Of those of you who've reduced the trigger pull on your 10/22s, how did you go about doing it??  I've read where you can merely replace parts to get down to 2 - 2.5 lbs.  

I've also read that reducing trigger pull to under 2.5 lbs isn't that easy and requires polishing and other non-novice gunsmith work.  

Thus far everything I've read has been from someone trying to sell parts and services.

What's been your experience??

I tried everything but finally broke down and got a Kidd trigger.  It sucks to pay more for the trigger than I did for the gun, but it is amazing.  I really wanted a two stage trigger and this was about the only option.  It is expensive but worth it.

Years ago, I rebuilt a trigger group with Volquartsen parts.  I'm still using it today and it provides and excellant trigger pull.  I don't know the weight, but I would guess it's in the 3 - 3.25 range.  Not crisp, but very managable.  

I recently purchased and installed a Superior Tactical Solutions Match Trigger Group and all i can say is WOW! Trigger pull at 2 1/2 lbs!!!

Match trigger
Match hammer
Match sear
Wolff springs
extended mag release
polished all contact surfaces
VQ auto bolt release

Just over a 100 bucks...

I'm a very happy camper!

Shrunk my groups by half...

(full review here)

With Power Custom"s hammer and sear I get consistent 2.75 lbs trigger pulls. I would not want or need to go lower. This is the 2nd PC hammer and sear for me and would buy them again.  

ETA: 2nd PC hammer and sear = 2 different 10/22 builds

I installed a VQ hammer in one of my 10/22s and the trigger is ABOUT 1.75-2.00lbs (not exactly sure, but it it always breaks the scale at 1.75 but I will give the bigger margin of error for the scale)...good enought for what I will use it

rimfirecentral.com they have alot of stuff you'll end doing to 10/22.

Most of the gang over at rimfirecentral recomend Todd at www.ttshooter.com for trigger work.  He primarily uses factory parts slightly modified.  He has a basic trigger job for $70 and a more custom job at $90.  I have my trigger in to him now for a basic job plus an auto bolt modification and an over travel stop.  Total cost was $80.  I will post when I get it back.  I do have a friend that swears by Todd's work and his trigger is set around 2.5+/- pounds and it breaks like a charm.  Look him up.

What is the pull weight on a standard trigger?

I want a "hair" trigger for bump firing purposes.  I already have a VQ extractor, so may opt for a couple more VQ parts.

standard triggers vary , but are around 6-8lbs...I believe

For me the VQ hammer was the only mod I did and the trigger has some pre-travel and over-travel, but I use the "pre-travel" as a "prep."  (I guess, like the first stage of a 2 stage trigger) then I squeze the trigger a little more and it ALWAYS surprises me as the trigger breaks.

Quoted: With Power Custom"s hammer and sear I get consistent 2.75 lbs trigger pulls. I would not want or need to go lower. This is the 2nd PC hammer and sear for me and would buy them again.

Huge +1 on that.  I "only" replaced the hammer and the difference was amazing.  That rough neck stock pull is for the birds.  If I wasn't such a cheap skate I would have sprung for the entire Power Custom package.  That's quality stuff right there.  My recent 10/22 purchase will probably get the Power Custom Hammer+Sear combo pack and I'll leave the rest stock (springs, etc.)  I figure any more messing around with the trigger and I might as well drop the coin and get a Kidd.

Connecticut Precision Chambering has done several triggers for me...they do excellent  10/22 work...the current trigger I have on a Volquartzen barrelled 10/22 is 1 1/4 lbs and it breaks like glass

There are a few ways to go about trigger jobs:

1) Buying an aftermarket trigger group,
2) Having yours gunsmithed
3) Installing aftermarket parts yourself.

Aftermarket trigger groups cost a lot of money, and often don't provide any better results than having a stock trigger group modified.  Jewell, Jard (no longer in production), Volquartsen, and KID all offer TG's for 10/22's - the prices range from about $200 to $300.  In my opinion, only the KID is worth the money, but the Jard got excellent raves when it was available.

For about $100, a competent gunsmith can get the stock group to 1.5# reliably.  Sometimes they use aftermarket parts, but often modify exising parts.

Aftermarket parts rarely ever get the trigger below 2-3# unless some additional work was involved or the tolerances of that particular trigger group just happened to be "just right" and it "just happened".  Most hammers cost about $30, most sears about $30 also.  You can get away with just a hammer if all you want is a lighter trigger, but adding an adjustable sear makes it all that much nicer.

And again, in my opinion, if you're going to spend $60, get the Rimfire Technologies by Skeeter trigger group kits - it includes an adjustable hammer (mine both break under 2#), an adjustable sear, and oversize pins for the hammer and sear.  Of all the trigger parts kits, this one is the best designed so far; it is the same as having your group custom gunsmithed, but without the cost and waiting.

I too like the power custom kit

its relatively cheap and if you just take your time and have a exploded drawing of a 10/22 trigger assembly handy  its not too tough to install the first time

gets a decent trigger in the 2-2.5 lb range

Quoted: Of those of you who've reduced the trigger pull on your 10/22s, how did you go about doing it??  I've read where you can merely replace parts to get down to 2 - 2.5 lbs.   I've also read that reducing trigger pull to under 2.5 lbs isn't that easy and requires polishing and other non-novice gunsmith work.   Thus far everything I've read has been from someone trying to sell parts and services. What's been your experience??

Man jo I have a buddy that can alter a 10/22 trigger with a "medium" wet rock, then polish it out with an "fine or extra fine" wet rock... I have done it to every 10/22 I have had.  Just go slow and take your time, the medium rock will take off metal pretty fast so be slow and careful or you will have to buy a new assembly.

Here is a link to check out, we don't get this fancy, but it does show you where to polish.

Good luck.
www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122386&highlight=stoning

Good info.

ive doen them for my buddys guns, its takes me about 10min of grinding and buffing...

Polished the sear on mine with 1200 grade wet & dry paper wrapped around a steel rule.  Figured if I screwed up I could buy a new hammer, so nothing to lose.  Don't know what the pull is now but a lot less than factory and smooth let off.  

I bought a VQ hammer, and polished everything else. It's no target trigger, but , it's way better than factory and I have a grand total of $30 in it.

Quoted: Polished the sear on mine with 1200 grade wet & dry paper wrapped around a steel rule.  Figured if I screwed up I could buy a new hammer, so nothing to lose.  Don't know what the pull is now but a lot less than factory and smooth let off.

i do all the work on the hammer.

n/m...

Don't waste your money until you've tried it yourself

trigger mods

tag for mods

Quoted: Don't waste your money until you've tried it yourself trigger mods

Rimfire, would a dremel tool with the rubbing compound and cotton wheel be sufficent when he is showing how to polish everything up?  I am affraid of "digging too deep" with the wrong diamond hone?  And changing the radius of the plunger I know I'd jack that one up...

Any hands on advise will be helpful.

I just recently put a Volquartsen hammer in mine to lighten the trigger pull (my daughter couldn't pull the trigger with one finger).  The trigger is much lighter now, but it is not as crisp as the stock trigger.   It has a fair amount of creep before it breaks.  I'm happy with the mod, but it isn't the way to go if you want a match grade trigger.