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Posted: 1/23/2006 11:57:36 PM EDT
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Hello guys as you can see from the title I need help removing my stock. This is my first AR thanks you guys here at AR15.COM. The first picture shows what I have. The top screw has a little hole which I think might have something to do with why it does not come off. Not Sure. Do I need a speacial tool or something? I tried to remove the top one and as you can see it started to strip. Another thing, Does anyone know what size allen wrench I need to remove the grip? Your help is appreciated. Thanks Elijah http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y46/LtGuz/218eb781.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y46/LtGuz/3f6bf9b6.jpg |
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the small hole (from what I've been told) is a weep hole for water. All you need is a proper sized screw driver (large) or an armorers wrench. the pistol grip should have a flat tip screw as well. Gene edit to add: the armorers wrench has a large flat tip screw driver bit on the end, that is just the wright size for this. Gene |
| When I applied alot of pressure with a bigger screw driver It did start to budge but it didn't feel right. I got it to move a little bit but when I stopped it went back what it had budged. As for the grip it has a hex head on it. I can clearly see it. I'll get the proper size screw driver and try again. Thanks |
I found the screwdriver tip on my DPMS wrench was too narrow and I went with my big honkin craftsman instead |
I have to admit, even though my armorers wrench does work, it's alot easier to use my extra large flat tip craftsman. Just easier to hold on to and it does fit better too. |
This is true. When I took the A2 stock off of my post-ban Bushy it was covered in red loc-tite. I had to drill the screw out to get the stock off. This may be your problem. Nic |
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In all gunsmithing It is best to use the appropriate Hollow ground screwdriver these have a square profile that give full contact and better bite on the screw slot . Notice the shape of the slot in your stock screw it isnt tapered like the blades of most screwdrivers screwdrivers that are tapered tent to either ramp out of the slot causing marring on the way out. The hole in your stock screw is a vent. A clogged vent can be responsable for short stroking malfunctions. Some screws have a nylon plug in the side to act as a thread locker . Unfortunatley I belive due to the fact that yours is a bushmaster you most probably have red locktite on your stock screw. At least your screw has a vent I once had an olympic arms PCR that had a Phillips head screw no thread locker and no vent. Nowhere near mil spec. Good Luck. |
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First off thanks to all who have replied. Before I would be a little hesitant in messing with this gun. I know I can count you guys with my AR related problems. I know it's just a screw but the fact that it did not want to loosen made me stop and not want to try anymore. I do not want to break or lose something. Thanks Alot Guys twonami, What little springs are you referring to and where are they located? So I can be on the look out for them. Jo_Mama, Bushmaster did the paint job, I was thinking of getting rid of the furniture. I am just waiting on getting enough cash to buy what I want. I'm not sure how much to ask for it. Right now I just want to familiarise myself with my gun. The more I fiddle with it the more I want to build one from "scratch". |
If you remove the grip a small spring holds the detent spring for the safety switch and the buttstock holds back the detent spring for the rear take down pin. It shouldn't do any disappearing acts on you but they can get squished when you reassemble the rifle. |
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BUILD YOUR OWN THREAD this will help answer some of your questions, the Pics will show you the pins and springs they are referring too. |
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