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Posted: 11/14/2020 8:58:14 PM EDT
[#1]
The cylindrical electric pumps are not rebuildable. They are crimped together
at the ends. If you get them freed up run them but check your fuel pressure especially at WOT when fuel demand is the greatest. Wouldn't hurt to get new ones to have on hand if the originals quit. I would also recommend having the injectors cleaned since they have been sitting. |
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Posted: 11/17/2020 3:37:49 PM EDT
[#2]
Bought new pumps. Rebuilt TB. It was so clean inside, I shouldn't have messed with it.
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Posted: 11/17/2020 3:52:04 PM EDT
[#3]
Did you have the injector "pods" cleaned? If not, look at the spray pattern when you
get the engine running. Make sure it has a conical shape to it and it is even all the way around. A timing light is helpful to look at the spray pattern as it will freeze frame the pattern making it easier to see. |
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Posted: 11/17/2020 8:01:17 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: Did you have the injector "pods" cleaned? If not, look at the spray pattern when you get the engine running. Make sure it has a conical shape to it and it is even all the way around. A timing light is helpful to look at the spray pattern as it will freeze frame the pattern making it easier to see. Great idea. Never thought about using it for that. We are going to have to use a light to fine tune time as we pulled and reinserted distributor to prime block with oil. |
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Posted: 11/17/2020 8:40:07 PM EDT
[#5]
May want to check and see if there's a "trick" to set timing. Most EFI and electronic
ignitions have to be in "service mode" to set base timing. Service mode takes any advance built into the ignition module/ECM out of the picture so you can set base timing properly. Some only require grounding out a certain wire to enter service mode. Others require a scan tool. |
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Posted: 11/20/2020 2:29:01 PM EDT
[#6]
Thanks. I’ll red up on timing.
Right now Can’t figure out an issue. I’m jumping pin 5/6/7 on pig tail to run motor. I have to pour gas through throttle body. The fuel pumps don’t come on. The fuel pump and EFI relays are 100% proven good. If I jump 12 volts to relay plugs, the fuel pumps work. The neutral safety wires are connected together. I’ve poured over the wiring diagram and can’t see any cause for this. Since the motor runs, I’ll probably drop in next week and trouble shoot with the harness connected. I’m sure it’ll be something simple... it’s a continuing opportunity to learn! |
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Posted: 11/20/2020 7:22:54 PM EDT
[#7]
Hard to diagnose without a schematic or cutting the harness open (no schematic).
The neutral "safety" wires (in the shift/throttle control box) only prevent engine from cranking when it's in gear. Some safety switches (kill switches if equipped) also power the fuel pumps (Volvo EFI's and some Mercs). Electric fuel pumps are normally wired through an oil pressure switch that supplies power to the pumps only when oil pressure is present (engine running) and power for the pumps during cranking is supplied through the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid. I would get this sorted before installing the engine as it will be 10X harder to troubleshoot in the boat where space is limited. |
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Posted: 11/26/2020 11:21:00 PM EDT
[#8]
Would there be any reason the ECM wouldn't work out of the boat?
The only mystery I can find is that there are 10amp fuses on the schematic that aren't anywhere on the motor. My FIL, who use to work on Mercruisers, back in the day, said those fuses are in the boat and it may make a difference having the harnesses connected. Other than that I'm going to call my local shop and see if they can test the ECM.  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/27/2020 3:07:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: KB7DX]
[#9]
There is no reason I know of that would prevent the engine from running
"stand alone", not in the boat. Mercruisers are a self contained engine package that only requires 12 volts (battery power to the starter stud & ground) , gas, cooling water and a control box/ignition switch (or hotwired) to run. I have a short pigtail with an ignition switch on it I can plug into the engine harness plug completely eliminating the boat control harness for testing. The fuses in that schematic pic look like they should be inside a plastic connector looking "box" like this with wires coming out the bottom.  |
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Posted: 11/28/2020 3:49:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HELOBRAVO]
[#10]
There are no fuses and there's no place anything is missing.
