In the same vein as AR15.com/Lazy's Steyr AUG log - this will be a thread as my own record-keeping log; but posted here on-line for those who might be curious as a rifle's life progresses.  I will keep a running tally of every round fired, adjustments and experiences.  The point of the log is an accurate representation of what actually happens, as well as my own record keeping on settings and other user-specific details.  It's not to fan-boy nor bash; but the intent is an honest and useful record keeping.

While many besmirch a low cost provider, and PSA has had stumbles (biggest being, YOU are their QC department.  But at least PSA will stand behind it and repair/replace whatever you ask); I personally do like PSA and think they're a good company that makes a good product, run by good people.  But bear in mind, I'm an engineer, so I'm always looking for optimizing that second derivative (i.e. the inflection point where investment to benefit is maximized).

I'm posting this in the Precision Rifle: Semi-Auto forum, rather than some of the other options, because to me, a 6.5 CM with an HBAR is a precision rifle, and I figure this audience is going to be the most interested, and more topically experienced for useful feedback over the life of this rifle.

My requirements for this rifle:
-Reliable (<1 jam / 500 rounds, once broken in; preferably better),
-Accurate (for me, < 1MOA with the right ammo, preferably crowding <0.8 MOA.),
-Pleasing user-experience (obviously subjective),
-Minimum cost (while still satisfying the above)

Rifle background: PSA shipped to a local supplier, who did the transfer.  
It's a PA10 lower, with their PA65 upper on it (will upload photo)



It's the same as this guys rifle:  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rel-WwyIdhw

Specs of relevance:  
-20" 1/8 SS BBL
-PSA's current gen small pin double ejector BCG
-Adjustable gas block
-Magpul MDR stock on PSA's PA-10 buffer tube.  (adjust to 2 notches in from back, to equal length of pull of an AR15A2 with fixed buttstock; and marked that spot with a silver sharpie)

Modifications and additions:
-Removed flash hider and installed Gamma's 6.5 3-chamber muzzle brake (they make really good brakes); used a shim kit in conjunction with crush washer.  (I had once fired another's PSA 65 CM, and found the recoil suprisingly higher than anticipated - moreso than even a bolt action 6.5 CM; and this muzzle brake greatly tames that).

-Added a based Amazon budget graphite bipod with included M-Lok adaptor.  Leave the adaptor on, for the sling swivel.

-Use a basic budget nylon sling, with a QD mount for the MagPul QD buttstock, and an older stud-style quick-connect sling point that mates up with the bipod system.
-For now, just running a budget $70 Walmart CenterPoint 4-16X scope, on a Weaver (PSA style) low cost 1-piece mount.  [Ordered a Primary Arms 3-18X 6.5CM scope w/ Deluxe 1-piece mount; on backorder; for about $500 + $50]

cleaned it and lubed it up.

Assessment before firing:

The good:
-This is a very handsome rifle, in my opinion. At nominally $750-$800, the price point is pretty incredible.  I like how the handguard looks and with good weight savings features there.
-The 2-stage trigger is actually pretty darned good.  I wouldn't call it a Geisselle, but about as good as LaRue's I'd say.  Normally that's an adder worth about about a $100-$200, but came included in the rifle.
-The features, apparent quality of construction, and "feel" are good.  
-I like having an adjustable gas-block.  Especially since the AR10 6.5 CM platform isn't really standardized yet (one reason I didn't just parts-build my own)
-After handling AR10's like the Armalite version of the AR10 a few years ago, I like the way the controls are laid out on this one.  (Armalite has a goofy release system).
-I like the BCG, and the twin ejectors and the small diameter firing pin (and hole).  6.5 Creedmoor is a 62,000 PSI SAAMI spec cartridge, while .308 is 55,000(?, ish) PSI spec, so being tuned for the higher pressure world, is good.
-It ships with an H-buffer.

The bad:
-It uses PSA Gen2 receiver set.  Which is a fine set, but I was holding out and hoping for the smaller/lighter DPMS Gen2 (PX-10) style receiver engineering, to save on weight and bulk.  I finally gave up and pulled the trigger when the price point got this low.  Point being, it's heavy and longer than technically it could have been engineered to be.
-The handguard has integrated QD mounting points - which don't actually work.  The holes are at the chamber area (just in front of the reciever), where the HBAR chamber area is still swollen out and too thick, so the QD mounting stud bottoms out against the barrel, before it goes in far enough to engage.  (I'm actually thinking about drilling another QD hole in the forward portion of the rail, but want to proceed with care, lest I screw that up and it looks bad.)
-The adjustable gas system came factory adjusted more open than needed.  Will post on how I adjusted it, but it was correctable.  Frankly, they probably need a smaller port hole, because you only use a tiny span of the range of adjustment, to actually adjust.
-[well.. maybe, this might be overstated some] I don't like how they thread muzzle-end of the barrel.  They put a small taper in the barrel shank, going down to the threads; I'm guessing to eliminate that potentially sharp angle there (where the flash-hider would bottom out against the barrel shank).  Unfortunately, that machining makes engagement with a shim-kit diminished.  It works fine with a crush-washer, where the smaller half of the crush-washer fully engages the end of the barrel there just fine.  But with a flat shim-kit, those will only engage about half the surface area it otherwise would; had they left a sharper end there against the threads.  Shim kits are what the cool-kids use for suppressors and other systems, because you get a more controlled engagement and straighter engagement than you can sometimes get with a crush washer.  This matters with suppressors.  It works, but I would have preferred if the barrel were cut with a sharper square end there, rather than a rounded out taper for the sharp-edge removal.
-Since AR10 platform is non-standard, I might be pretty much locked into PSA for all major parts, upgrades, and BBL's, going forward.  That's true of any provider, but PSA isn't exactly a boutique provider, so if I want a 16" skinny BBL, or a 24" HBAR to put on when I wear this BBL out, that might be harder to source than some other brands - we'll see.
-The cotter pin that holds the firing pin in the BCG, is rather difficult to fully reinsert into the BCG.

The Ugly:
As much as I love PSA, and recommend them - it is an unfortunate truth that you really are their QC department.  In particular:

-PSA has the oddest oversight, in that they don't screw in the magazine release into the button to full-spec; like... ever.  They always short rotate it a few revolutions.  No biggie, the guns will run fine and most people never even notice it.  But the button does stick out a touch further this way.  Easily fixed, all you have to do is push the button in, and spin the magazine release latch in a couple more times yourself.  No big deal, this is pretty much a non-item, but it does crack me up on how this assembly aspect bests them every time.

-My receiver extension (i.e. the buffer tube) was over-torqued, and over-rotated.  I didn't know that was even possible, since I thought the little tang and matching cut in the buffer tube prevented that, but apparently not.  Turns out, this was easily fixed and only took a few minutes with an armors wrench and some blue loctite, but it does mean my castle-nut ring staking had to be broken.  Oh well, you don't actually need that staking, and the blue loctite will take care of that, so mostly a non-item.

