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Posted: 3/30/2006 9:03:22 AM EDT
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I've looked at some stuff on the vortex - it says not to torque past 10lbs, and that it will tighten while firing. What about permanent attachment? Torgue it to 10lbs, then pin/weld? If it were a longer barrel I would drill it and fire it until it was tight then weld, but not with a 14.5. What to do? |
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Smith Vortex flash hiders are HARD. They don't drill nearly as easy as most other muzzle devices. Smith offers pre-drilled vortexes if you get them directly from them, but very few shops will actually stock these. Someone mentioned that PK does and I have them too. If your $20 Vortex is a real one, you got a good deal. As for permanent attaching it, plan on using a good carbide drill to drill it. I do regular permanent attach jobs for $20 including pre-drilled vortexes. Looking at $30 if I have to drill a hard vortex. Mongo drills vortexes as well. As for torque, just put it on at 15lbs and pin it. It's not going to self tighten, but it's also not going to move. Keep the mapp torch for plumbing, they don't belong on gun barrels and heat treated muzzle devices like a Vortex. |
Real vortexes do NOT have a "V" stamped on the flat. It is normal for there to be a 1/16" gap. The Smith G6A2 has a "Skirt" coming off the back to cover this gap. Maybe the old ones have a "V" stamped on them. I don't know, but I never heard of a stamped "V" before either. Take a file and try to scratch it. If you scratch the vortex, it's not a smith. If you scratch the file, it's a smith. |
I'm nowhere near Dallas, but I can certainly do it within a few days. I have drilled Vortex G6A2's in stock. $95 for the finished job if your barrel is already threaded. This includes the drilled Vortex, pin & weld and return shipping. See my customer feedback page for additional references. |
Sure looks like a G5 to me. I just have never seen the "V" stamp. The front radius looks right, tines look right. It does not have the groove on it for mounting a blank firing adapter or the skirt to cover the gap at the barrel. Other than that, looks fine. Is it HARD? Does it ring like a tuning fork if you tap one of the tines against something hard? |
Damaging the file was a joke, but it's good that it's hard and rings. I have not examined the clones, but I believe that they lack in the heat-treatment department. As for the G5, no skirt, but some had the groove. The flats on the G5 are usually not at the end like yours. This is probably a LOT older, like a G3 or G4. |
| 2nd post on page 9 of this topic has pictures of the different generations, or at least the G4, G5 & G6. |
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Madman, If you have a choice between having it done locally or sending it to Randal at AR-15Barrels.com you should send it to Randal. He has done barrel work for me in the past and it is first rate and reasonably priced. In my experience when you want a specialized piece of work done you're ALWAYS better off sending it to someone who specializes in that work. Even better when you have a forum like this with many members who will attest to the good work Randal does. |
I remove permanent muzzle devices when necessary, but the muzzle device is generally a complete loss. In other words, choose the handguard, front sight and muzzle device you want BEFORE you have it welded on. |
Or buy a 16" barrel. |
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