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Why didn't you remove the sight base before stripping? Second, how are you going to prevent oxidation of the aluminum? Lots of work and definetly better looking then factory.
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Originally Posted By singtoe:
Why didn't you remove the sight base before stripping? Second, how are you going to prevent oxidation of the aluminum? Lots of work and definetly better looking then factory. I red lock tighted it on. I couldn't find my soldering iron to heat up the screws to take the base off. I plan on replacing the stock on my 10/22 and when I do so, I will take the base off and get the rest of the paint. Put some flitz polish on some 0000 steel wool and rub it in once a year or so. It keeps the aluminum in tip top shape |
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Originally Posted By Hendricks5150: Originally Posted By singtoe: Why didn't you remove the sight base before stripping? Second, how are you going to prevent oxidation of the aluminum? Lots of work and definetly better looking then factory. I red lock tighted it on. I couldn't find my soldering iron to heat up the screws to take the base off. I plan on replacing the stock on my 10/22 and when I do so, I will take the base off and get the rest of the paint. Put some flitz polish on some 0000 steel wool and rub it in once a year or so. It keeps the aluminum in tip top shape Won't you get rust if you embed steel particles into the aluminum with the steel wool ? |
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Bill Tidler Jr.
Good men must not obey the laws too well. ~Ralph Waldo Emerson |
Originally Posted By wetidlerjr:
Originally Posted By Hendricks5150:
Originally Posted By singtoe:
Why didn't you remove the sight base before stripping? Second, how are you going to prevent oxidation of the aluminum? Lots of work and definetly better looking then factory. I red lock tighted it on. I couldn't find my soldering iron to heat up the screws to take the base off. I plan on replacing the stock on my 10/22 and when I do so, I will take the base off and get the rest of the paint. Put some flitz polish on some 0000 steel wool and rub it in once a year or so. It keeps the aluminum in tip top shape Won't you get rust if you embed steel particles into the aluminum with the steel wool ? I haven't had that happen to me. If you want you can use a micro fiber cloth to rub the polish in. |
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Originally Posted By Hendricks5150: I haven't either but I have seen numerous warnings and also concerning steel wool on stainless steel.Originally Posted By wetidlerjr: Originally Posted By Hendricks5150: Originally Posted By singtoe: Why didn't you remove the sight base before stripping? Second, how are you going to prevent oxidation of the aluminum? Lots of work and definetly better looking then factory. I red lock tighted it on. I couldn't find my soldering iron to heat up the screws to take the base off. I plan on replacing the stock on my 10/22 and when I do so, I will take the base off and get the rest of the paint. Put some flitz polish on some 0000 steel wool and rub it in once a year or so. It keeps the aluminum in tip top shape Won't you get rust if you embed steel particles into the aluminum with the steel wool ? I haven't had that happen to me. If you want you can use a micro fiber cloth to rub the polish in. |
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Bill Tidler Jr.
Good men must not obey the laws too well. ~Ralph Waldo Emerson |
Originally Posted By wetidlerjr:
Originally Posted By Hendricks5150:
I haven't either but I have seen numerous warnings and also concerning steel wool on stainless steel.
Originally Posted By wetidlerjr:
Originally Posted By Hendricks5150:
Originally Posted By singtoe:
Why didn't you remove the sight base before stripping? Second, how are you going to prevent oxidation of the aluminum? Lots of work and definetly better looking then factory. I red lock tighted it on. I couldn't find my soldering iron to heat up the screws to take the base off. I plan on replacing the stock on my 10/22 and when I do so, I will take the base off and get the rest of the paint. Put some flitz polish on some 0000 steel wool and rub it in once a year or so. It keeps the aluminum in tip top shape Won't you get rust if you embed steel particles into the aluminum with the steel wool ? I haven't had that happen to me. If you want you can use a micro fiber cloth to rub the polish in. Fascinating, what is the problem? (edit- I'm not being snotty, just curious) Maybe use stainless steel wool if regular steel wool is bad then. |
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so this confirms they are actually painting the stainless steel barrels - just when you thought Ruger couldn't get any dumber.