A couple hundred rounds fired so far, and will update later tonight, with photos, with round-count progression and reporting of any malfunctions, as well as accuracy reports.

I have the same rifle, absolutely love it!  Had to play with the gas block some to correct the FTF/FTE issue it was having but overall, love it.

Jim

I have mine scoped with an illuminated 4-16x primary arms.

Good gawd it's heavy

1/26/2019 usage:  Fired 85 rounds (and assuming around 15 rounds were factory fired before my usage; based on prior fouling and buildup).   Experienced a few jams while adjusting the gas block and break-in.  By end of out outing, with adjusted block, this rifle was experiencing no jams.

Configured the rifle with a Burris XTR II for this outing and for precision testing of some load development/testing.  For magazines, used 20 round and 10 round PMags.  Magazines inserted and dropped freely.  Bolt drop was a little stiffer than a lighter AR15, but as break-in occured, it seemed to smooth up.

Fired a few shots at 50 yards to set the scope, then moved out to 200 yards, and fired from a bench using the bipod.  See photo (note the overrotated buffer tube in this one causing the stock to be rotated too far; prior to me fixing that.  It's straight now)



Traced rounds for Chrony velocity using a Labradar.  Fired 5 shot groups (unless otherwise noted, some were just 3 shot groups), and analyzed paper targets using RangeBuddy App to determine: group size (MOA), Mean Radius (MOA), and group-center-point-of-impact shift from point-of-aim (in inches).

Came home and compiled and studied some data, while music is playing on the other screen:
[

Two loads of Federal Factory ammo were tested, along with various handloads of different components (most with Hornady brass and S&B LR primers).  


From this graph, we see the AR10 shot decent.  Some loads were well over the 1 MOA goal, but quite a few were under it as well.  The 90 TNT is being tested as a budget handload (quite inexpensive), and it shot... decent for what it is, I guess.  1.2 MOA, which more of a gong-banger, but OK.  

The two hot loads with 42.6 gr RE16 didn't really preform very well, and my RPR historically likes these.  They also pierced primers in a few of the shots, so that's not good; though I don't blame the gun, they'll primer pierce in the RPR at times even, and really these are too hot.  I do not recommend 42.6 gr RE16, and won't be making any more that hot.  Main problem really was the S&B primers, which are soft, and not designed for a 65,000 PSA SAAMI rated 6.5 CM (.308 etc are closer to 55,000 PSI spec).  With a harder primer, you can probably still run it that hot, but I doubt I will regardless.

The milder tests with 42.0 gr RE16 and those two bullets (143 and 147) gave decent performance, particularly when switched to a BR2 primer (which had less cratering than the S&B primers).

Moving into the Fusion bullets, and RE16 and MP580 (which is IMR4166; despite what American Reloader says); we can see the 1 MOA metric was beatable, depending on what charge was used.  

The next clump of tests was a progression of four loads (in it's own cluster in the graph there in the middle-right).  You can see that beating 1 MOA was possible in most of the lots tested, and the warmest one crowded my 0.8 MOA goal, which is pretty good.  I won't go any hotter though, as primer cratering started showing up.

The final two on the far right, are the factory Federal ammo, and the RPR liked the Federal fusion, giving me better than 1 MOA.


The real test is in Mean Radius, which I consider more statistically relevant, and that is in our next graph.  

As can be seen, relative rankings are about the same.

Now lets look at Muzzle velocity, and velocity standard deviation:




The little 90 gr bullet was zinging along out of this 20" BBL at solid over 3000 FPS.  The 143 and 147 loads were all close (ish) to each other in the 2600-2700fps range.  

Not surprisingly the 140gr / MP580 loads were slow, as IMR 4166 is a bit fast for a heavy 140 gr 6.5 CM bullet, and I couldn't go much hotter before primer piecing becomes a threat.  

The IMR4064 loads with the 140gr Federal fusion show the expected progression of velocity with increasing powder charge.  What's real intersting is how strongly charge is correlated to velocity standard deviation as well.  4064 likes to run hot, and standard deviation got to as low as 5 fps, at the high end.  I quite like that 36.4 gr load, as it's very accurate, even though it is poking along at just 2500 fps.  

Truth to tell, the standard deviation in velocity of almost everything tested, was quite good.  Many loads were crowding 5 FPS stnadard deviation, which is just remarkable actually.  A few went high, and the 90 gr load (not shown), actually hit 100 fps standard deviation, making that a shorter range (<300 yard) plinker load; which is fine actually.  Even the factory ammo was at 10 fps standard deviation; that's really good.

The Federal factory loads were moving along at a nice 2600 FPS.  

And on a final note, here's the muzzle energy out of the PSA 20" Rifle:



To make it cycle reliably, I did have to adjust the gas-setting:

Loosen up the screw in the front, then adjust this one all the way in, until bottomed out.  Then opened it up ultimately to about 1.25 turns open (I think, need to keep notes here on that).  Then tighten up the front screw to lock this one in place.  It came factory open at around 2.5-3 turns, which is too much.

Overall impression: Not bad!  An $800 rifle that's reliable and can easily show better than 1 MOA while still breaking in, and even showing better than 0.8 MOA.  Though I think quite a few more groups are in order, before really calling this a sub-MOA rifle.  

Returned home for a detailed cleaning, using bore brush and solvents.  When done, used a Hornady comparator tool to measure OAL of a round to engage rifling.  Using a Hornady 147 gr bullet, OAL to engaging throat is 2.786"  (will track that as time progresses, to watch the throat erosion, essentially, that number is my "0" erosion number)
Total round count: 100

Related to above post, and to retain for my records:

Lot 65-55: Mild 140 gr Federal Fusions with 36.4 IMR 4064 will be a spec load for this rifle, even though a little light.  They're accurate and dirt cheap, and burn up my 4064 in inventory.  At 200 yards, POI shift analysis shows to run elevation 0.2 MIL higher than typical for the other 143/147 gr loads, and factor 140 gr loads, which all are hotter.  From there, use a ballistic calculator for Federal Fusion 140 gr bullet at 2571 +/-5 FPS.  This spec is lot #65-55 (and have already run up another 150 of these).  This still hits hard enough to be a reasonable hunting spec load.

Lot 65-47: For the 90 gr TNT, spec load for this rifle is 44.4 gr MP530 (CFE223):  200 yard POI is same scope setting at the 143 gr loads and factory ammo.  Use 3165 +/0 68 FPS in ballistic calculator with SPEER 90 gr TNT bullet.  This spec is lot #65-36a (have now run made over 100 of these for further shooting; these can even be made in the progressive, since using a ball powder for this).

