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Cornfire Arsenal? (Now Copperhead Safety vs Corn Gun Works?) (Page 7 of 10)
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I want one for my SBR lower which runs both a 7.5" upper in 300 Blk, set up for subsonic shooting only, and my 5" 9mm CMMG RDB upper, also suppressed. So, don't care about it working with a Geiselle trigger since that lower will never have one. The lower was built from an A7 Designs stripped lower (it is a low shelf) and is currently wearing a binary. I do have the A5 tube, Warthog flat spring and Kynshot buffer that Amphibian recommended when I built the 9mm upper. That set up works well with both the 9mm and 300 Blk uppers. So far, it seems the three best options, from what I can tell, is the ARC Fire, the Corn Fire, or an Arizona Regulator. Rare Breed is absolutely out of the question. I would like something that's going to require the least amount of fiddling, but I do realize some could b e required. Money isn't an issue. |
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Originally Posted By EDL: I would like something that's going to require the least amount of fiddling, but I do realize some could b e required. Money isn't an issue. Get ARC Fire and run the MilSpec trigger that comes with it. Should work great with no fiddling beyond installing H3 buffer with sliding weights. If you find the selectors unsatisfactory, get the MilSpec selectors too. Cornfire may require fiddling, depending on the trigger you want to use. Skip the AZR… the semi-auto trigger pull on mine is atrocious. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Right now, if price is no object, I recommend the ARC Fire with MilSpec selectors and a professionally modified Geiselle trigger. The $460+ price tag makes this the most expensive FRT on the market today. The thing you have to remember about that statement is that you added the optional G$ trigger to it. It is not required and you can use the supplied milspec trigger and use your milspec hammer and parts for a basic install with normal rotating safety levers for a decent price. (I personally hate push button SS's) The G$ trigger does add to the cost, but in return you can get a near match grade semi auto trigger pull, and also forced reset. The best of both worlds in my opinion. The drop in cassette type ones generally have a pretty shitty pull. I hate the pull on my RB unit. I also have a older dairyland one and it too is a very shitty pull. I also want a better than milspec trigger. I got spoiled by all my nice triggers and can not go back. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I have both. I don't regret buying the Cornfires, and they happen to work with two of my Geisseles. That said, the ARC-Fire with a super safety cut Geissele and their mil spec selectors is the best FRT on the market. Sir. I gotta axe ... So, your cornfires run with G$, but you continue to favor Arcfire with ASD cut G$. Why? I ask as I missed the "luck" - my cornfire doesn't brrrt my G$ SSAx - yet. So, I presently have my favorite lower lined up to figure how to get forced reset position brrrt'g. I Do you have reason to favor G$ with ASD over Cornfire? I do have the ASD blocker doing duty with the MARC - clearly a more robust blocker from ASD. I gave my Arcfire to my stepson for Christmas, so I'm wondering if I need to place an order. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: The thing you have to remember about that statement is that you added the optional G$ trigger to it. It is not required and you can use the supplied milspec trigger and use your milspec hammer and parts for a basic install with normal rotating safety levers for a decent price. (I personally hate push button SS's) The G$ trigger does add to the cost, but in return you can get a near match grade semi auto trigger pull, and also forced reset. The best of both worlds in my opinion. The drop in cassette type ones generally have a pretty shitty pull. I hate the pull on my RB unit. I also have a older dairyland one and it too is a very shitty pull. I also want a better than milspec trigger. I got spoiled by all my nice triggers and can not go back. Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Right now, if price is no object, I recommend the ARC Fire with MilSpec selectors and a professionally modified Geiselle trigger. The $460+ price tag makes this the most expensive FRT on the market today. The thing you have to remember about that statement is that you added the optional G$ trigger to it. It is not required and you can use the supplied milspec trigger and use your milspec hammer and parts for a basic install with normal rotating safety levers for a decent price. (I personally hate push button SS's) The G$ trigger does add to the cost, but in return you can get a near match grade semi auto trigger pull, and also forced reset. The best of both worlds in my opinion. The drop in cassette type ones generally have a pretty shitty pull. I hate the pull on my RB unit. I also have a older dairyland one and it too is a very shitty pull. I also want a better than milspec trigger. I got spoiled by all my nice triggers and can not go back. I try to emphasize this when giving my wholehearted ARC/Geissele recommendation to people; that the stock trigger is still quite nice. The Geissele upgrade is what takes it from very good, to the top of the market. |
