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Cornfire Arsenal? (Now Copperhead Safety vs Corn Gun Works?) (Page 8 of 10)
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Are you using a lever blocker? Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Originally Posted By BTooneUSMMA: Update to my MARC for another data point: ... I then put it in the main rifle I shoot with an SSA. This trigger has somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-15k rounds on it, so I don't know if that has something to do with it, but the trigger functions in semi and FRT, and the trigger pull feels totally normal in semi, and is about 90% as good in FRT. I'm going to leave it with my SSA, and probably see about an ARC fire for my first G2S (which is going in a Lima 6). Are you using a lever blocker? |
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This has probably been addressed in this thread but I didn’t see it: I installed a MARK in a lower today that has all MIL-SPEC parts. 3rd position fails function test as is acting like another semi position. Suggestions for problem solving? Thanks |
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Originally Posted By Curmudgeon762: This has probably been addressed in this thread but I didn’t see it: I installed a MARK in a lower today that has all MIL-SPEC parts. 3rd position fails function test as is acting like another semi position. Suggestions for problem solving? Thanks Definitely using a full auto BCG? |
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Originally Posted By Curmudgeon762: This has probably been addressed in this thread but I didn't see it: I installed a MARK in a lower today that has all MIL-SPEC parts. 3rd position fails function test as is acting like another semi position. Suggestions for problem solving? Thanks Does the rear face of the trigger tail happen to have a U shaped notch? This won't work, The trigger tail must be full square. So far for me, any of the Schmid made mil spec triggers have not only dropped in and passed function they also passed hammer depressed lever binding testing that other unknow maker "mil spec" triggers failed even if they passed function testing. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Definitely using a full auto BCG? Yes but I have a half dozen spares. I’ll swap it out. ETA. Swapped. No difference. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: What make trigger? Mil-spec is not always mil-spec.. Does the rear face of the trigger tail happen to have a U shaped notch? This won't work, The trigger tail must be full square. So far for me, any of the Schmid made mil spec triggers have not only dropped in and passed function they also passed hammer depressed lever binding testing that other unknow maker "mil spec" triggers failed even if they passed function testing. I will look. I have a number of spares. Square back. ETA. Swapped trigger and it passes function test. Thanks! |
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| Got the MARC in the mail yesterday. Installed in my PSA lower with a brand new Schmid Pro Line Trigger Assembly. Safe and semi function check works, but when I move the selector into the third position I can’t get the hammer to drop. Was hoping with this trigger assembly being listed as compatible on Cornfire’s website it would drop in, but does not appear to be the case. |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: Got the MARC in the mail yesterday. Installed in my PSA lower with a brand new Schmid Pro Line Trigger Assembly. Safe and semi function check works, but when I move the selector into the third position I can’t get the hammer to drop. Was hoping with this trigger assembly being listed as compatible on Cornfire’s website it would drop in, but does not appear to be the case. Do you have a full auto profile bolt carrier group? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Do you have a full auto profile bolt carrier group? I am running this in a 22LR dedicated upper I built with CMMG bolt and Bore Buddy trip kit that was working with a HT super safety. The function check is failing with the upper installed and when checking by hand with the upper removed. |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: I am running this in a 22LR dedicated upper I built with CMMG bolt and Bore Buddy trip kit that was working with a HT super safety. The function check is failing with the upper installed and when checking by hand with the upper removed. Originally Posted By Texasag10: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Do you have a full auto profile bolt carrier group? I am running this in a 22LR dedicated upper I built with CMMG bolt and Bore Buddy trip kit that was working with a HT super safety. The function check is failing with the upper installed and when checking by hand with the upper removed. How is your trip kit set? |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: I am running this in a 22LR dedicated upper I built with CMMG bolt and Bore Buddy trip kit that was working with a HT super safety. The function check is failing with the upper installed and when checking by hand with the upper removed. When you say "failing", do you mean the hammer is cocked, but will not release (i.e., remains cocked) when the trigger is pulled with the safety in the third position, even with the upper removed? And you're using this trigger, correct? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: How is your trip kit set? Have it set currently how it came from Bore Buddy which was working with the previous super safety and cut trigger. Only thing I have done so far is remove the cut trigger and other CMMG trigger parts, swap in the Schmidt kit and install the MARC. Hadn’t moved on to trying to adjust the trip kit yet since I can’t get the hammer to drop when manipulating the lever arm and trigger by hand with the upper removed when in FRT mode. |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: I am running this in a 22LR dedicated upper I built with CMMG bolt and Bore Buddy trip kit that was working with a HT super safety. The function check is failing with the upper installed and when checking by hand with the upper removed. If it's failing hand checks, it's likely one of the reasons explained in that video causing it. |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: When you say "failing", do you mean the hammer is cocked, but will not release (i.e., remains cocked) when the trigger is pulled with the safety in the third position, even with the upper removed? And you're using this trigger, correct? That’s correct, hammer is cocked, and will not release when the trigger is pulled in the third position. This is while moving the lever forward to simulate the BCG being in battery. This is the trigger that I am using: Trigger Assembly |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Did you watch the video Lugnutwrench2 posted on page 7 post #44? If it's failing hand checks, it's likely one of the reasons explained in that video causing it. I have not, thanks for the heads up. Will check it out. |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: I have not, thanks for the heads up. Will check it out. To be fair, that video is about a particular problem with the second out-of-spec (too large) diameter on the Atrius. (The Atrius appears to have two: the first is the cam on the lever, the second is on the barrel near the detent recesses.) I have not looked at this in detail, but the Cornfire has a relief cut that should prevent issues related to the second diameter. (You can see the difference in the barrel cuts near the detent recesses in @way 's photo that I re-posted there.) It might be difficult, but I would be curious to see the Cornfire surface your trigger was contacting in the third position. I suspect its the cam surface on the lever. In that case, unless you want to start removing material from either the trigger or the cam (see video below), I would contact Cornfire.  Atrius Forced Reset Selector - How I Tune My Configuration |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: To be fair, that video is about a particular problem with the second out-of-spec (too large) diameter on the Atrius. (The Atrius appears to have two: the first is the cam on the lever, the second is on the barrel near the detent recesses.) I have not looked at this in detail, but the Cornfire has a relief cut that should prevent issues related to the second diameter. (You can see the difference in the barrel cuts near the detent recesses in @way 's photo that I re-posted there.) It might be difficult, but I would be curious to see the Cornfire surface your trigger was contacting in the third position. I suspect its the cam surface on the lever. In that case, unless you want to start removing material from either the trigger or the cam (see video below), I would contact Cornfire.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kv-RStIYefUThat’s very helpful info, thanks for the reply. I also am able to depress the hammer fully and move the cam lever forward and backward in the third safety postion freely without binding. Decided to take your advice and reach out to Cornfire for some troubleshooting recommendations before I start cutting on the trigger. |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: That’s very helpful info, thanks for the reply. I also am able to depress the hammer fully and move the cam lever forward and backward in the third safety postion freely without binding. Decided to take your advice and reach out to Cornfire for some troubleshooting recommendations before I start cutting on the trigger. Originally Posted By Texasag10: Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: To be fair, that video is about a particular problem with the second out-of-spec (too large) diameter on the Atrius. (The Atrius appears to have two: the first is the cam on the lever, the second is on the barrel near the detent recesses.) I have not looked at this in detail, but the Cornfire has a relief cut that should prevent issues related to the second diameter. (You can see the difference in the barrel cuts near the detent recesses in @way 's photo that I re-posted there.) It might be difficult, but I would be curious to see the Cornfire surface your trigger was contacting in the third position. I suspect its the cam surface on the lever. In that case, unless you want to start removing material from either the trigger or the cam (see video below), I would contact Cornfire. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kv-RStIYefUThat’s very helpful info, thanks for the reply. I also am able to depress the hammer fully and move the cam lever forward and backward in the third safety postion freely without binding. Decided to take your advice and reach out to Cornfire for some troubleshooting recommendations before I start cutting on the trigger. Your first and easiest troubleshooting attempt would be trying it with a different trigger. |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: That’s very helpful info, thanks for the reply. I also am able to depress the hammer fully and move the cam lever forward and backward in the third safety postion freely without binding. Decided to take your advice and reach out to Cornfire for some troubleshooting recommendations before I start cutting on the trigger. Based on your photo, that is definitely clearing the cylinder on the right side of the gun (left side in your photo). It looks like it's only contact is with the lever cam. Given that you can do the depressed hammer test without issue, I think reaching out to Cornfire is your best bet. In the mean time, @ELittlefield 's suggestion is sound. If you have another single-stage mil-spec-like FCG lying around, you might try that to see if you get different results, which could help Cornfire's ability to troubleshoot. For fun, you might even try your SS cut trigger shoe and see what happens with a function check (and being very careful to make sure that both safe and semi work reliably before moving to any live fire test). I would assume the trigger you have is the least finicky about fitment, though, so this is kind of a head-scratcher. |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Based on your photo, that is definitely clearing the cylinder on the right side of the gun (left side in your photo). It looks like it's only contact is with the lever cam. Given that you can do the depressed hammer test without issue, I think reaching out to Cornfire is your best bet. In the mean time, @ELittlefield 's suggestion is sound. If you have another single-stage mil-spec-like FCG lying around, you might try that to see if you get different results, which could help Cornfire's ability to troubleshoot. For fun, you might even try your SS cut trigger shoe and see what happens with a function check (and being very careful to make sure that both safe and semi work reliably before moving to any live fire test). I would assume the trigger you have is the least finicky about fitment, though, so this is kind of a head-scratcher. Thanks so much for the write up. I agree I think it is interference between the lever cam. I did not try it with the only other mil spec trigger I had due to CMMG being called out as incompatible. For fun, I did put in the cut trigger from my HT super safety and was able to get the hammer to drop when pulling the trigger in third position but it did not seem like it was acting right when it comes to forcing a reset with the lever. It would also drop the hammer when on safe lol, so I have it removed. Won’t have another trigger to try until my Colt lpk comes in sometime this week. Will see what Cornfire says. |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: Thanks so much for the write up. I agree I think it is interference between the lever cam. I did not try it with the only other mil spec trigger I had due to CMMG being called out as incompatible. For fun, I did put in the cut trigger from my HT super safety and was able to get the hammer to drop when pulling the trigger in third position but it did not seem like it was acting right when it comes to forcing a reset with the lever. It would also drop the hammer when on safe lol, so I have it removed. Won’t have another trigger to try until my Colt lpk comes in sometime this week. Will see what Cornfire says. Originally Posted By Texasag10: Thanks so much for the write up. I agree I think it is interference between the lever cam. I did not try it with the only other mil spec trigger I had due to CMMG being called out as incompatible. For fun, I did put in the cut trigger from my HT super safety and was able to get the hammer to drop when pulling the trigger in third position but it did not seem like it was acting right when it comes to forcing a reset with the lever. It would also drop the hammer when on safe lol, so I have it removed. Won’t have another trigger to try until my Colt lpk comes in sometime this week. Will see what Cornfire says. In retrospect, I'm not surprised you lost safe. When I reexamined my Atrius, the safe position relies on contact with the right rear of the trigger. SS cuts remove that portion, relying on contact with the left rear. So they're basically mutually incompatible when it comes to the safe position. Apologies I missed this the first time around. Let us know what Cornfire says. I'm curious about this one, especially in light of these earlier posts: Originally Posted By @CornFireArsenal at 11/24/2025 1:33:41 PM CST: We have seen this issue with a range of milspec triggers. The next run has a slightly different lever, which we have modified to accommodate a wider range of milspec options. On my own rifles, one milspec trigger out of a parts box didn't work, and would not reset. I swapped with a Radical (lol) left over from a build and it dropped right in and test fired perfectly. We're trying to compile a list of which ones work, but truly need customer input to help us with finding the sweet spot. There are just too many out there with a range of tolerances, and we want the thing to be safe for you to have in your home. The new lever SHOULD work with a more comprehensive list of triggers. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: My G2S did not. As hit and miss as these are with various triggers, YMMV. Originally Posted By shultz: My G2S did not. As hit and miss as these are with various triggers, YMMV. Mine didn't either. I tried multiple lowers. Originally Posted By @CornFireArsenal at 11/24/2025 1:23:42 PM CST: The majority of G$ triggers work, we're still testing a handful of models. The only models with issues so far to my knowledge are the SSAE and SSAE-X which need the tail end shaved down just a hair. We do highly recommend the overtravel stop with ALL G$ hammers, as you will have issues without it. If you ordered the MARC for a G$ and didn't check the box for the overtravel stop, we are more than happy to get one out to you. Reach out to our cs email with your order number and we can get one to you for like shipping cost. Based on anecdotal observations, it seems like the G2S is more likely to not work than to work? Maybe this is a tolerance issue? (Or maybe it's a selection bias, if people on these forums are more likely to discuss failures.) |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: In retrospect, I'm not surprised you lost safe. When I reexamined my Atrius, the safe position relies on contact with the right rear of the trigger. SS cuts remove that portion, relying on contact with the left rear. So they're basically mutually incompatible when it comes to the safe position. Apologies I missed this the first time around. Let us know what Cornfire says. I'm curious about this one, especially in light of these earlier posts: Got a response back from Cornfire pretty quick: “If the trigger won’t pull, it will require some clearance. You can shave the top of the trigger tail, just a little bit at a time until it will drop the hammer in the 3rd pos” Going to work on polishing and removing material from the top of the trigger tail and refit. |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: Got a response back from Cornfire pretty quick: “If the trigger won’t pull, it will require some clearance. You can shave the top of the trigger tail, just a little bit at a time until it will drop the hammer in the 3rd pos” Going to work on polishing and removing material from the top of the trigger tail and refit. Originally Posted By Texasag10: Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: In retrospect, I'm not surprised you lost safe. When I reexamined my Atrius, the safe position relies on contact with the right rear of the trigger. SS cuts remove that portion, relying on contact with the left rear. So they're basically mutually incompatible when it comes to the safe position. Apologies I missed this the first time around. Let us know what Cornfire says. I'm curious about this one, especially in light of these earlier posts: Got a response back from Cornfire pretty quick: “If the trigger won’t pull, it will require some clearance. You can shave the top of the trigger tail, just a little bit at a time until it will drop the hammer in the 3rd pos” Going to work on polishing and removing material from the top of the trigger tail and refit. Go slow. It's just a mil spec, so you can always replace it, but go slow. If you go too far, IM me and I'll send you another mil spec shoe. |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: Got a response back from Cornfire pretty quick: “If the trigger won’t pull, it will require some clearance. You can shave the top of the trigger tail, just a little bit at a time until it will drop the hammer in the 3rd pos” Going to work on polishing and removing material from the top of the trigger tail and refit. Glad you got a quick response. At 14m18s of the video I posted above, YouTuber @kurisutofer does a pretty good job of going over his own technique. (It's unfortunate that YouTube won't allow him to show the actual work, though.) He even notes that he did not have to remove nearly as much metal as his math would have indicated. Good luck! |
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Originally Posted By Texasag10: Got a response back from Cornfire pretty quick: “If the trigger won’t pull, it will require some clearance. You can shave the top of the trigger tail, just a little bit at a time until it will drop the hammer in the 3rd pos” Going to work on polishing and removing material from the top of the trigger tail and refit. This is what I had to do to get my MARC to work. It’s better to have too much material than not enough. In the third position with the trigger pulled, the surface on the bottom of the lever wouldn’t let the trigger move far enough to disengage the hammer. Once I removed a tiny bit of material from along the top LEFT side of the trigger, it worked. After I verified function, I polished the surface. Works well now. |
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Originally Posted By bluedog82: ... Can’t post YT shorts since I’ve been kicked off, but there’s some footage of my MARC in this video here. Milspec trigger in a BAD Mod0 lower. H2 buffer and the Leitner Wise LABC makes for a very pleasant RoF with this can. Probably 600ish? @bluedog82 , did you have to shave your trigger at all? (Apologies for not watching 13m of video to see if you already answered this. Rumble doesn't have searchable transcripts.) |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: @bluedog82 , did you have to shave your trigger at all? (Apologies for not watching 13m of video to see if you already answered this. Rumble doesn't have searchable transcripts.) Nope, seems to be working just fine with no modification. Pretty pleased! |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Mine didn't either. I tried multiple lowers. Based on anecdotal observations, it seems like the G2S is more likely to not work than to work? Maybe this is a tolerance issue? (Or maybe it's a selection bias, if people on these forums are more likely to discuss failures.) Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Originally Posted By shultz: My G2S did not. As hit and miss as these are with various triggers, YMMV. Mine didn't either. I tried multiple lowers. Originally Posted By @CornFireArsenal at 11/24/2025 1:23:42 PM CST: The majority of G$ triggers work, we're still testing a handful of models. The only models with issues so far to my knowledge are the SSAE and SSAE-X which need the tail end shaved down just a hair. We do highly recommend the overtravel stop with ALL G$ hammers, as you will have issues without it. If you ordered the MARC for a G$ and didn't check the box for the overtravel stop, we are more than happy to get one out to you. Reach out to our cs email with your order number and we can get one to you for like shipping cost. Based on anecdotal observations, it seems like the G2S is more likely to not work than to work? Maybe this is a tolerance issue? (Or maybe it's a selection bias, if people on these forums are more likely to discuss failures.) I think when I get one im going to try it with my g2s first |