Lot 65-61: For 143 gr Hornady ELD-X, spec load is now 42.0 gr Reloader16:  200 yard POI is standard reference scope setting (which is + 6 3/4 L 6 1/2 MOA, on the cheap CenterPoint - which will be going away soon enough).  Muzzle Velocity is 2677 +/- 7  FPS in this 20" BBL.  This spec is lot# 65-61.  Change the primers to either CCI BR2, or at least try some of the Winchester LR in inventory.  This will be my serious purpose competition and hunting spec.

On a retention note, S&B are good LR primers, but basically need to stick with milder loads in 6.5CM, when using those.

Tagged

I went with more 'premium' products in my 6.5C build. Waiting on a scope mount to fire it. Considered PSA but felt like building. Glad to see you're getting good results

1/28/2019 update:  Fired 4 rounds at 300 yards.  No failures.

Fired lot 65-11a (those Hot 143 gr H loads, because I still have some), using bipod.  Group was 0.7MOA, and impacted as expected on the target (used 200 yard zero on purpose).  Shot good.

Total round count: 104

Indeed.  I was using another of this this exact spec rifle deer hunting this year.  It was stalk-hunting, where we patrolled 200 acres for 2 days straight looking for deer.  The Bipod was popped off for all that, and a 10 round magazine was being used.  This rifle gets heavy in your hands after carrying it all day, I'll say that.  I did manage to drop a deer offhand with it, firing a hot 143 gr load, and it was a 1-shot DeadRightThere hit, but really, only at something like 30 yards.  Basically, I aimed through an opening I knew it would have to cross, and pulled the trigger when I saw brown, so I can't get all supreme about my shot placement, but hey, it worked.  To be honest, the exit hole was pretty small by the way, I think my success had more to do with shot placement, than terminal performance that day.

The reason I got it, and my hunting partner did not, is I had my rifle in my hands, and his was in a sling.  I do think the Magpul adjustible stock, vs fixed, saves some weight, and I think the forward handguard saves some weight as well, but you can only do so much with a BBL that thick!  I see now why 6.5Grendal is so popular, and I very well may get one of those - but that's another thread; this one is focused on the Creedmoor.

I have the Primary Arms 3-18 6.5CM scope on order for this rifle.  We'll see if that was a good idea, because I think that's even heavier than my current 4-16 scope.  Stand by for reports on that, when I get it.

Usage note (for the log).  The lightweight handguard is quite good, but due to lightening cuts in the top of it, there's nothing blocking heat from the gas-tube and barrel from rising directly up.  So after firing 50 rounds in a relatively short period of time, there can be enough heat mirage to start affecting optical behavior (barrel mirage).

Love that you're doing this.  I experienced most of what you did regarding being their QC Guinea Pig, but I also was familiar enough with them that I knew this would be the case.  Hope springs eternal, and their deals are too good to pass up sometimes, even if it means a little bit of tweaking.  I don't mind it, especially since I learn something new each time that will help me diagnose failures down the road on like-platforms.

My PA65 has a different rail than yours, which is unfortunate, because you can't access the locking screw for the ADJ GB without taking the rail all the way off.

The accuracy results are almost identical, too--Mine does ok with 140gr ELD-M factory ammo, but is over-gassed.  It does REALLY well (1 MOA) with the 120gr ELD-M factory load, and gas is tuned for that.

Keep the data coming!

lazye...good writeup and data.  I was curious on one comment near your start of the good, bad, ugly:

"-After handling AR10's like the Armalite version of the AR10 a few years ago, I like the way the controls are laid out on this one. (Armalite has a goofy release system)."

I was taking the "release system" as meaning the mag release...or was that referencing something else?

I got to handle the Gen2...not small frame but like yours...6.5CM version of the rifle at one of my local gun stores.  I too was impressed by the finish and fit quality of the rifle and components.

If I were starting out in the large frame AR10 category, I have to admit that I'd be strongly tempted by this rifle...in 6.5CM rather than .308, but they're basically the same rifle.

My bad, I meant Rock River Arms; they have a goofy bolt release


As to 6.5CM vs .308, since I don't already own a .308, it was a very easy decision in 2018 to just bypass it entirely and go direct to 6.5CM

LOL!, my bad.  I somehow thought your thread started on a .308 vs. the 6.5CM.  Good choice.

That 6.5CM PSA I looked at in the local store surprised me that it was even there.  I know the folks that own that store.  I asked one why they had a PSA on the rack when they're normally purchased online.

The response..."after a couple of customers had really good results with them, we decided to buy a few because we can't really source much else that competes with that price and quality at that price."

That kind of says something there.  I have a pair of Armalite AR10's that I'm extremely happy with so I'm not in the market...but otherwise...pretty sure I'd have to try one.

Yeah, on my Armalite bolt release question, thanks for the clarification.  That does look odd on that RRA...didn't know that.

Thanks for doing this OP! We need more people to do things like this. I got Into the 6.5CM world about a year ago.

2/18/2019 update:  Fired 24 rounds at 200 yards.  No failures.

A quick shot of getting the @PalmettoStateArmory rifle ready:

(Today's music playing during assessment: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSfOB8ANdWU

Using bipod, fired 10 of the 143 gr hot loads at steel and paper, and shot quick, some shots were rapid fire, to test gun reliability, and how quickly it returned to target.  With a warm 143 gr load, the gun does want to move around more than a .223!  But it was quite manageable, gun ran smooth and reliable.  Accuracy was decent; wasn't shooting for groups, but for tracking purposes, did pull down the paper and scanned the results.  Pleased with the reliability in everything from 90 gr to 143 gr loads.

The hot 143's with S&B Primers.  Gun doesn't seem to really sing with them, and not too inconsistent with the results posted above.  


Here's the recoil impulse from a friend shooting it.  As you can see, pretty much nothing noteworthy, due to the brake.



Here are the results with mild 90's.  Interestingly, I dropped into a prone position and fired 3 shots into the target as fast as I reacquired it, which was pretty quick.  And it shot well.

The powder is a CFE223, and for some reason the rims of the casings of this lot, tend to get sooty.  Very odd, the casings don't get sooty, but the insides of the rims with this load do; how it gets back there to do that, I don't know.  Anyway, seems to shoot good.

AR10's do suffer from brass abuse a bit, and the vampire bite is pretty pronounced on the neck. I wish PSA (and others) would touch-up the tip of the insides of just those two lugs in the barrel extension.  This would be the lugs the bolt locks into, and in particular the two ones the ejector is pushing the brass into, on it's way coming out of the chamber.  Just the mildest of touch with a file on those two points would greatly diminish this.  When it comes to 6.5CM, it's rare to find someone who doesn't reload for it.




Total round count: 128

2/23/2019 update:  Fired 72 rounds at 200 yards.  Interesting results.