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: Sir. I gotta axe ... So, your cornfires run with G$, but you continue to favor Arcfire with ASD cut G$. Why? I ask as I missed the "luck" - my cornfire doesn't brrrt my G$ SSAx - yet. So, I presently have my favorite lower lined up to figure how to get forced reset position brrrt'g. I Do you have reason to favor G$ with ASD over Cornfire? I do have the ASD blocker doing duty with the MARC - clearly a more robust blocker from ASD. I gave my Arcfire to my stepson for Christmas, so I'm wondering if I need to place an order. Originally Posted By dredeagle: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I have both. I don't regret buying the Cornfires, and they happen to work with two of my Geisseles. That said, the ARC-Fire with a super safety cut Geissele and their mil spec selectors is the best FRT on the market. Sir. I gotta axe ... So, your cornfires run with G$, but you continue to favor Arcfire with ASD cut G$. Why? I ask as I missed the "luck" - my cornfire doesn't brrrt my G$ SSAx - yet. So, I presently have my favorite lower lined up to figure how to get forced reset position brrrt'g. I Do you have reason to favor G$ with ASD over Cornfire? I do have the ASD blocker doing duty with the MARC - clearly a more robust blocker from ASD. I gave my Arcfire to my stepson for Christmas, so I'm wondering if I need to place an order. I can’t recommend the Cornfire/Geissele combo to people who are asking me for my recommendation, because of the uncertainty as to whether it will work. IF it works, it’s certainly a better value than the ARC Fire, especially if you already own a G, and especially if you’re willing to polish or cut the trigger tail. But I don’t like recommending that to people asking “which FRT should I buy.” Especially given that I have not personally modified a G$ to make it work with the Cornfire, I just found 2 lowers that they drop in. I hope that makes sense. |
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Originally Posted By TheGunslinger: Has anyone figured out how and what to modify for Geissele and MBT triggers that dont work with the Marc? This is the MBT info sent out by Cornfire. I have not attempted this myself.  " /> " />I don't know the Geissele method recommendation. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: This is the MBT info sent out by Cornfire. I have not attempted this myself. [url]https://i.imgur.com/n0d44XW.png">https://i.imgur.com/n0d44XW.png">[url]https://i.imgur.com/n0d44XW.png [url]https://i.imgur.com/5rpRLqi.png">https://i.imgur.com/5rpRLqi.png">[url]https://i.imgur.com/5rpRLqi.png I don't know the Geissele method recommendation. |
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I'd be curious to know what percentage of Geissele triggers need to be modified. Normally I'm the one to draw the short end of the stick, and get stuck with stuff that doesn't work, but thus far, I've only encountered 1 out four selectors that need fitting, and that was with a "mil-spec" trigger. As for the debate between Cornfire and the ARC-Fire, I'm going through that now for my HK. HK Parts has a full package, ARC-Fire and mil-spec trigger for the the MR556 for $300. At the same time, I'd be stuck with needing a modified trigger if I decided to go with a trigger upgrade down the line. Compare that to $100 less for the MARC, and the ability to upgrade to Geissele triggers down the line without needing to use a cut trigger. So, besides having an Ambi option (which Cornfire will probably get around to at some point), what's the advantage of the ARC-Fire? |
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Originally Posted By Alpha-17: I'd be curious to know what percentage of Geissele triggers need to be modified. Normally I'm the one to draw the short end of the stick, and get stuck with stuff that doesn't work, but thus far, I've only encountered 1 out four selectors that need fitting, and that was with a "mil-spec" trigger. As for the debate between Cornfire and the ARC-Fire, I'm going through that now for my HK. HK Parts has a full package, ARC-Fire and mil-spec trigger for the the MR556 for $300. At the same time, I'd be stuck with needing a modified trigger if I decided to go with a trigger upgrade down the line. Compare that to $100 less for the MARC, and the ability to upgrade to Geissele triggers down the line without needing to use a cut trigger. So, besides having an Ambi option (which Cornfire will probably get around to at some point), what's the advantage of the ARC-Fire? Two factors for me. The uncertainty of whether or not a factory G$ trigger will work with a MARC in any given lower, and the fact that the ARC-Fire uses a larger trip lever, with a clutch rather than a spring to engage FRT mode. It inspires a little more confidence in the durability. I have two MARC selectors, and they work with two of my Geisseles in two of my lowers. I'm very happy with them as they sit now. But I can't recommend someone buy one and buy a Geissele, because of the uncertainty. They'd be out a good chunk of money. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Get ARC Fire and run the MilSpec trigger that comes with it. Should work great with no fiddling beyond installing H3 buffer with sliding weights. If you find the selectors unsatisfactory, get the MilSpec selectors too. Cornfire may require fiddling, depending on the trigger you want to use. Skip the AZR… the semi-auto trigger pull on mine is atrocious. Milspec trigger is fine for this set up (both uppers are short barrel, subsonics only). A Geiselle would be a waste on this thing. I'm not changing my buffer system. As I mentioned, it's the A5 tube, Warthog spring, and kynshot buffer as per Amphibian when I built the CMMG RDB upper. That spring was recommended specifically because I do use the mentioned 300 Blk upper on it as well. They both function well with a binary, so not sure if that translates to probably work well with an FRT or not. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I can’t recommend the Cornfire/Geissele combo to people who are asking me for my recommendation, because of the uncertainty as to whether it will work. IF it works, it’s certainly a better value than the ARC Fire, especially if you already own a G, and especially if you’re willing to polish or cut the trigger tail. But I don’t like recommending that to people asking “which FRT should I buy.” Especially given that I have not personally modified a G$ to make it work with the Cornfire, I just found 2 lowers that they drop in. I hope that makes sense. Great sense ... Thank you. If I understand, you are giving a purchase rec rather than calling out what performs best. I'm not a fan of SS cuts 'cause I dunno whats left if the active safety is removed. Leaves me wondering ... if Atrius and Cornfire can run 3 pos active safety w/o cut trigger, why didn't ASD? I'm left to guess, it makes Arcfire backward compatible with their SS's. This makes them the defacto 3 pos upgrade for any Hoffman styled SS. I get that, but I only had one pushbutton safety in service, so ... I'm thinking cornfire should become a G$ dealer so they could supply ready examples. |
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: I'm thinking cornfire should become a G$ dealer so they could supply ready examples. They are. |
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: They are. Yeah but unfortunately they don't offer the MARC with a fitted G trigger. They only seem to offer a combo with the SS / G. Some say the MARC works great with their G trigger while others have problems. So it sounds to be hit or miss. |
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Keep that in mind when reading my comments:-)
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: They are. Strange then that they'd offer a work plan for the MBT, but go silent about what makes a G$ work. Gonna be sore if they drop a G$ work plan -after- I pull the G$ for the MBT. Hey Cornfire - do y'all know how to fit a G$ for the MARC? Fair enough, the original compatibility proposition was for MBTs - my original hope, but when folks started reporting G$, I hadta try. |
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Huge shout out to georgelb. I extracted the hex screw, and now am upgraded. Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: I'm not a fan of SS cuts 'cause I dunno whats left if the active safety is removed. Leaves me wondering ... if Atrius and Cornfire can run 3 pos active safety w/o cut trigger, why didn't ASD? I'm left to guess, it makes Arcfire backward compatible with their SS's. This makes them the defacto 3 pos upgrade for any Hoffman styled SS. I get that, but I only had one pushbutton safety in service, so ... There's a few reasons, but the three main ones are reset leverage, tolerance stacking, and, like you said, backwards compatibility. Reset leverage to increase reliability, especially in underpowered platforms (this is why BoreBuddy said ARC-Fire is the most reliable FRT they've tested on their 22LRs, matching their M16 lower), but to also give a smoother reset feel. This also reduces stress on the lever reducing the risk of breaking. Tolerance stacking is very clearly an issue for products that don't use the SS cut as you can see from the amount of "milspec" triggers that don't function with something that says it works with "milspec" triggers. And even from the list of known compatible triggers you'll see people having issues or sometimes the Geissele works for one person in a certain lower but not another lower, etc. The SS cut keeps one fixed variable that allows for some play in the tolerances (especially with the super safety, it's very forgiving). Then a lot of the solutions for the issue are to grind down the top just a hair or round/bevel it slightly... so why not just cut the trigger to begin with? Backwards compatibility for the upgrade path that many existing users of SS will consider, but also for all of our existing designs that fit other platforms (i.e. JAKL, B&T, Stribog, etc.). If we had changed to a design that used uncut triggers, it would've likely been impossible to retain that compatibility and we would've had to abandon SS support most likely which hurts the overall community as there are still plenty of people printing a SS instead of buying it. That all said, there's nothing wrong with the design that uses uncut triggers, but for us it didn't make sense and we try to avoid promising a "drop-in" solution with the extreme amount of variables that customers have. |
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Yes, big thanks for the Torx upgrade. I received more than I need. I'll pay single screws forward to the first three addresses I get in DM (not replies to this thread - arfcom is gonna time sort DMs for me). I don't work in an office, so I will respond to first three DMs and edit this post when they've been claimed. I expect to get'm moving USPS b4 Monday. |
