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Posted: 12/8/2011 9:11:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MaxxII]
I’ve seen countless threads here where someone asks how to install the SRT Trigger in a Sig Classic Series Pistol, or why their Sig might be doing this or that. I’ve always found it easier to understand things when I could follow along with a series of pictures or drawings. Hopefully you will too.
Before I get started : I am not a gunsmith, super genius, nor have I ever been a Space Shuttle Door Gunner. I’m a police officer who attended the Sig Pistol Armorer’s Course and really enjoyed it. I enjoy shooting and thought I’d share some knowledge that be useful to others as well. Therefore, if you screw things up, somehow break your pistol, lose parts, or shoot your eye out….I’m not responsible. If you have any questions regarding how to do this, or are unsure about anything covered here….I’ll try to answer questions as best as I can, but if in doubt, call Sig at 1-603-772-2302. Sig also sell a DVD on how to disassemble and reassemble the Classic Series Pistols… You can find it here Interactive Armorer CD, Classic Series http://www.sigsauer.com/SigStore/interactive-armorer-cd-classic-series-295.aspx ETA- 09-28-2013 I just found some youtube videos of the disassembly/reassembly of the Sig Classic series pistols. Since my pics aren't the greatest, I think a video would help in seeing what is being done: Some of these photo’s flat out suck. I’m not a photographer. I was working with a point and shoot camera and trying to disassemble/reassemble the gun while taking pictures with a point shoot camera with a fussy auto focus…sorry for any headaches caused by blurry photo’s. Okay, I’m going to start with the disassembly/reassembly of the lower receiver first. I will add the upper later. First, unload and clear your pistol. After you’ve done that, remove the slide from the lower receiver. You will need a Sig Armorer’s tool (http://www.sigsauer.com/SigStore/sig-sauer-armorers-tool-94.aspx $34.95 from Sig, available at Brownells for less), and two punches. The Sig Armorer’s tool is just a multi screw driver with 4 different tips, most of the time you’ll only be using 3 of the four. You can get by without the Sig Armorer’s Tool, but its much easier and probably safer as well to do this with it. You will also need a 1.5 mm pin punch and 3mm punch. Using the Flat Tip screw driver portion of the SAT (Sig Armorer’s Tool), remove the grip screws. Some later model guns have torx head screws. Next remove the Takedown Lever by pushing it to the left while rotating it in a circle. |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#3]
Thanks, I just poked my eye out! No, seriously, thanks for doing the rest of the breakdown. I have an old W. German 220 that has never been cleaned up. It has to be scrungy in there.
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The debil has an icon!
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[#19]
Place holder
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[Last Edit: MaxxII]
[#20]
Maintenance and Parts Replacement Schedule
Detailed Disassembly and inspection should be done every three years or every 5000 rounds. Whichever comes first. Barrel...........................................................................................If the pistol exhibits keyholing or unacceptable accuracy. Recoil Spring.............................................................................3 years or 5000 rounds, whichever comes first. Extractor Spring..........................................................................20000 rounds Extractor.......................................................................................20000 rounds Firing Pin......................................................................................20000 rounds Firing Pin Spring.........................................................................20000 rounds Firing Pin Safety Lock Spring....................................................20000 rounds Takedown Lever...........................................................................20000 rounds Slide Catch Lever Spring............................................................10000 rounds Trigger Bar Spring.........................................................................10000 rounds Decocking Lever Spring................................................................10000 rounds Magazine Spring.............................................................................When Magazine fails to lock the slide back. |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#21]
Originally Posted By Intune69:
Thanks, I just poked my eye out! No, seriously, thanks for doing the rest of the breakdown. I have an old W. German 220 that has never been cleaned up. It has to be scrungy in there. Depending on how much you've shot it, you're going to be HORRIFIED at what you find when you disassemble the gun. I would also add that if you have an older gun with the Metal Mainspring Seat, I would Highly reccomend getting the Sig Armorer's Tool, (SAT). Trying to remove the Seat without the goofy H shaped bit is a damn nightmare otherwise. |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#22]
Great instructions. Definitely needs to be tacked.
I'd also include that the Hammer Reset Spring needs to be removed for a DAK installation with a 1/16'' punch. |
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[#23]
Good catch, thank you.
