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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:50:13 AM EST
Getting a grinding when I'm not even braking, then it sounds like sandpaper rubbing against sandpaper when I am braking. Pads seem to have some decent thickness left to them, except the one in the back seems to be wearing faster? Thinking its the rotors? Replace pads too?
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:51:21 AM EST
[#1]
what is the min spec for them?
tape measure doesn't tell you much without that ETA: they look like smashed asshole regardless |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:52:00 AM EST
[#2]
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders?
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:52:36 AM EST
[#3]
The inner side of the rotor seems to have a lot of corrosion. Have you looked at the backside of that rotor for corrosion/pitting on the face?
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:52:36 AM EST
[#4]
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:53:39 AM EST
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders? |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:54:40 AM EST
[#6]
Looks like typical GM rusty rotor. YMMV.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:55:47 AM EST
[#7]
Does the inboard pad have a metal tab that's contacting the rotor?
If so, there's your noise. They do that by design to let you know it's time for service. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:57:54 AM EST
[#8]
Are you a beach lifeguard? That's a lot of rust!
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:58:48 AM EST
[#9]
Looks like the inside of the rotors have nasty rust ridges, which would explain your noise, without any evidence of metal to metal or worn out brakes. Pull the caliper and check the backside of those rotors. I wouldn't be surprised if you had pitting/rust on the actual rotor surface too.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:58:58 AM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does the inboard pad have a metal tab that's contacting the rotor? If so, there's your noise. They do that by design to let you know it's time for service. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 10:59:37 AM EST
[#11]
Caliper hanging up possibly? Take off the caliper and Greese the slide bolts and the slide brackets on the caliper bracket.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:00:08 AM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are you a beach lifeguard? That's a lot of rust! |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:01:27 AM EST
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:02:03 AM EST
[#14]
Change it all.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:03:01 AM EST
[#15]
Working on taking off the pads and rotors now. 17mm bolts are being a bear. Ill take some pics after. The back side pads do have a metal piece on the back of them is that the noise?
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:03:34 AM EST
[#16]
Pony up and get new pads and rotors.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:04:08 AM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sweet rotors, pads, lines, calipers and master every 20k miles sounds smart to me. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:05:23 AM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders? |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:05:55 AM EST
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Working on taking off the pads and rotors now. 17mm bolts are being a bear. Ill take some pics after. The back side pads do have a metal piece on the back of them is that the noise? Your rotors look like crap, but I wouldn't bother taking them off, they are mechanically probably just fine. Your inside pad is rubbing a little more than it should, you might clean and grease up the pins that the caliper rides on so that you get more even wear, but other than that you are probably fine. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:06:05 AM EST
[#20]
that's not the way you measure rotors
without knowing what kind of vehicle you are working on, replace the pads and rotors |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:06:46 AM EST
[#21]
Looks like your inside pad is dragging and the shit coming off of it is building up on the outer edge of the rotor.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:07:48 AM EST
[#22]
The tab is usually more of a squeak but it can be grind-like. Replace rotors and pads, brake lube on the caliper pins and ensure caliper is free. If that doesnt fix your issue you likely have a bearing problem. Is the noise different when turning?
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:08:08 AM EST
[#23]
Are you getting any pulsating when you apply the brakes? You could always take the pads to a decent shop and have them turned or check and see if they need to be replaced. I would go to a NAPA,(not sure what decent place you have near you), and they could check them out.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:10:04 AM EST
[#24]
dragging caused by sliding pins not being lubed right? Also a 2014 Mazda 6.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:12:05 AM EST
[#25]
Get new pads, rotors and calipers.
I'm betting you have a seized caliper, it more than likely trashed that rotor. My jeep did it, warped the shit out of a new rotor. We have a local auto store that sells good stuff cheap, I just replace the pads and rotors everytime and calipers as needed |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:12:44 AM EST
[#26]
Look good to me.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:13:11 AM EST
[#27]
Ahhhhhh your pads do not have some decent thickness or whatever you said. They are shot. That inside one is dead Jim.