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: Yes, big thanks for the Torx upgrade. I received more than I need. I'll pay single screws forward to the first three addresses I get in DM (not replies to this thread - arfcom is gonna time sort DMs for me). I don't work in an office, so I will respond to first three DMs and edit this post when they've been claimed. I expect to get'm moving USPS b4 Monday. DM sent... |
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I've gone back and forth as to whether I wanted to make this alteration, but I decided to do it while I was swapping the screw. On my M4A1 Block II, the FRT setting was pretty heavy. Probably in the 6-8 pound range, so pullable, but different enough that several times when shooting it failed to go off on my first pull, before remembering and pulling harder. And the trigger pull was basically pulling against a hard wall, and then the trigger broke, and the trigger did not move at all backward from the break. It was probably the tallest tail physically possible to have on the trigger that actually did drop the hammer. So I decided to shave the thinnest amount of material possible from the top of the tail of the shoe. I went just a hair at a time, and stopped as soon as I attained a normal trigger pull. I strongly recommend that the slave pin be used when installing these triggers, especially if doing it multiple times. I really love this trigger. If it reliably, consistently, and without modification dropped in with factory Geisseles, I would wholeheartedly recommend this to everybody asking for a good FRT.  " /> " />
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I've gone back and forth as to whether I wanted to make this alteration, but I decided to do it while I was swapping the screw. On my M4A1 Block II, the FRT setting was pretty heavy. Probably in the 6-8 pound range, so pullable, but different enough that several times when shooting it failed to go off on my first pull, before remembering and pulling harder. And the trigger pull was basically pulling against a hard wall, and then the trigger broke, and the trigger did not move at all backward from the break. It was probably the tallest tail physically possible to have on the trigger that actually did drop the hammer. So I decided to shave the thinnest amount of material possible from the top of the tail of the shoe. I went just a hair at a time, and stopped as soon as I attained a normal trigger pull. I strongly recommend that the slave pin be used when installing these triggers, especially if doing it multiple times. Left side, right side or both sides? |
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: Left side, right side or both sides? Originally Posted By dredeagle: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I've gone back and forth as to whether I wanted to make this alteration, but I decided to do it while I was swapping the screw. On my M4A1 Block II, the FRT setting was pretty heavy. Probably in the 6-8 pound range, so pullable, but different enough that several times when shooting it failed to go off on my first pull, before remembering and pulling harder. And the trigger pull was basically pulling against a hard wall, and then the trigger broke, and the trigger did not move at all backward from the break. It was probably the tallest tail physically possible to have on the trigger that actually did drop the hammer. So I decided to shave the thinnest amount of material possible from the top of the tail of the shoe. I went just a hair at a time, and stopped as soon as I attained a normal trigger pull. I strongly recommend that the slave pin be used when installing these triggers, especially if doing it multiple times. Left side, right side or both sides? I took from both sides. Just barely enough to remove the black finish. |
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Couple small updates, mostly due to fiddling with different triggers. I decided to swap on of my MARCs over to my HK's lower, so I don't have to keep swapping the upper. According to Cornfire's website, the MR556A1's trigger does not work with the MARC, so I went ahead and pulled the stock HK trigger, and installed the mil-spec FCG, originally from my DD M4. Unsurprisingly, it appears to work just fine in its new home. So that makes 4 lowers I have successfully added the MARC to without issue. In an effort to fix the one lower that has had an issue (my Father-in-law's) I picked up a Geissele SSA-E trigger for him. Just to be sure everything worked, I decided to test it in my newly trigger-less PSA lower, and ran into problems. As others have reported with some Geissele triggers, it worked fine in semi, but wouldn't fire in the third position. Comparing my two Geissele triggers, I decided I'd risk a bit of fitting, and took a light file to the left side of the trigger, where the MARC seemed to be binding. Couple minutes of light filing, basically just enough to remove the finish, and I tested it out. Everything appears to be working now. Still will have to see if it works with my FIL's MARC in his AR, but as far as problems go, this one seems to have been relatively easy to fix. And, just to circle back, after I yanked the Geissele to put it back in the package, ready to be gifted, I decided to see exactly why the HK trigger doesn't work. Turns out, it works great in semi, and in the third position. Where it doesn't work, is in safe.  I know people like to pretend to be Hoot from Black Hawk Down, but I personally like having a functional manual safety on my ARs. The Radian Talon I pulled from my DD M4 at the beginning of playing with Cornfire selectors seems to work in all three positions, so I'll match those two up for now.Still need to live fire test everything, but it passes the functions test, and works when cycled manually. Hopefully Cornfire releases their Ambi selector soon, as I'm going to hold out for that before I buy any more FRTs/Super Safeties. Ambi and 45* throw are the only things the MARC seems to be missing. |