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Originally Posted By Rocketfish:
so this confirms they are actually painting the stainless steel barrels - just when you thought Ruger couldn't get any dumber. Yeah I agree. I really don't see why they are painting them, they look so much better plain. If you do some of the work that I did above, you start seeing how they are skimping on everything. All the machining marks on the receiver, bolt, and barrel are crazy. The gun still shoots great and is super reliable. Thank God I got one before that started changing |
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Originally Posted By Hendricks5150:
Originally Posted By Rocketfish:
so this confirms they are actually painting the stainless steel barrels - just when you thought Ruger couldn't get any dumber. Yeah I agree. I really don't see why they are painting them, they look so much better plain. If you do some of the work that I did above, you start seeing how they are skimping on everything. All the machining marks on the receiver, bolt, and barrel are crazy. The gun still shoots great and is super reliable. Thank God I got one before that started changing You have one they haven't changed? |
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Originally Posted By singtoe:
Originally Posted By Hendricks5150:
Originally Posted By Rocketfish:
so this confirms they are actually painting the stainless steel barrels - just when you thought Ruger couldn't get any dumber. Yeah I agree. I really don't see why they are painting them, they look so much better plain. If you do some of the work that I did above, you start seeing how they are skimping on everything. All the machining marks on the receiver, bolt, and barrel are crazy. The gun still shoots great and is super reliable. Thank God I got one before that started changing You have one they haven't changed? I meant that I am thankful that I got a 10/22 before ruger screws with them even more and they stop shooting well out of the box |
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Originally Posted By Rocketfish:
so this confirms they are actually painting the stainless steel barrels - just when you thought Ruger couldn't get any dumber. Does this mean that the blue barrels are really stainless barrels with paint on them? I bought a Charger and on the Ruger website it describes the barrel as "10 inch alloy steel". |
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Originally Posted By PeaceKeeper2:
Originally Posted By Rocketfish:
so this confirms they are actually painting the stainless steel barrels - just when you thought Ruger couldn't get any dumber. Does this mean that the blue barrels are really stainless barrels with paint on them? I bought a Charger and on the Ruger website it describes the barrel as "10 inch alloy steel". A lot of them are powder coated/painted. They might still blue some of them. |
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Originally Posted By Rocketfish:
so this confirms they are actually painting the stainless steel barrels - just when you thought Ruger couldn't get any dumber. Interesting, I emailed Ruger and they said the barrels are simply sandblasted to a matte finish. |
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"Send a message to the unborn child. Keep your eyes open for a while."-Shinedown
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Originally Posted By Hendricks5150:
Originally Posted By PeaceKeeper2:
Originally Posted By Rocketfish:
so this confirms they are actually painting the stainless steel barrels - just when you thought Ruger couldn't get any dumber. Does this mean that the blue barrels are really stainless barrels with paint on them? I bought a Charger and on the Ruger website it describes the barrel as "10 inch alloy steel". A lot of them are powder coated/painted. They might still blue some of them. Mine(Talo Classic) was labelled as blued-doesn't look "obviously" painted, so if it is they used a good color match to bluing. |
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"Send a message to the unborn child. Keep your eyes open for a while."-Shinedown
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Originally Posted By shack357:
Interesting, I emailed Ruger and they said the barrels are simply sandblasted to a matte finish. Yeah, that would make a lot more sense, but the OP has described "removing paint from the barrel". Ahhh, this explains why the OP couldn't remove the paint from the barrel with the aircraft stripper - it's not paint! |
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Originally Posted By Rocketfish:
Originally Posted By shack357:
Interesting, I emailed Ruger and they said the barrels are simply sandblasted to a matte finish. Yeah, that would make a lot more sense, but the OP has described "removing paint from the barrel". Ahhh, this explains why the OP couldn't remove the paint from the barrel with the aircraft stripper - it's not paint! It's something. Certainly not bead blasted, it would look like stainless steel. What makes me believe that it is paint is that the bolts that hold the barrel on scratched the "paint" off the bottom of the barrel on installation at the factory. I guess I should add a before pic. Edit: Pic added. |
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nice job finishing what ruger is cutting corners on...
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Originally Posted By Whisper44:
nice job finishing what ruger is cutting corners on... Thanks |
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good thread. tacked
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Originally Posted By Hoplite:
good thread. tacked Thanks |
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Don't understand the sticky, it's been done many times (with scope mount of LMAO!)
