Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
Posted: 3/25/2006 10:27:35 AM EDT
My house was built in 1887.The lumber is true spec not that modern nominal spec stuff. I need to add some 2x8 joist hangers to reinforce an area where the joist's were run lengthwise then end nailed to another set of joists running widthwise in the same room.Where can I find some hangers that are true 2x8 or is there a better way to reinforce?It's held solid for over 100 years but a bathroom with marble flooring and a clawfoot tub is in the works for that area and i'm concerned about the extra weight.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 10:42:48 AM EDT
Man, I've seen those damn things before... Strong Tie? Hmm, will give that some thought, but if Simpson doesn't make them you might have to go directly to a dealer specializing in antique housing.

Are you sure the joists need reinforcing? Only s tructural engineer can tell you load amounts, but I think airing on the side of caution is a good idea, even for a bathroom. Piece of mind, and all that.

A typical modern 2 x 8 is 1 3/4 by 7 3/4. Are you sure a standard joist hanger won't work? It might be worth the few bucks at HD to buy just one and give it a try. Just a thought.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 10:48:12 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/25/2006 10:48:36 AM EDT by The_Bricklayer]
You may be able to bend the standard ones to fit. It might be a PITA but it could work.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 10:56:47 AM EDT
Would ripping cleats from a 2x4 make make sense? I'd screw them into the joist ends and the running joist. Should do the trick nicely, no?

If you really want to use metal joist hangers, I believe they can be had for double joists. You just then need to cut fillers, but then you're back to my suggestion above. It would, however, be a real "belt and suspenders" approach.

Anyone who really knows what they are doing want to chime in on this one.

ps. I had a house built in 1907 that had hand-fitted true 2x10 joists. They were beautiful to look at.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 10:59:36 AM EDT
when I built my camp i used rought cut lumber and tried to bend the joist hangers to fit, it diden't work to good, i ended up trimming a 1/4 inch off eack floor joist, a real pita.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 11:02:36 AM EDT

Originally Posted By FatMan:
Would ripping cleats from a 2x4 make make sense? I'd screw them into the joist ends and the running joist. Should do the trick nicely, no?

If you really want to use metal joist hangers, I believe they can be had for double joists. You just then need to cut fillers, but then you're back to my suggestion above. It would, however, be a real "belt and suspenders" approach.

Anyone who really knows what they are doing want to chime in on this one.

ps. I had a house built in 1907 that had hand-fitted true 2x10 joists. They were beautiful to look at.



I like the cleats idea. I would use 2 by 6's, rather than 4's, just to give more surface fastening area.

Are these joists exposed?
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 11:09:05 AM EDT
No, their not exposed.Can you explain the cleats idea abit more.I'm not quite getting the picture in my head.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 11:14:20 AM EDT

Originally Posted By MadBodhi:
No, their not exposed.Can you explain the cleats idea abit more.I'm not quite getting the picture in my head.



I'll try. Right now, they run like this:


|----
|----
|----


A cleat would attach to the | joist, in between the ----
----

joists. Then, the cleat gets through bolted to the | joist with 2) 1/4" through bolts, and then attached to the ---- joists with long wood screws.

Link Posted: 3/25/2006 11:23:46 AM EDT
Do not bend or alter any joist hanger. You will compromise the designed load capability.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 11:31:38 AM EDT

Originally Posted By MadBodhi:
No, their not exposed.Can you explain the cleats idea abit more.I'm not quite getting the picture in my head.



Picture the joists as they are now. Where they join, they form 2 inside corners _!_

Cut a 2: x 2: block of wood and screw them into the inside corners. 2 screws into each side of the butt joist and 2 into the cross joist. Naturally, you'll have to stagger the screws. Construction adhesive might be nice too.

Make sense?
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 11:34:24 AM EDT

Originally Posted By FatMan:

Originally Posted By MadBodhi:
No, their not exposed.Can you explain the cleats idea abit more.I'm not quite getting the picture in my head.



Picture the joists as they are now. Where they join, they form 2 inside corners _!_

Cut a 2: x 2: block of wood and screw them into the inside corners. 2 screws into each side of the butt joist and 2 into the cross joist. Naturally, you'll have to stagger the screws. Construction adhesive might be nice too.

Make sense?



My explanation was better



Link Posted: 3/25/2006 11:42:25 AM EDT

Originally Posted By richardh247:

Originally Posted By FatMan:

Originally Posted By MadBodhi:
No, their not exposed.Can you explain the cleats idea abit more.I'm not quite getting the picture in my head.