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Originally Posted By crimsonraider23: Just purchased my first one. Going into a Bad Attitude A1 lower. Bought an M16A1 parts kit from Bowman that I just got. Excited to see how it works. Was torn between this and the AZ Regulator 3 position. Might end up buying that one for my ‘77 SP1. The Cornfire MARC is what I have in my NoDak lower XM16E1 build. It works well in 5.56 and with a .22LR drop-in conversion with the added Bore Buddy bits. |
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The Cornfire seems to work in conjunction with the new Stuff and Things CARL 3 round burst limiter. I've only dry fired it so far, but it seems to be working. I'll live fire it when the weather is a little less deadly.  " /> " /> " />
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Yesterday around 1:30 PM I contacted Cornfire just to make sure the MARCs were in stock. I got a reply back at 2:40 PM confirming they were in stock and was given a coupon code. I placed an order for a few things at 4:20 PM. By 7:20 PM, I received an email that my order had been updated to shipped and included a tracking number. Today at 4:20 PM, my package was in the hands of UPS. That was pretty dang fast! |
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Update on my FIL's AR. Got his MARC working with the Geissele SSA-E I picked up for him. Took a bit more filing, even after I did a bit to get it to work with one of my MARCs. Frustrating, but still not terrible. Bigger hang up is that his Bushmaster does have a semi auto carrier, so we'll need to swap it out for an Aero Precision one at work. But, does any one have a link to replacement screws? Finally boogered up the original hex screw that came with my first MARC to the point that we almost couldn't get it out. Guess its finally time to upgrade the screws in my two. |
| When I emailed them about replacing the Allen key version I received they offered to send me one. Maybe email & ask? It's a T10 4-40 and when I asked about threadlocker this was the response "Just a small amount of blue loctite and torque to about 8 inch pounds should do it. Doesn't need to be 25 in lbs since there is no force added to it. Just needs to stay put that's all." |
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| I just received my third Cornfire (and discounted D60), after I bought two simultaneously back in November (I think). This one has a torx screw, and what feels like a much stronger engagement spring. Does anyone else have both an early and a recent model? I was just working on one of my Cornfire guns earlier today, trying to get my 3 round burst mechanism to work, so I've handled both springs today. This one is noticeably longer and stronger. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I just received my third Cornfire (and discounted D60), after I bought two simultaneously back in November (I think). This one has a torx screw, and what feels like a much stronger engagement spring. Does anyone else have both an early and a recent model? I was just working on one of my Cornfire guns earlier today, trying to get my 3 round burst mechanism to work, so I've handled both springs today. This one is noticeably longer and stronger. I saw a MARC that also shipped with a Torx screw (if that's any indication of "recentness"). Its spring was much stiffer (and I believe taller) than with the Atrius. Perhaps the original MARC springs were more like Atrius ones? |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: I saw a MARC that also shipped with a Torx screw (if that's any indication of "recentness"). Its spring was much stiffer (and I believe taller) than with the Atrius. Perhaps the original MARC springs were more like Atrius ones? Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I just received my third Cornfire (and discounted D60), after I bought two simultaneously back in November (I think). This one has a torx screw, and what feels like a much stronger engagement spring. Does anyone else have both an early and a recent model? I was just working on one of my Cornfire guns earlier today, trying to get my 3 round burst mechanism to work, so I've handled both springs today. This one is noticeably longer and stronger. I saw a MARC that also shipped with a Torx screw (if that's any indication of "recentness"). Its spring was much stiffer (and I believe taller) than with the Atrius. Perhaps the original MARC springs were more like Atrius ones? The earlier MARC springs were absolutely more like Atrius ones. Near identical to my eye. |