New pads and rotors. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:13:15 AM EST
[#28]
Those pads do not look like decent thickness IMO.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:14:46 AM EST
[#29]
Quoted:
Getting a grinding when I'm not even braking, then it sounds like sandpaper rubbing against sandpaper when I am braking. Pads seem to have some decent thickness left to them, except the one in the back seems to be wearing faster? Thinking its the rotors? Replace pads too? https://image.ibb.co/fvgdHQ/IMG_20170823_112653.jpg https://image.ibb.co/kM4yHQ/IMG_20170823_114512.jpg https://image.ibb.co/gov5xQ/IMG_20170823_112701.jpg After removing the calipers, you will probably notice that the calipers are difficult or impossible to retract. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:15:22 AM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That inside pad looks totally shot, and I agree I bet the tab is rubbing on that pad Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Does the inboard pad have a metal tab that's contacting the rotor? If so, there's your noise. They do that by design to let you know it's time for service. The rotors look fine. Since you already have the wheel off, replace the pads. So what if there's 25% of pad life left - that's maybe $20 worth of pad. I buy OEM pads on Ebay for about $35 or so. They come with the correct shims. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:15:54 AM EST
[#31]
Forget about turning rotors unless you know a guy. They are just as likely to screw it up,and new ones are almost as cheap.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:20:42 AM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Forget about turning rotors unless you know a guy. They are just as likely to screw it up,and new ones are almost as cheap. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:22:19 AM EST
[#33]
The caliper piston should move in easily with a big C clamp or piston retractor tool. If so the sliding caliper may be jammed , rust and dirt builds up where they slide and does it. That causes a lot of uneven brake pad wear, noisey brakes even when not stopping. Clean the slide surfaces and lube with the recommended lube, don't just use any grease or anti seize unless that's what that system calls for. Most will call for a lithium lube of some sort. Find out which one it is and use it. Of course if your piston does not move easily, binds or gets crooked, you'll have to change the caliper.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:22:19 AM EST
[#34]
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:24:15 AM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't be so cheap, I replace the entire car. Safety first! 
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:25:04 AM EST
[#36]
Inside pad is shot.
Possibly damaged rotor. Must check minimum rotor thickness with a micrometer or vernier caliper. Ideally check runout also. Personally I would just replace the rotors. The sliders are probably seized. If they are replace them and lubricate them with a silicone grease such as Sil-Glyde. If the rotor overheated it may have also overheated the caliper. I would ensure that the piston moves freely otherwise I would replace the caliper. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and should be replaced every 24 months. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:25:05 AM EST
[#37]
In the second pic the outer pad looks thinner at the bottom than the top, probably a hung up caliper, either the piston or the works it slides on.
As far as the rotor, these days they are cheap for ones without old school bearings so I would just replace it, but it appears it could be turned. Without using a caliper to confirm, you usually can cut them until that bevel on the rotor edge disappears.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:27:12 AM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way. https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:27:23 AM EST
[#39]
Pins look a little dry to me too right?
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:28:26 AM EST
[#40]
Inside pad = caliper hanging, could be slides or piston. Piston will usually rip your car to that side. Slides will usually just wear uneven.
Rotor = that thing is fine, you live in the NE Pads = they make noise, even when material is left |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:28:54 AM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way. https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:29:13 AM EST
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way. https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:29:14 AM EST
[#43]
How big is your hammer? Try a 4 lb mini sledge and strike on a piece of 2x4 between the hammer and rotor to prevent damaging the rotor.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:29:39 AM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The rotor is rusted on the hub. Spray some shit there and beat on the back with a heavy hammer, it will come off. Beat the fuck out of it on the face between the studs. The hole in the rotor is threaded to run a bolt into to jack the rotor away from the hub face. Beating the fuck out of it is easier. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:29:55 AM EST
[#45]
Spray the hub with PB Blaster. Liberally. Beat with hammer.
It looks like you have a threaded hole to push the rotor off with a screw. I want to see the inside of the rotor. I bet it's garbage. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:30:45 AM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way. https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:32:40 AM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way. https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg Buy a Service Manual. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:32:57 AM EST
[#48]
Do not listen to the people telling you to beat the rotor on the sides. Your rotor is fine, do not damage it. The hub face of the rotor between the studs is where it needs to be smashed with a hammer. Light taps to the rim of the rotor are okay.
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:33:33 AM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Jesus tittyfucking Christ. WHY remove the caliper bracket? Pull ONE pin & swing the caliper. Buy a Service Manual. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:35:01 AM EST
[#50]
Now that I see in the other pics those pads actually slide in the holder. Dirt and rust gets under those clips and jams the pads, thats where you need to clean.
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