter, the mounts for the torch holder and the case holder rod, brilliant! If you still can't afford everything at once, just get started on the case and buy parts here and there as you need them. Whatever, just give it a go, it's fun, and you'll be psyched when you're done :) |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/29/2019 5:39:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By imadamb:
Wanted to drop off some thanks for the help :) I started this a few months back and would get sidetracked here and there, eventually just got around to reloading once fired brass because I was taking so long on this. It definitely didn't take 6 hours like I thought it would :D I'd like to come up with something to attach the bottle on the side (I've got a cache of camp stove bottles) or maybe not. I need a back panel, something to tuck the hose into in the back. The bread pans worked pretty well for catching brass and are easily formed around the ledge below the drum, but at some point I'll weld up a little aluminum catch pan. Finally, I need to tear it all apart and put a little polyurethane on the wood. Video https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/om2ucGN-YU2jvNwmIeco3yvTbFzoYbo1Xc3j10wpXdwYJ24toJivd6Z5EzH0iV4C4JFfqqc-bl6bwggqKYQL5yIeeOb62IyJSWXJC5QUgi4ACkWpW7M0JvWIwaYZZ5U3asamyaQzlZ-bTfSOHhdI-eD3NPxfozPUTH391_D676F1fnKCXFeI8XXVoHj11HGrr0MujfJZN3Aa0jrf0fINJp4FEScyyFfkKqi4kALOvKrYt6kDoxGxBElQXmk_4-aqxyja32nAshd7GWV-4qHt1U4CXt6V6LAWcOSf4CDSMwOjd_ABTNyWg1slU7Iw5NKhVhEKSE4KnOdhD1C8fmZcbtnQ7zTnmAYrx8kT4zY6lQkH7-ZlsuQ3X-ZV43R83Q__sBrSRrIgpoEYe3NHBq2ESo187zDQUCja5WJlH4TcjSr8as3WgkSBhX0H2Hyt4ni1-BCV2MF6HpUTcp109HMqxf1XYsXfNSU8VtQ3r0D-xFhvM0ir6qb7CJj-pwffuLRji0cBqZSp2O4zpOCQHXF-ulYcAkk_IpTJ9QHA2C6Njzua6ssaJqg5ReGERzrfdfuUys-JMSbSe0OyiJ_ZzIYtnQXlkyF0flGri90D7qxN4U1XKqH7PThlMCMRlTIklqJsBCdIrHOZHOZ2ilu3bLF5jQjp=w720-h960-no The deflector is held to the face of the machine with a single screw. Made an oversized hole in the deflector for the holding screw to allow for adjustment. 
I use a 4ft hose from the torch to the bottle. I go back and forth between bottles and a tank. Still need to add a regulator, but haven't sourced the right one yet. Edit: Just found and ordered a regulator with pressure gauge and a conversion fitting. Hopefully it stabilizes the flame intensity. I'll report back with the results. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/29/2019 8:36:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: imadamb]
[#32]
oh DANG, the deflector is an amazing modification! Thanks for sharing that, I recognize the annealer but hadn't caught the deflector before. Super clever!
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Posted: 1/29/2019 10:31:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Currently]
[#33]
A word of warning to those that want to use propane tanks.
Tanks vent when the pressure inside reaches a limit. A cold propane tank carried inside will start warming up and propane will vent out as the pressure inside increases. Once that magic fuel/air ratio is reached, all it takes is a spark. This is why fire marshalls forbid bringing a tank into a store when exchanging them. ====================================================================== I’ve been through this thread twice and looked for Skip’s pdf for the motor layout dimensions. Can some kind soul please tell me what page it is on? (Or link it in their response.) TIA |
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Posted: 2/19/2019 10:56:26 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Currently:
I’ve been through this thread twice and looked for Skip’s pdf for the motor layout dimensions. Can some kind soul please tell me what page it is on? (Or link it in their response.) TIA Thanks |
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Posted: 2/20/2019 2:03:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: RLR350]
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hdbint: Same, I'm not seeing the PDF. A link would be greatly appreciated. Thanks @hdbint On page 3 about half way down I drew the face and motor placement. Here is Skip’s link, I think. I just looked it up, never saw it before. Skip’s google doc |
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Posted: 2/20/2019 10:07:17 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RLR350: @Currently @hdbint On page 3 about half way down I drew the face and motor placement. Here is Skip’s link, I think. I just looked it up, never saw it before. Skip’s google doc |
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Posted: 2/20/2019 11:16:52 PM EDT
[#37]
Awesome!
