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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:50:13 AM EDT
Getting a grinding when I'm not even braking, then it sounds like sandpaper rubbing against sandpaper when I am braking. Pads seem to have some decent thickness left to them, except the one in the back seems to be wearing faster? Thinking its the rotors? Replace pads too?



Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:51:21 AM EDT
[#1]
what is the min spec for them?

tape measure doesn't tell you much without that

ETA: they look like smashed asshole regardless
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:52:00 AM EDT
[#2]
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders?
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:52:36 AM EDT
[#3]
The inner side of the rotor seems to have a lot of corrosion. Have you looked at the backside of that rotor for corrosion/pitting on the face?
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:52:36 AM EDT
[#4]
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:53:39 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders?
View Quote
+1. Happened to me. After a short drive all the rotors were cool execpt for one which was smoking hot.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:54:40 AM EDT
[#6]
Looks like typical GM rusty rotor. YMMV.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:55:47 AM EDT
[#7]
Does the inboard pad have a metal tab that's contacting the rotor?
If so, there's your noise.

They do that by design to let you know it's time for service.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:57:54 AM EDT
[#8]
Are you a beach lifeguard?  That's a lot of rust!
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:58:48 AM EDT
[#9]
Looks like the inside of the rotors have nasty rust ridges, which would explain your noise, without any evidence of metal to metal or worn out brakes.  Pull the caliper and check the backside of those rotors.  I wouldn't be surprised if you had pitting/rust on the actual rotor surface too.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:58:58 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Does the inboard pad have a metal tab that's contacting the rotor?
If so, there's your noise.

They do that by design to let you know it's time for service.
View Quote
That inside pad looks totally shot, and I agree I bet the tab is rubbing on that pad
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:59:37 AM EDT
[#11]
Caliper hanging up possibly? Take off the caliper and Greese the slide bolts and the slide brackets on the caliper bracket.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:00:08 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Are you a beach lifeguard?  That's a lot of rust!
View Quote
OP is in NH. I imagine tons of road salt.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:01:27 PM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic.
View Quote
Sweet rotors, pads, lines, calipers and master every 20k miles sounds smart to me.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:02:03 PM EDT
[#14]
Change it all.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:03:01 PM EDT
[#15]
Working on taking off the pads and rotors now. 17mm bolts are being a bear. Ill take some pics after. The back side pads do have a metal piece on the back of them is that the noise?
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:03:34 PM EDT
[#16]
Pony up and get new pads and rotors.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:04:08 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Sweet rotors, pads, lines, calipers and master every 20k miles sounds smart to me.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic.
Sweet rotors, pads, lines, calipers and master every 20k miles sounds smart to me.
Don't be so cheap, I replace the entire car. Safety first!
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:05:23 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders?
View Quote
My money is on this.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:05:55 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Working on taking off the pads and rotors now. 17mm bolts are being a bear. Ill take some pics after. The back side pads do have a metal piece on the back of them is that the noise?
View Quote
Yes, it's a metal tab that rubs on the rotor to specifically make the sound that you are hearing.  It is an annoying sound that lets you know that it is time to replace the pads before real damage is caused.

Your rotors look like crap, but I wouldn't bother taking them off, they are mechanically probably just fine.  Your inside pad is rubbing a little more than it should, you might clean and grease up the pins that the caliper rides on so that you get more even wear, but other than that you are probably fine.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:06:05 PM EDT
[#20]
that's not the way you measure rotors


without knowing what kind of vehicle you are working on, replace the pads and rotors
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:06:46 PM EDT
[#21]
Looks like your inside pad is dragging and the shit coming off of it is building up on the outer edge of the rotor.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:07:48 PM EDT
[#22]
The tab is usually more of a squeak but it can be grind-like. Replace rotors and pads, brake lube on the caliper pins and ensure caliper is free. If that doesnt fix your issue you likely have a bearing problem.  Is the noise different when turning?
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:08:08 PM EDT
[#23]
Are you getting any pulsating when you apply the brakes? You could always take the pads to a decent shop and have them turned or check and see if they need to be replaced. I would go to a NAPA,(not sure what decent place you have near you), and they could check them out.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:10:04 PM EDT
[#24]
dragging caused by sliding pins not being lubed right? Also a 2014 Mazda 6.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:12:05 PM EDT
[#25]
Get new pads, rotors and calipers.

I'm betting you have a seized caliper, it more than likely trashed that rotor.

My jeep did it, warped the shit out of a new rotor.

We have a local auto store that sells good stuff cheap, I just replace the pads and rotors everytime and calipers as needed
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:12:44 PM EDT
[#26]
Look good to me.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:13:11 PM EDT
[#27]
Ahhhhhh your pads do not have some decent thickness or whatever you said. They are shot. That inside one is dead Jim. 

New pads and rotors. 
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:13:15 PM EDT
[#28]
Those pads do not look like decent thickness IMO. 
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:14:46 PM EDT
[#29]
Quoted:
Getting a grinding when I'm not even braking, then it sounds like sandpaper rubbing against sandpaper when I am braking. Pads seem to have some decent thickness left to them, except the one in the back seems to be wearing faster? Thinking its the rotors? Replace pads too?

https://image.ibb.co/fvgdHQ/IMG_20170823_112653.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/kM4yHQ/IMG_20170823_114512.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/gov5xQ/IMG_20170823_112701.jpg
View Quote
I had a Mazda with the same symptoms you just described. The rear brake calipers were frozen. You should replace the calipers (or rebuild if you know how to do that) and pads. 
After removing the calipers, you will probably notice that the calipers are difficult or impossible to retract.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:15:22 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
That inside pad looks totally shot, and I agree I bet the tab is rubbing on that pad
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:

Does the inboard pad have a metal tab that's contacting the rotor?
If so, there's your noise.