The only connector that looks anything like the one in your pic is on top of the sheet metal enclosure for the main breaker and three relays. It should be the OBD port. I am using a pin 5/6/7 as a jumper to run/turn over motor. 5/6 should power the ECM. I'm stubborn and this kept me occupied for quite a few hours. I'll figure it out this week, but I am getting tired of fooling with it.  |
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Posted: 11/28/2020 5:26:21 PM EDT
[#11]
Mercruisers are always fused on the engine for engine circuits. Marine Power may be different but I've
never seen any Mercruiser or Volvo Penta engine package that wouldn't run "stand alone" and be fused on the engine for the engine systems like ECM, injectors, fuel pumps, ignition etc.. The fuses in that schematic you posted look exactly the way the Mercruiser schematic depicts them. Are you sure that's a diag connector you are looking at? 
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Posted: 11/29/2020 1:01:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HELOBRAVO]
[#12]
 Attached FileThere were no fuses in it and it never crossed my mind that anyone would pull the fuses. @kb7dx |
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Posted: 11/29/2020 9:00:13 PM EDT
[#13]
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Posted: 12/10/2020 12:49:58 PM EDT
[#14]
Replacing all hoses. I'd like to use a raw water strainer.
I've got a closed cooling system now with a crank mounted water pump. Can I use bulk hose for this? The Mercruiser hose isn't just a rubber hose. There is a Bravo water hose assembly that is a retro fit for these outdrives, I don't know what issue it corrects. Any tips or suggestions? @kb7dx |
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Posted: 12/14/2020 5:35:26 PM EDT
[#15]
You will need to use a hardwall hose which has a wire molded inside to prevent the hose from collapsing under the suction of the pump. You may want to go ahead and bypass the hose that comes from the transom and use a through hull scoop type for the water intake. The Bravos have issues with the hose becoming restricted where it passes through the transom assembly from corrosion squeezing the hose shut. Look up "Bravoitis" on Google.
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Posted: 12/16/2020 7:11:33 AM EDT
[#16]
Here is a link to Bravoitis
The through hull I was referring to looks like this  Of course the slotted side points toward the bow. They come in different sizes according to what size hose is required and a ball valve (sea cock) is installed on the scoop and a brass nipple into the other end to put the hose on. If you decide to install the scoop (I recommend highly) use two hose clamps to secure the hose to the nipple and run a ground wire to thee scoop itself for corrosion protection. You will also need the "block-off" kit for the hose inlet in the transom assembly. Since the original hose will be blocked off, cut a section out of the original hose between the bellhousing and the transom assembly. This will allow water to flow through the drive like normal so it can cool the drive. This is an easy mod when the engine is already out. Just plan where you can position the scoop and associated valve and hosing. |
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Posted: 3/2/2021 12:55:43 AM EDT
[#17]
Everything done on install except hose clamps.
I had to make a new bracket for the heat exchanger, as it was about 2" too high to close the engine cover. It was a pain in the ass. Big time. It barely clears the power steering belt. I kept the stock raw water intake as it is clean and I didn't need more crap to fool with. I did add an in line strainer as seen in the pic. Hopefully I will have time to start and re-time it later this Wednesday or Thursday.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/2/2021 2:42:06 PM EDT
[#18]
That's a pretty tight fit with the heat exchanger.
 Can you get to the impeller without a third elbow or hiring Oompa-Loompas? 
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Posted: 3/3/2021 10:05:10 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: That's a pretty tight fit with the heat exchanger. Can you get to the impeller without a third elbow or hiring Oompa-Loompas? I can rotate to heat exchanged a bit if needed. It's not fixed in place in the pic. I'm gonna run in the driveway for quit a while. I now fully appreciate the need for preventive maintenance. It'll be no problem removing the exchanger once a year to change the impeller. I'll need to clean the exchanger. or at least inspect it when I do that. I assume the ends pry off....it's as clean as new now so I haven't taken it apart. Checking the oil will be a bitch. I do need to try to relocate the dipstick, but that's low on my list right now. I do worry about the length of the raw water intake path as far as how long it'll take to get some lubrication to the impeller. I plan on back filling it as much as possible initially, i guess. Thanks for your help during this process. It's been fun and a learning experience although I'm not out of the woods yet. |
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Posted: 3/11/2021 10:01:04 AM EDT
[#20]
Test run yesterday. No fires, leaks, tows or sinking.