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My Cornfire came in this week. I’m still waiting on a few triggers to arrive, but so far it has dropped in and passed function tests with KAK, KM Tactical, Colt, ALG (I think), LBE, Schmid, Double Star, several cheap AR Stoner triggers, and a couple other budget triggers. I then tried a Geissele G2S trigger and it did not work. All of the other triggers measured about .326–.329 at the tail, while the Geissele measured about .313. Even though it’s already shaved down more and thinner, it still isn’t a drop-in, working trigger, at least in my setup. I think it’s just the nature of the two-stage design and the geometry it uses. It will release on reset, but it will not clear the main sear. If I sand it enough to clear the sear, I’m afraid it will end up too short, and the lever cam won’t have enough meat left on the tail to push it down far enough to clear the reset. I’m still playing around with it, but that’s what I’m seeing so far.  Cornfife Geissele G2S Edit: I think with a little filing/sanding, the G2S can be made to work — https://www.youtube.com/shorts/eL7ROphPJkI I haven’t decided what I want to do yet, which is why I haven’t sanded it down. Just passing this along for anyone else trying to decide. |
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Got the new torx screws and springs. Old left, the new spring is heavier wire, has more space between coils(longer) and fully closed ends. Better made and much stiffer spring. both are 4 coils so that didn't change. Attached File Wierd cornfire sticker.... no clue what this means and probably don't want to know  Attached File |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Huge shout out to georgelb. I extracted the hex screw, and now am upgraded. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/590787/IMG_2934_jpeg-3695061.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/590787/IMG_2935_jpeg-3695062.JPG I used a tiny amount of 222 purple loctite for install. used a good quality, good fit .050 bit and even heated the screw a little, that soft ass screw head still stripped! Very impressed with how easy the small/micro screw extractor kit made removal. Much better/easier than my old method of using a thin Dremel cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the screw head.... The new spring is STIFF! I don't notice much change going from safe to semi, flipping into FRT is certainly a tiny bit stiffer. Where I notice the additional spring tension is moving the lever by hand when in FRT mode. It feels like 50% more pressure/drag on the lever compared to the old spring. Not a big deal for centerfire. With 22lr already being energy challenged, that increased resistance in the lever movement may not prevent function but I can easily see it effecting tuning. I'm not even going to bother trying this new spring in 22lr until I have to. The old springs I swap out for the new spring will be kept just for 22lr. |
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@shultz Did you have to pay for the updated parts? I received my MARC in November. It came with the weak spring and Allen screw. I just sent them an email. (Couldn’t use the “Contact us” link on their website. It kept saying my CAPTCHA was wrong  )
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Originally Posted By mini14jac: @shultz Did you have to pay for the updated parts? I received my MARC in November. It came with the weak spring and Allen screw. I just sent them an email. (Couldn't use the "Contact us" link on their website. It kept saying my CAPTCHA was wrong )I was ordering another MARC so I just added 10 set of springs/torx screws to the order... |
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Originally Posted By georgeib: What's the deal with the new heavier springs? Necessary? The new spring is not only thicker wire ie stiffer, it also has larger gaps between coils making it longer plus fully closed ends. It's a better made spring for sure. One potential problem I see is the old spring was at or nearly at solid height in FRT mode, the new spring more so. This is not good for spring longevity. Then again, the new spring being heavier wire should handle this better and even when it does weaken it will still likely be stronger than the old spring when new making service life a wash or in favor of the new spring. Another thing I noticed, the new spring makes overriding the lever with too much trigger finger pressure a bit more difficult. In my set ups the lever would easily fly forward releasing the hammer once it hit the midpoint of travel with a little too much trigger finger pressure using the old lever spring. The new spring and increase in lever drag requires a bit more trigger finger pressure and the lever has to be closer to the hammer for this early release to happen. This is a good thing for overall timing. If you're using the MARC for 22lr, you will probably have to retune anti bounce weight and maybe recoil spring rate if you install the new lever spring, I'm not! The lever has what feels like 50% more drag/friction in FRT mode using the new spring vs old. This increase in lever drag will almost certainly have an impact on 22lr function. Unlikely you would even notice this drag shooting centerfire much less any function impact. