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Which SLR gas block part # did you install? Did you have to do any p rep or adjustments to the barrel to affix? View Quote No prep is necessary, but you will most likely need to remove your muzzle device. And my barrel journal is .750, and I chose the Melonite QPQ .400 spacing http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57_103&product_id=124 I did also purchase the barrel drilling jig, because I figured I would most likely be doing it to numerous AR's.... also depending on your gas length, and free float tube length.. I bought their 2mm Bondhaus adjustment tool. |
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Next weekend.... I will try and sit down and shoot ... slower, more methodical 5rd groups with the various ammos that show promise.
With a clean barrel... |
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You don't have to dimple a barrel, but it is added insurance against movement... I chose to dimple the barrel. No prep is necessary, but you will most likely need to remove your muzzle device. And my barrel journal is .750, and I chose the Melonite QPQ .400 spacing http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57_103&product_id=124 I did also purchase the barrel drilling jig, because I figured I would most likely be doing it to numerous AR's.... also depending on your gas length, and free float tube length.. I bought their 2mm Bondhaus adjustment tool. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Which SLR gas block part # did you install? Did you have to do any p rep or adjustments to the barrel to affix? No prep is necessary, but you will most likely need to remove your muzzle device. And my barrel journal is .750, and I chose the Melonite QPQ .400 spacing http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57_103&product_id=124 I did also purchase the barrel drilling jig, because I figured I would most likely be doing it to numerous AR's.... also depending on your gas length, and free float tube length.. I bought their 2mm Bondhaus adjustment tool. My SLR adj gas block is on its way and after I test my stock PSA, SS barrel ... maybe the Criterion (??). Need to slow down that bcg... marks from bolt face on chamber face after 30 rounds. Recoil seems stouter than it should be so the SLR should help fix this... Thanks !! |
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Semper Fi, and Oo-Rah Proudfather77 Btw... just for laughs... I took all the fired brass from all three tests and placed it in .30cal cans... 3 full+cans of once fired brass... and a quart container. 2/3's of a 5gal bucket. Lol. |
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I was spell checking and making my comments more reader friendly ( yes my writing can be spastic, I work with my hands... not type with them... no offense to anyone ) ... and realized I never said why I choose the Tubbs .308 Flatwire recoil spring.
It is because, it has added spring weight while the BCG is closed... and "normal" spring weight while compressed.... Also to heavy a spring will just move your nasty recoil to the breach face causing unwanted muzzle dip. Here are some spring weight measurements from David Tubbs... just food for thought. A2 (old / used) - 7.6lb closed, 14.5lb open A2 (new) - 9.1lb closed, 16.7lb open Tubb Flatwire - 10.5lb closed, 16.3lb open Tubb .308 Flatwire - 13lb closed, 16.7lb open SpringCo (White/standard) - 8.3lb closed, 16.3lb open SpringCo (Red/Enhanced) - 10.5lb closed, 18.4lb open SpringCo (Orange/Extra / .308) - 13.9lb closed, 24.8lb open Watch his video.. ( David Tubb ) Everything You Should Know About AR Buffer Springs |
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Do you have a link to the lapping tool you used on the receiver? I watched the video and couldn't find a Ar10 at brownell's only a ar15.
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Do you have a link to the lapping tool you used on the receiver? I watched the video and couldn't find a Ar10 at brownell's only a ar15. View Quote http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/ar-tools/10318-ar-15-upper-receiver-lapping-tool.html |
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Ummmm.... I am a dumb as... it was just brought to my attention, that I had never posted the Original OEM Nitrated barrel / Non Adjustable gas block groups... I had taken the time to get place holders however....
My apologies to everyone.... and I have reviewed every dang thing in this thread, and corrected my inept "posting" skills. SORRY ! ... The photos are now posted on the first page.. posts #11 and #12.... in the previously labelled "Place Holder" slots |
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So, I'm putting together a list of things to do before firing the first round, and making a document that I can print.