I am getting conflicting temp readings. Factory Marine Power manual says it's a a 160 degree motor. The factory gauge gets up to 210-220 and has very little fluctuation. The temp gauge I placed by the thermostat housing never gets over 140. You can hold your hands on all the manifolds and hoses there's no sign of overheating or asymmetrical temperature variations. I am concerned about the relocation of the heat exchanger being as it is a bit lower than designed. We did insure water is at both temp sending units. I will check more in depth today and make sure air can't be trapped in a hose. Although the engine ran fine, it falls on it's face a 2200 RPM. Like its rev limited. It will not go over 2200. Easing it to that point or kicking it in the guts, it's the same, so I figure it may be computer related. I also don't like it idling at 900 RPM. All in all any test you can return from under your own power is a success in my book! |
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Posted: 3/11/2021 9:39:43 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HELOBRAVO: Test run yesterday. No fires, leaks, tows or sinking. That's a plus! I am getting conflicting temp readings. Factory Marine Power manual says it's a a 160 degree motor. The factory gauge gets up to 210-220 and has very little fluctuation. Marine Power sending unit may be different from Merc. Swap sending units if you haven't. The temp gauge I placed by the thermostat housing never gets over 140. Remove T-stat and check to see what temp it is. Usually stamped on the bottom of the copper/brass cylinder. You can hold your hands on all the manifolds and hoses there's no sign of overheating or asymmetrical temperature variations. That's good! I am concerned about the relocation of the heat exchanger being as it is a bit lower than designed. We did insure water is at both temp sending units. I will check more in depth today and make sure air can't be trapped in a hose. Although the engine ran fine, it falls on it's face a 2200 RPM. Like its rev limited. It will not go over 2200. You may try to spray some fuel down the throttle body while underway and see if the RPM's pick up. If so, you have a fuel delivery issue. Easing it to that point or kicking it in the guts, it's the same, so I figure it may be computer related. I also don't like it idling at 900 RPM. Somethings not right there. Should be about 650 in gear. All in all any test you can return from under your own power is a success in my book! My replies in blue above.  |
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Posted: 3/12/2021 10:38:43 AM EDT
[Last Edit: HELOBRAVO]
[#22]
SO, I emailed to the guy at Marine Power.
The RPMS are limited because it's in what I call limp mode...there's a code being thrown. This is the old MEFI4 system that you'd count the check engine light blinks on a car. I can use my continuity beep on my multimeter. Probably going to do that today. The motor is for a jet set up(impeller/jet ski type). Hopefully I can do something about the idle speed. I have to. Reflash hopefully. The manual states that that's one difference in the regular and jet engines. I'll check sending units. More concerned about trapped air although I do need to get it right. Thanks for input. ETA: The sending unit on my old manifold is a single wire....  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/13/2021 8:47:52 PM EDT
[#23]
It seems to have been a faulty sending unit. Revs up in driveway.
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Posted: 3/13/2021 9:32:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Revs up in the driveway is one thing. Pouring the coals to (parlor coal
 ) it under load is the real test.Marine EFI engines will have two temp "senders" on them. One is for the ECM to take data from and the other is purely an old school analog unit to operate the temp gauge on the dash. Typical old school senders for the gauge on the dash have only one wire. Yes, you must get the idle down. Not good on the outdrive especially if you have a stainless prop. It would be interesting to see what's making it idle high whether it's the ECM programming or something mechanical like throttle plate position. I sent a MEFI 3 over to these guys for repair last week. We'll see how they are as this is the first one I've sent off for repair. ECM's are pretty much bulletproof. |
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Posted: 3/16/2021 2:01:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: HELOBRAVO]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: Revs up in the driveway is one thing. Pouring the coals to (parlor coal ) it under load is the real test.Marine EFI engines will have two temp "senders" on them. One is for the ECM to take data from and the other is purely an old school analog unit to operate the temp gauge on the dash. Typical old school senders for the gauge on the dash have only one wire. Yes, you must get the idle down. Not good on the outdrive especially if you have a stainless prop. It would be interesting to see what's making it idle high whether it's the ECM programming or something mechanical like throttle plate position. I sent a MEFI 3 over to these guys for repair last week. We'll see how they are as this is the first one I've sent off for repair. ECM's are pretty much bulletproof. The guage was the one for the ECM. The old motor had a single wire. I believe my engine does have two, I need to check that. I will probably burn some big coal Wednesday. I may need a reflash or new ECM. My engine is a for a jet drive and it has a higher idle than a pleasure/ski ECM. I plan on running my DIY check engine light to the dash....  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 3/17/2021 7:21:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wookie1562]
[#26]
Hope you don't mind if I hijack your thread OP.....It seems we have some very knowledgeable and experienced folks in here.