Raw aluminum need at least a clear coat (if not anodizing) |
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Originally Posted By Rocker:
Don't understand the sticky, it's been done many times (with scope mount of LMAO!) Raw aluminum need at least a clear coat (if not anodizing) Mine is still in great shape and I took the scope mount off after making this thread and replaced it with a Weaver mount. |
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Clear Coat is the best way of keeping aluminum wheels shiny without oxidizing. Every two years or so we take the clear coat off with 0000 steel wool and gasoline. No pressure applied. Then buff out to mirror shine and recoat. If I decide to do my 10/22 and probably will since it has stainless bull barrel. I'd polish with every cleaning from the field. Keep the polish applied and it won't oxidize. Put it away in a closet and forget. It will. Thanks for the tip.
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I agree with the comments about adding corrosion protection for the receiver. But, you could also cite the old practice used on bright finished muzzle loading military muskets that were kept shiny by the soldiers as part of their duty.
The steel barrel will remain fairly rust free if given a high polish to 600 grit wet or dry paper. I have some 4130 tubing I polished 3 or 4 years ago, then wiped with oil, that is still bright. Repolishing aluminum with steel wool is poor practice that will aggravate corrosion. Use scotch brite pads from the grocery store, or get fancy and buy aluminum wool from an aircraft supplies seller. I really like the idea of polishing the receiver, bolt, and barrel, but I don't agree with leaving the job unfinished and generating more work later. Here's a new, related topic - Did you consider polishing the inside of the receiver where the bolt rides? Does the bolt feel sloppier in the reciever now? |
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It's true, Obama is the Leader of Fools deluded to believe, "Everything is going to change now".
As for me, I will embrace what is Right more tightly than ever. 1 lbf = 32.174 lbm-ft/sec^2 |
ARFCOM post whore and ARFCOM community organizer
FL, USA
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The bolt doesn't feel sloppy, it just feels smooth now. Before it felt kind of gritty when I cycled it.
I didn't polish the inside because I figured it will get polished and broken in with time (after putting less than 1k rounds through it, I can already start to see it working itself out.) |
Shooting stuff is fun...
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Letting the bolt lap itself in might be the best way since the receiver is aluminum.
Your thread is making me think I may buy a new rifle to get a donor action, but I sure hate the idea of taking on another project with polishing right now. |
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It's true, Obama is the Leader of Fools deluded to believe, "Everything is going to change now".
As for me, I will embrace what is Right more tightly than ever. 1 lbf = 32.174 lbm-ft/sec^2 |
ARFCOM post whore and ARFCOM community organizer
FL, USA
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Originally Posted By AeroE:
Letting the bolt lap itself in might be the best way since the receiver is aluminum. Your thread is making me think I may buy a new rifle to get a donor action, but I sure hate the idea of taking on another project with polishing right now. I know what you mean. Polishing can get quite monotonous. I find that it goes by faster if you watch TV while doing it. |
Shooting stuff is fun... And thanks diestone for the avatar
Did you know that we have a shotgun forum? - http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=6&f=1 |
That looks great
I wish I had a buffing wheel to get mine to have a mirror finish. |
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Shooting stuff is fun... And thanks diestone for the avatar
Did you know that we have a shotgun forum? - http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=6&f=1 |
the wheels are pretty cheap, I'm a hobby polisher just do a lil work for friends and my self so I picked up a couple of wheels at the local hardware store they are pretty cheap I think I have less than 50 bucks in all of my polishing equipment (not including the various mag/alluminum polishes I have purchased thru the years...trying all the different brands) I have 3 wheels one is a stitched 6 inch wheel for the coarse polish stock removal I use the coarse polishing sticks for this one, then I have 2 buffer wheels that are used with the jewlers rouge sticks for the final polish. I have a dremmel kit too but I only use that for porting and polishing throttle bodies.
the other wheel I have is @3 inches that I use on my diegrinder for polishing automotive wheels. and I use an antique motor with a belt driven arbor with the wheels so I didn't have to buy a bench grinder...I'm a tightwad....lol funny thing is I started polishing car audio amplifiers and wheels for myself for friends that wanted something different( back in the early 90's I was an installer) |
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2 to the chest and one to the head......#17
"It's not whiz-bang tactical but one smack in the grape and it's #17 coloring books for Christmas." |
How is that Dremel Kit? I saw it at Wal-Mart and didn't know if it was any good.