My Department doesnt use the DAK trigger system and consequently, I havent played with one since attending the Armorer's Course. My Dad has a 229 DAK, but I never really play with it much. When I get some time and a chance to tear his apart, I'll post up comparison pictures of the DAK, and the DA/SA Classic Pistols. Unless you've got one and feel like doing it? Regardless, I appreciate the feedback Rightwing87. |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#24]
Originally Posted By MaxxII:
snip This is what you’re left with: http://www.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=35463 http://www.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=35462 The only reason you would need to remove these two parts if they break. If you are converting your pistol (manufactured after 2005) to a DAK trigger you will need to remove the Trigger Reset Spring with a 1/16th pin punch. You will also be replacing the Hammer, Hammer Strut, Sear, Sear Spring, Safety Lever, and Trigger Bar. The Decocking Lever Assembly, (Decocking Lever, Bearing, and Spring) will be removed. Needs to be "Hammer Reset Spring" I'd maybe change the wording to "remove the Hammer Stop by removing the Hammer Stop Pin with a 1/16" punch and take out the Hammer Reset Spring. Then reinstall the Hammer Stop and Hammer Stop Pin." |
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[#25]
Thank you! Hate it when I goof up terms like that.
Fixed the screw up and changed the wording on the original post to what you suggested. It read better and made more sense. |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#26]
As requested by OP, I saved the thread to PDF. It isn't cleaned up or anything, just a print to PDF and if someone wants to host it more permanently, by all means!
http://www.multiupload.com/POKC9QH640 |
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[#27]
Originally Posted By JSteensen:
As requested by OP, I saved the thread to PDF. It isn't cleaned up or anything, just a print to PDF and if someone wants to host it more permanently, by all means! http://www.multiupload.com/POKC9QH640 AWESOME!!! Thank you! |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#28]
Anytime. Needed to do something to celebrate me picking up my first Sig tomorrow. West German P226 I traded for. I see your manual being very useful to me for the tear down and inspection.
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[#29]
Hope it helps.
I'd love to be able to scan & post the Sig Armorer's Manual but that's verboten by Sig without permission... Hence this thread.... |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#30]
Quick question on the slide, what holds in the extractor to the breech block? Im disassembling my 228 for US Anodizing to do their Navy package to it and that is the last thing before I box it up, is there any trick to getting it out or does it pretty much just pop out?
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"The essence of Government is power; and power, lodged as it must be in human hands, will ever be liable to abuse." --James Madison
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[#31]
The extractor pops right when "pried" out.
Take a small flat bladed screwdriver, hold it so the blade is vertical and gently slide it into the narrow space between the slide and the extractor. There is a spring and a small rod behind it that you will need to hang on to. Put them in a small ziploc baggie and label them so you dont lose them. I should be able to take apart an upper and upload photo's here in the next couple of day so you can see how to put them together. Hope that helps. |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#32]
The disassembly/reassembly of the slide has been added to the first page of this thread.
As before, please feel free to point out any errors/mistakes, or improper terminology used in the posts so that they can be corrected. And again, feel free to download and save the images in anyway useful to you. This is meant as a resource to be used by any and all. If you want to download it and turn it into a PDF file, please do so. |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#33]
Successfully completed spring replacement on my beloved 228 using this guide but have a question.My 228 is a stamped slide internal extractor.I need to replace the double roll pins as their WAY overdue.Iv'e read that the larger roll pin goes with the slit up and the smaller one goes slit down but that is all iv'e found.Can I just knock the old ones out and put the new ones in without any disassembly?
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When young men seek to be like you,when lazy men resent you,when powerful men look over their shoulder at you,when cowardly men plot behind your back,when corrupt men wish you were gone and evil men want you dead... only then will you have done your share
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[#34]
Originally Posted By MadBodhi:
Successfully completed spring replacement on my beloved 228 using this guide but have a question.My 228 is a stamped slide internal extractor.I need to replace the double roll pins as their WAY overdue.Iv'e read that the larger roll pin goes with the slit up and the smaller one goes slit down but that is all iv'e found.Can I just knock the old ones out and put the new ones in without any disassembly? Can you post a picture of it so that I can see it clearly? I wasnt trained on the older models, we used the newer versions in the class. I would assume, (not having seen it to be sure) that you could knock one loose, replace it, and then do the same with the other. Hopefully, someone with experiance on the older models can answer. Have you called Sig and asked them? |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#35]
Originally Posted By MaxxII:
Originally Posted By MadBodhi:
Successfully completed spring replacement on my beloved 228 using this guide but have a question.My 228 is a stamped slide internal extractor.I need to replace the double roll pins as their WAY overdue.Iv'e read that the larger roll pin goes with the slit up and the smaller one goes slit down but that is all iv'e found.Can I just knock the old ones out and put the new ones in without any disassembly? Can you post a picture of it so that I can see it clearly? I wasnt trained on the older models, we used the newer versions in the class. I would assume, (not having seen it to be sure) that you could knock one loose, replace it, and then do the same with the other. Hopefully, someone with experiance on the older models can answer. Have you called Sig and asked them? All you are doing is running the roll pins through the slide and breechblock. Use your 1/8" punch to hold the slide and breechblock together as the breechblock is under spring tension from the firing pin safety. Tap the large rollpin in from the opposite side, then install the small rollpin with the opening 180 degrees from the large rollpin. Easy peasy. |
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"The essence of Government is power; and power, lodged as it must be in human hands, will ever be liable to abuse." --James Madison
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[Last Edit: 762AP]
[#36]
Outstanding post! Thanks much.