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Originally Posted By BTooneUSMMA: I just tried with my G2S and the trigger doesn't move in the FRT position when function checking it I've noticed the same thing, but I also see that behavior with the Atrius. I have yet to measure it, but I wonder if it's whether the MARC has the same oversized cam diameter as the Atrius or something else. YouTuber @kurisutofer has some good videos on the Atrius on his channel. If you compare, the Atrius and the MARC (like @way shows in his post), you can see that the MARC has a relief cut on the detent cylinder side:  In other words, the MARC should not suffer from this problem:  Atrius FRS - Failure to Release the Hammer - Daignosis and Correction That might help explain why it may work in semi mode? That's just speculation, though. I haven't examined it very closely. If the G2S is like the Schmidt two-stage, @kuristofer suggests it's something other than the cam diameter, and is inherent in the design (see this video at 25m47s). |
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Originally Posted By BTooneUSMMA: I just tried with my G2S and the trigger doesn't move in the FRT position when function checking it I put it in a lower this morning with a standard milspec trigger (no idea who made it/where it came from) in a Noveske lower. The trigger itself is probably slightly above average for a milspec trigger. When I installed the MARC, it worked in both semi and FRT, but the trigger pull on both was garbage, much heavier and very mushy. I then put the MARC in an anderson lower with a different G2S. This time it worked in both semi and FRT, but the trigger pull was noticeably worse in semi and terrible in FRT, very heavy/mushy/no real break. I then put it in the main rifle I shoot with an SSA. This trigger has somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-15k rounds on it, so I don't know if that has something to do with it, but the trigger functions in semi and FRT, and the trigger pull feels totally normal in semi, and is about 90% as good in FRT. I'm going to leave it with my SSA, and probably see about an ARC fire for my first G2S (which is going in a Lima 6). |
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Originally Posted By BTooneUSMMA: Update to my MARC for another data point: ... I then put it in the main rifle I shoot with an SSA. This trigger has somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-15k rounds on it, so I don't know if that has something to do with it, but the trigger functions in semi and FRT, and the trigger pull feels totally normal in semi, and is about 90% as good in FRT. I'm going to leave it with my SSA, and probably see about an ARC fire for my first G2S (which is going in a Lima 6). Are you using a lever blocker? |
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Originally Posted By okboom: Tried to post this last night, but my computer wouldn't cooperate. The Cornfire website under "Tuning Parts" has the Torx screw with a Dual banded spring for $2 plus tax and shipping. So about $10. Is this a heavier spring? You're probably talking about this. Both of the included parts (screw and spring) appear to be consistent with what is included with recently purchased MARCs and are improvements upon those accompanying original releases. If the spring on older MARCs is closer to the Atrius, then the dual banded spring is definitely stiffer, and by some observations longer. This would likely technically require more force to move from semi into FRT mode, but I don't know if it's so much as to be significantly noticeable. |
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USA
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: You're probably talking about this. Both of the included parts (screw and spring) appear to be consistent with what is included with recently purchased MARCs and are improvements upon those accompanying original releases. If the spring on older MARCs is closer to the Atrius, then the dual banded spring is definitely stiffer, and by some observations longer. This would likely technically require more force to move from semi into FRT mode, but I don't know if it's so much as to be significantly noticeable. Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Originally Posted By okboom: Tried to post this last night, but my computer wouldn't cooperate. The Cornfire website under "Tuning Parts" has the Torx screw with a Dual banded spring for $2 plus tax and shipping. So about $10. Is this a heavier spring? You're probably talking about this. Both of the included parts (screw and spring) appear to be consistent with what is included with recently purchased MARCs and are improvements upon those accompanying original releases. If the spring on older MARCs is closer to the Atrius, then the dual banded spring is definitely stiffer, and by some observations longer. This would likely technically require more force to move from semi into FRT mode, but I don't know if it's so much as to be significantly noticeable. My newest Cornfire requires more force to move from semi to FRT. It's not bad or debilitating, just noticeable. |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: You're probably talking about this. Both of the included parts (screw and spring) appear to be consistent with what is included with recently purchased MARCs and are improvements upon those accompanying original releases. If the spring on older MARCs is closer to the Atrius, then the dual banded spring is definitely stiffer, and by some observations longer. This would likely technically require more force to move from semi into FRT mode, but I don't know if it's so much as to be significantly noticeable. I bought mine on 11/21/25, so probably one of the originals. So far it has worked 100%. I'll go ahead and order these parts just because I love having spare parts! |
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