3 Ammo's to test (of widely varying power).  Gas system set at 1 1/3 revolution (at first):
-Hornady 140gr factory tipped ammo (just 3 rounds)
-Federal NonTypical Hunting factory ammo (just 5 rounds)
-and the rest was a light power load of 140 gr hunting ammo.

The hunting load in particular (Lot 65-47), was made on mixed field-recovered brass, using the very inexpensive Speer 140 gr soft tip bullet (Spitzer), using a powder nominally too fast to be ideal for that (IMR 4166, which was purchased as MP580).   The first three 5-shot groups all cycled and fed fine with this unusual load, though accuracy (at first), wasn't very good, at 2-3 MOA.  This was gong-banger ammo, but that's OK, as that was its goal.  Primers showed pressure sign, but due to the fast powder, velocity was known to actually be low, and the pressure curve at the gas-port was likely low.

Then it got interesting.

Switched to the 140 gr Federal Non-Typical Factory ammo, which was notably hotter.  Out of 5 shots, the gun jammed 2 or 3 times, either by the extracted case not ejecting correctly, or not extracting at all.


Probably overgassed, so started adjusting the gas system along the way.  Closed to 1 1/8 rev's from closed and gun still did a fail to extract.


Finally closed gas all the way down to 7/8 rev, which seemed to fix the cycling issue.  But sure enough, when switched back to the weak Lot 65-47, now THAT load wouldn't cycle.  In this case, it would fire and eject, but not even try stripping the next round into the gun, so it would just go "click" on an empty chamber, on follow-up shots.   I decided to run all 5 shots just manually cycling from the magazine.

And then it got interesting.

That 5-shot group, now that the gas system wasn't really working fully, shot a remarkable 0.84 MOA 5-shot group, that was way tighter than the same ammo when the gun had enough gas to cycle.  I'm not really sure why that would be, but I did notice at least some of those wider 3 MOA groups, were mostly vertical stringing.  Whereas when the gas system wasn't working, that load got really tight.  Strange.

For what it's worth, the Federal NonTypical 140 gr ammo shot 1.4 MOA, and mostly vertical as well.

Interesting.  So I adjusted the gas back to 1 1/3 rev's open.

Then it got interesting

The mild loads, that cycled just fine a few minutes ago at the same gas setting, still wouldn't cycle.  I opened up the gas more.  to 1 2/3 rev's.  Still no cycle.   Opened to 2 revolutions from fully closed, and NOW the gun started to cycle, but still not always reliable.  Now I had to open the gas system pretty much all the way, for that same ammo that had just been running well, to actually run correctly.  I don't have a good explanation for this, other than perhaps the gun was starting to get dirty and bog down?  Frankly, I don't really buy that, but not sure what else it could be.

Took the gas back down to 1 1/3 rev's, shot the 2 factory 140 gr rounds left, which cycled fine, and then had to open the gas all the way again, to shoot the weak ammo.  Once done, went home with the gas system set at 1 1/4 revs (for now).



For now at least, for gas:
-Weak load of AR15 speed powders with 140 gr bullets (i.e. high peak pressure, but slow velocity and likely low port-pressure in this rifle-length gas system): run >2 revolutions open (though no explanation why it ran just fine at a much tighter setting for first few rounds).  
-Standard factory and other hot heavy ammo, run gas system down to the < 1 1/3 Turn range.
-I don't have a good explanation on why the gas setting so drastically affected accuracy performance, and this phenominae bugs me some.  I'll need to test some more, with more appropriate match quality ammo, using a more appropriate powder.

Kind of wish the gas system allowed more rapid field adjustment changes, like on an AUG or FAL or other guns, as the tiny Allen screws aren't really Rapid field adjustable.  I'm glad to have an adjustable system at all though, as this would be unusable on a non-adjustable system.

Also 6.5 CM is an unusually high pressure round (65,000 PSI, whereas 308 and .223 are about 10,000 PSI lower).  Combined that, with this spread of ammo - is asking a lot; so I'm not sure if I can really fault the gun for the reliability issue.  One corrective action I did, was to burn up all of that particular batch of weak ammo, and just not make any more.

Total round count: 200

I've got the same rifle. I did some work to it also. Trued the receiver face and glued the barrel in and also use a CMC trigger. No testing before hand so I don't have a comparison. But it loves 140gr ELD-M factory stuff. As long as I do my part, it will go below an inch every time. It wasn't like that at first though. Took probably 200 rounds or so and it quite literally closed within a group. I was shooting and it was 1.25 or so for a couple and then just shrunk down. I'm not sure if there was a burr in the barrel or what. But something happened.

The rifle gets used in PRS regional matches and I can hold my own just fine with the Curtis, Defiance and Surgeon bolt guns and JP built gassers.

2/24/2019 Log update:  Cleaned the rifle and measured throat erosion.

By the way, musical selection while conducting this project:


Despite being close to 100 round fired since last cleaning, the rifle was remarkably clean.  When cleaning, I start with a dry patch first, and it came out almost white.  Upon disassembly, the interior of the BCG (where the bolt rides), and the bolt tail, were both very clean as well.

Interestingly, I had a couple of these non-ferrous (brass I assume) hard balls come out when I pulled out the firing pin.  They came out when I pulled the firing pin out.  Not really sure what these are, some sort of left overs?  Pierce primer detritus? I have a couple of pierced primers in the prior outing (and hadn't cleaned), so maybe this is the primer part and it came into the firing-pin channel?  It didn't come from the gas system, as that part hadn't been unsealed yet (i.e. the bolt was still inside the carrier).   Just odd.



Maybe it is a pierce primer, they don't respond to a magnet.  In any event, I'll be backing off that load.  Also, I cant' say I recommend S&B primers for 6.5 CM.  They just don't seem to hold up to the 10,000 PSI higher rating 6.5CM has over the likes of 30-06 P rating.  Some tests with CCI looks like those are stronger, and I'll be doing some comparison CCI/S&B tests.  For milder loads, I guess S&B is OK.  

2700 FPS for a 143gr bullet out of a 20" BBL is fairly hot; and too hot for these primers.  Tip of firing pin, and firing pin hole both look fine (a testimony to PSA picking good metallurgical parts; though I don't intend to continue abusing them, regardless)

Measured throat erosion after the cleaning, Hornady tool; using a 147gr H ELD bullet.  These are a little tricky to use, and my criteria is just enough force to not wedge the bullet into the lands (i.e. just short of requiring a cleaning rod to pop back out), while wiggling things a bit.  Then measure the OAL.  Which tells you max OAL to seat that bullet, and also let's you track throat erosion as that AOL increases with barrel age:  
--Prior data: OAL = 2.786" @ 100 rounds
--This data: OAL = 2.892" @ 200 rounds
Which is a throat growth of 0.106" (or 106 thou).