I have an old grinder as well (Given to me by my great grand father - No idea how old the grinder is). I wonder if a buffing wheel will fit on it. |
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Shooting stuff is fun... And thanks diestone for the avatar
Did you know that we have a shotgun forum? - http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=6&f=1 |
the dremmel kit is pretty decent I use it mostly for removing casting marks and smoothing out seams. for polishing with it it's a lil fast for me I use my air diegrinder for that so I can control the speed and watch out for the dremmel it can cut real deep reeal fast....
the older grinder should do a pretty good job you may need to get an arbor adaptor to fit the polishing wheels. |
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2 to the chest and one to the head......#17
"It's not whiz-bang tactical but one smack in the grape and it's #17 coloring books for Christmas." |
I'll teach you to speak English with this knife!
UT, USA
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I lucked out and got one of the last all-metal 10/22's. It's a stainless, and the trigger housing is aluminum, as is the barrel band.
The receiver, trigger housing, barrel band, and magazine release all had the funky paint on them. (I had a 90's era 10/22 and the aluminum was clear anodized, no paint.) But the barrel was stainless steel with no coating and a good finish. I wound up having to go through this process with the receiver because I used gun scrubber spray to clean the gun, and it marred the paint. So, I just stripped the paint off and left the aluminum bare. As for those people worried about corrosion, the Marlin Model 60 stainless has a bare, uncoated aluminum receiver form the factory. No problems there. |
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Mine looks exactly the same after posting this thread. Still looks sharp
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Shooting stuff is fun... And thanks diestone for the avatar...
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if I bought one of the new matte black 10/22s and stripped the barrel and the receiver, is it just the same? I would assume its all the same materials... so I oculd make a 10/22 DSP look all nice and stainless, right?
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Originally Posted By njitmetal: if I bought one of the new matte black 10/22s and stripped the barrel and the receiver, is it just the same? I would assume its all the same materials... so I oculd make a 10/22 DSP look all nice and stainless, right? The receiver will be the same. I would not recommend stripping the barrel since it would not be stainless steel. |
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Shooting stuff is fun... And thanks diestone for the avatar...
Thank you to whom ever gifted me a membership : ) |
Originally Posted By Hendricks5150:
Originally Posted By njitmetal:
if I bought one of the new matte black 10/22s and stripped the barrel and the receiver, is it just the same? I would assume its all the same materials... so I oculd make a 10/22 DSP look all nice and stainless, right? The receiver will be the same. I would not recommend stripping the barrel since it would not be stainless steel. ohhhh OK. thats what I was wondering... thanks for the info. |
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I did this to a couple of mine. I replaced the blued barrels, one with a VQ and the other with a stock stainless bbl. I beadblasted the anodize off, which you could also do with the paint. I then hit it with a green or purple scotchbrite wheel in a buffer to smooth it out. I then went to 600 grit wetsand and then used Wenol red and Wenol Blue to polish to a mirror, by hand. This was a fairly fast process, with the Scotchbrite wheel doing most of the heavy work. Mine have been done for close to 10 years and I haven't had to repolish. Many aluminum polish compounds have a preservative in them. A final coat of Carnauba wax will do the same thing for you.
FYI, for chems, use nitrile gloves, the thicker the better. Latex is useless for chems. |
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very cool thread.............I have an old 10/22 with a black receiver and it got scratched right on the top..........like two inches long. you can see it took everything off. I may do this now to the receiver just to clean it up.
I have a charger barrel on there now...it is blued.........but I also am using an Arch Angel pistol stock and you can only see part of the receiver.............hmmmmmmmm I think it would look great! |
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This may be a dumb question, but how can I tell the difference between a stainless 10/22 & an aluminium 10/22?
