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Do not listen to the people telling you to beat the rotor on the sides. Your rotor is fine, do not damage it. The hub face of the rotor between the studs is where it needs to be smashed with a hammer. Light taps to the rim of the rotor are okay. View Quote ETA: page 2 edit |
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Now that I see in the other pics those pads actually slide in the holder. Dirt and rust gets under those clips and jams the pads, thats where you need to clean. View Quote All pads slide in the "holder". That's how brakes work. Do you think the caliper intimidates the rotor into stopping? |
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I always smear some wheel bearing grease on the back of the rotor, seems to help prevent them getting stuck on there like that. You really needed a brake job.
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Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic. View Quote |
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I'm in a good mood so I'll go easy... All pads slide in the "holder". That's how brakes work. Do you think the caliper intimidates the rotor into stopping? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Now that I see in the other pics those pads actually slide in the holder. Dirt and rust gets under those clips and jams the pads, thats where you need to clean. All pads slide in the "holder". That's how brakes work. Do you think the caliper intimidates the rotor into stopping? |
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If it was my wifes vehicle I'd replace the assy asap. Mine? I'd wait till it goes metal to metal and then replace them.
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Piston pushed back in no problem so I don't think that was seized. I'm just slapping it all back together and figuring out my options. $120 total for pads and rotors for both sides may just do it.
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Rotors look fine, if it were my car id just grease the calipers and replace the pads and rotors
when i do brakes i buy everything i need to do the job and only rarely do i have to replace a caliper. I am getting a new to me car and with that i plan on replacing everything for the brakes as i dont know the history of maintance on it and my son will be riding in it as well. for the good parts i can get them cheap and its worth it, plus i will know the history of when they were done last. |
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I agree with everyone saying to replace the rotor too. You're already there, everything is alright apart.
You should flush the lines too. That's something a lot of people overlook. ETA: This was the last brake change I did. My car was like 70K miles and 3 years old I think. (The right is the old fluid moving left to the newer stuff getting pushed out). You can't tell in the pic but there's little bits of shit in the old fluid too. Attached File |
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Lol at the pad swap guys.
Yeah, I don't blame you heavy truck guys for doing that (because its a pain in the dick to replace the rotors on a heavy duty truck), but this looks like a throwaway GM FWD car, which means that rotors are less than $50, each, from the dealer. They are designed to be disposable, and anything that has worn that far would be out of spec even if the inboard pad didn't go metal on metal. By the time you even true the face of the rotors there won't be anything left. If the rotor is stuck, use some heat between the studs on the hat of the rotor, and then hit it with a hammer (mind the studs, of course). Should pop right off. Lol at the puller guys on that, I have NEVER used a puller to remove a stuck brake rotor, or drum. |
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OP....could it be a wheel bearing making that grinding noise? Those rotors look fine.
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There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only. I only fix what is necessary. There are specs for everything. Why throw away good rotors? View Quote If you're just throwing new pads on used rotors, well, LOL. |
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ONLY if the rotor needs to come off. To inspect all you need is one pin. And for "Beat the fuck out of it" clowns, thanks. Sells lots of parts & work for real mechanics. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Kinda gotta get the saddle off to remove the rotor.... And for "Beat the fuck out of it" clowns, thanks. Sells lots of parts & work for real mechanics. Every "real mechanic" in salt country has a BFH for just that purpose. Who cares if you wreck the rotor? It needs new ones anyway, and they're cheap. |
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Bosch QuietCast rotors are fantastic for the money.
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Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic. View Quote |
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LOL. If the rotor is in spec and not warped, then there is no need to replace it. Same for calipers. I've done pads only many, many times over with zero problems. View Quote This. I've also found my Honda's have lasted in spec far longer than any GMs I've ever owned. My RAM isn't that great either and requires a full set of pads/rotors all around and full pin removal/lube for sanity's sake. |
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There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only. I only fix what is necessary. There are specs for everything. Why throw away good rotors? View Quote Rotors are like $50 a piece. |
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That inside pad looks totally shot, and I agree I bet the tab is rubbing on that pad View Quote The right way is to replace rotors and pads, yank the caliper apart replace bushings, grease, clearance the new pads,install new clips, check for fit and travel, flush and fill the brake fluid and bleed all 4 corners...do most people do that? Nope, do most shops do that? Nope. And yet the world keeps spinning. Yes brakes are important, but as long as there is friction material on the pads and fluid in the system they will stop. Properly setup brakes work better but disc brakes are pretty damn forgiving in the real world. A correct brake job on all 4 corners can take 4 hours or more if you know what you are doing have all the tools and do everything absolutely "correct". Change the pads OP. Rotors too if you can swing it. If not new pads on ugly ass rotors will safely stop you, they may not last, and they may pulse or talk or pull but they will stop. |
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Listening to arfcom give car advice is like listening to a gun counter guy
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When I was young, I would have replaced the rotors, pads, and rebuilt the calipers.
Mrs Rabinowitz doesn't allow it anymore. I have it professionally done. I suggest the same. |
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Are these the calipers that require a hex wrench to retract the piston ala Mazda and some Fords? I know it is a GM. Just don't know if they have changed style.
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If they are phenolic pistons they will only sieze when the brake heats up, like when you are in stop n go traffic. Then when the caliper is cool they release and seem to work normally.
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If they are phenolic pistons they will only sieze when the brake heats up, like when you are in stop n go traffic. Then when the caliper is cool they release and seem to work normally. View Quote |
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Piston pushed back in no problem so I don't think that was seized. I'm just slapping it all back together and figuring out my options. $120 total for pads and rotors for both sides may just do it. View Quote I finally replaced rotors and pads with the help of folks here. It brakes fine now. |
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Typical fashion I get 100 diff answers here. I bought some grease for the pins and greased them up since they didnt have any on them. Also only did the pass side cause I was lazy. I will attack it this weekend. Wondering what tab you guys see rubbing metal on metal on the inside brake pad? I don't see any of the tabs hitting the rotor?
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Typical fashion I get 100 diff answers here. I bought some grease for the pins and greased them up since they didnt have any on them. Also only did the pass side cause I was lazy. I will attack it this weekend. Wondering what tab you guys see rubbing metal on metal on the inside brake pad? I don't see any of the tabs hitting the rotor? View Quote Also, what kind of vehicle is it, kind of important if you actually want a good answer. |
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Take a picture of all of the parts, please. Also, what kind of vehicle is it, kind of important if you actually want a good answer. View Quote |
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Seized piston. Rebuild or replace.
Also new pads and rotors, then bed. |
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There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only. I only fix what is necessary. There are specs for everything. Why throw away good rotors? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic. My OEM Toyota rotors have 160k miles on them. No reason to put "new" Chinese made rotors that could be defective. |
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Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way. https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg View Quote |
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I just changed the OEM pads and rotors on my Mazda 6 at 90k miles. The rear pads showed wear similar to yours. I'd suggest removing the old grease on the caliper pins and inside the caliper pin channels every 30k miles and relube. Make sure you lube the tabs on the end of the pads as well
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Mentioned earlier its a 2014 mazda 6. I'm just going to replace everything this weekend. Its short money for all parts less than $120. The piston pushed back in very easily with the brake pad as a barrier and a c-clamp. Car only has 50k. View Quote There's your answer, buy the parts, clean out and lube the caliper guides properly, done in around a couple of hours. |
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