I recently bought a boat with a mercruiser 5.7 and volvo aq280 outdrive, has about 700 hours. It's saltwater, raw water cooled. The raw water pickup is through a seacock in the hull that also has a freshwater flushing system. The boat hasn't been used much recently and I am going through stuff. I'd like to pull the exhaust elbows to inspect for corrosion. Before I pull them off, do I need to replace gaskets or any other consumable in there? Assuming they don't need replaced. I also have a water pump that came with a gasket set. Would you guys also use a gasket sealant or something? Or just stick with the gasket only? |
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Posted: 3/18/2021 9:42:11 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wookie1562: Hope you don't mind if I hijack your thread OP.....It seems we have some very knowledgeable and experienced folks in here. I recently bought a boat with a mercruiser 5.7 and volvo aq280 outdrive, has about 700 hours. It's saltwater, raw water cooled. The raw water pickup is through a seacock in the hull that also has a freshwater flushing system. The boat hasn't been used much recently and I am going through stuff. I'd like to pull the exhaust elbows to inspect for corrosion. Before I pull them off, do I need to replace gaskets or any other consumable in there? Assuming they don't need replaced. I also have a water pump that came with a gasket set. Would you guys also use a gasket sealant or something? Or just stick with the gasket only? First off, you have a Mercruiser engine and a Volvo outdrive or are you using Mercruiser as a generic term? If you remove the exhaust elbows be prepared to replace the elbow(s) and manifolds because at 700 hours in salt water I bet they are rotted to the point of needing replaced. If, and that's a big if, you are able to re-use the manifolds/elbows, you will need to replace the elbow gaskets. Make sure you get the correct ones for raw water cooling and not the closed cooling ones. Water pump...which one? In the marine industry we call the pump bolted to the block over the timing cover a circulation pump. The pump that is either belt driven (Mercruiser) or crankshaft driven (Volvo Penta) is a sea pump. Pics of engine would help I.D. it. @HELOBRAVO I found an old Marine Power service manual at work. It's for a MEFI 1 or 2. I don't remember which yours is.  |
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Posted: 3/18/2021 10:14:49 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: First off, you have a Mercruiser engine and a Volvo outdrive or are you using Mercruiser as a generic term? If you remove the exhaust elbows be prepared to replace the elbow(s) and manifolds because at 700 hours in salt water I bet they are rotted to the point of needing replaced. If, and that's a big if, you are able to re-use the manifolds/elbows, you will need to replace the elbow gaskets. Make sure you get the correct ones for raw water cooling and not the closed cooling ones. Water pump...which one? In the marine industry we call the pump bolted to the block over the timing cover a circulation pump. The pump that is either belt driven (Mercruiser) or crankshaft driven (Volvo Penta) is a sea pump. Pics of engine would help I.D. it. @HELOBRAVO I found an old Marine Power service manual at work. It's for a MEFI 1 or 2. I don't remember which yours is. Thanks, but I actually have the correct original manual for my setup. I have an MEFI 4. Hopefully programmed early next week the weather is awesome down here. |
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Posted: 3/19/2021 1:43:02 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: First off, you have a Mercruiser engine and a Volvo outdrive or are you using Mercruiser as a generic term? If you remove the exhaust elbows be prepared to replace the elbow(s) and manifolds because at 700 hours in salt water I bet they are rotted to the point of needing replaced. If, and that's a big if, you are able to re-use the manifolds/elbows, you will need to replace the elbow gaskets. Make sure you get the correct ones for raw water cooling and not the closed cooling ones. Water pump...which one? In the marine industry we call the pump bolted to the block over the timing cover a circulation pump. The pump that is either belt driven (Mercruiser) or crankshaft driven (Volvo Penta) is a sea pump. Pics of engine would help I.D. it. @HELOBRAVO I found an old Marine Power service manual at work. It's for a MEFI 1 or 2. I don't remember which yours is. The outdrive is volvo 2878423B. I believe this is original 1978. Volvo