Do I believe the throat grew 100 thou in 100 shots?  Not really, the tool is tricky to use, and a new match-grade barrel usually has a really tight diameter freebore (before the rifling), that can lead to erroneously short readings.  More likely it was always something closer to 2.89".  The real test will be to see how much it grows after the next 100 rounds; which I don't expect to be nearly so dramatic of a reading.  But we shall see!

Oh, and to end on a positive note, the BCG cotter pin got much easier to reinstall, and I was able to pit it back in with bare hands this time, so that's good.

Total round count: 200

Continued log update (no rounds fired): 2/24/2019  Some cleaning and examination notes:

Using one of those muzzle camera's, let's take a walk along the barrel.  Coming in from the muzzle on the Right:



That crown is sharp and clean; very good looking crown.  As the round count goes up, those sharp edges and points will start to erode, but 200 rounds in (which in theory is 10% BBL life of a 6.5 CM), that looks quite good.

Gas port looks about right too, looks good, though they didn't cut it with 100% just inside a groove.  Nor do most people, most of my match barrels are the same way (i.e. they are are through both a land and a groove).  In theory, if the port hole is cut only inside a grove, and not touching a land, it's a smoother encounter for the bullet going by; but no big deal.

By the way, one of those pictures is inverted - curious to see who notices which one it is.

Still at 200 rounds total round count.

Continued log update (no rounds fired): 2/24/2019  Breach side
Here's what it looks like from the breach end, coming in from the right:



Again, looks pretty good really.  Rifling looks sharp and clear.  The freebore is a lot longer than a .223.  By a lot.  But that's an aspect of 6.5 CM, the bullets stick way out there.  The most critical item is where the lands start, being uniform.  Inevitable heat damage will eventually show up with cracking like dried mud in the desert (on the left side of that second picture), and none of that is apparent yet.

Still at 200 rounds total round count.

Continued log update (no rounds fired): 3/5/2019  
Interestingly, the roll pin for the AR10 charging handle (that holds the latch part on) came loose and slid partially out, and then bound up when the thing was released under spring tension to close the bolt.  Which prevented the latch from reliably cycling back closed.  I can make it work, but for the heck of it, I contacted PSA, who same-day replied that a replacement charging handle will be sent out shortly.   So... that's pretty good customer service, I'm happy enough with that!

Still at 200 rounds total round count.

If you get to keep the other one, put some loctite on the pin to hold it in place

3/15/2019 Log update:  (no rounds fired, but 2 more log updates with rounds fired to follow)
Been distracted by a 6.5 Grendel project, but had chance to roll back into the Creedmoor as well this weekend.


1)  PSA delivered! with excellent customer service, and provided me a free replacement charging handle for my PA10, to replace the one that got damaged by the roll pin coming loose.  They also sent some additional replacement items for a different project; and so just another accolade for Josiah @palmettostatearmory.  which is good, because I'm going to be reaching out to him again on something related to this 6.5 Creedmoor project (foreshadowing of future updates coming).

2) Also, my @PrimaryArms 6.5 Creedmoor 3-18X 50mm scope came!  Took those guys forever, they were a solid month behind projection on this.  I went with their Delux mount, but if I had to do it over again I probably wouldn't get Primary Arm's mount, as I found one I like better.  It's OK, still not bad.   Back to the optics - I like it, but haven't decided yet if I love it; will need some time with it.  I picked this glass as it's caliber appropriate, and from prior experience, I consider PSA a good balance of cost-to-quality; especially if you're looking for something better than basic, but don't want to go all premium pricing.  In general, I consider PSA glass something where you get a little more than you paid for.  That, and $500 glass ($~600 with mount, tax, etc) felt about appropriate for an $800 gun.  

As to features and why pair them, for me at least, I liked the 50 mm object, 3-18 is a nice range that goes all the way down to CQB power even, and it has a 6.5 CM ballistic Christmas tree; making this a good scope for PRS style shooting - is my thought.  It's a First Focal Plane retical which... I'm still undecided about.  All the PRS Cool-Kids like it and the retical zooms with the image so the dot distances are constant, which is nice.  But when you zoom this thing down to just 3X, the retical all but disappears.  It has adjustable parallax, which is good, and goes all the way down to just 10 yards, which is actually useful for testing stuff out indoors.  It's mounting location worked out perfect, very comfortable (IMHO, most people mount their scopes much too far back).  



Primary Arm's scope:


So: aftermarket additions to the rifle:
-Carbon fiber bipod (for weight reduction)
-Cheap nylon sling (QD mount for the magpul stock on back, and the older post-style QD mount in front to go onto the BiPod, or onto the bipod's mounting point, when the bipod is not on the gun
-Gamma 6.5 mm Muzzle break
-Primary Arms 3-18 6.5 Creedmoor optics and mount.

Total round count: 200

3/16/2019 Log update:  53 rounds fired, with numerous jams and related failures.

Musical selection:
I only came for the Cake

Set up on a bench with the bipod, and fired 5-shot strings into targets, to zero the new scope and do some accuracy testing.

Federal NonTypical Hunting 140 gr ammo:  Jammed and grouped a disappointing 1.8 MOA; though perhaps the jamming was a contributor.  The gun fired and extracted successfully, and tried stripping in the next round (meaning the bolt made it all the way back), yet the casing did not eject, but stayed in the action and jammed.



Irksome.  This happened numerous times today; and every time it did, it wrecks the brass, by crushing the case-mouth in a destructive way; so can't reload that brass.

Tested a spectrum of ammo ranging for heavy 147 gr loads, to mild charged 140 gr loads; and did numerous adjustments to the gas systems, but the jamming was persistent; and almost always in the manner described above (extracted but not ejected casing).

Accuracy was actually pretty good, depending on the ammo.  With numerous groups at or below 1 MOA.  It particularly liked the a hot-loaded 147 gr ammo I have loaded for a longer RPR action.

Also tested some reloads with S&B primer ammo and identical load with CCI primers.  As expected, the S&B primers sometimes pierced, but the CCI primers did not.  S&B is just too soft for proper full-pressure 6.5 Creedmoor.  My RPR pierces them too, so this isn't a PSA defect.

I never did get a satisfying gas setting that ran reliably for all ammo, and I'm not sure I ever got a gas-setting that runs right for any one ammo!  But, progress on the next day....

Total round count: 253

3/17/2019 Log update:  15 rounds fired, with numerous jams and related failures.

Musical selection:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STS2L50ggIc

Disappointed with the reliability yesterday, needed to return and try again.  Also, wanted to adjust the scope dials to line out my zero readings.  That part (the scope dial resetting) was remarkably easy to do, easier than many other scope systems.  I will say, the Primary Arms Parallax adjustment knob is just... weird, the tension is random.  Seems to work correctly though.

Set up on the bench with the bipod, and fired 5-shot strings into targets.