They do that by design to let you know it's time for service.
That inside pad looks totally shot, and I agree I bet the tab is rubbing on that pad
^ We have a winner.  The tab shouldn't be rubbing.  They may be aftermarket shims, with tabs that are too long. 

The rotors look fine. 

Since you already have the wheel off, replace the pads.  So what if there's 25% of pad life left - that's maybe $20 worth of pad.
I buy OEM pads on Ebay for about $35 or so.  They come with the correct shims. 
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:15:54 PM EDT
[#31]
Forget about turning rotors unless you know a guy. They are just as likely to screw it up,and new ones are almost as cheap.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:20:42 PM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Forget about turning rotors unless you know a guy. They are just as likely to screw it up,and new ones are almost as cheap.
View Quote
I usually just buy new ones, but I did take some rotors to a brake shop to turn down. The labor cost wasn't too high. I didn't know anyone there or received advice to go there. I got them back and they were definitely turned down. I just cleaned them with brake cleaner before putting them on and there were fine.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:22:19 PM EDT
[#33]
The caliper piston should move in easily with a big C clamp or piston retractor tool. If so the sliding caliper may be jammed , rust and dirt builds up where they slide and does it. That causes a lot of uneven brake pad wear, noisey brakes even when not stopping. Clean the slide surfaces and lube with the recommended lube, don't just use any grease or anti seize unless that's what that system calls for. Most will call for a lithium lube of some sort. Find out which one it is and use it. Of course if your piston does not move easily, binds or gets crooked, you'll have to change the caliper.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:22:19 PM EDT
[#34]
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way.


Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:24:15 PM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Don't be so cheap, I replace the entire car. Safety first!
View Quote
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:25:04 PM EDT
[#36]
Inside pad is shot.
Possibly damaged rotor.
Must check minimum rotor thickness with a micrometer or vernier caliper.
Ideally check runout also.

Personally I would just replace the rotors.
The sliders are probably seized.
If they are replace them and lubricate them with a silicone grease such as Sil-Glyde.

If the rotor overheated it may have also overheated the caliper.
I would ensure that the piston moves freely otherwise I would replace the caliper.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and should be replaced every 24 months.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:25:05 PM EDT
[#37]
In the second pic the outer pad looks thinner at the bottom than the top, probably a hung up caliper, either the piston or the works it slides on.

As far as the rotor, these days they are cheap for ones without old school bearings so I would just replace it, but it appears it could be turned. Without using a caliper to confirm, you usually can cut them until that bevel on the rotor edge disappears.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:27:12 PM EDT
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way.

https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg
View Quote
The rotor is rusted on the hub. Spray some shit there and beat on the back with a heavy hammer, it will come off.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:27:23 PM EDT
[#39]
Pins look a little dry to me too right?

Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:28:26 PM EDT
[#40]
Inside pad = caliper hanging, could be slides or piston.  Piston will usually rip your car to that side.  Slides will usually just wear uneven.
Rotor = that thing is fine, you live in the NE
Pads = they make noise, even when material is left
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:28:54 PM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way.

https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg
View Quote
Oh it will come off. Hit it on opposite sides, at about eight oclock and two oclock on your picture.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:29:13 PM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way.

https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg
View Quote
Run the right size bolt into that hole, it will pop right off. I don't remember the size however sorry. Maybe you can go to the parts store and try bolts on a new rotor to get the correct size. You don't want to mess up the old rotor with the wrong bolt
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:29:14 PM EDT
[#43]
How big is your hammer?   Try a 4 lb mini sledge and strike on a piece of 2x4 between the hammer and rotor to prevent damaging the rotor.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:29:39 PM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


The rotor is rusted on the hub. Spray some shit there and beat on the back with a heavy hammer, it will come off.
View Quote
No.

Beat the fuck out of it on the face between the studs.  The hole in the rotor is threaded to run a bolt into to jack the rotor away from the hub face.  Beating the fuck out of it is easier.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:29:55 PM EDT
[#45]
Spray the hub with PB Blaster. Liberally. Beat with hammer.

It looks like you have a threaded hole to push the rotor off with a screw.

I want to see the inside of the rotor. I bet it's garbage.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:30:45 PM EDT
[#46]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way.

https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg
View Quote
The hole in the rotor should be threaded, allowing you to put a bolt in it to tighten down. The bolt contacts the surface the rotor is pressed against, which pushes the rotor away from it and helping with removing it. If you don't know the thread size, just get a big fuckin hammer and beat the shit out of the rotor, it will come off. It helps to beat on all sides and rotate it. I have yet to meet a rotor my mini sledge hammers can't get off.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:32:40 PM EDT
[#47]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way.

https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg
View Quote
Jesus tittyfucking Christ.  WHY remove the caliper bracket?  Pull ONE pin & swing the caliper.

Buy a Service Manual.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:32:57 PM EDT
[#48]
Do not listen to the people telling you to beat the rotor on the sides.  Your rotor is fine, do not damage it.  The hub face of the rotor between the studs is where it needs to be smashed with a hammer.  Light taps to the rim of the rotor are okay.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:33:33 PM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Jesus tittyfucking Christ.  WHY remove the caliper bracket?  Pull ONE pin & swing the caliper.

Buy a Service Manual.
View Quote
Kinda gotta get the saddle off to remove the rotor....
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:35:01 PM EDT
[#50]
Now that I see in the other pics those pads actually slide in the holder. Dirt and rust gets under those clips and jams the pads, thats where you need to clean.
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