won't provide information on drives older than 1980. I am not sure what engine the boat had originally but it has been equipped like this for 20 years. I am going to replace the elbows and gaskets. They aren't that expensive compared to the peace of mind. I will check out the manifold as well. I actually have some blackstone labs containers so I will sample the oil. I've only put about 4 hours on the boat since purchased but hopefully blackstone can pick up if there is any saltwater in the oil. I replaced the belt driven sea pump, and need to do the circulation pump. The boat has been down for a couple months while I work through projects and maintenance. I converted to electric trim tabs. They require both 12v power and switched 12v ignition. I used my multimeter to check for ignition 12v power and discovered my entire gauge cluster is live any time the battery switch is on. The dashboard was suspect with rot to begin with so I am going to cut out the whole thing and replace it. I would like to find a wiring diagram and redo these gauges while I am in there. Eventually I'd like to have the deck painted, and probably replace the hatch covers with treadplate aluminum or something. The cabin is being totally redone and I'd like to get at least a summer out of the boat before any other major projects. As you can see, there are other major projects on the horizon.   |
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Posted: 3/19/2021 9:16:08 AM EDT
[#30]
If you’re keeping it, put a crank mounted sea water pump on it.
Fuck the Mercruiser pump, what a pain in the ass. Replace every hose on it.....ask me how I know.
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Posted: 3/19/2021 12:59:04 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HELOBRAVO: If you're keeping it, put a crank mounted sea water pump on it. Fuck the Mercruiser pump, what a pain in the ass. Replace every hose on it.....ask me how I know. And yes, that seawater pump was a real pain and I have about twice as much room as you did. |
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Posted: 3/19/2021 10:01:56 PM EDT
[#32]
I can't see the pics but rest assured, if the elbows need replaced, the manifolds will as well. What happens is the
mating surfaces between the elbow and manifold rot away and don't provide much surface area for the gasket to seal to. If you rewire the dash/boat, please follow this wiring color code..  This may also provide you with some guidance trouble shooting what's already there. |
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Posted: 3/19/2021 10:55:48 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: I can't see the pics but rest assured, if the elbows need replaced, the manifolds will as well. What happens is the mating surfaces between the elbow and manifold rot away and don't provide much surface area for the gasket to seal to. If you rewire the dash/boat, please follow this wiring color code.. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/108158/d7eba3f0c5478f72f82818c85995664b-1872365.jpg This may also provide you with some guidance trouble shooting what's already there. The overall electrical system is pretty simple. Just a couple batteries, nav lights, blower, radio, bilge pump, and new electric trim tabs. I removed the radar and a lot of the other rats nest that was installed such as wipers, defunct fuel pumps, leftover wiring from defunct transducer or fathometer, abandoned wiring from removed bait tanks. In preparation to clean and restore the cabin, I am going to remove the engine instrumentation, electrical controls, throttle, and steering this weekend. The instrument panel part no. Is 835965. Can't find much info on it except that it's obsolete. I did notice the back of the tach seems to have printed wiring instructions, but it isn't readable as installed in the boat. And speaking of throttle, I am going to need to adjust the Morse MT-2 shift linkage. The outdrive is in forward when the throttle is in the detent. Just one more thing on the list Once again if this is too much of a thread hijack, please let me know and I'll make a new thread. This little section overall is pretty quiet so I hope nobody minds. |
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Posted: 3/20/2021 2:30:19 AM EDT
[#34]
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Posted: 3/20/2021 9:16:36 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryI'd pull that and clean everything up (bilge and motor). So much easier todo everything with the motor out. Like I said previously, it's only a challenge the first time.