Since you posted this thread, I was able to convert my KD coded P220 to non spur hammer. There were a couple "propritary" things regarding the P-220 compared to your post, but overall, it was 99% on the spot. I couldn't have done it without this thread. I and my now "modern" hammer 220 thank you. |
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To ALL my FRIENDS!
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[#37]
Glad it helped. You got an IM.
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#38]
Originally Posted By nf9648:
Originally Posted By MaxxII:
Originally Posted By MadBodhi:
Successfully completed spring replacement on my beloved 228 using this guide but have a question.My 228 is a stamped slide internal extractor.I need to replace the double roll pins as their WAY overdue.Iv'e read that the larger roll pin goes with the slit up and the smaller one goes slit down but that is all iv'e found.Can I just knock the old ones out and put the new ones in without any disassembly? Can you post a picture of it so that I can see it clearly? I wasnt trained on the older models, we used the newer versions in the class. I would assume, (not having seen it to be sure) that you could knock one loose, replace it, and then do the same with the other. Hopefully, someone with experiance on the older models can answer. Have you called Sig and asked them? All you are doing is running the roll pins through the slide and breechblock. Use your 1/8" punch to hold the slide and breechblock together as the breechblock is under spring tension from the firing pin safety. Tap the large rollpin in from the opposite side, then install the small rollpin with the opening 180 degrees from the large rollpin. Easy peasy. Thanks for the reply. Sorry I didnt see this until now. |
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"Chaos, confusion, dispair......my work is done here."
....Some guy named Murphy.... |
[#39]
New here, I have a in depth understanding of the Sig Sauer pistols. Just took a look through on this thread. To add something that I see a lot of people who shouldn't be taking there gun apart do when re-assembling it, that causes the gun to be non-functioning.
When installing the hammer, there is a pressed in bar horizontally in the hammer above the hammer pivot pin holes. You must loop that underneath the hammer reset spring and make sure it stays in that orientation. If you just push the hammer straight in you will damage the hammer reset spring. Also once you have it in the correct position with the hammer pivot pin installed do not push the hammer to far forward or the reset spring will fall beneath that bar and be damaged as you continue re-assembly. This is an obvious sign to look for when someone hands you there gun and the hammer no longer resets, and you ask them did someone take this gun apart, they always say(lying) no. But the only way it can happen is described above. |
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[#40]
Thank you for your time and trouble.
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[#41]
You're welcome.
I hope it helps you or someone else out. |
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Chaos, confusion, despair....my work is done here. Murphy
Did you just realize the closest you'll ever be to becoming a hero is wearing your underwear outside your pants? Madcap72 |
[#42]
Thank you for your help. Several years ago I bought a police trade-in P228 and have wanted to trade the trigger out for the short one. Thanks to your fine photos and help this went well this morning. Only had a bit of trouble with the reinstallation of the locking block, but it went right in when it was ready. Contributions like yours is what makes ar15.com such a world class site.
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[#43]
Thanks!
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Chaos, confusion, despair....my work is done here. Murphy
Did you just realize the closest you'll ever be to becoming a hero is wearing your underwear outside your pants? Madcap72 |
[#44]
Thank you. I just used the thread to assemble a 226 tacops. The note about the hammer strut moving the hammer fixed my initial wrong assembly. Thanks. Also, I thought I missed a part because the SRT safety lever is different than the one in the video I watched the first time.
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[#45]
Glad it helped.
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Chaos, confusion, despair....my work is done here. Murphy
Did you just realize the closest you'll ever be to becoming a hero is wearing your underwear outside your pants? Madcap72 |
[#46]
Thank You! for this thread.
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[Last Edit: MaxxII]
[#47]
You're welcome!
ETA @Corsair Your IM inbox is full. |
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Chaos, confusion, despair....my work is done here. Murphy
Did you just realize the closest you'll ever be to becoming a hero is wearing your underwear outside your pants? Madcap72 |
[#48]
I have a P228 and I took it apart to clean it and now I can’t get the locking insert installed. I did get it back in but the slide would not go back on. There are bird on the feed ramp on the barrel so it is hitting the locking insert is my guess. So I took it back out and am having problems getting it back together. I have checked a few places and they say that the insert is to high and that the trigger pin is not positioned correctly. To be honest I’m at a loss. Any ideas?
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[#49]
The notches in the trigger pin should be facing downwards...check to see how the trigger pin is oriented and rotate as necessary. It might take some fidgeting to get it to finally seat...
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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[#50]
Once I faced them downward the block went right in. But know the slide will not go on. It looks as if the feed ramp on the barrel is hitting the block. I marked where the barrel ends and the block begins and that’s where the slide stops. The take down lever is pointed down.
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