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Originally Posted By Tomva:
The article from Bisonballistics looks like an excellent survey. (I used to work for Dupont but don't have access to their files. I worked on Kevlar(TM) before I switched to shooting it! If you have any more reference articles I would love to see them.) Note that my test was done 500 C (932 F) which should be hot enough to get to the flat part of the curve cited even at 5 sec. Heat transfer from liquid (salt bath) to solid is generally much better than gas flame to solid (conduction vs convection) so 5 sec is probably enough time. The key conclusion I reached is that the brass annealing process is more complicated than the bulk property change model that everything I have found uses. The bulk property model assumes that the crystal structure is fully reversible (soft to hard to soft etc). Under repeated stress fatigue, my hypothesis is that microcrack growth becomes the controlling factor in brass failure. An excellent introduction to stress fatigue is infogalactic.com/info/Fatigue_(material). Short version: ONE heavy impact or MANY small impacts will both cause failure. Heat treating brass did not restore (for my test) the original stress strain curve - brass history is also important. View Quote Sigh...C vs F...damn detail got me again!!! But I see what you are saying. And you'll be hard pressed to find lake city brass that hasn't experienced impact damage. I think for a valid test you might want to start with a handful of new never fired cases to eliminate the potential damage you are seeing on LC brass. 10 cases new, anneal after every firing, 10 cases new, never anneal them. See how long they last. |
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I suspect (being careful since I don't have any data) that neck tension IS a bulk solid property of the brass hardness/ductility
such that it you can anneal for neck tension without helping life. Extended life seems to require control of two mechanisms. One thing I would like to understand is what technology Lapua is doing such that they can claim "... Lapua cases are manufactured to be reloaded, again and again, dozens of times.... " Sinclair Advertisement" Maybe secret alloy ingredient? There seems to be a consensus that Lapua > LC > FC in brass quality - ??? |
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You can anneal in the beginning or in the end depending on the condition of the brass, but either way you'll have different consequences. If you anneal before sizing you'll end up with a better straighter case. This is because you'll be sizing softened brass. If you anneal after sizing you'll end up with a stress free case for long term storage, but it will likely change in dimensions as the brass relaxes in the heat. Your bullet runout will be a lot higher. Also, seating pressure for your bullet will be a lot higher if you anneal as the final step. This is because annealing forms an oxide on the brass and this oxide increases friction on the bullet. You will likely damage bullet noses while seating if you use conventional neck tension settings like .002" etc.
I anneal before sizing. I use an induction annealer and a 650 deg tempilstik. I have very precise control that way. Over annealing causes accuracy problems, especially if your bullets have to jump into the lands. |
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Originally Posted By 918v:
You can anneal in the beginning or in the end depending on the condition of the brass, but either way you'll have different consequences. If you anneal before sizing you'll end up with a better straighter case. This is because you'll be sizing softened brass. If you anneal after sizing you'll end up with a stress free case for long term storage, but it will likely change in dimensions as the brass relaxes in the heat. Your bullet runout will be a lot higher. Also, seating pressure for your bullet will be a lot higher if you anneal as the final step. This is because annealing forms an oxide on the brass and this oxide increases friction on the bullet. You will likely damage bullet noses while seating if you use conventional neck tension settings like .002" etc. I anneal before sizing. I use an induction annealer and a 650 deg tempilstik. I have very precise control that way. Over annealing causes accuracy problems, especially if your bullets have to jump into the lands. View Quote I also anneal before sizing. |
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"What contemptible scoundrel has stolen the cork to my lunch!"
~ W.C. Fields ~ Just because I don't know what the hell I'm talking about doesn't mean I don't have an opinion... ~ AZ_Sky ~ |
I have always annealed with a torch and drill in a completely dark room going by glow and it has worked great. Great accuracy, consistent neck tension, no more split necks, low SDs and ESs but I have come to absolutely hate doing it.
