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Thanks for the followup! That's great to hear that its not Ruger releasing pitted receivers (still sucks that they aren't cleaning them up). It must have been the Easy-Off oven cleaner that caused the pitting. Pretty cool about the dying of your trigger assembly. Let us know how it holds up to use. |
Shooting stuff is fun...
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Thank you to whom ever gifted me a membership : )
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Originally Posted By Rocketfish:
so this confirms they are actually painting the stainless steel barrels - just when you thought Ruger couldn't get any dumber. Once again I am the anamoly, I would keep the finish as I prefer functionality to beauty but I would camo every gun I own if I could. |
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Originally Posted By PraesulPresul1:
Originally Posted By Rocketfish:
so this confirms they are actually painting the stainless steel barrels - just when you thought Ruger couldn't get any dumber. Once again I am the anamoly, I would keep the finish as I prefer functionality to beauty but I would camo every gun I own if I could. like I said earlier, if they're painting them, they are lying about it as well. I emailed Ruger and was told they're simply bead blasted stainless. I doubt they'd lie about such a simple item, but stranger things have happened with firearms. |
"The hawk does not fear you, boy, and the hawk never will. The hawk is God's gunslinger." -Stephen King
Simple solutions to complex problems...
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As for smoothing out the metal on metal action and trigger.... Have any of all y'all tried Z-Max or Prolong engine treatment? I use either on all of mine and have fantastic results with a smooth feel and minimal friction. They say that it soaks in to metal 100 times deeper than ordinary oil. Metal to metal friction is supposed to go to nearly nothin, My observation is that with a few drops in key places several times(3 to 5 because it soaks in) and the difference is great. My bolt gun, lever gun and revolver like it too.
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Originally Posted By wetidlerjr:
Originally Posted By Hendricks5150:
Originally Posted By singtoe:
Why didn't you remove the sight base before stripping? Second, how are you going to prevent oxidation of the aluminum? Lots of work and definetly better looking then factory. I red lock tighted it on. I couldn't find my soldering iron to heat up the screws to take the base off. I plan on replacing the stock on my 10/22 and when I do so, I will take the base off and get the rest of the paint. Put some flitz polish on some 0000 steel wool and rub it in once a year or so. It keeps the aluminum in tip top shape   Won't you get rust if you embed steel particles into the aluminum with the steel wool ? Use bronze wool and this definately won't happen (brownell's). |
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Now this is how they are supposed to look! 
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Originally Posted By Tommy-T:
Now this is how they are supposed to look!
These aren't mint collectables. They are run of the mill .22lr rifles. No reason to be a purist with 10/22's. 
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The receiver on my take down is aluminum and chemicals will quickly oxidize the surface. Even simply green and orange cleaner will ruin the surface. It cost about $100 but i bought a blast cabinet and stripped mine down with aluminum oxide and recoated it in cerakote patriot brown. After this photo i refinished the bolt in graphite black to take away the last of the glimmer. If you want the silver look, im pretty sure cerakote has that color.
 
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Using the Aircraft remover from parts store or like the one pictured is not safe for aluminum because it is a Methylene chloride, making it an alkaline ph which most strippers are (TRUE aircraft stripper is a acid ph). For aluminum you want something that does not have Methylene chloride and use an Acid ph substance.
I used a non alkaline base on a receiver I picked up and there were no markings or swirls, etc... After that I used mothers aluminum mag polish to get it to the max brightness. Just flip the cans around of Aircraft stripper from parts store, walmart, etc... you will see Methylene Chloride....if you buy true Aviation stripper though it is Acid ph. I love how someone said "It's aircraft stripper....airplanes are made out of aluminum." That doesn't mean some cheap ass stripper is safe for aluminum...haha. |
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Originally Posted By Tbone2299:
What is the blue stock in the OP's last picture? Looks like Boyd's Rimfire Thumbhole but not sure. Its a Revolution Tundra. It is similar to the Boyd's but you can tell the difference by comparing the forend. OP's rifle- 
Revolution Tundra- 
Boyd's Rimfire thumbhole- 
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Originally Posted By FreedomsnotFree4all: As for smoothing out the metal on metal action and trigger.... Have any of all y'all tried Z-Max or Prolong engine treatment? I use either on all of mine and have fantastic results with a smooth feel and minimal friction. They say that it soaks in to metal 100 times deeper than ordinary oil. Metal to metal friction is supposed to go to nearly nothin, My observation is that with a few drops in key places several times(3 to 5 because it soaks in) and the difference is great. My bolt gun, lever gun and revolver like it too. |
NRA Life, NRA Range Safety Officer, NRA Firearms Instructor, RBGC.org Range Officer, Certified 338 LM / 50BMG
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I hope someone can help me, I've run into a snag...
I tried to follow the original post's instructions, however Tal-Strip is not available near me. So I found another item, Klean-Strip Aircraft Paint Remover. When I applied it (taking all precautions OP specified), it also started to bubble right away, and I stripped off some paint, and later some clear type of coating. I did several applications of this, let them sit a while, and removed as much as I could. Afterwards, I used sandpaper on the receiver and the rail, re-applying some stripper and using toothpicks to get some hard-to-reach places. Here's the twist: My intention was to have the receiver and rail anodized to a blue-ish color, to match (as closely as possible) the other parts of my build. I found a place near me to do it for $100. I left the parts with them for the weekend, and when I picked them up, I was surprised/confounded/disappointed. The rail was a terrific shade of blue, and despite some unaffected nooks & crannies, I was still happy with the overall result. The receiver, however.... Looks bleak gray. It looks horrible. See photos below, but when the flash was used it looks slightly blue, but without flash it looks like it does to the naked eye, gray. (The anodizing place didn't even charge me, it came out so bad.) My question is: Is the coating still actually on there, and I just used an ineffective stripper? If so, can it sill somehow be removed? Is there any way to save this receiver, or should I give up all hope and just get a new one? If I can somehow find some Tal-Strip, might that be able to remove the grayness and allow a second chance at anodizing? Thank you in advance for your help. 
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