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Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:36:10 AM EST
[#1]
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Quoted:
Do not listen to the people telling you to beat the rotor on the sides.  Your rotor is fine, do not damage it.  The hub face of the rotor between the studs is where it needs to be smashed with a hammer.  Light taps to the rim of the rotor are okay.
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What is the benefit of preserving the rotor at this point? They are cheapppppp nowadays.

ETA: page 2 edit
fnh
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:38:01 AM EST
[#2]
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Quoted:
Now that I see in the other pics those pads actually slide in the holder. Dirt and rust gets under those clips and jams the pads, thats where you need to clean.
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I'm in a good mood so I'll go easy...

All pads slide in the "holder".  That's how brakes work.  Do you think the caliper intimidates the rotor into stopping?
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:43:34 AM EST
[#3]
I always smear some wheel bearing grease on the back of the rotor, seems to help prevent them getting stuck on there like that. You really needed a brake job.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:44:33 AM EST
[#4]
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Quoted:
Caliper hanging up possibly? Take off the caliper and Greese the slide bolts and the slide brackets on the caliper bracket.
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And replace the rubber hose section on that side.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:45:54 AM EST
[#5]
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Quoted:
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders?
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This.

Your piston(s) are sticking inside the caliper.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:47:35 AM EST
[#6]
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Quoted:
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic.
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There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only.  I only fix what is necessary.  There are specs for everything.  Why throw away good rotors?
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:48:01 AM EST
[#7]
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Quoted:
I'm in a good mood so I'll go easy...

All pads slide in the "holder".  That's how brakes work.  Do you think the caliper intimidates the rotor into stopping?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Now that I see in the other pics those pads actually slide in the holder. Dirt and rust gets under those clips and jams the pads, thats where you need to clean.
I'm in a good mood so I'll go easy...

All pads slide in the "holder".  That's how brakes work.  Do you think the caliper intimidates the rotor into stopping?
Some systems the pads are fixed to the caliper which does the all sliding. And I'm glad you are in good mood, you must not work on brakes much.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:51:33 AM EST
[#8]
Rotors are cheap. Replace them.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:54:52 AM EST
[#9]
If it was my wifes vehicle I'd replace the assy asap. Mine? I'd wait till it goes metal to metal and then replace them.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:55:33 AM EST
[#10]
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Quoted:


Kinda gotta get the saddle off to remove the rotor....
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ONLY if the rotor needs to come off.  To inspect all you need is one pin.

And for "Beat the fuck out of it" clowns, thanks.  Sells lots of parts & work for real mechanics.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:57:34 AM EST
[#11]
Piston pushed back in no problem so I don't think that was seized. I'm just slapping it all back together and figuring out my options. $120 total for pads and rotors for both sides may just do it.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:01:49 PM EST
[#12]
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Quoted:
Some systems the pads are fixed to the caliper which does the all sliding. And I'm glad you are in good mood, you must not work on brakes much.
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Pads still need to move inward as they wear.  They're still sliding.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:05:31 PM EST
[#13]
Rotors look fine, if it were my car id just grease the calipers and replace the pads and rotors

when i do brakes i buy everything i need to do the job and only rarely do i have to replace a caliper.



I am getting a new to me car and with that i plan on replacing everything for the brakes as i dont know the history of maintance on it and my son will be riding in it as well.
for the good parts i can get them cheap and its worth it, plus i will know the history of when they were done last.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:06:56 PM EST
[#14]
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Quoted:
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders?
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That's my experience.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:07:33 PM EST
[#15]
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:09:14 PM EST
[#16]
Do not hammer on the rotors, it won't get them off. Rent or borrow a puller.
My BIL tried to hammer off his rotors, after an hour I saw what he was doing and used my puller. Took no time at all.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:10:21 PM EST
[#17]
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Quoted:


Run the right size bolt into that hole, it will pop right off. I don't remember the size however sorry. Maybe you can go to the parts store and try bolts on a new rotor to get the correct size. You don't want to mess up the old rotor with the wrong bolt
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Most are 5/16
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:11:48 PM EST
[#18]
I agree with everyone saying to replace the rotor too. You're already there, everything is alright apart. 

You should flush the lines too. That's something a lot of people overlook. 

ETA: This was the last brake change I did. My car was like 70K miles and 3 years old I think. (The right is the old fluid moving left to the newer stuff getting pushed out). You can't tell in the pic but there's little bits of shit in the old fluid too. 
Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:22:22 PM EST
[#19]
Quoted:
Getting a grinding when I'm not even braking, then it sounds like sandpaper rubbing against sandpaper when I am braking. Pads seem to have some decent thickness left to them, except the one in the back seems to be wearing faster? Thinking its the rotors? Replace pads too?

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Metal-on-metal on the inboard pad.

