1. Buy a good torque wrench and keep the action screws torqued to 65 in/lbs. check torque every 100 rounds.

2. Use good ammo, match grade, no steel cases please.

3. Loctite the three swivel studs.

4. Check the barrel free float after re-torque. A dollar bill works great.

5. Don’t buy an aftermarket trigger, just adjust the factory trigger group.

6. If you use a Harris swivel type bi-pod use a pod-loc.

7. Do not get bore solvent on the Parkerizing it will take it off !!!!

this wouldnt have anything to do with my thread i made a few days ago about my remington 700 tactical does it?

A dollar bill is not enough. A business card is a better test. Check this occasionally.

Accuracy potential will never be acheived with factory ammo. You must handload.

Good luck

Quoted: Accuracy potential will never be acheived with factory ammo. You must handload.

I don't handload, but I am able to get 1/2" groups at 100 yards thru my PSS with Federal GM 168gr.

Doesn't get a whole lot better than that.

Quoted: . Doesn't get a whole lot better than that.

Actually it does (or should). Those should be cut in half once you have figured out the correct length and load for your rifle.


I will say this, 1/2MOA with factory ammo out of a factory gun is pretty trick. Gotta love it.

Quoted: Quoted: Accuracy potential will never be acheived with factory ammo. You must handload. I don't handload, but I am able to get 1/2" groups at 100 yards thru my PSS with Federal GM 168gr. Doesn't get a whole lot better than that.

I agree. With my VS-LH I can still hold 1/2 -3/4 MOA at 800 yards with Federal GM 168gr. I'm pretty pleased with my ability to hit paper plates consistently at 800 yards with that rifle/ammo combination.

20" or 26" more accurate, or does it matter?

Quoted: 20" or 26" more accurate, or does it matter?

Although I can't prove it, I would wager that the 26" is more accurate out past 600 yards.  Not many people shoot that far, tho.

At ranges shorter than 600 yards, I don't think there's gonna be much of a difference at all.

Quoted: Quoted: 20" or 26" more accurate, or does it matter? Although I can't prove it, I would wager that the 26" is more accurate out past 600 yards.  Not many people shoot that far, tho. At ranges shorter than 600 yards, I don't think there's gonna be much of a difference at all.

The 26" barrel was implemented as to keep bullet velocities in .308 (175gr) over 1120 fps (supersonic) at 1000 yards.

Personally...  I could not handle the palm swell (actually "lack of" palm swell) on the PSS.  I had to put on a different stock... which really pissed me off since I believe it's the same rifle as the sendero/Varmint with a cool stock.  Yes, despite what Remington says.. the bolt is not blueprinted/squared, the lugs are not lapped and the chamber is made to "lawyer" long throat specs.

Anyway...  

I shoot 3/4 Moa with my AR-10(T) and 1.0 to 1.5 Moa with my PSS.  I did put an aftermarket trigger on it (after adjusting the remington trigger all I (and my smith) could adjust it.  I put on a Jewell with 1lb pull.  Sweet for the bench.  It really is.  The squeeze/pull differential is minimal.

Next time... I buy the action then build it into the perfect rifle.  The PSS is not gods gift to marksmen.  It is a very nice rifle and a good shooter.  It isn't "consistently" a "sniper" rifle though.

The above is brought to you by average Joe shooter.  His ideas have been forged by and due to experience through repeated use.  Your mileage may vary.  My mileage is as stated above.

Quoted:

Good post.. lemme expand on a few things a bit


>>1. Buy a good torque wrench and keep the action screws torqued to 65 in/lbs. check torque every 100 rounds.

YMMV... 55-65 in/lbs... neet to tweak until you find your sweet spot

>>>2. Use good ammo, match grade, no steel cases please.

Fed GM or reloads..
Fed GM will give me 3/4" @ 300 yards... reloading 168G SMK, to the 2600fps load using IMR4064 and CCI BR primers has yeilded 5/8 @ 300 yards, I am sure I could get tighter than that.. I have also found that these chambers are pretty tight and have a long throat...  I FL size my brass, and seating depth is .030 over OAL listed in my Sierra manual  I am not home to look at the actual # if you want to know, I will post it later...

>>>3. Loctite the three swivel studs.

I do allot of shooting off my sinclair bench rest, I usually remove the swivel studs ( only when shooting) to keep them from digging into my bags

>>>4. Check the barrel free float after re-torque. A dollar bill works great.

>>5. Don’t buy an aftermarket trigger, just adjust the factory trigger group.

The PSS has a great trigger, I have mine @ 2.25 lbs...  tha palm swell changes you finger position on the trigger, it actually makes it feel lighter than it is.

6. If you use a Harris swivel type bi-pod use a pod-loc.

>>>7. Do not get bore solvent on the Parkerizing it will take it off !!!!

What kind of solvent are you using?  I use Boretech benchrest blend to remove the copper, and follow it up with some good ole Hoppies #9
I havent seen this happen..  I do wrap a paper towell around the end of the barrel to soak up all the solvent that dripps out of the muzzel.


Also wanted to add, Remington also recomends keeping a coat of remoil om the parkerization, I personally use Breakfree CLP and let it soak in for about 15 min and pat it down with a lint free rag to remove the eccess...
You could find this in the FAQ section of www.remingtonle.com

Personally I like the swell, however I feel it could use some improvement. I would like to see it BIGGER and longer. Sounds goofy to some but I would like to have it actually fill my hand and allow for just the pad of my finger to contact the trigger and allow for a straight pull.

Quoted: 1. Buy a good torque wrench and keep the action screws torqued to 65 in/lbs. check torque every 100 rounds.

Is there a reason why Blue locktite can't be used here?

7. Do not get bore solvent on the Parkerizing it will take it off !!!!

Holy crap!  What are you using?  Battery acid?  I have never heard of Ammonia based solvent doing this...

Shooter's Choice MC#7 did take off some of the Parkerizing.