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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 7/16/2005 8:29:10 AM EDT
I think I'm the kind of person who would rather do it myself than buy anything. So I've been wondering if this would work for some time now, I finally tried it. My goal was to reduce the takeup time and over travel on a standard AR trigger...Here are my results:

I took a DPMS lower that's been sitting for some time now and went to town.

I picked up the following items, total price was like 6 bucks I think,

6x34 tap
no32 drillbit
2 6x34 set screws
blue loc-tite

Here's the sequence of events..

Step 1: The dogs and I went out to the garage and gathered all the parts I thought I would need:


Step 2: I mounted the lower in the drill press vice, and drilled two holes. The rear most hole is centered around 10mm to the rear of the trigger cutout, the front hole is centered about 5mm to the front.


Step 3: I then tapped the two holes with the 6x34 tap. Cleaned them up and started test fitting the screws.


Step 4: Here the screws are mounted and loc-tite'd in the lower exactly where I wanted them.


Step 5: The lower complete. Assembled with trigger parts for testing. Works like a champ in my hands, time for a range test.


In all I'd say that I reduced the trigger travel by over half. The actual trigger pull, weight, remains the same; in the 7-8 pound range. I'm going to take it out and give it a whirl sometime today probably, I'll inform the results then.

Thanks for looking
Matt
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 8:37:00 AM EDT
Great work. You have more cajhonas than I ever would, drilling into a lower recevier like that.
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 8:40:28 AM EDT
Thanks Mongo! I take that as a real compliment comming from the "Evil Machinist".


Originally Posted By mongo001:
Great work. You have more cajhonas than I ever would, drilling into a lower recevier like that.

Link Posted: 7/16/2005 8:59:46 AM EDT
very cool
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 9:09:11 AM EDT
Seeing that lower getting drilled into gives me the same chills when I watch movies where someone gets kicked in the balls.

Hope this works out for you.
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 9:11:52 AM EDT
pretty cool
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 9:12:19 AM EDT
Big balls...
Looks good.
Tell us how it works when you shoot it.
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 9:52:40 AM EDT
I'm curious as to whether you'll have to adjust the disconnecter timing after altering the range of the trigger's movement.

I did a somewhat similar experiment several years ago (I ran a set screw up through the pistol grip screw hole to adjust take up) IIRC the disconnecter then required re timing to properly reset.
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 10:02:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/16/2005 10:03:13 AM EDT by ggllggll]
Its right at the threashhold now. I tried to put a setscrew in the forward most part of the disconnector channel, in the trigger. For the purpose of timing the diss. I had no luck as the trigger apears to be hardned as it should be I guess. But good comment!

Originally Posted By GunCat:
I'm curious as to whether you'll have to adjust the disconnecter timing after altering the range of the trigger's movement.

I did a somewhat similar experiment several years ago (I ran a set screw up through the pistol grip screw hole to adjust take up) IIRC the disconnecter then required re timing to properly reset.

Link Posted: 7/16/2005 10:39:12 AM EDT
Perhaps you could explain how this works in a bit more detail. Break it down barney style if you will It seems to me that what you've done is by placing teh set screws have reduced the amount of travel required to engage the trigger, am I understanding this correctly? If so then how do typical two stage triggers work, for example the RRA NM trigger. Thanks

Steve
Link Posted: 7/16/2005 4:29:32 PM EDT

Originally Posted By NUcadet07:
Perhaps you could explain how this works in a bit more detail. Break it down barney style if you will It seems to me that what you've done is by placing teh set screws have reduced the amount of travel required to engage the trigger, am I understanding this correctly? If so then how do typical two stage triggers work, for example the RRA NM trigger. Thanks

Steve



Yes your right, I took some of the travel out of the trigger. The rear screw takes the initial travel out of the picture. The front spring takes care of the overtravel, after the hammer is released. This provides a trigger that is about 4mm of travel. Two stage triggers provide a smooth takeup, or travel. Then the second stage is only a pound or so more than the first. This way you know exactly when the trigger will break every time. To my knowledge RRA two stages do not adjust for travel and overtravel, but I may be wrong.

Matt
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 10:56:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/1/2005 10:56:15 AM EDT by ggllggll]
.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 11:38:33 AM EDT
How did it work for you on the firingline?
You pinged my curioustiy, please deliver some info!
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 1:32:41 PM EDT
tag. looks promising.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 1:49:16 PM EDT
tag


LB
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 2:08:17 PM EDT
taggage for the other cheapskates here...
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 2:44:03 PM EDT
Cool!!!

Please let us know the results!!
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 3:02:22 PM EDT
Tag for range report.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 4:16:19 PM EDT
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