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FIELD STRIPPING THE AR15 (Page 4 of 4)
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Question, is the firing pin retaining pin just a regular cotter pin? I was wondering if maybe it was made out of a harder steel then regular pins.
I had a bit of trouble getting mine back in and bent it a bit. I did get in but was thinking of getting a replacement(s) for the future. |
Being a new member and new to ARs, this thread was very helpful to me. A couple of months ago I bought my first AR. A basic Colt LE6920. Last week I bought A Colt C.A.R. 6940. I really like these rifles. I own several bolt action rifles including a CZ 427 Varmint in .223. I have to admit the ARs are more fun to shoot. 
Chance... |
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Awesome set of photos - thanks for this.
Any reason why you have to ensure that the hammer is cocked? I tend to release mine ASAP to avoid accidentally slamming the lower. Or is this just to make a bit more room for the buffer spring to come out? |
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Why does the bolt have to be extended when assembling? Doesn't it just close (get shorter) when its inserted back into the rifle?
Does the firing pin retainer go above the firing pin? The answer is yes but I watched a video where the guy was explaining that the pin actually went on each side of the firing pin and that confused me. The bolt cam on my gun was hard to turn with fingers. With small pliers it turned easily. What am I doing wrong? After realizing how easy it is to turn that cam, does anyone worry that is can loosen while functioning? Do you clean the barrel? I have a .22 bore snake (that is for .223/5.56) and it was super hard to pull through. I stopped bc I was afraid of it getting stuck or tearing (probably not possible). Do you lube the trigger springs and stuff? After its back together and you cycle it and dry fire are you always sure its GTG? I am OCD and what If I needed my rifle tonight but I cleaned it today and I assume its GTG? Basically, if it cycles and resets, can there be anything wrong? |
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Originally Posted By capcapcapcap:
Why does the bolt have to be extended when assembling? Doesn't it just close (get shorter) when its inserted back into the rifle? Originally Posted By capcapcapcap:
Why does the bolt have to be extended when assembling? Doesn't it just close (get shorter) when its inserted back into the rifle? It places the cam pin in the correct position to ride down the channel into the receiver. The little half moon cutout in the receiver is where the head of the cam pin turns into when the bolt is in the closed and locked position. Does the firing pin retainer go above the firing pin? The answer is yes but I watched a video where the guy was explaining that the pin actually went on each side of the firing pin and that confused me. The pin goes across the firing pin in the little valley at the back of the pin. The bolt cam on my gun was hard to turn with fingers. With small pliers it turned easily. What am I doing wrong? Make sure the bolt is all the way in the closed position (pushed into the carrier/shortened position) After realizing how easy it is to turn that cam, does anyone worry that is can loosen while functioning? The firing pin goes through the cam pin and prevents the cam pin from rotating. Do you clean the barrel? I have a .22 bore snake (that is for .223/5.56) and it was super hard to pull through. I stopped bc I was afraid of it getting stuck or tearing (probably not possible). Yes. I use a .22 rod and jag. Dewey makes a good rod that is the perfect length for 16" barrels. Bore snakes are supposed to be hard to pull through. |
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Do you lube the trigger springs and stuff? You can lightly lube them. After its back together and you cycle it and dry fire are you always sure its GTG? I am OCD and what If I needed my rifle tonight but I cleaned it today and I assume its GTG? Basically, if it cycles and resets, can there be anything wrong? Function check and you are good to go. I usually also check that an empty magazine inserts and falls free easily. Also manually cycle the bolt on an empty magazine to make sure it locks back to check the bolt lock. |
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I'm an old M14 guy...In 68 they took my M14 and handed me an M16. I never fired it! I Fortunately, they gave me a couple of .50s for the door and window! I picked up my first AR today and even though the ammo is "tiny", this is HUGE! I have no need to tear it down, but knowing this is here is perfect. The pictures are also perfect. So many times you get pictures that you look at and say..."what the heck is that?" As a matter of fact, I think, in the spirit of MCRD Parris Island, 1967...I'll tear it down cause I can! Thanks, Y'all!
RE |
| As someone who just purchased their very first AR, this is AMAZING! I have to be honest, I'm really intimidated by the gun. It's one thing to take it to the range and shoot, but it's another to be able to take it apart and know all of the bits and pieces. This has been a great start. If anyone knows of a good book that dives into the anatomy of the gun a bit more, that would be great. Thank you! |
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Here's a very thorough, well done, clearly explained field stripping video with High Def image and sound. I found it very helpful.
AR Field Stripping Video |
| Just used this sticky to clean my Colt 6920 for the first time. Hate to admit it but I had to work really hard to get it back together correctly. I am sure it should have been simpler, I am just the least mechanically inclined person I know. Took way too long, but I really enjoy learning! Thanks, |
| I have a new AR15, and I’m attempting to separate the upper from the lower by pushing the takedown pins, but the takedown pins won’t budge. Is there a recommended way to get the pins loosened? Should I pry them with a screwdriver from the other side? I’d rather not scratch the finish just yet. Maybe use a punch and tap lightly with a hammer? I’m’ a newbie. |
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Originally Posted By Pipper1979: I have a new AR15, and I’m attempting to separate the upper from the lower by pushing the takedown pins, but the takedown pins won’t budge. Is there a recommended way to get the pins loosened? Should I pry them with a screwdriver from the other side? I’d rather not scratch the finish just yet. Maybe use a punch and tap lightly with a hammer? I’m’ a newbie. New ones can be a little stiff. Tap it out. |
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I have a newbie question. I just bought a new AR15. It came fully-assembled from factory. (Didn't build my own. "Beginner", not "dumb".) A friend of mine says these newly assembled AR's ship from factory with a thick factory-goo, which is good for protecting the metal & mechanisms regardless if it shipped to Alaska or Sahara/Kuwait --> that this goo should be CLEANED OFF and lubed before the first range outing. He even said "that's the same you should do to a pistol". Well, I don't remember ever doing that to my Glock pistol 2yrs before his comment. I took the Glock brand new to the range. Only cleaned & lubed after putting 400~500 rounds through it. So my question (coming back to the new AR): - Are factory-new AR's shipped with factory-lube, or with factory-goo? - Is this initial factory-applied stuff suppose to be cleaned off and re-lubed before putting rounds through it? - Can I clean off the factory-goo using spray can of brake cleaner? Or is that too harsh for firearms and will somehow damage mechanisms or coating? - What are folks' thoughts on using synthetic engine oil (0W-20) as a lube for the AR, or for any firearm? I mean, if it's good for >800 F lubing/cooling turbo charger internals, it ought to work for firearms, right? Thank you! |
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Joined:
Dec 2022
Posts:
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EE: 0% (0)
USA
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Originally Posted By CNL390: After 3 1/2 years on this forum this post has given me the information & mostly the the "How To" in a series of very clear, easy to understand photos to disassemble clean and reassemble my bolt carrier group. This to me is the best thing since sliced bread. Now all I need is something this simple on lubing an AR. Same here! |
FIELD STRIPPING THE AR15 (Page 4 of 4)
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