This weekend, seating bullets in my 1x fired Lapua brass from two lots, I was having problems getting consistent seating depths due to varying neck tension. Annoyed, I said screw it and bought a machine. Doing it for 3 cartridges now I am not messing with that drill anymore. |
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MOA ALL DAY- 169 Arfcom rifles confirmed
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Originally Posted By BattleRife:
I used to have access to a metallographic lab and hardness testing. In fact, it was the fact that I had such access that made me think I should do a study on brass case life that included annealing. It was at that point that I looked into it and realized that annealing, as done by handloaders, was such a poorly understood procedure that I would have to do an annealing study to determine what process and parameters for annealing I should use in my case life study. Then I looked at it further and realized that none of processes in common use offered enough control that one could actually repeatably apply those specific parameters, and concluded that I would have to develop a completely different process that emphasized controllability and repeatability so that I could do my annealing study so that I could do my case life study! Unfortunately I had really just gotten past stage one when the small, locally owned company I worked for was bought out by a large, multi-national test and inspection corporation, and they brought in a policy that company assets could not be used for non-business purposes, no exceptions. Just like that I lost my access to the lab. It's too bad. I learned enough to convince me that almost all the knowledge commonly accepted by reloaders about case metallurgy and failures is wrong, but I wasn't able to compile enough data to publish a convincing arguement to that effect to the general public. Maybe some day. Here is a case neck well along the road to failure, all the annealing in the world won't help this one: http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii102/BattleRife/Brass%20Failures/SCC.jpg Somebody was asking about etchant, I eventually settled on 50% NH4OH + 50% distilled water, then you add a few drops hydrogen peroxide just before swabbing. The peroxide of course decays quickly so the etchant won't last any longer than a few hours before it needs to be remade. http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii102/BattleRife/Brass%20Failures/failcase3.jpg View Quote What handloaders understand about the process isn't relevant if the desired effect is achieved. Seems like some of you guys are over thinking this. Are you suggesting annealing is doing nothing and is a waste of time? |
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MOA ALL DAY- 169 Arfcom rifles confirmed
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It is when your doing it wrong.
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Originally Posted By 918v:
It is when your doing it wrong. View Quote I don't get split necks, I do get consistent seating/neck tension, I don't need to be baffled with bullshit as I am getting the desired results. My understanding of the science irrelevant, unless he was going to say "annealing does nothing, your positive results are figments of your imagination". I think the fear of over-annealing(the neck) is a bit over blown, I would bet this is causing people to heat for too little time and aren't doing anything but warming brass. I have annealed brass to the point it was soft enough that the die galled the brass, and yet after a few firings it work hardened again. Doesn't seem like it was ruined as we have been led to believe. |
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MOA ALL DAY- 169 Arfcom rifles confirmed
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Overly soft brass produces inaccurate ammo.
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MOA ALL DAY- 169 Arfcom rifles confirmed
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I have an AMP annealer. I have precise control over the heat applied to the case neck and shoulder. My accuracy load, for example, goes to shit if I increase annealing time by 10% over the optimum. Groups double or triple in size.
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Originally Posted By 918v:
I have an AMP annealer. I have precise control over the heat applied to the case neck and shoulder. My accuracy load, for example, goes to shit if I increase annealing time by 10% over the optimum. Groups double or triple in size. View Quote I wonder how much effect there would be on a load like a mine where I am using HBN coated bullets, partial neck sizing with .001 tension. There is very little hold on the bullet to begin with and the load was developed that way. |
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MOA ALL DAY- 169 Arfcom rifles confirmed
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I dunno, but I suspect that if you're running minimum neck tension and relying on the lands to increase/maintain start pressure then neck hardness plays a minimal role.
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Originally Posted By popnfresh:
... I don't need to be baffled with bullshit as I am getting the desired results. My understanding of the science irrelevant, unless he was going to say "annealing does nothing, your positive results are figments of your imagination". I think the fear of over-annealing(the neck) is a bit over blown, I would bet this is causing people to heat for too little time and aren't doing anything but warming brass. View Quote To a large extent, I agree. Firstly, at no point did I see anything that suggested annealing was worthless. It works, and it seems to do what most people expect it to do. Secondly, I recognized along the way that for the great majority of handloaders, that's all that matters. It would be a perfectly practical scenario to have only a handful of equipment manufacturers and book authors that were knowledgeable about the technical mechanisms. Those people could devise some solutions, publish them in books and everyone else could simply read and follow the recipe, and in fact that is more or less what is happening now. The problem comes when I pull up videos on Youtube where someone who claims he is going to show the world how to do it right is saying you have to drop the cases into a pail of hot water because if you use cold you will quench harden the brass. Or when someone comes into a forum and asks "what temperature rating of Tempilaq should I buy" (or some other straightforward question) and he gets 3 pages of internet opinions but not one definitive answer because there is no credible reference anyone can point at this is definitive. There is a ton of interest in annealing by handloaders now, much more than there was when I started loading, and I think there is a place for some real knowledge of the science of it. And, full disclosure, I am interested in trying to make some beer money by providing some solutions to what I see as the problems. Nextly, I agree wholeheartedly that the issue of over-annealing is overstated. I also have "ruined" a few cases, both intentionally and unintentionally, by heating well above the necessary temperature range, and so far none has had a shoulder collapse on seating a bullet, which to me is the only way it could be ruined. I don't know that dead-soft necks provide the best accuracy, probably not, but they do perform their basic duty of holding the bullet during loading and firing. Finally, to answer the original question, I throw my brass in a tumbler when I get home from the range, then I deprime and then anneal. As mentioned earlier, depriming is helpful in letting salt and water flow freely into and out of the cases. |
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I'm not quite ready for all this to archive, so I'm bumping it.