Again, jams were prevalent, and adjusting the gas system did not seem to help.  I was starting to wonder if I'm trying to fix a flat tire here by adjusting the tension on my spark plugs.


Mild ammo would cycle back to 4:00 ejection at 10' away - and some rounds would jam by failing to eject.  Stronger ammo would cycle the brass that did work, up at 2:30.  And would sometimes jam by failing to eject in the same manner.  Again, tried doing gas system adjustments, which might have worked, might not.  But really this whole thing seemed odd.  With ejection patterns like that, I would assume gas-problems would mean I'm undergassed with some ammo; landing at (4:00), and overgassed with other (landing at 2:00)?  And yet both are still jamming in the exact same way?  This didn't make sense.  It would even fail on the very last round of the mag; though at least with those it wasn't destroying my expensive brass.



Finally, I asked some of the other guys at the range for help diagnosing this.  While we were looking at the bolt, and one guy commented that the extractor is awfully weak.  Sure as heck, while it had some spring tension, I could easily move it in and out with just my thumb.  We compared to a standard AR 5.56 bolt, and that 5.56 extractor was way stiffer - you can only barely move it at all.

So, my best guess on what is going on is the extractor spring is either weak, or maybe missing an O-ring or such inside.  So its tension is wrong, it doesn't seem likely it's supposed to be this weak.   This makes some sense perhaps, as the ejectors in this bolt are crazy strong, yet the round isn't reliably ejecting.  The ejection mechanics rely on one the ejectors cantilevering against that extractor, to actually eject the casing out the side of the gun.  If the extractor is weak and moving around, maybe it isn't working so reliably as that cantilever.  SO! I intend to contact @palmettostatearmory, and ask them if they can just send me a replacement extractor and associated spring set.  Maybe mine broke, maybe I messed it up, maybe they forgot to include something.  But this is my best hunch right now at least, so wish me luck!

On a side-note, I'm kind of impressed with the 2-stage trigger they include with this gun.  It's pretty nice.

Total round count: 268

OP, I had the EXACT same malfunctions with my PSA 6.5 several months ago.  Like you, I suspected a faulty extractor and requested PSA send me one.  They said they didn't have just an individual extractor and decided to swap the entire bcg out, which we did. While waiting for the new bcg I installed a Seekins adjustable gas block as the oem was very finicky.  No more problems! I'm about 99% sure the extractor was the culprit but will be curious as to your findings.

Thanks Gents, yea PSA sent me a shipping label, to return for the jamming.  I have a hunch it's just a 10 cent spring, but they want the whole gun back.  A PITA I was hoping to avoid.

I haven't shipped it yet, as a coworker just bought the exact same gun, because of my overall good experience. So I'm going to pull apart his BCG first and see, before I ship mine back.  If I can just spend $20 out of pocket and fix it myself I will. Because shipping guns back and forth is a hassle and PITA.

Easter 2019 update.  Rifle is now on its way back to PSA, with hope they can correct the ejection issue.  I still think the issue is related to the extract and ejector relative spring tensions are out of balance.  The twin ejector tension is quite high, and forcefully want to push out the casing, while the extractor tension is quite low, easily moved with you fingers, much weaker than an AR.  I think when  it's still locked in the chamber, the extractor has enough tension to work.  But as soon as the bolt starts moving back much, the electors are pushing the round hard. Maybe the case is coming out when the neck hits the lugs (when the vampire bite is put on the neck, which has to have a lot of force). Or maybe the extractor can't keep up as a cantilever when the ejectors are trying so hard to push the other side of the casing out.

All I know is the gun now jams... a lot.

Looking forward to your review of the scope. I don’t see guys shooting PRS using this, or any BDC based scope, but it’s probably fine for normal range use or hitting full size ipsc targets.

If I had to do it over again, I can't say that I would.  I have very few rounds through it, so it's quite early to say - and I might change my mind and assessment.  But on first few usages, the FFP makes the reticle go nearly invisible down at the low end, if you're on open terrain on anything not super bright.   A CQB over-sized style surrounding reference retical would have really gone a long way to make this optic useful in the lower power range.

Just listening to some tunes; chill'n out.

[youtube]HYbggm3NNS4?t=169[/youtube]

Patiently waiting to hear back from PSA on my rifle they've had for about a week now.  


In the meantime, already bookmarked the DPMS Gen II extractor; which probably will fix it - but will cost me $50.  Friend who bought his PSA 6.5CM and who after 50 flawless rounds, now almost every shot is experiencing the exact same failure to eject that mine is - went ahead and just ordered the DPMS Gen II extractor; and didn't even bother trying to send his gun back.  The PITA of sending the gun back and then waiting to sign for its return, was worth $50 to just skip to him.   We'll see - who knows: maybe PSA will redo their extractor spring design on mine or something - I want to BELIEVE!  

Mechanically, I suspect they have a weak spring in the extractor that fatigues very quickly; but I'm just guessing.

5/15/2018 Update: Got my rifle back today.  (no shots fired yet)

Took it apart and saw they added a second round O-ring around the extractor's spring; and that looks like about it.  Looks like they test fired it some.   While putting away the cardboard box, heard a rattle.  Went back into it, and found this screw rolling around loose in the box; which apparently fell out from the handguard.

Kind of sloppy, but whatever, I put it back into the handguard and tightened it up with an allen wrench.  The same screw on the other side was a little loose too, so tightened that up as well.



hope to go test fire the rifle some myself, and see how it's running.

I have a PSA built 6.5 upper and a Home built PSA barrel/bcg 6.5 combo I built into an Aero upper/lower combo.  Both suffered numerous ejection issues from new.  S+B hunting ammo would make it happen most frequently.

I sent back both BCG's and after UPS lost the return for nearly a month they arrived.  SAME issue on my Aero combo/PSA barrel setup.  Stumbled up MrGunsandgear youtube video re: the PSA 6.5 Creed and he had to add a superlative arms adj gas block.   I bit the bullet and ordered and it fixed my issue on my Aero built upper.  I haven't shot the PSA upper again yet since I got the BCG's back yet.   I have probably 200+ rounds on the rifle since I put the new gas block on and it's been very good.   I only shoot a few different loads though so I cannot say it wouldn't need adjustment if I changed ammo pressures too much.

I'm happy with the barrels/combos but I do feel they are WAY overgassed.  PSA should probably drill a much smaller hole in the barrel for the gas port IMO.

For the $ I'm happy though, but it was a frustrating experience to get figured out.

PS I have that same scope you have, but I have it mounted on a .224 Valkarie right now.  I like it, but I agree at 3x it does seem too small of a reticle.  But for what I need, it works well ;)

5/19/2019 Log update:  85 rounds fired in PSA returned gun.  No failures of any kind.  Satisfied and happy with the rig.  See next update on accuracy results; mostly satisfied there as well... mostly.