Time for new brakes, and possibly caliper pins if they don't move.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:29:41 PM EST
[#20]
Lol at the pad swap guys.

Yeah, I don't blame you heavy truck guys for doing that (because its a pain in the dick to replace the rotors on a heavy duty truck), but this looks like a throwaway GM FWD car, which means that rotors are less than $50, each, from the dealer. They are designed to be disposable, and anything that has worn that far would be out of spec even if the inboard pad didn't go metal on metal. By the time you even true the face of the rotors there won't be anything left.

If the rotor is stuck, use some heat between the studs on the hat of the rotor, and then hit it with a hammer (mind the studs, of course). Should pop right off.

Lol at the puller guys on that, I have NEVER used a puller to remove a stuck brake rotor, or drum.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:36:38 PM EST
[#21]
OP....could it be a wheel bearing making that grinding noise?  Those rotors look fine.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:38:58 PM EST
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only.  I only fix what is necessary.  There are specs for everything.  Why throw away good rotors?
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If you turn them, yes.  Otherwise the pad isn't making full contact with the rotor. But realistically, new rotors are cheap enough that's it's worth buying brand new (rust free) rotors vs taking them all somewhere to get turned in the middle of the brake job.

If you're just throwing new pads on used rotors, well, LOL.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:43:01 PM EST
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
ONLY if the rotor needs to come off.  To inspect all you need is one pin.

And for "Beat the fuck out of it" clowns, thanks.  Sells lots of parts & work for real mechanics.
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Quoted:
Quoted:


Kinda gotta get the saddle off to remove the rotor....
ONLY if the rotor needs to come off.  To inspect all you need is one pin.

And for "Beat the fuck out of it" clowns, thanks.  Sells lots of parts & work for real mechanics.
Spoken like a guy who lives in the desert.

Every "real mechanic" in salt country has a BFH for just that purpose. Who cares if you wreck the rotor? It needs new ones anyway, and they're cheap.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:45:10 PM EST
[#24]
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:48:10 PM EST
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic.
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LOL.  If the rotor is in spec and not warped, then there is no need to replace it.  Same for calipers.   I've done pads only many, many times over with zero problems.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:52:13 PM EST
[#26]
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Quoted:
Change it all.
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Who cares what it is, replace it.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:54:39 PM EST
[#27]
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Quoted:


Sweet rotors, pads, lines, calipers and master every 20k miles sounds smart to me.
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If you need new pads every 20k miles then I would think you might have some other fucking issues there....
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:57:39 PM EST
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


LOL.  If the rotor is in spec and not warped, then there is no need to replace it.  Same for calipers.   I've done pads only many, many times over with zero problems.
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This.  I've also found my Honda's have lasted in spec far longer than any GMs I've ever owned.  My RAM isn't that great either and requires a full set of pads/rotors all around and full pin removal/lube for sanity's sake.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:57:50 PM EST
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only.  I only fix what is necessary.  There are specs for everything.  Why throw away good rotors?
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So you replace pads, then before the pads are worn out again you replace the rotors? Sounds like a good idea.

Rotors are like $50 a piece.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 1:04:21 PM EST
[#30]
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Quoted:
Piston pushed back in no problem so I don't think that was seized. I'm just slapping it all back together and figuring out my options. $120 total for pads and rotors for both sides may just do it.
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Did you use a c clamp to push it in?  If so it could still be sticking.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 1:07:03 PM EST
[#31]
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Quoted:


That inside pad looks totally shot, and I agree I bet the tab is rubbing on that pad
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Yep, the sensor rubbed off 10K miles ago, the grinding is the steel backer plate rubbing on the rotor.  

The right way is to replace rotors and pads, yank the caliper apart replace bushings, grease, clearance the new pads,install new clips,  check for fit and travel, flush and fill the brake fluid and bleed all 4 corners...do most people do that? Nope, do most shops do that? Nope. And yet the world keeps spinning.   Yes brakes are important, but as long as there is friction material on the pads and fluid in the system they will stop.  Properly setup brakes work better but disc brakes are pretty damn forgiving in the real world. 
A correct brake job on all 4 corners can take 4 hours or more if you know what you are doing have all the tools and do everything absolutely "correct".  

Change the pads OP.  Rotors too if you can swing it.  If not new pads on ugly ass rotors will safely stop you, they may not last, and they may pulse or talk or pull but they will stop. 
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 1:46:35 PM EST
[#32]
Listening to arfcom give car advice is like listening to a gun counter guy
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 1:50:49 PM EST
[#33]
When I was young, I would have replaced the rotors, pads, and rebuilt the calipers.

Mrs Rabinowitz doesn't allow it anymore.  I have it professionally done.