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To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical.
Thomas Jefferson, 3rd President of US (1743 - 1826) Be like Dave. In soviet amerika swamp drains you. - Kevv |
someone needs to make the pot insert so I don't have to
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Ballistic Recreations in Canada makes a really nice salt bath kit for a good price.
I’ve been using mine for a couple months now and I love it. For the price it’s probably the easiest and most repeatable way to anneal Click here |
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"Well done is better than well said." - Benjamin Franklin "Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin
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Originally Posted By AZ_Sky:
You may be correct, but most of us long range shooters will continue to anneal cases. I can't attest to whether or not annealing will extend the life of my cases because I don't anneal to extend the life of my cases, I use the annealing process as an attempt to reduce the neck tension variances after resizing. View Quote |
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"Peace has cost you your strength and victory has defeated you!"
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So simple, small footprint, low cost. I dont anneal yet but when I begin this is how I am going to do it
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@AZ_Sky thanks for sharing this!
I just ordered everything to do this. I wanted to add annealing to the process for my precision stuff and never liked the inconsistency of using a drill and a torch, and the machines were prohibitively expensive. The cost didn’t justify the benefit. I only plan on annealing my precision low volume stuff anyway and the salt method seems plenty efficient for that and way more precise! I ordered one of the case holders from http://ballisticrecreations.ca/ because I am lazy. Everything else was ordered elsewhere cheaper and everything total was less than $100. |
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Originally Posted By BuckeyeRifleman:
@AZ_Sky thanks for sharing this! I just ordered everything to do this. I wanted to add annealing to the process for my precision stuff and never liked the inconsistency of using a drill and a torch, and the machines were prohibitively expensive. The cost didn't justify the benefit. I only plan on annealing my precision low volume stuff anyway and the salt method seems plenty efficient for that and way more precise! I ordered one of the case holders from http://ballisticrecreations.ca/ because I am lazy. Everything else was ordered elsewhere cheaper and everything total was less than $100. View Quote No problem - but this thread is all because of a thread I ran across many years ago from member @BattleRife I am also a low volume annealer and this method has worked very very well for me! I am very glad to see http://ballisticrecreations.ca/ it didn't exist when I started my salt bath endeavor... |
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"What contemptible scoundrel has stolen the cork to my lunch!"
~ W.C. Fields ~ "If a nation expects to be ignorant and free and live in a state of civilization, it expects what never was and never will be." ~ Thomas Jefferson ~ |
That is terrific info you put together. I’ve been considering getting into annealing. I’ve just got my first 6.5 CM and I am hooked! I’m seriously wanting to neck turn as well but not set up for it yet. I’ve built some 143 gr ELDX loads I’m pretty happy with getting an average FPS of 2803. Out of 5 round strings. But now I really have the 6.5 fever.