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Posted: 3/20/2021 10:06:12 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryYou have the newer "dry joint" manifolds and elbows so they shouldn't be rotted. That was one good thing Merc did was go to that type of exhaust manifold/elbow. The elbow gaskets are pretty spendy.
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Posted: 3/23/2021 12:18:44 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: You have the newer "dry joint" manifolds and elbows so they shouldn't be rotted. That was one good thing Merc did was go to that type of exhaust manifold/elbow. The elbow gaskets are pretty spendy. I pulled everything from the helm of the boat. The gauge wiring is awful, everything needs gone through. The gauges all seem to mostly work except oil pressure was intermittent (I hope it is the gauge or the sender ). The 12v ign power I mentioned earlier, and the gauge lights don't work. At least, I'm assuming that's what the one switch on the panel is. Also noticed that the tach doesn't go to 0 when the engine is shut off. There is definitely something going on with the switched power.I noticed the morse MT2 control is out of adjustment. Idle is good and RPMs through the throttle travel are good, but when in the detent, it is in forward gear. It will go to neutral when "popped out" but I think I need to adjust the cable throw or perhaps clean and lube the detent tracks for it to be in neutral in the detent. This thing is also pretty ugly. I'm debating to send it out for sandblast and powdercoat, or rechrome. Has anyone done something like that? |
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Posted: 3/23/2021 1:06:00 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wookie1562: How often would you expect to replace those manifolds and elbows? Is it worth checking them out? I pulled everything from the helm of the boat. The gauge wiring is awful, everything needs gone through. The gauges all seem to mostly work except oil pressure was intermittent (I hope it is the gauge or the sender ). The 12v ign power I mentioned earlier, and the gauge lights don't work. At least, I'm assuming that's what the one switch on the panel is. Also noticed that the tach doesn't go to 0 when the engine is shut off. There is definitely something going on with the switched power.I noticed the morse MT2 control is out of adjustment. Idle is good and RPMs through the throttle travel are good, but when in the detent, it is in forward gear. It will go to neutral when "popped out" but I think I need to adjust the cable throw or perhaps clean and lube the detent tracks for it to be in neutral in the detent. This thing is also pretty ugly. I'm debating to send it out for sandblast and powdercoat, or rechrome. Has anyone done something like that? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wookie1562: Originally Posted By KB7DX: You have the newer "dry joint" manifolds and elbows so they shouldn't be rotted. That was one good thing Merc did was go to that type of exhaust manifold/elbow. The elbow gaskets are pretty spendy. I pulled everything from the helm of the boat. The gauge wiring is awful, everything needs gone through. The gauges all seem to mostly work except oil pressure was intermittent (I hope it is the gauge or the sender ). The 12v ign power I mentioned earlier, and the gauge lights don't work. At least, I'm assuming that's what the one switch on the panel is. Also noticed that the tach doesn't go to 0 when the engine is shut off. There is definitely something going on with the switched power.I noticed the morse MT2 control is out of adjustment. Idle is good and RPMs through the throttle travel are good, but when in the detent, it is in forward gear. It will go to neutral when "popped out" but I think I need to adjust the cable throw or perhaps clean and lube the detent tracks for it to be in neutral in the detent. This thing is also pretty ugly. I'm debating to send it out for sandblast and powdercoat, or rechrome. Has anyone done something like that? The "dry joint" manifolds will last alot longer than the older style "wet joint" manifolds. Unless you see signs of leaking, I would leave them alone. The tach should return to zero when the ignition is turned on. Doesn't matter where the tach's needle is when you shut it off. Oil pressure gauge issues are usually the sender on the engine going flakey. Try playing with the cable adjustments a little at a time to see if you can get it to shift properly. You may have a stretched cable or things inside the control box may be worn introducing "slop" in the mechanism. High idle RPM's will also make it hard to get out of gear into neutral. |
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Posted: 3/23/2021 3:33:21 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: The "dry joint" manifolds will last alot longer than the older style "wet joint" manifolds. Unless you see signs of leaking, I would leave them alone. The tach should return to zero when the ignition is turned on. Doesn't matter where the tach's needle is when you shut it off. Oil pressure gauge issues are usually the sender on the engine going flakey. Try playing with the cable adjustments a little at a time to see if you can get it to shift properly. You may have a stretched cable or things inside the control box may be worn introducing "slop" in the mechanism. High idle RPM's will also make it hard to get out of gear into neutral. I think the control is either out of adjustment or worn. It will be some time before I get back to that. Any recommendations before I jump into this?  |
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Posted: 3/23/2021 6:24:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: KB7DX]
[#40]
Manifolds/elbows can leak several ways.
