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GA, USA
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Do you go with an A-1 upper, A-2 upper or a flat top upper?
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Posted: 3/13/2005 5:53:39 PM EST
flat top...
sooooo many options as to how to sight the thing. if money is short, do a carry handle, later add glass or a dot! |
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Posted: 3/13/2005 5:55:38 PM EST
I like flattop first, my second choice would be an A1 or C7 (A1 with brass deflector).
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Posted: 3/13/2005 5:56:04 PM EST
16. i go flat top 100% .
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AL, USA
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Posted: 3/13/2005 6:00:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/13/2005 6:00:19 PM EST by jquillen1985]
Where can I get one of these C7's? And does anyone have the weight of a slick, A1, C7, and A2 receiever so I can compare? |
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MS, USA
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Posted: 3/13/2005 6:00:07 PM EST
A flattop with an Arms 40 will weight about the same as an A1, but you get all the options. Go flattop.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 3/13/2005 7:41:40 PM EST
Bushmaster's A1 upper is a "C7" upper. A1 rear sight, forward assist, deflector.
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Posted: 3/13/2005 7:48:05 PM EST
A1, no deflector.
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UT, USA
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Posted: 3/13/2005 7:48:41 PM EST
flatty
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Posted: 3/13/2005 8:03:25 PM EST
I built mine with the A2 upper and I like it just fine. It is still light in my hands (did I mention 6'2" - 235lbs?) so the little bit the sight weights in at doesn't bother me..... I like the A1 for it's simplicity though and the ruggedness of the setup. As for the Flat top upper, I just bought one for a project I am working on. Now all I have to do is finihs it!!!
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Posted: 3/13/2005 8:56:11 PM EST
I suppose the absolute lightest would be A1 carry handle, slabsides, no forward assist or brass deflector . However, the difference in weight with all of those items combined is about 5oz.
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USA
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Posted: 3/13/2005 9:00:13 PM EST
Good man. |
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USA
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Posted: 3/13/2005 9:21:38 PM EST
Should you go with a C7 upper, let me suggest you use a square A2 front sight post. Also, replace the rear sight blade with an A2 sight blade. This has the larger 0-200 aperture. While the windage drum is off, go back together with a Rapidex Windage Knob. This has 1/2 minute clicks and requires no tools to adjust. And you are unlikely to move it accidently even if bumped.
Then sight in at 50 yds as per the IBZ. This gives you, for all practical purposes, an iron sight system that is as good as the A2's. Hey, face it, you are not going to hit anything at 800m with iron sights anyway. |
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Posted: 3/13/2005 9:34:14 PM EST
flattop
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Posted: 3/13/2005 10:51:15 PM EST
Flat-top for the options A2 for simplicity.
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Posted: 3/13/2005 11:23:59 PM EST
A1.
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Posted: 3/14/2005 2:44:45 AM EST
I agree 
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Posted: 3/14/2005 2:53:14 AM EST
We can all give you advise based on our personal preferences, but we really don't know what you plan on using the gun for (ie. home defense, plinking, training classes, 3 gun / carbine matches, etc). What do you plan on using the gun for? Do you plan on using optics? What ranges do you anticipate doing a majority of your shooting at? etc. Some really good information was discussed in this thread: "The perfect tactical carbine"....things start getting interesting on page 2 and there is some really good info from page 2 to page 7....may give you some insight as to how you want to set up your lightweight carbine: www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=226012 |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 3/14/2005 5:26:32 AM EST
I built my lightweight carbine with an A3 upper. Once you add a rear sight (at added expense) you are up to the same weight as a carry handle. Since I happened to have an A1 upper with a HBAR on it, I switched the pencil bbl to the A1, and the HBAR to the A3 upper. The A3 with the HBAR is now my target/varmint gun. The A1 is now my lightweight carbine with the idea that I won't hang anything else on it to make it heavier. Just a simple, basic, light AR carbine.
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Posted: 3/14/2005 5:46:20 AM EST
Bushmaster (that is where I got mine).
Of course: M16 Upper 8.0 oz (no FA, no BD) M16A1 upper 11.2 oz (no BD) C7 Upper 11.5oz M16A2 Upper 12.8 oz Bushmaster Flattop upper 9.6oz (A2 type FA & BD) Fulton Armory T numbered flattop upper 8.0oz (A1 type FA & BD) |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 3/14/2005 6:09:08 AM EST
C7s at CMMG,DPMS.
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Posted: 3/14/2005 6:12:06 AM EST
I used a slickside A1 upper, replaced the aperture with an A2 aperture, and replaced the windage knob with a Bushmaster extended one. The whole thing is very light, functional, and looks good.
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PRK
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Posted: 3/14/2005 6:20:53 AM EST
I am building a lightweight. A C7 upper, with CMMG 14.7"w/A2 FH light weight barrel and CavArms C1/C4 furniture.
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GA, USA
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Posted: 3/14/2005 4:02:17 PM EST
This will be a basic home defense-general purpose rifle..........I am already working on an M4gery and a midlength rifle, so I wanted something with a difference.........the other two rifles will have flat top uppers.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/14/2005 4:12:03 PM EST
What He said. Yep. Tex78 |
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Posted: 3/14/2005 4:22:02 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/14/2005 4:23:08 PM EST by Boomholzer]
I built my 16" pencil-barreled AR to be no-nonsense with no bells and whistles. A2 "carry-handle" upper with a 6-position telestock. The purpose being a utility "backpack" rifle.
The detachable carry handle just isn't the same IMO. Depends on what you have and the ultimate utility. If its the only AR (for now  ) I would go with the flat-top for versatility, if you already own a flat-top and are aiming for the basic lightweight and functional AR and plan not to add a optic, I would opt for the A1 or A2.
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TN, USA
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Posted: 3/15/2005 2:51:55 AM EST
Mine is an A2 upper, in fact both on mine are A2 as that is the only way to go for a carbine. This is a short range reaction rifle, and should use only ghost ring (larger opening in rear sight) for sighting. It won't break, have a dead battery, be loose or in the other closet, or suffer from any other excuse when you use it. It will be accurate enough if you do your part.
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