This thread is awesome! New SSA-E trigger should be here next week. PA-AR-10 GEN II Improvements 1.Clean and thoroughly lubricate (ALG Go-Juice is ideal) 2.Polishing/ burnishing -0000 Steel (Not much, just a few minutes worth) a.Inside of the buffer tube - spin down the buffer tube with a 0000 steel wool wrapped 12 gauge bore brush. b.Burnish the outside of the buffer tube as well. c.The disassembly pins. Burnished and lube. d.Burnish the interior of the magwell, lube. 3.USGI paracord trigger job - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yeasg5HNbnw 4.Gently polish the feed ramps. 5.Round out the breach end of the chamber with a little polishing compound on a 20guage bore mop attached to a spare rod piece spun by a low rpm drill. (more details?) 6.SLR adjustable gas block. 7.KAK 5.5 oz buffer. 8.Tubb AR 15 "CWS" Bolt Carrier Weight System. 9.Criterion Model 1018S-HYM-N...18"... 1-10 RH twist ... 5/8 x 24 threaded muzzle.... .750 gas journal... Mid length Gas system.... Criterion 308 WIN M118 chamber. |
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bcauzy3y
So, I'm putting together a list of things to do before firing the first round, and making a document that I can print. This thread is awesome! New SSA-E trigger should be here next week. PA-AR-10 GEN II Improvements Go mild with any burnishing... start with the magwell... that way you can see how little it takes to be effective. 1.Clean and thoroughly lubricate (ALG Go-Juice is ideal) Check 2.Polishing/ burnishing -0000 Steel (Not much, just a few minutes worth) Add a little Go juice for lube while burnishing a.Inside of the buffer tube - spin down the buffer tube with a 0000 steel wool wrapped 12 gauge bore brush. Feel inside with your finger... then as you burnish, stop, check and double check... some Go Juice added will help. Be SURE to mop out the buffer tube when you are done !! You don't want any fine strands of steelwool in there. b.Burnish the outside of the buffer tube as well. gently c.The disassembly pins. Burnished and lube. Check, clean after.. d.Burnish the interior of the magwell, lube. Check, clean after.. 3.USGI paracord trigger job - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yeasg5HNbnw You won't need to do this with the Geissele trigger... as a matter of fact I would NOT do it to the Geissele trigger. 4.Gently polish the feed ramps. Be sure not to fubar them... just smoothing sharp edges 5.Round out the breach end of the chamber with a little polishing compound on a 20guage bore mop attached to a spare rod piece spun by a low rpm drill. (more details?) I just gently took off the ...( so a 30second buff )... right at the breach edge that was leaving the odd case scratches ,you don't need to go deep into the chamber at all, maybe an 1/8"...... again... clean up after wards 6.SLR adjustable gas block. Check... I do strongly suggest the barrel jig they sell as well, it takes all the guess work out of the gas block istall...and buy the SLR "Med." length 2mm adjustment Boudhaus 7.KAK 5.5 oz buffer. Frankly... save that for after you shot it with the SLR gas block adjusted... you might not need it. 8.Tubb AR 15 "CWS" Bolt Carrier Weight System. No need for the CWS.. and they no longer make it. ----I probably meant to say the Tubbs .308 Flatwire spring, I would buy the spring and install it.. I grease mine. 9.Criterion Model 1018S-HYM-N...18"... 1-10 RH twist ... 5/8 x 24 threaded muzzle.... .750 gas journal... Mid length Gas system.... Criterion 308 WIN M118 chamber. Check, save this for last.... your OEM barrel might shoot great I will add ... if you don't want to buy the receiver face lapping tool... see if a local gunsmith has one. I think since Criterion recommends it..... it is worth doing. And use the Loctite 609 as per the video. Also be sure to check your gas tube and barrel nut clearance. |
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Any idea who makes the stainless Palmetto barrel? It just has Palmetto written on it...
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Lol ...
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This help on the AR10 is much, much needed and fires us up and motivates us to work together and share data ... And shoot with precision and confidence in upgraded .308's from someone that left no stone unturned and no expense spared.
Unfortunately my relationship with mr bfoosh6 is lopsided, with him doing ALL the work. When I try out my SLR adj gas block tomorrow, so my PSA PA10 stops thrashing itself as overgassed, I will be thinking of his spirited help and how I need to send him some ammo or something to say "thanks man" !! I do see the need to stock up on parts and Malaysian/DAG ... while we still can. |
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I also would like to know.... as well, as who makes the BCG's. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Any idea who makes the stainless Palmetto barrel? It just has Palmetto written on it... Maybe just ready to give the AR15 sight ins a break ... and roll for a nice 7.62 that is accurate for me, even before it's broken in and can live with overgassed and flawed in it's own small ways . |
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This help on the AR10 is much, much needed and fires us up and motivates us to work together and share data ... And shoot with precision and confidence in upgraded .308's from someone that left no stone unturned and no expense spared. Unfortunately my relationship with mr bfoosh6 is lopsided, with him doing ALL the work. When I try out my SLR adj gas block tomorrow, so my PSA PA10 stops thrashing itself as overgassed, I will be thinking of his spirited help and how I need to send him some ammo or something to say "thanks man" !! I do see the need to stock up on parts and Malaysian/DAG ... while we still can. View Quote And make sure your barrel likes the ammo you end up purchasing ! |
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This a fantastic thread! THANK YOU, for all the work you put into it!