Thank you very much! |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/27/2019 8:27:44 PM EDT
[#38]
Finished mine yesterday (actually this is revision 3) and it satisfies all of my requirements. It's beaucoup better than spinning cases in a socket and a lot faster too. Here's a demo with some junk brass.
 Annealer Demo |
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Posted: 3/27/2019 9:24:57 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CapnCrusty:
Finished mine yesterday (actually this is revision 3) and it satisfies all of my requirements. It's beaucoup better than spinning cases in a socket and a lot faster too. Here's a demo with some junk brass.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jP8JArYh8zsAre they on separate motors? Can it process brass several different calibers with those drums? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/27/2019 10:47:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: CapnCrusty]
[#40]
Nope they're driven by the same motor, a rotisserie motor. They're all coupled using an XL timing belt (which maintains the synchronization) and the pulley gearing was chosen to make the rotors rotate once in six seconds (10 rpm from the motor's 6 rpm). The annealing time is set by the angular difference between the two slots - each rotor is coupled to it's shaft with set screws so it's an easy change. Two clock hours difference between the slots equals 1 second of annealing time so I can change the timing by a half second by eye. I only reload one caliber so it's all sized for that caliber but a similar case size might work - the hopper cutouts are probably the limiting factors.
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Posted: 7/8/2019 9:15:49 PM EDT
[#41]
This is still probably one of the most handy shooting related DIY projects I've done to date. I loaded 25 rounds each of annealed and non-annealed Hornady 6.5CM brass and ran ten rounds of each through the chronograph last weekend. The SD for the annealed brass was right around half of the non-annealed brass. Not a conclusive test by any means, but I'll do another couple groups of 10 and see if the results are the same.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/12/2019 7:33:47 PM EDT
[#42]
Be interested to find out if those results were repeatable.
I'm annealing all rifle brass for every loading because its so fast and easy with a machine now. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/2/2020 3:30:04 AM EDT
[#43]
Just got around to trying a regulated gas hose to get a more consistent flame. Bought 0-20 psi regulator off eBay for around $20.
Had to remove the inner filter in the torch head because no gas was getting through to the tip. Once the filter was removed the gas flowed to the tip. If I were to do it again, I'd get a 30psi regulator to increase the flame output though.   Used 750F Tempilac on the inside of the case mouth to set the burn time and it was the same setting I used without the regulator. Flame is much more consistent now. |
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Posted: 4/18/2021 1:52:46 PM EDT
[#44]
Resurrecting this thread with an addition of:
Annealing 44 mag cases. The pan is cut 3/4" deep. Also works with 300blk. The face of the machine needs to have enough angle to it to keep cases in the pan. Note tempilaq on inside of case mouth disappears when temperature of 750F is reached.  April 18, 2021 |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 4/18/2021 4:03:15 PM EDT
[#45]
@blowout
I’m getting a YouTube error message, says the video is set to private. |
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Posted: 4/18/2021 11:40:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MarkBinSC: @blowout I’m getting a YouTube error message, says the video is set to private. Thanks, it should be fixed now! |
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Posted: 5/29/2021 8:43:39 PM EDT
[#47]
Took me a month of weekend work to get this going. Completely redid it once.
  It will do 300 Blackout to 300 Win Mag. I have two pans and two feed drums for it. So far it’s working very well. Thanks to everyone in this thread as I drew heavily from it. Since the pans are delicate, I built storage for them in the cabinet along with pegs for the feed drums. |
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Posted: 5/30/2021 2:44:52 AM EDT
[#48]
Looks great! I like the pan storage.
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Posted: 5/30/2021 8:24:25 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: Looks great! I like the pan storage. Thank you |
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Posted: 5/31/2021 9:41:46 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Geof_s: Took me a month of weekend work to get this going. Completely redid it once. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/88016/EBFA8E8D-1FA6-478D-B98A-6AD227DA398F-1960160.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/88016/5D1BE2D2-50D1-4906-AFF8-44DC0CAC7467-1960161.jpg It will do 300 Blackout to 300 Win Mag. I have two pans and two feed drums for it. So far it’s working very well. Thanks to everyone in this thread as I drew heavily from it. Since the pans are delicate, I built storage for them in the cabinet along with pegs for the feed drums. I used these motors. |
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