Please forgive the ignorance, but to get a different barrel on a SF, are these the correct steps:

- Pull barrel from Ruger SFAR or POF Rogue
- Remove barrel extension
- Find someone that will chamber an AR15-type barrel in 308 Win (AR10 barrels being incompatible)
- Install barrel extension on new barrel
- Put everything else back together

You just send your SFAR barrel with extension to the smith.  They'll send you back your new barrel with the extension installed.  Barrel extensions have to be installed at the time of manufacture and isn't something the average gun owner or even AR armorer is set up to do.

I know Mos-Tek and I think Paladin Machine will do it for you.

Got it, thanks.

OK, I got my SFAR all prettied up with a new handguard and Surefire brake... but unfortunately I can't get it to cycle.

I tried 2 types of ammo -- Igman ball, and Black Hills HPBT -- and had the same issue with both.  Setting 2 doesn't eject the spent brass or cock the trigger (nor does setting 1 for that matter).  Setting 3 ejects the brass and cocks the trigger, but doesn't chamber a new cartridge... except once when it almost did but the new cartridge jammed.  (Settings 1 and 4 are like setting 2, for obvious reasons).

Setting 3 is supposed to be full-open, so what's this all mean?  I have the factory buffer and buffer spring; so I need to try replacing those?  And if so, with what?  Has anyone had this same problem?

Did it cycle before you added the brake?

I wouldn't know, unfortunately.  I made the changes before I took it shooting!

Nevermind.  Looks like people like the Riflespeed adjustable gas block (and straight gas tube) to address this problem.  Nice that it's a tool-free adjustment, not-so-nice is the rather high price, but if it fixes the problem it'll be worth it.

Some muzzle brakes are more effective than others and if a gun is on the edge of function, recoil can have an affect.  All that said, if a gun is that fussy it might be worth looking into.

Did you try different mags?  I got around to trying my steel DPMS mags and they were problematic.  Magpuls just work.

I’m not sure about blaming the new muzzle device.
I’ve shot my 20” with:
Factory brake
Bare muzzle
Griffin linear compensator

It ran fine every time setting 3, only setting I’ve tried.

Something else is going on, you should figure that out before swapping gas blocks.

I figured out an AR/5.56 issue before like this.

It had a standard gas block and was short stroking like yours sounds like.

Pulled upper off, pulled BCG.
Stuffed a fired case in the chamber.
Put air in the muzzle with a compressor blow gun.
Felt for air from gas tube, while holding the case in there tight.

Had very little air coming out, gas tube was misaligned with port.
Pulled the tube and it was obvi, missing the port by half.  I just dremeled the tube opening a bit.  Still shooting that one.

Could be a number of things with yours.
Could just be tight parts.  How many rounds so far?
I would be pulling the buffer, looking for problems, but not swapping it out.  I wouldn’t swap any parts until I got it running.

Ruger should have a good warranty, but what a pain.  

I tried a PMAG and a Lancer magazine.  Not many rounds overall, it was the first time I'd taken it out to the range.  That compressor trick sounds like a good idea for diagnosis.

I’m absolutely no gunsmith but I can usually figure stuff out.  Another guy I shoot with clued me into the compressor thing.

I had a DPMS 308 16” that was behaving like yours.  I could never find an issue.  Mine was more intermittent, short stroked a few times a mag.  I just kept shooting it and tearing it apart, looking for problems.  Clean,lube, clean ,lube……Freaking oil dripping out lol.

About when I was ready to send it back, it just wore in I guess.  It just took about 150 rounds, then ran like a scalded ape.  Shot the hell out of that gun for years, then Ruger comes out with these.

Mine seems to be plenty accurate, but I only shot paper to sight in.
Our range is littered with plates and I like ringing them.

How much resistance the shooter provides can affect function when a semi auto is on the ragged edge of reliability.
Think limp-wristing a pistol but, in this case, it could be limp-shouldering.
Broken-in, it could have been farther from the edge.

Grrrrr.

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If you put a standard castle nut on the SFAR it would probably work.

Hmm. Might try that.

I meant end plate.

Without the QD socket, right? Just flat?

Im torn.  I would like  mild cheek riser.  I wonder if there is a stick on for the factory stock that might be worthwhile?

Go on Ruger's site and look at the new 6.5 CM SFAR.

It looks like Ruger put a standard plate and nut on there so they could install that Magpul stock.

I think thats exactly what they did.

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I had one in my hands yesterday. It looks like a winner. The factory Trigger was very good. I would guess around 2.5#. One thing that I did notice was the Recoil Spring is Stout. I noticed this re-cocking it to feel the trigger pull. I was impressed enough that I may end up owning one. Ryan (Hunt's Long Range) got in three, two for customers, and one to try out. I may get a chance to shoot one in the near future.

Bob R

If you are running a Riflespeed, please post the model and handguard you are running with it.

Part of me is wishing that I'd gotten the 20", instead of the 16, for some longer range.

I got the 20 just for 4 more inches away from that brake, but this thing solves that, with only a bit more recoil.

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I have the rifle speed.  G rail....mk16.  15"

That is an easy problem to solve.

Buy a second one.

It seems that this is generally a 1.5 to 2MOA rifle. Not sure why, but at that, it feels like this is a battle rifle and having that carbine length is just fine for that purpose. So for long range precision, this doesnt seem to be the right choice.