Some tunes and healthy happy people enjoying music for ya; while reading up
 

Will follow-up with some accuracy and handling performance updates, but the primary purpose of this day and posting, was function testing.  A spectrum of ammunition ranging from Federal 140 gr factory loads (quite warm), down to 90 gr loads, and to some load development testing of 123 gr loads; with a spectrum of power ranges.  Gun cycled, fired, extracted, ejected, and cycled at 100% the whole time; no gas adjustments or anything else was done.

Heh, I did have one mag where only 4 rounds fired and the gun lock back on me.  So I was sitting there going AHA!!!, when it locked back on round 4.   And then I looked into the gun and saw it was empty, and so was the magazine.  Aaannd then looked over at the ammo box and saw round #5 was still just sitting over there waiting in the box.... to which I quietly single loaded it and fired it; and it worked just fine.  

I'll be honest, I was initially underwhelmed by PSA's "fix", since all they did was put a second O-ring around the spring; that's it.  To which I was like, that ain't going to work.  But after pounding 85 reliable rounds through the gun... I guess it's working.  So... OK then!  

Count note: PSA fired some test rounds while working on the gun, so I'm figuring 20-25 or so, and adding that to the final count tally below.
Total round count: 375

5/19/2019 update (Continued)
Continuing with the above.  Tested Federal Fusion 140's, S&B 140 gr FMJ's, some 90 gr reloads, and some 123 gr reloads.

Federal Fusion 140 gr:
1) First group: 1 MOA (0.3 MR), 2650 +/- 5 FPS (Good group, and amazing Standard Dev)
2) Second 5 shot group: 1.6 MOA, 2663 +/- 10 fps.
Not bad; not sure what to make of the second group that opened up like that.  But the standard deviation for factory ammo is really good.

S&B 140 FMJ:
1) 0.7 MOA (0.3 MR), 2649 +/- 10 fps
2) 1.0 MOA (0.4 MR), 2680 fps
3) 0.8 MOA (0.4 MR), 2671 +/- 8 FPS
This is remarkably good.  S&B 140's can be had for $0.60/shot right now - it's the cheapest brass ammo you can get, and this PSA gun apparently loves it.  Shooting sub MOA; with a remarkably good standard Dev.  Interestingly, initial tests and comments from others on S&B's 140 gr FMJ offering were that it was weak, and that the brass was very sticky in the gun.  In my test lot, I did not see that, the gun cycled and ejected just fine with teh S&B; and the velocity is on par with the warm Federal hunting ammo above.

123 gr Nosler Custom Comp, with 4064 and also some tests with 4166:
Bah, waste of time.  These bullets suck, they aren't even .264 diameter, they are .262 diameter.  In general it grouped 2 MOA, with some strings a little lower down to 1.5 MOA; but I can't say that's really repeatable.  My experiences with Nosler quality continues.  Some boxes are good; some boxes are this.

Also, the S&B large rifle reloading primers continue to disappoint; and pierced as charge went up.  Winchester primers in the same loads worked well.  I guess if I had to load these for blaster gong-bangers; I'll run brass WITHOUT Mandrel sizing the inside of the neck, to keep the necks a little tighter for these junky Nosler bullets, and run Win primers, and 37.9 gr of IMR 4166; for about 2822 +/- 10 FPS.

90 gr TNT, these can run down close to 1 MOA.  at 3040 FPS.

In any event; it's good to see the rifle shoots solid reliable now; and is capable of 1 MOA performance - with the right ammo.
Total round count: 375 (still)

5/20/2019 update  - No rounds fired, just cleaned the rifle today.  Finger tested the extractor, which still feels stiff (didn't take it off for further inspection).

A couple points of note.

1) The rifle was very easy to clean and despite close to 100 rounds since last cleaning; was quite clean.  I suspect that's what 60,000 psi and a rifle length gas system will do for you; powder and particularly fast powder, is going to burn fully and clean at that kind of pressure and burn time; at least based on what I've been able to gather on gun-powder science.  And most of these rounds fired were lighter end bullets and so with relatively faster powders, which are going to burn cleaner.  Or so I think, in any event the gun was quite clean.

2) Pierced primers tend to blow the piercings into the bolt, trapping them inside by the firing pin.  Here you can see the piercings after I took apart the BCG.  This is not a PSA failing, these are weak primers prone to piercing at Creedmoor pressures; (and I still haven't gotten rid of all that affected ammo yet).  These S&B reloading primers do it in any 6.5 CM, not just this one; and here's what it looks like.

Public service message: clean your rifle if you get a pierced primer!  Otherwise, this detritus could build up in your firing pin channel, and could cause odd behavior with your firing pin.  It hasn't caused any problems of any kind for me, and this has been done several times, but all the same; with anyone's AR-10: CLEAN YOUR RIFLE IF YOU EXPERIENCE PIERCED PRIMERS, is my safety tip of the day.  As to pierced primers, one way you can tell is that things got more smokey than normal, with smoke is even coming out of the receiver.  Also, the black dimples are another clue, though that isn't always 100% indicative of a primer piercing.



Total round count: 375 (still)

Those little blanks will play havoc with a gun.

Just ordered that same upper and lower yesterday. Very good information. Thanks

5/27/2019 update.

Tunes while reading:  Numa Numa baby!  

[no updates on my specific rifle.  But of a note, fixed a friends identical PSA PA65 that would jam every shot due to failure to eject (note that mine now appears to have been fixed by PSA as described above).  In his case, he had the standard extractor with just 1 o-ring on it (not two), and didn't feel like sending it back.  So he bought the DPMS improved extractor, which fit right into the bolt with an easy switch.  No rounds fired in that, so can't confirm if this actually fixed it - but it does fit in the PSA bolt well, is the point, and I'll likely buy one as a spare for myself. .]

6/09/2019 update  - 72 rounds fired - 2 failures (neither the guns fault).

Musical selection: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkPMcwqS-z0

The day started well; and then went south with this rifle.  Firing in a gong station going from 200 to 700 yards.  Shooting rather hot loads (too hot really) of 42.3 gr Re 16. 143 gr ELD-M hunting rounds, at well over 2700 FPS, which is probably too hot for 20" BBL.  Prior loads were at 42.6 gr, so I was thinking 42.3 gr would be better, but really; that's still a bit hot.  Anyway, the Winchester LR primers took it, but they extruded back around the firing pin a good bit.  So I'll back that down to 42.0 gr going forward.  Worse, I was using older brass, not all of which had tight primers with the reload.  We'll see why that matters below.

The gun fed and cycled 100%; except when the ammo failed in a manner that can't be blamed on this PSA rifle.