I picked up what I thought was a stainless one in a pawn shop a while back, and after reading this thread, I'm wondering if it isn't aluminium. The barrel is stainless, and I would say it matches the receiver, but now I'm curious. Either way, I want to polish the barrel (and if possible, the reciver), can I do this with a buffing wheel on my grinder and some polishing compound? Gene |
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Posted By LaRue Tactical: When I snap my fingers, you will wake up and pull your wallet from your pocket ...
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Originally Posted By GENESMITH: This may be a dumb question, but how can I tell the difference between a stainless 10/22 & an aluminium 10/22? I picked up what I thought was a stainless one in a pawn shop a while back, and after reading this thread, I'm wondering if it isn't aluminium. The barrel is stainless, and I would say it matches the receiver, but now I'm curious. Either way, I want to polish the barrel (and if possible, the reciver), can I do this with a buffing wheel on my grinder and some polishing compound? Gene The difference on the stainless and "basic" (black) model is that the barrels are made of different steel (stainless model has a stainless steel barrel. I'm not sure what kind of steel the black one is made of). All factory 10/22 receivers are made of aluminum. You can do the polishing on the setup that you described. You will want to use sand paper first to get rid of the tooling marks (you will see them when you take the paint off). Remember when working on the barrel, don't sand the length (muzzle to chamber). You always sand around the barrel. Its a total pain in the ass, but if you have a way of making the barrel spin, it would make it a ton faster. |
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Shooting stuff is fun...
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Originally Posted By GENESMITH: Here is the one I'm talking about: http://media.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=17914 I've since changed out the stock: http://media.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=18023 I know it's hard to see in the pic, but the barrel already has a stainless finish, and the receiver is bare aluminum. There are no tool marks, I just want to clean up the shine on it. (hope that makes sense) I'll have to get some better pics. Gene Ah ok, I remember that 10/22. You still will want to work up to 2k or higher sand paper (probably could start with 800) and then move onto the buffing wheel with compound. |
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Shooting stuff is fun...
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yup the barrel is stainless and the reciever is alluminum.
you can polish the barrel on the wheel. and the reciever really needs to be wet sanded then polished on the wheel. |
Pack LaRue
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Originally Posted By ryanwilson1979:
very cool thread.............I have an old 10/22 with a black receiver and it got scratched right on the top..........like two inches long. you can see it took everything off. I may do this now to the receiver just to clean it up. I have a charger barrel on there now...it is blued.........but I also am using an Arch Angel pistol stock and you can only see part of the receiver.............hmmmmmmmm I think it would look great! Don't get caught unless it's registered as a SBR. The charger barrel on a rifle receiver is illegal unless registered, and it's surprising how many people don't know that. |
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"The hawk does not fear you, boy, and the hawk never will. The hawk is God's gunslinger." -Stephen King
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Are all stainless 10/22 recievers that pitted and rough under the paint or did that aircraft paint remover react to the aluminum?
And how to protect a bare reciever if I bead blast it for a matte look since it is not real stainless? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Originally Posted By LA_357SIG: Are all stainless 10/22 recievers that pitted and rough under the paint or did that aircraft paint remover react to the aluminum? And how to protect a bare reciever if I bead blast it for a matte look since it is not real stainless? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I can only speak for my receiver. I first tried Easy-Off oven cleaner as recommended by some other users. Little did I know that Easy-Off likes to eat aluminum, so some damage was done to my receiver. The Easy-Off could very well have caused the pitting but I do not know if the pitting is on other factory receivers. I would have to strip another down with Tal-Strip II in order to find out. I can pretty much guarantee that a new 10/22 (unless Ruger takes their head out of their asses) will have heavy tooling marks on the receiver. The marks are so heavy that you can actually see them trough the paint. These tooling marks do come out with sanding though. The receiver will be fine if you bead blast it. Keep it clean and stored dry like you would with any other firearm. |
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Shooting stuff is fun...
Thank you to whom ever gifted me a membership : ) |
i just bought today the black 10/22 with the polished stainless barrel, i can strip this down and polish the receiver to make it look like your's correct, thanks
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Originally Posted By FatAndy: i just bought today the black 10/22 with the polished stainless barrel, i can strip this down and polish the receiver to make it look like your's correct, thanks Yep. |
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Shooting stuff is fun...
Thank you to whom ever gifted me a membership : ) |
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