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: The stiffer spring will keep the lever held in position more firmly, not sure if the older spring was causing issues or not. I never had any using the old spring. The new spring is not only thicker wire ie stiffer, it also has larger gaps between coils making it longer plus fully closed ends. It's a better made spring for sure. One potential problem I see is the old spring was at or nearly at solid height in FRT mode, the new spring more so. This is not good for spring longevity. Then again, the new spring being heavier wire should handle this better and even when it does weaken it will still likely be stronger than the old spring when new making service life a wash or in favor of the new spring. Another thing I noticed, the new spring makes overriding the lever with too much trigger finger pressure a bit more difficult. In my set ups the lever would easily fly forward releasing the hammer once it hit the midpoint of travel with a little too much trigger finger pressure using the old lever spring. The new spring and increase in lever drag requires a bit more trigger finger pressure and the lever has to be closer to the hammer for this early release to happen. This is a good thing for overall timing. If you're using the MARC for 22lr, you will probably have to retune anti bounce weight and maybe recoil spring rate if you install the new lever spring, I'm not! The lever has what feels like 50% more drag/friction in FRT mode using the new spring vs old. This increase in lever drag will almost certainly have an impact on 22lr function. Unlikely you would even notice this drag shooting centerfire much less any function impact. Thank you! 🙏 |
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Changing the subject slightly: Cornfire appears to be having a fire sale on their D2 Hoffman SSes ($60 w/ pre-cut shoe; $35 w/o): https://cornfirearsenal.com/d2-super-safeties-fyler-pricing/ It sounds like they're getting rid of existing inventory before upgrading their materials. The finish on their drums is a little dull from what I've seen, but if appearance isn't an issue, and D2 is GTG for your application, this might be a decent deal. I have no affiliation with Cornfire other than as a satisfied customer. |
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Luck was a Lady Found a round tuit Friday. Cashed it in on my MARC. Last episode, i was bemoaning my lack of luck in speed purchasing a MARC on the hopes it'd drop in with a G$ SSAeX I had purchased special for the party. Well, got no trigger on duty in FRT and no fires. Side Lessons Learned: SSAeX does not drop into trigger jigs - plan b. Enter voices of local influencers promising "go slow, it'll be easy." So, while the wife got a new hair did friday, I started about developing expertise and technique for in/outing the G$ and lever blocker. Five unsuccessful refits in, I accidentally learned I actually needed to reinstall tbe grip (w/detent locating safety positions) to accurately confirm function. After the fifth babystep, it failed to fire in 3rd position. I was cheating the process by function testing sans grip. Don't function test sans grip - grip activates detent to locate cams properly. 'Cause when I decided to put it together and put it down ... it function tested perfectly. Moral of story is: I'm lucky I didn't allow lazy to brick my G$. Shortcut was poorly conceived. Result is no harm, no foul. Prognosis: Miles of smiles. To fit a G$ to a MARC, gently round the left, rear, upper corner of the G$ shoe. Go slow, fit (no shortcuts), test, repeat. |
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: Luck was a Lady Found a round tuit Friday. Cashed it in on my MARC. Last episode, i was bemoaning my lack of luck in speed purchasing a MARC on the hopes it'd drop in with a G$ SSAeX I had purchased special for the party. Well, got no trigger on duty in FRT and no fires. Side Lessons Learned: SSAeX does not drop into trigger jigs - plan b. Enter voices of local influencers promising "go slow, it'll be easy." So, while the wife got a new hair did friday, I started about developing expertise and technique for in/outing the G$ and lever blocker. Five unsuccessful refits in, I accidentally learned I actually needed to reinstall tbe grip (w/detent locating safety positions) to accurately confirm function. After the fifth babystep, it failed to fire in 3rd position. I was cheating the process by function testing sans grip. Don't function test sans grip - grip activates detent to locate cams properly. 'Cause when I decided to put it together and put it down ... it function tested perfectly. Moral of story is: I'm lucky I didn't allow lazy to brick my G$. Shortcut was poorly conceived. Result is no harm, no foul. Prognosis: Miles of smiles. To fit a G$ to a MARC, gently round the left, rear, upper corner of the G$ shoe. Go slow, fit (no shortcuts), test, repeat. It was a little hard to follow your story. So you rounded the left trigger shoe corner and got it working, correct? Can you still use the trigger with a non frt safety? Or have the mods made your G trigger an frt only trigger forever? Thanks for sharing your results, much appreciated. . |
I am not an operator nor am I very smart.