With the 308 you are probably only losing 100 fps, give or take, so it isn't all that big of a deal.  If you ever decide to add a suppressor you will appreciate the shorter length.

How are you adjusting? Does the adjustments stick out past the handguard?

Mine's like that, I replaced the buffer spring with a standard AR-15 rifle spring and it now works.

I will get a picture for you but adjusting it is not easy.  I think I will be swapping the HG for a 13.5''.

Anyone running this ammo? Anyone have any luck out of a 16" barrel with less than 150gr loads?
https://trueshotammo.com/ammunition/rifle-ammo/308-win/norma-ammo/norma-evostrike-308-win-139-grain-pt-bt-lead-free/

I run a 125grn handload @2900fps mostly through mine.  Have shot everything up to 190grn. It doesn't seem to care.

Pulled the trigger today on an SFAR to round out the battle rifle itch. Had a PSA-10 in 308 and G2 in 6.5 creed. Think both of them are going away with a bunch of other stuff I need to get rid of. May get the SFAR in creed when they come out.

Would love to build an upper for this in 8.6blk at some point. We will see where the aftermarket takes us with these.

The PWS UXR might give the SFAR a run for its money. I saw it mentioned that 308 might be 6.8 lbs, not officially though.

I run a 10.5” Midwest Industries Combat handguard with a Riflespeed RS7519.

ETA: this is with a 16” bbl on the SFAR

I had to have the barrel notched out so the RS could be pinned. It was shooting itself loose when using just the set screws.

At $2500?
You could get three SFARs for less than a UXR and caliber conversion, or two with $500 optics on each.
Now, if the folding stock and expensive optics are your jam, it might make sense.

That UXR looks like a G3 had it's way with a Springfield ATC.

Pics or did I miss them?

Looks like buds guns has the SFAR's on sale for under $900.  

Should I wait until some of the bugs get worked out....or are they good to go know?

Where do you see under $900? All around 960 for me.  Thanks

Sorry, you are right. I double checked and they are $965.  Not sure why I was thinking under $900.

But...my same question applies. Have all the bugs been worked out, or are they still having teething issues from new range reports?

I had the same issue with it shooting loose with just set screws. Haven’t gotten it pinned yet but that’s next on my list. Did you change the plunger on the rifle speed or going with the stock option? Factory buffer and spring or did you swap them out?

You get what you pay for ...  at least that's been my experience.

@firedog51d
MK16 list ID at 1.26"
Riflespeed OD 1.53"
Am I missing a spec somewhere? Or is the ID of the MK16 bigger in the P rail?

Riflespeed OD is 1.19", height is 1.53".  Height includes the gas tube protrusion, which fits into the channel that most handguards have for that purpose.

here is hte pics

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I shot the 6.5CM SFAR yesterday at the range.  I have to do some detailed looking at it (its mine, so there are more changes to come).  

So far:  

1.  The recoil is brutal for a 6.5CM.  My gun weighs 12 lbs with a magazine and optic, bipod, can, etc.   Much more than my Q fix weighed.  Its ass-kicking - even with the gas off so the bolt isn't running.   I will order headspace gauges and check it, as I suspect it might be a thing.   Think 6lb .308 bolt gun running 175'grainer recoil.  

2.  They appear to have done a better job with the barrel extension than in some of the pics I have seen of 308 SFARs.   The feed ramp cuts align with the receiver properly.  

3.  The factory gas block has no proper gas setting for suppressed use.   It utterly destroys brass on setting 2, so bad that i thought it might be unsafe to shoot after ejecting a chambered round and finding a gouge in the brass so deep it almost cut the casing open.  

4.  Changing the factory gas block for a SA was pretty easy.  The zero changed by 5 mils with the gas block change because the rail was no longer contacting the factory block.  

5.  The entire gun's accessories like the trigger, charging handle, surface finishes inside the upper and the receiver extension exude low build quality.  it feels like you are running a $400 ar when you run the charging handle.  It will smooth out, but a Smith and Wesson MP seems like a dream comparison wise.  The bolt and carrier seem very well made and finished so there is that at least.  

6.  Bore scoping mine was utterly unremarkable.  The gas hole looks good, crown, rifling, and chamber.   Chamber is straight and now has a chamfer so it fucks up brass less.  

7.  Once I dialed the gas in it shot 80 rounds without a hiccup with a can.  SA gas block set to restrictive mode.   The SA gas block didn't have enough blow off adjustment to be setup to BO.  

8.  With the SA gas block setup right the brass looked ok after shooting.  

9.  Groups were slowly shrinking as I shot it.   From 2moa to 1.8moa to 1.5moa and then finally 1moa.  Time will tell what I get there.  

10.  I'd post pics....but AR15.com can kiss the high-flavor part of my ass if they want me to pay them to make the content on their board better.  

We have different ideas on brutal recoil.  My 3 lb lighter 6.5 bolt gun is a pussycat, no brake.

Went out and shot it again today.   I have 12 6.5 creed rifles.  This gun recoils 4x more than any of them, including the much lighter Q fix.  

It was similar to the .300PRC Christensen MPR.

Interesting.  I will probably get a 6.5 when they hit our shelves.
Only have the one bolt gun in that caliber and I really like it.