Most commonis the elbow gasket starts seeping (wet joint) but doesn't affect engine performance. This is usually the first sign of problems. If it gets worse it usually starts dumping water into the exhaust passages hydro locking the engine. The above applies to the wet joint type elbows. Sometimes they will crack or get a pin hole internally causing running issues or hydro locking. This applies to both wet and dry joints. This page has some good info on Mercruiser exhaust systems and types. I recommend using the wiring color code I posted above along with good quality, tinned copper connectors crimped with a good crimp tool. I use Klien crimpers ETA - Give yourself plenty of slack in the wiring. Nothing more frustrating than having to replace a gauge where the wiring is stretched tight as a banjo string. 
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Posted: 3/24/2021 2:03:06 AM EDT
[#41]
Thanks again for the excellent info!
The gauges aren't as bad as I thought. It's missing some wiring for the gauge backlights. That'll be easy to fix with a few ring and spade terminals. It took me a few minutes (or hours) drawing diagrams with the multimeter to figure out how the damn backlight switch works. It is illuminated with clear light when off, and turns red when switched on. I tested a few of the gauges but am limited by only having one DC power supply. All the gauges turn on, but without knowing the required input voltages from all of their senders, I can't test all of the gauge functions. The voltmeter worked perfectly. I pulled some abandoned wiring. Learned about the hourmeter and found some other add-ons in the gauge cluster. The hourmeter runs when oil pressure is indicated, that's a nice design. I found a circuit where the compass backlight is illuminated with the gauge light switch. That's pretty clever as well, but might be nice if independently switched. It'd be a bummer to run the boat at night in search of spiny lobsters and find a nasty glare from the compass backlight. Night fishing/trapping also means I'll need to add some forward looking lights . Any recommendations? The boat also had a Furuno 1621 that I will consider reinstalling. It's been recommended locally to help crossing shipping channels in fog. |
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Posted: 3/24/2021 11:18:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: KB7DX]
[#42]
Install a switch in line with one of the wires that powers the compass light so
you can turn off the compass light independently. <-- Not much radar knowledge here.  ETA - To test the fuel gauge, hook it all back up, turn the ignition on to power up the gauge and then go back to the fuel tank sender and short the pink wire (signal wire to gauge) to ground. This should make the gauge go full sweep from Empty to Full. If it does, then the wiring and gauge are ok. If the fuel gauge doesn't work after doing this test, the sender in the tank is bad. You can test the oil pressure gauge this way as well just by shorting the signal wire (light blue) on the sender to ground and watch the gauge go full sweep. |
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Posted: 3/24/2021 11:38:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: wookie1562]
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: Install a switch in line with one of the wires that powers the compass light so you can turn off the compass light independently. <-- Not much radar knowledge here. ETA - To test the fuel gauge, hook it all back up, turn the ignition on to power up the gauge and then go back to the fuel tank sender and short the pink wire (signal wire to gauge) to ground. This should make the gauge go full sweep from Empty to Full. If it does, then the wiring and gauge are ok. If the fuel gauge doesn't work after doing this test, the sender in the tank is bad. You can test the oil pressure gauge this way as well just by shorting the signal wire (light blue) on the sender to ground and watch the gauge go full sweep. ETA- Does this indicate the gauge is failed? This is the oil pressure gauge that had some erratic indications. I'd actually be happy if it did fail because that would explain the intermittent 0 pressure readings. The fuel level indicating system on this boat is a rod with level markings on it |
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Posted: 3/24/2021 5:40:29 PM EDT
[#44]
If the oil pressure gauge is stuck all the way to the right, turn on ignition and tap on the face of the gauge.