Picture the joists as they are now. Where they join, they form 2 inside corners _!_

Cut a 2: x 2: block of wood and screw them into the inside corners. 2 screws into each side of the butt joist and 2 into the cross joist. Naturally, you'll have to stagger the screws. Construction adhesive might be nice too.

Make sense?



My explanation was better






LMAO. You're a faster typist too! Here's for us both in hopes that he understands one of us.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 11:54:20 AM EDT

Originally Posted By FatMan:

Originally Posted By richardh247:

Originally Posted By FatMan:

Originally Posted By MadBodhi:
No, their not exposed.Can you explain the cleats idea abit more.I'm not quite getting the picture in my head.



Picture the joists as they are now. Where they join, they form 2 inside corners _!_

Cut a 2: x 2: block of wood and screw them into the inside corners. 2 screws into each side of the butt joist and 2 into the cross joist. Naturally, you'll have to stagger the screws. Construction adhesive might be nice too.

Make sense?



My explanation was better






LMAO. You're a faster typist too! Here's for us both in hopes that he understands one of us.



He'll figure it out, one way or the other.

Suggestion:

If you don't understand what we are saying, have a contractor that does free estimates come out there. Tell him what you want, and then ask him EXACTLY what he'll be doing. Tell him you'll call him back after he leaves. Don't. Then do yourself what he was going to.

And PLEASE, do this only with a LARGE firm, not us small guys that can hardly afford the time to give estimates for those not serious. Most of the large guys have people that do nothing but estimating. It hurts us smaller guys big time.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 12:19:21 PM EDT
Simpson Strong-Tie Co does have a line of hangers for rough cut lumber. You should be able to order them through your local lumber yard, I doubt they would stock them.
www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/hangertables/face_ss_rough-df.html
Check out LU28R-18 or U26R
Please don't waste the time of a contractor, if you have no intention of hiring him.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 12:29:12 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT:
Simpson Strong-Tie Co does have a line of hangers for rough cut lumber. You should be able to order them through your local lumber yard, I doubt they would stock them.
www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/hangertables/face_ss_rough-df.html
Check out LU28R-18 or U26R
Please don't waste the time of a contractor, if you have no intention of hiring him.



I KNEW I had seen them before. Thank you.

And please, bro, don't get me wrong. I had to think long and hard about posting what I did. I am a contractor - it is how I make my living. Tire-kickers in the construction industry are a real detriment to my income.

I decided to offer it up as an option (I should NOT have used the word "suggestion") for the poster to leave to his conscience. When it comes right down to it, I'll help any Arfcom member, even if it means giving away a few secrets of the trade we practice.

I hope you are not upset, and I fully concur taking advantage of a free estimate with no intent to hire is a tactic best left to liberals who have no morals. I fucking HATE it when I know people have done that to me, and I don't wish it on anyone else.

But then again, there are days I do nothing with my time and am more than happy to help a homeowner out by informing them the job can be done themselves, rather than paying me for it. Hell, I do it here all the time. In fact, I have a thread going on this very thing, teaching people how to do a simple remodel.

I wasn't trying to hurt our pockets, just helping another member out.

In retrospect, it wasn't the brightest thing I've ever done. But I'll leave it up there so others know who you were addressing.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 12:48:31 PM EDT

Originally Posted By richardh247:

Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT:
Simpson Strong-Tie Co does have a line of hangers for rough cut lumber. You should be able to order them through your local lumber yard, I doubt they would stock them.
www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/hangertables/face_ss_rough-df.html
Check out LU28R-18 or U26R
Please don't waste the time of a contractor, if you have no intention of hiring him.



I KNEW I had seen them before. Thank you.

And please, bro, don't get me wrong. I had to think long and hard about posting what I did. I am a contractor - it is how I make my living. Tire-kickers in the construction industry are a real detriment to my income.

I decided to offer it up as an option (I should NOT have used the word "suggestion") for the poster to leave to his conscience. When it comes right down to it, I'll help any Arfcom member, even if it means giving away a few secrets of the trade we practice.

I hope you are not upset, and I fully concur taking advantage of a free estimate with no intent to hire is a tactic best left to liberals who have no morals. I fucking HATE it when I know people have done that to me, and I don't wish it on anyone else.

But then again, there are days I do nothing with my time and am more than happy to help a homeowner out by informing them the job can be done themselves, rather than paying me for it. Hell, I do it here all the time. In fact, I have a thread going on this very thing, teaching people how to do a simple remodel.