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Hoping to be able to do some slow methodical accuracy shooting this weekend.
Got some more variety of ammo as well. I am going to say... the PSA has turned into a fine value of a rifle. Thank You PSA. |
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great thread, thanks for taking the time and posting all of your findings.
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Hoping to be able to do some slow methodical accuracy shooting this weekend. Got some more variety of ammo as well. I am going to say... the PSA has turned into a fine value of a rifle. Thank You PSA. View Quote |
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I appreciate your thread. I built a PA 10 last Spring after saving a couple of years to buy the parts. I had made a couple of videos about the assembly. I got pretty good support and response in my "Tech Section" thread I created on the build and shoot.
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I appreciate your thread. I built a PA 10 last Spring after saving a couple of years to buy the parts. I had made a couple of videos about the assembly. I got pretty good support and response in my "Tech Section" thread I created on the build and shoot. View Quote |
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@bfoosh06
Why the SLR adjustable gas block and not a different brand, such as the JP Enterprise, AR Stoner, or Wilson Combat brands? Or would any of these essentially work also? |
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@bfoosh06 Why the SLR adjustable gas block and not a different brand, such as the JP Enterprise, AR Stoner, or Wilson Combat brands? Or would any of these essentially work also? View Quote It is small and works like advertised. The 6.5CM upper will get a "Clamp-on" SLR adjustable. |
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Federal gold medal 168.
Out of the box, I’ve done nothing but clean and lube. Pic wont load off of my phone. I didn’t have a tape measure but right around 1” at 110 yards. |
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In the near future I’ll be getting an SLR gas block for mine. Would you recommend a set screw or clamp on style?
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I used the set screw types on the .308... mostly because it is intended to be a "truck gun". Remember I dimpled the barrel on all the .308's.
I will be using the clamp-on type on the 6.5CM upper... that one won't get anywhere near the abuse the .308 will.... the 6.5CM will spend most of its life at a bench. I am not implying a clamp-on is inferior... it just wasn't what I wanted on the rough and tumble .308. |
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I got the 6.5CM Upper... but it came with the wrong bolt and firing pin... and no retaining key for the FF rail.
I got a .308 Bolt and firing pin... same dimensions as my .308 upper's bolt and firing pin. Good news is, Fred at PSA is sending me the proper "High pressure/ small diameter firing pin bolt" and firing pin .. and retaining key. Very nice to see PSA be so prompt with the correction.... Thank You very much Fred ! So .... at this point... I want to know everyone's opinions on firing the 6.5CM with the .308 ( larger firing pin and hole ) bolt. Am I asking for problems ? I'd like to think it would be ok. Or should I wait for the "correct" bolt and firing pin... I will post other photos later.... gotta say, I like the barrel profile...good n' heavy. Gas tube makes just a tiny bit of contact with the barrel nut... not enough to be concerned. |
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I finally had a chance to shoot my PA10 rifle suppressed, and... it choked. It had a number of stovepipes in just three magazines fired. I fired the same ammunition unsuppressed for two mags without issue.
Should I go straight to a SLR adjustable gas block? Is it the "buy once, cry once" solution? |
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I finally had a chance to shoot my PA10 rifle suppressed, and... it choked. It had a number of stovepipes in just three magazines fired. I fired the same ammunition unsuppressed for two mags without issue. Should I go straight to a SLR adjustable gas block? Is it the "buy once, cry once" solution? View Quote |
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Subbed!
What does the rifle look like now OP? I found a pic on the last page but what pistol grip did you go with? Did you add the LaRue trigger? |
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New member here joined for this thread. Awesome OP just thought I would back you up on the stainless 18" barrel. My rifle is completely stock never cleaned it just lubed it up. I was shooting about 1.5 moa on a bad day for me. Hoping I can call it a 1 moa gun next outing. You are right to go back and focus with the malaysian l2a2 that is what im shooting tight with got one 3 shot group at 7/8". Can't wait for the 6.5 creedmoor info. Thanks again
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