200 yards:  Great results.  Dialed the in the scope and adjusted .1 mRAD's based on spotters reporting, but this was good.
300 yards: Excellent results - impacts reported by spotter as being very close on the gong.  
400 yards: Excellent results - impacts reported as being very close.
500 yards: dialed in the ballistic calculator's projection, lined up the sights, and "Click".  Turns out the bolt wasn't closed.  Live casing in the chamber, bolt is NOT attaching to it.  Pulled the bolt, and extractor was fine (a broke extractor can do this).  So.... What's going on?  Found a cleaning rod - an old steel sectional .30 cal in the back of an M1Garand in the car.  It turns out this was an exceptionally bad idea I think now, but anyway, in the field; have to fix this, so that's what got used.  I pushed the live round out with it (while never letting any human body parts being directly downrange of the muzzle), but that cleaning rod was very tight in that bore, requiring some light taps on its way in.  Maybe too tight?  Obviously in retrospect tapping a cleaning rod to get it to finish going half-way down the bore is an exceptionally bad idea; but in field - fast decisions get made.

After further inspection, found a blow primer in the barrels locking lugs, which is why the bolt wouldn't rotate and close.  Removed that, and the gun loaded up just fine.

Next shot was way WAY off.  And for the rest of the outing, accuracy seemed much diminished, and zero's just seemed off.  Was it the Primary Arms 6.5 Creedmoor scope (which appears to be having issues)?  Was it damage from the .30 cal cleaning rod?  I don't know.  Rounds that connected were visibly more spread out over the gong, that I thought they were earlier.  Eventually, We just pulled the gun, and moved on to the M1D sniper rifle (which was fun as Hell actually); and stuck with the RPR.

During this outing, had yet another blown primer that locked up the same way. I've bore-scoped the barrel, which actually appears to be in remarkably great shape after ~500 rounds.  The gas port looks almost new still, which really shocked me.  I think I might just pound 100 round of cost-effective reloads through it, clean it real good, and see how it groups after that.  There's no obvious damage to the lands or crown or throat that I can see from the cleaning rod via the bore-scope.  So, maybe that wasn't an issue; who knows.

Assessment: Neither of those jams were the guns fault in any way.  The ammo was hot, and the brass primer pockets too loose.  The usage of a .30 cal cleaning rod to clear what I thought was a stuck casing (which wasn't), may have been a bad idea.  Don't do that.

Path forward:  I'm not really sure.  I may start with Primary Arms and ask to return for repair their 6.5 CM 3-18 scope, because right now I'm not very satisfied with it (for one, the Parrallax adjustment knob appears to be broken, with really weird torque behavior when I try to use it; and the adjustments don't see to track quite right).

Mechanically, I'm still pleased with this rifle, and found it very pleasurable to shoot, and very reliable (you can't blame a gun for jamming on a blown primer in the works).  But I'm unsure how accurate it really is right now; more testing needed.

Meanwhile, I spent the rest of the day with my Ruger Precision rifle, and managed to take that gun out to well over 1000 yards.  Was hoping to do the same with the PSA PA-10; but it's likely going to be a couple month or so delay before I get chance to do that.

Total round count: 447

Tag

So the parallax changes feel or seems to have a variable ratio through it's travel? Or is it not lining up with the respective yard number? - I thought it was concluded those were a scale and not actually very accurate.

Great thread...thanks!

As in 10 ft-lb of torque to spin the dial from 10 yards to 50 yards, then 4 inch-lb to spin thr dial from 50 to 200 yards, then 2 fl-lb of torque to go from 200 to 400.  Some hyperbole, but basically that.  I lack confidence it's supposed to work that way.

As to adjustments, the Burris on my RPR was spot on in agreement with the ballistic calculator,  that I was feeding the LabRadar actual velocity data too, when Inwalked it out to 700 yards.  Yet on the Primary, using that rifles velocity data, the clicks were coming up short, suggesting the arent quite as precise 0.1mil as advertised

You talkin' quarter minute or third minute skinny mils?

6/15/2019 update  - 62 rounds fired - no failures of any kind.
Musical selection: Lindsay Buckingman - Holiday Road

Prior to shooting, saw that the lock-screw gas adjustment had worked loose and walked itself out quite a bit.  The gas-screw itself hadn't moved at all, which is interesting.  Tightened it back up, and went to the range.  Rifle ran well with a broad spectrum of ammo and power.  Accuracy testing at 200 yards, with satisfactory results.  Looks to be doing about as good as always.


S&B 140 FMJ: nominally this ran about 1 MOA.  One 5 shot string ran 1/2 MOA, which was impressive; but not readily repeated.  But sure, here's the obligatory cherry-picked accuracy target:


Federal Non-Typical 140 gr:   Four 5-shot strings fired, and all four came back at about 1.6 MOA grouping.  Meh, not that great.  That's fine for 200-300 yard hunting applications I guess.

90 gr TNT loads with 44.4 gr MP530 powder:  A fun budget load, with 15 cent bullets and cheap surplus powder.  These clock well over 3000 FPS at relatively tame pressures for the Creedmoor; and shot good; nominally 1 MOA - with best five-shot string of 0.8 MOA.  There's a Grendel shooter who uses these bullets for Hogs, with devastating results.

143 gr ELD with hot charge of 42.3 gr RE16:  The intent of this load is to be a heavy 1000 yard load.  I'm not really satisfied with it; grouping 2 MOA today.  Going to try easing it back to 42.0 gr.

Overall, the rifle continues to shoot well, at 100% reliability, and serviceable accuracy; though it seems to have ammo favorites for accuracy.

Here's the gas-port after 500 rounds.  Looks good, with very little erosion.  I was expecting more:


Here's the crown.  Sharp and solid looking land there.


I thought this was odd.  This was a couple inches in from the muzzle.  See how there's a line around the entire diameter of inside of the barrel.  This isn't from a cleaning rod; it goes across both lands and grooves.  And such coloration items appear several times in the barrel, to various degrees.  I'm not sure what it is, or what could cause that; it's not from a cleaning rod (not in both lands and grooves at the same time like that); and the gun never had a squib; (and at 60,000 PSI, you'd sure know it!)


Here's more:


I think it's an artifact of how the barrel is cut, or the metallurgy, but can't really say.  Aside from being an interesting visual anomaly, I'm not aware of it being any sort of problem.  I'll clean it anew, and check again.

Total round count: 509

It's reamer marks for the drilling/reaming process prior to having a button pulled through it.

Would that be from the button stopping and starting; kind of a chatter?

Thanks for the updates.

Thought I'd mention that I have the same scope and rifle (upper has full picatinny rail though), and my scope is positioned almost a couples inches rearward of yours it looks like. So the back end of my scope is at the back end of the charging handle.  When on 18X, I'm just starting to see scope shadow unless I position my head ever so slightly forward. I don't think  your scope position would work for me given we both keep the stock about the same rearward position. My scope mounting gives me an eye relief of about 3.75" give or take.

You seem pretty methodical, so perhaps there's a reason behind your mounting position.