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Posted: 12/10/2013 11:34:32 AM EST
I have an opportunity to purchase a M61 SHO. I know that the M61 is a great drop in, but am not familiar with the SHO.

The drop in will go into a SF 6p mounted on one of my rifles. Can anyone comment on the SHO, especially when used for weapon mounted applications?
Link Posted: 12/10/2013 2:24:43 PM EST
Originally Posted By RebelAR-15:
I have an opportunity to purchase a M61SHO. I know that the M61 is a great drop in, but am not familiar with the SHO.

The drop in will go into a SF 6p mounted on one of my rifles. Can anyone comment on the SHO, especially when used for weapon mounted applications?
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Both are great performers, with the M61SHO being driven harder as it is optimized for 3-4 batteries. Both utilize XP-G2 emitters. The output is similar between the two (325 vs. 385 OTF lumens), but your eyes will not tell.

I went with the M61 over the SHO.
Link Posted: 12/10/2013 4:15:47 PM EST
Is it harder on a 2 battery light when running the SHO? Any issues with excess heat created?
Link Posted: 12/11/2013 4:27:57 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/11/2013 4:28:20 AM EST by Half-Bear]
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Originally Posted By RebelAR-15:
Is it harder on a 2 battery light when running the SHO? Any issues with excess heat created?
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Yes in a sense that it draws more affecting the full output runtime. If you plan on using your flashlight for extended periods, your light will get warm regardless. Optimal heat dissipation requires a thermal path from the module to the flashlight body. Contrary to the name "drop in", P60 modules are supposed to fit tightly, malkoffs are no exception.

Wrapping the module with foil or copper tape are popular methods of fitting the module.
Link Posted: 12/11/2013 11:08:34 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Half-Bear:

Yes in a sense that it draws more affecting the full output runtime. If you plan on using your flashlight for extended periods, your light will get warm regardless. Optimal heat dissipation requires a thermal path from the module to the flashlight body. Contrary to the name "drop in", P60 modules are supposed to fit tightly, malkoffs are no exception.

Wrapping the module with foil or copper tape are popular methods of fitting the module.
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Originally Posted By Half-Bear:
Originally Posted By RebelAR-15:
Is it harder on a 2 battery light when running the SHO? Any issues with excess heat created?

Yes in a sense that it draws more affecting the full output runtime. If you plan on using your flashlight for extended periods, your light will get warm regardless. Optimal heat dissipation requires a thermal path from the module to the flashlight body. Contrary to the name "drop in", P60 modules are supposed to fit tightly, malkoffs are no exception.

Wrapping the module with foil or copper tape are popular methods of fitting the module.


How much heat do those SHO's put out in comparison to the standard incan. bulbs that come in the Surefires? Assuming they have the same current draw (I don't know if they do or not), aren't the LED's more efficient and they'd put out less heat for the amount of power used? I've got a cheap Ebay $14 LED replacement in a Surefire, maybe a (200 lumen) equivalent, and it sure runs cool compared to the stock incandescent bulb.
Link Posted: 12/11/2013 11:37:49 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/11/2013 11:40:20 AM EST by Half-Bear]
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Originally Posted By jcriley:


How much heat do those SHO's put out in comparison to the standard incan. bulbs that come in the Surefires? Assuming they have the same current draw (I don't know if they do or not), aren't the LED's more efficient and they'd put out less heat for the amount of power used? I've got a cheap Ebay $14 LED replacement in a Surefire, maybe a (200 lumen) equivalent, and it sure runs cool compared to the stock incandescent bulb.
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Originally Posted By jcriley:
Originally Posted By Half-Bear:
Originally Posted By RebelAR-15:
Is it harder on a 2 battery light when running the SHO? Any issues with excess heat created?

Yes in a sense that it draws more affecting the full output runtime. If you plan on using your flashlight for extended periods, your light will get warm regardless. Optimal heat dissipation requires a thermal path from the module to the flashlight body. Contrary to the name "drop in", P60 modules are supposed to fit tightly, malkoffs are no exception.

Wrapping the module with foil or copper tape are popular methods of fitting the module.


How much heat do those SHO's put out in comparison to the standard incan. bulbs that come in the Surefires? Assuming they have the same current draw (I don't know if they do or not), aren't the LED's more efficient and they'd put out less heat for the amount of power used? I've got a cheap Ebay $14 LED replacement in a Surefire, maybe a (200 lumen) equivalent, and it sure runs cool compared to the stock incandescent bulb.

Take into account that not all LEDs are created equal, depending on the emitter, driver etc. Incandescents work differently than LEDs as they work by getting hot, radiating heat.

The thermal threshold for LEDs are low in comparison to incans. This is why thermal management is important for any modern LED flashlight.
Link Posted: 12/12/2013 8:07:44 AM EST
I tried a SHO in my 6P and it only worked for a few seconds. Then in dimmed and "went out of regulation" or whatever. I believe it need 3 cells or a rechargable and now it happily resides in my 9P, where it works great. In a 3 cell light, I believe it is superior to a regular M61.

BTW, did Malkoff increase the output of the M61? They now list 325 lumens while the ones I purchased a year ago show 265 I believe. Or did they just measure light output a "new" way???
Link Posted: 12/12/2013 2:30:39 PM EST
The SHO is rated to operate in the range of 5.5-12 volts. A pair of CR123's will drop below the lower level after only a short time under load. Like you said, it's designed for 3 cell lights.

The increase in M61 output is due to the use of the newer Cree XP-G2 emitter which is up to 20% more efficient than the previous XP-G. The drive current may have also been increased a little bit but I can't remember for sure.
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