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Originally Posted By dyezak:
I know you don't apply the emissivity value like that...if you did my $20 handheld laser thermometer would measure my room temp (68F) brass sitting here next to me somewhere between 2F and 41F. Funny thing...this $20 laser is telling me my 68F brass is 68F (the brass has been sitting in my 68F house for weeks). Even if there were significant deviation at elevated temperature, you just need calibration. For instance if my laser reads 400F when the brass is 750F that's fine, as long as it does it every single time in a repeatable way. You lose some resolution capability, but really, you don't need incredible levels of detail anyway. I know that emissivity certainly affects IR laser temperature readings...but I also know as a fact the impact isn't anywhere near what you describe. ETA - I just came across an engineering study where they explain how emissivity impacts ir temp measurement equipment. There's tons of formulas in there, but the one on application of emissivity states: Q = esT(4) where: Q = radiation intensity e = emissivity of material s = Stefan-Boltzmann constant T = absolute temperature In their test example they were using a piece of stainless steel, emissivity of 0.12, baked at 175F and their standard meter measured it at 84F. That same meter measured the sample as 1600F when it was really 2000F. There's a catch to emissivity however, it depends on the specific wavelength of light naturally emitted/reflected by the subject material itself. And as you see the example above as the material starts to turn/radiate red itself from heat this color shift also impacts the light reflectivity. The closer to the IR spectrum the material's color is (i.e. the redder the material is naturally) the less emissivity impacts the reading. And if you match the IR Laser's wavelength to that of the material being measured, emissivity is effectively a non-factor. That formula looks like: lmax = b / T where: lmax = peak wavelength of radiant energy b = 2897 micron / °K T = temperature (Kelvin) When they matched the wavelength of the material itself in the 2000F test case (0.12 emissivity), they got a reading of 1950F. 97.5% accurate. That's with no calibration for emissivity. Once calibrated for a 0.12 they got 1998F. Now, I have no way of measuring the reflected wavelength of light off of brass casings without starting a whole new project...BUT, with my $20 chinese laser and a piece of brass sitting right here I can infer the gold color of the brass shifts the reflected light closer to the red/IR spectrum and gives me pretty freaking good readings at room temp. BUTx2 - the deviation factor is (in the simplest terms) a sine wave, which means it may be imperceptible at room temp, but at 750F it might be pretty evident. BUTx3 - that can be easily tested by using a second temp measuring device and calibrating my reading (which won't be off by 728F like stated previously...). Conclusion - It's something for me to take into account with calibration but won't prevent the implementation of the idea. Thank you for pointing out why my readings *will* be off when I build my control circuit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dyezak:
Originally Posted By Happy2shoot:
Use this chart to adjust the emissivity of your IR thermometer if you can: http://www.infrared-thermography.com/material.htm Notice the change from "highly polished brass" to "oxidized brass" is 0.03 to 0.61! Example: Actual temperature (unknown to you) 750 F "highly polished brass" would display 22.5 F "oxidized brass" would display 457.5 F This is the reason why tempilaq and thermocouples still exist. Even if there were significant deviation at elevated temperature, you just need calibration. For instance if my laser reads 400F when the brass is 750F that's fine, as long as it does it every single time in a repeatable way. You lose some resolution capability, but really, you don't need incredible levels of detail anyway. I know that emissivity certainly affects IR laser temperature readings...but I also know as a fact the impact isn't anywhere near what you describe. ETA - I just came across an engineering study where they explain how emissivity impacts ir temp measurement equipment. There's tons of formulas in there, but the one on application of emissivity states: Q = esT(4) where: Q = radiation intensity e = emissivity of material s = Stefan-Boltzmann constant T = absolute temperature The Stefan–Boltzmann constant (also Stefan's constant), a physical constant denoted by the Greek letter s (sigma), is the constant of proportionality in the Stefan–Boltzmann law: "the total intensity radiated over all wavelengths increases as the temperature increases", of a black body which is proportional to the fourth power of the thermodynamic temperature.[1] There's a catch to emissivity however, it depends on the specific wavelength of light naturally emitted/reflected by the subject material itself. And as you see the example above as the material starts to turn/radiate red itself from heat this color shift also impacts the light reflectivity. The closer to the IR spectrum the material's color is (i.e. the redder the material is naturally) the less emissivity impacts the reading. And if you match the IR Laser's wavelength to that of the material being measured, emissivity is effectively a non-factor. That formula looks like: lmax = b / T where: lmax = peak wavelength of radiant energy b = 2897 micron / °K T = temperature (Kelvin) When they matched the wavelength of the material itself in the 2000F test case (0.12 emissivity), they got a reading of 1950F. 97.5% accurate. That's with no calibration for emissivity. Once calibrated for a 0.12 they got 1998F. Now, I have no way of measuring the reflected wavelength of light off of brass casings without starting a whole new project...BUT, with my $20 chinese laser and a piece of brass sitting right here I can infer the gold color of the brass shifts the reflected light closer to the red/IR spectrum and gives me pretty freaking good readings at room temp. BUTx2 - the deviation factor is (in the simplest terms) a sine wave, which means it may be imperceptible at room temp, but at 750F it might be pretty evident. BUTx3 - that can be easily tested by using a second temp measuring device and calibrating my reading (which won't be off by 728F like stated previously...). Conclusion - It's something for me to take into account with calibration but won't prevent the implementation of the idea. Thank you for pointing out why my readings *will* be off when I build my control circuit. This 'super-exponent' makes even small changes in the temperature have a large impact. And do not forget units must be consistent so the temperature is in Kelvin. Absolute centigrade scale. [K] = [°C] + 273.15 |
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For those of you guys making the salt annealer case holders or using the round ones
what is the diameter of the top circle? bottom circle? |
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Proud Member of Team Ranstad
NRA Tennessee Squire RIP WMD |
You mean for the Lee pot?