Keep that in mind when reading my comments:-)
Keep that in mind when reading my comments:-)
The voices in my head say I’m just being paranoid
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KY, USA
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Received my MARC today, tried it in two lowers, one with a milspec trigger and one with an SSA. The third position won’t release the hammer in either rifle. |
If you aren't representing Jesus in a way that makes people want to hang out with you, you're doing it wrong.
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Originally Posted By Sputnik556: Received my MARC today, tried it in two lowers, one with a milspec trigger and one with an SSA. The third position won’t release the hammer in either rifle. That's quite odd. A standard, mil spec trigger, and you have a full auto profile BCG? |
The voices in my head say I’m just being paranoid
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: That's quite odd. A standard, mil spec trigger, and you have a full auto profile BCG? Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: Received my MARC today, tried it in two lowers, one with a milspec trigger and one with an SSA. The third position won’t release the hammer in either rifle. That's quite odd. A standard, mil spec trigger, and you have a full auto profile BCG? Correct. It doesn’t even work just doing a function test without an upper on it. I’m willing to accept the possibility that I’m retarded and installed it incorrectly but I watched a video and it seems to be correct. |
If you aren't representing Jesus in a way that makes people want to hang out with you, you're doing it wrong.
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Originally Posted By Sputnik556: Correct. It doesn’t even work just doing a function test without an upper on it. I’m willing to accept the possibility that I’m retarded and installed it incorrectly but I watched a video and it seems to be correct. Originally Posted By Sputnik556: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: Received my MARC today, tried it in two lowers, one with a milspec trigger and one with an SSA. The third position won’t release the hammer in either rifle. That's quite odd. A standard, mil spec trigger, and you have a full auto profile BCG? Correct. It doesn’t even work just doing a function test without an upper on it. I’m willing to accept the possibility that I’m retarded and installed it incorrectly but I watched a video and it seems to be correct. Just so we're clear, while you're doing function tests with the upper off, the lever has to be forward in order to let the trigger release. The lever can't be sitting back. |
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The voices in my head say I’m just being paranoid
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Just so we're clear, while you're doing function tests with the upper off, the lever has to be forward in order to let the trigger release. The lever can't be sitting back. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: Received my MARC today, tried it in two lowers, one with a milspec trigger and one with an SSA. The third position won’t release the hammer in either rifle. That's quite odd. A standard, mil spec trigger, and you have a full auto profile BCG? Correct. It doesn’t even work just doing a function test without an upper on it. I’m willing to accept the possibility that I’m retarded and installed it incorrectly but I watched a video and it seems to be correct. Just so we're clear, while you're doing function tests with the upper off, the lever has to be forward in order to let the trigger release. The lever can't be sitting back. Well, seems that was one of my problems. It’s releasing the hammer now, but it’s just standard semi in the third position, no forced reset I’m assuming it’s something I’ve done incorrectly |
If you aren't representing Jesus in a way that makes people want to hang out with you, you're doing it wrong.
The voices in my head say I’m just being paranoid
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Originally Posted By Alpha-17: Very odd. What brand Mil-Spec trigger and lowers? H&R lower, trigger is probably PSA but I honestly don’t know. I pulled it out of a parts box. |
If you aren't representing Jesus in a way that makes people want to hang out with you, you're doing it wrong.
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