I suggest the same.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 1:53:32 PM EST
[#34]
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Quoted:
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders?
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This would be my guess.

I see two brand new reman calipers in your future.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 1:54:00 PM EST
[#35]
Are these the calipers that require a hex wrench to retract the piston ala Mazda and some Fords?  I know it is a GM.  Just don't know if they have changed style.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 1:57:21 PM EST
[#36]
If they are phenolic pistons they will only sieze when the brake heats up, like when you are in stop n go traffic.   Then when the caliper is cool they release and seem to work normally.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:05:58 PM EST
[#37]
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Quoted:
If they are phenolic pistons they will only sieze when the brake heats up, like when you are in stop n go traffic.   Then when the caliper is cool they release and seem to work normally.
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I've had Phenolic pistons just disintegrate on me. Wouldn't believe it was possible except for the fact that I pulled them off of my own vehicles. They don't take the heat very well, imho (brake fire on the Neon did one in, the other was the rear caliper piston for an S10 Blazer, which had started to grind, and then exploded while I was driving it.)
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:08:00 PM EST
[#38]
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Quoted:
Piston pushed back in no problem so I don't think that was seized. I'm just slapping it all back together and figuring out my options. $120 total for pads and rotors for both sides may just do it.
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I had a bad vibration when braking...worse between 40-55 MPH.

I finally replaced rotors and pads with the help of folks here.

It brakes fine now.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:09:15 PM EST
[#39]
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Quoted:


That inside pad looks totally shot, and I agree I bet the tab is rubbing on that pad
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Came here to say this. The inside (the piston pusher side) looks more used up than Jenna Haze's asshole. Turn rotors if you must, time for new pads.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:11:13 PM EST
[#40]
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Quoted:
Did you use a c clamp to push it in?  If so it could still be sticking.
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Every video uses a C clamp or similar to push the piston in.  How do you determine if the piston is sticking?
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:12:09 PM EST
[#41]
Typical fashion I get 100 diff answers here. I bought some grease for the pins and greased them up since they didnt have any on them. Also only did the pass side cause I was lazy. I will attack it this weekend. Wondering what tab you guys see rubbing metal on metal on the inside brake pad? I don't see any of the tabs hitting the rotor?
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:12:33 PM EST
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Every video uses a C clamp or similar to push the piston in.  How do you determine if the piston is sticking?
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If it doesn't move, its sticking.

9/10 its the slides that stick, not the whole piston.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:13:51 PM EST
[#43]
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Quoted:
Typical fashion I get 100 diff answers here. I bought some grease for the pins and greased them up since they didnt have any on them. Also only did the pass side cause I was lazy. I will attack it this weekend. Wondering what tab you guys see rubbing metal on metal on the inside brake pad? I don't see any of the tabs hitting the rotor?
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Take a picture of all of the parts, please.

Also, what kind of vehicle is it, kind of important if you actually want a good answer.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:15:15 PM EST
[#44]
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Quoted:


Take a picture of all of the parts, please.

Also, what kind of vehicle is it, kind of important if you actually want a good answer.
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Mentioned earlier its a 2014 mazda 6. I'm just going to replace everything this weekend. Its short money for all parts less than $120. The piston pushed back in very easily with the brake pad as a barrier and a c-clamp. Car only has 50k.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:16:08 PM EST
[#45]
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Quoted:


LOL.  If the rotor is in spec and not warped, then there is no need to replace it.  Same for calipers.   I've done pads only many, many times over with zero problems.
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Me too.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:28:55 PM EST
[#46]
Seized piston. Rebuild or replace.

Also new pads and rotors, then bed.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:39:02 PM EST
[#47]
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Quoted:
There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only.  I only fix what is necessary.  There are specs for everything.  Why throw away good rotors?
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only.  I only fix what is necessary.  There are specs for everything.  Why throw away good rotors?
I'm with you.  Pads I would replace, but not rotors. 

My OEM Toyota rotors have 160k miles on them.  No reason to put "new" Chinese made rotors that could be defective.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:39:37 PM EST
[#48]
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Quoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way.

https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg
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Inner pads are gone.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 2:55:28 PM EST
[#49]
I just changed the OEM pads and rotors on my Mazda 6 at 90k miles. The rear pads showed wear similar to yours.  I'd suggest removing the old grease on the caliper pins and inside the caliper pin channels every 30k miles and relube. Make sure you lube the tabs on the end of the pads as well
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 3:07:31 PM EST
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Mentioned earlier its a 2014 mazda 6. I'm just going to replace everything this weekend. Its short money for all parts less than $120. The piston pushed back in very easily with the brake pad as a barrier and a c-clamp. Car only has 50k.
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$120 for all the parts?

There's your answer, buy the parts, clean out and lube the caliper guides properly, done in around a couple of hours.
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