It's just stuck. Most all oil pressure gauge malfunctions are due to a bad sending unit. I've only seen a handful of bad oil pressure gauges. Tachometers have a high failure rate as do volt meters, oil pressure and fuel gauges not so much for some reason. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 3/24/2021 5:51:43 PM EDT
[#45]
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/forumdisplay.php?28-Mercruiser-Sterndrive-Forum
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Posted: 3/27/2021 2:07:22 PM EDT
[#46]
Been awhile for me.
Use to have a radar certificate. Just about all the smaller radar units are all the same. Color is way nicer than the old green and black. I liked the enclosed radomes as they are not affected by the wind like the exposed ones. May have to tilt it with how you boat runs in the water. The radars that can hook up to gps are nice. No need to keep looking between the two. Never stand in from of the radar when turning on or off. Learn to tune it and run it. The other guys would auto tune it but I got better signals when I took the time to tune. It can miss things low in the water or things that have poor return so you still have to be careful. |
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Posted: 4/13/2021 8:29:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HELOBRAVO]
[#47]
@kb7dx
So after weeks of waiting for my MEFI4 to be re-flashed, Marine Power said they no longer service these older ECMs. FML. All I need is the idle RPM lowered. Everything marine is expensive, shouldn't there be a tuning set up for GM vehicles that ran this ECM? I'd be happy to send it away for programming and have emails out tonight, but some of the prices are retarded. $500 in one case... Who do you use? Just found THIS. Don't see why it wouldn't work. Gonna pick mu ECM up tomorrow and verify serial numbers and such. |
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Posted: 4/13/2021 9:46:52 PM EDT
[#48]
I don't know if the auto industry used that ECM or not. Even if they did, there wont be one
that will work in a marine application from a tuning standpoint. MEFIBURN is the only company I've ever sent an ECM into for repair and they told me the ECM (MEFI 3) that I sent was shot and couldn't be repaired. I had to buy the MEFI 4 upgrade at $1800.00 to repair this engine for a customer. Earlier in this thread I was wondering if the high idle in your case was done mechanically or if it was in the ECM programming. I would say that if you can identify the ALDL connector and pin-out I would try to reset manually as described in your link after verifying it was a valid procedure. But me being me, I wouldn't be afraid to just tinker with the throttle plate adjustment screw and the TPS to see if the idle will come down. I would mark the screw and note the current TPS output voltage so things could be put back to original settings if things went south.
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Posted: 4/14/2021 12:31:14 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: I don't know if the auto industry used that ECM or not. Even if they did, there wont be one that will work in a marine application from a tuning standpoint. MEFIBURN is the only company I've ever sent an ECM into for repair and they told me the ECM (MEFI 3) that I sent was shot and couldn't be repaired. I had to buy the MEFI 4 upgrade at $1800.00 to repair this engine for a customer. Earlier in this thread I was wondering if the high idle in your case was done mechanically or if it was in the ECM programming. I would say that if you can identify the ALDL connector and pin-out I would try to reset manually as described in your link after verifying it was a valid procedure. But me being me, I wouldn't be afraid to just tinker with the throttle plate adjustment screw and the TPS to see if the idle will come down. I would mark the screw and note the current TPS output voltage so things could be put back to original settings if things went south. That'[s what I'm going to do. When the weather clears up...probably next week. I have another job in my covered work area right now. The MP guy said the only difference in the jet boat programming and what I want is the idle. |
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Posted: 4/19/2021 6:02:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HELOBRAVO]
[#50]
Followed instructions in previous post. Got it to idle at 650 but cannot get the TPS to 0.5v.
I cannot turn it enough to get it under0.6xx volts. New IAC..... want new TPS. The factory manual part number doesn't reliable match up tp anything and MP doesn't stock. It has to look like this one exactly, the more round one will not clear the IAC.  Attached File Attached File@KB7DX |
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