Top would be roughly 3.150 Bottom would be roughly 2.870 |
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"What contemptible scoundrel has stolen the cork to my lunch!"
~ W.C. Fields ~ "If a nation expects to be ignorant and free and live in a state of civilization, it expects what never was and never will be." ~ Thomas Jefferson ~ |
Originally Posted By AZ_Sky:
Here's how I made mine: http://a4.pbase.com/o9/72/325172/1/164723550.6zSEguSW.CaseAnnealerInsertAnnotate.jpg http://a4.pbase.com/o9/72/325172/1/164723552.fM7lzDFL.Plates.JPG http://a4.pbase.com/o9/72/325172/1/164385735.VuAlPXV2.SaltBathAnneal_5r.jpg View Quote |
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Originally Posted By NDT3:
That is awesome. Thanks for posting that. Really appreciate it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By NDT3:
That is awesome. Thanks for posting that. Really appreciate it. Just a note: the holes and plate spacing on mine is for a 6.5CM case, you may need to adjust the holes and spacers for whatever case you are using... |
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"What contemptible scoundrel has stolen the cork to my lunch!"
~ W.C. Fields ~ "If a nation expects to be ignorant and free and live in a state of civilization, it expects what never was and never will be." ~ Thomas Jefferson ~ |
Originally Posted By AZ_Sky:
@NDT3 Just a note: the holes and plate spacing on mine is for a 6.5CM case, you may need to adjust the holes and spacers for whatever case you are using... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By AZ_Sky:
Originally Posted By NDT3:
That is awesome. Thanks for posting that. Really appreciate it. Just a note: the holes and plate spacing on mine is for a 6.5CM case, you may need to adjust the holes and spacers for whatever case you are using... |
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Proud Member of Team Ranstad
NRA Tennessee Squire RIP WMD |
Originally Posted By AZ_Sky:
Here's how I made mine: http://a4.pbase.com/o9/72/325172/1/164723550.6zSEguSW.CaseAnnealerInsertAnnotate.jpg http://a4.pbase.com/o9/72/325172/1/164723552.fM7lzDFL.Plates.JPG http://a4.pbase.com/o9/72/325172/1/164385735.VuAlPXV2.SaltBathAnneal_5r.jpg View Quote thank you! |
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Proud Member of Team Ranstad
NRA Tennessee Squire RIP WMD |
Got my salt bath annealing kit up and running. Works pretty damn well.
As an FYI, I actually drilled holes and bolted my lee pot to my workbench. The thought of accidentally tripping/pulling on the power cord and spilling 500 C fluid all over me, not to mention the fire hazard scared the fuck out of me. |
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I deal with alot of metal suppliers for work, including a few with laser, plasma, and waterjet cutters.
If there is any interest I can see what it would cost to get a bunch of those top and bottom plates cut...as in like a group buy type thing? They would have proper OD and the various holes for the cases, thermometer, and mounting screws. I even have a few design change ideas... just food for thought if there is any interest |
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Proud Member of Team Ranstad
NRA Tennessee Squire RIP WMD |
Originally Posted By Panther1911:
I deal with alot of metal suppliers for work, including a few with laser, plasma, and waterjet cutters. If there is any interest I can see what it would cost to get a bunch of those top and bottom plates cut...as in like a group buy type thing? They would have proper OD and the various holes for the cases, thermometer, and mounting screws. I even have a few design change ideas... just food for thought if there is any interest View Quote I could do it all myself, but would happily buy a few if done right. |
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Originally Posted By mikenmaryland:
this coming from someone with bush in the avatar..lol |
How thick should the round pieces be?
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Proud Member of Team Ranstad
NRA Tennessee Squire RIP WMD |
Bump to keep out of Archives
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To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical.
Thomas Jefferson, 3rd President of US (1743 - 1826) Be like Dave. In soviet amerika swamp drains you. - Kevv |
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