I wasn't trying to hurt our pockets, just helping another member out.

In retrospect, it wasn't the brightest thing I've ever done. But I'll leave it up there so others know who you were addressing.



No big deal........though I was surprised to here it from somebody I assummed to be a fellow contractor. I'm more than happy to give advice to those that ask. I'm a small contractor in a rural and fairly poor area, so I often work cheaper than I can afford as it is.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 1:03:56 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT:

Originally Posted By richardh247:

Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT:
Simpson Strong-Tie Co does have a line of hangers for rough cut lumber. You should be able to order them through your local lumber yard, I doubt they would stock them.
www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/hangertables/face_ss_rough-df.html
Check out LU28R-18 or U26R
Please don't waste the time of a contractor, if you have no intention of hiring him.



I KNEW I had seen them before. Thank you.

And please, bro, don't get me wrong. I had to think long and hard about posting what I did. I am a contractor - it is how I make my living. Tire-kickers in the construction industry are a real detriment to my income.

I decided to offer it up as an option (I should NOT have used the word "suggestion") for the poster to leave to his conscience. When it comes right down to it, I'll help any Arfcom member, even if it means giving away a few secrets of the trade we practice.

I hope you are not upset, and I fully concur taking advantage of a free estimate with no intent to hire is a tactic best left to liberals who have no morals. I fucking HATE it when I know people have done that to me, and I don't wish it on anyone else.

But then again, there are days I do nothing with my time and am more than happy to help a homeowner out by informing them the job can be done themselves, rather than paying me for it. Hell, I do it here all the time. In fact, I have a thread going on this very thing, teaching people how to do a simple remodel.

I wasn't trying to hurt our pockets, just helping another member out.

In retrospect, it wasn't the brightest thing I've ever done. But I'll leave it up there so others know who you were addressing.



No big deal........though I was surprised to here it from somebody I assummed to be a fellow contractor. I'm more than happy to give advice to those that ask. I'm a small contractor in a rural and fairly poor area, so I often work cheaper than I can afford as it is.



Yeah, same here, except in Phoenix, AZ. These hack assholes out there working for $25 an hour are KILLING me... I just can't compete. And then there are super large guys that just employ hacks. Either way, being both a professional that does the job right, and a professional with pride, seems to be a losing battle if you're like me and just can't bring yourself to either do sloppy work or rip people off.

So I feel no sympathy for the hacks that get bids with no intent to hire or constant callbacks. In Phoenix, there is 1 professional for every 200 hacks, I shit you not my friend. Hell, I pay my helpers more than most people pay their JW's, but that's because I have standards. My employees are an extension of my ethical practices, and finding them is hard enough. Getting quality help to do quality work in this state--where the fucking POS illegals take $4 an hour to dig a ditch--is next to impossible and costs more than I make, myself.

Maybe we should merge and chase the hacks out, and start demanding customers pay for the quality they get? I don't mind making a bad bid and eating my mistake, but I just can't compete with these wanna-be contractors that have fly-by-night operations, make $90k in their first year, and then disappear under another name the next year to avoid their callbacks.

Some people will never know quality and longevity, because all they see is the bottom line bid. Dumbasses.

Oh well... What can a guy do?
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 1:05:13 PM EDT
Get hangers made for LVL's and beams - they should fit the bill much better.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 1:18:02 PM EDT

Originally Posted By j-fonz:
Get hangers made for LVL's and beams - they should fit the bill much better.




+1 you just beat me to it, that's all!
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 7:34:04 PM EDT
Awesome.Thanks to all who replied.I'll check into special ordering the Strong-Tie rough cut hangers.The cleat idea is pretty slick too.I had no intention of asking for an appraisal ,getting them to tell me how they were going to do it and then do it myself.I realize it was suggested as a last recourse .I'm no saint,God and my mother certainly know that.But I try to be a decent person and while it may not be illegal it is certainly dishonest.
Link Posted: 3/25/2006 7:58:23 PM EDT
Do it the right way. Don't try to fill in the voids with small pieces of wood or try to alter joist hangers. Use the correct ones, with the correct fasteners. If you plan to add that substantial weight to the floor, you really might want to bring in a professional (either structural engineer, contractor, or architect) to see if you will need more reinforcing.


I hate to sound preachy, but it's a pet peeve of mine when things like this are half assed because it only comes back to bite you in the ass later.
Top Top