OFFICIAL Print/Parts/CAD request thread. All part/CAD requests go through this thread! (Page 6 of 18)
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Anybody have the print files for this?  https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Best-thing-ever-at-Shot-Show-Preorder-now-/5-2523397/ Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Requiem: Anybody have the print files for this? https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Best-thing-ever-at-Shot-Show-Preorder-now-/5-2523397/ https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179517/20220119_085611_HDR_jpg-2245842.JPG https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3370751/comments |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Length? Do you prefer an open meplat in which to fill from or would you prefer to fill from the tail? What weight you hoping for? After a lot of input from others, would someone be able to scale this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094048) down to the molded piece to 1.68 diameter |
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Originally Posted By Thunder69Storm: After a lot of input from others, would someone be able to scale this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094048) down to the molded piece to 1.68 diameter Thoughts on material you would mold from and shrinkage of that material? 
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Originally Posted By scul: Thoughts on material you would mold from and shrinkage of that material? Thinking concrete plaster or epoxy of some sort, obviously would need some sort of release agent. But as always open to suggestions |
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Originally Posted By Thunder69Storm: After a lot of input from others, would someone be able to scale this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094048) down to the molded piece to 1.68 diameter Depending on not only the print but final material shrinkage, you may be best fine tuning scaling in your slicer as you print iterations. |
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Originally Posted By Thunder69Storm: Thinking concrete plaster or epoxy of some sort, obviously would need some sort of release agent. But as always open to suggestions Originally Posted By Thunder69Storm: Originally Posted By scul: Thoughts on material you would mold from and shrinkage of that material? Thinking concrete plaster or epoxy of some sort, obviously would need some sort of release agent. But as always open to suggestions Finally got it exported and uploaded to Thangs. Like Rat said, it'll probably require some iterations of scaling in your slicer for the material shrinkage once you figure out what you'll be using. |
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Originally Posted By scul: Finally got it exported and uploaded to Thangs. Like Rat said, it'll probably require some iterations of scaling in your slicer for the material shrinkage once you figure out what you'll be using. Thank you! you guys rock, will have to upload a video once I get it printed and molded |
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Small BEC mount request. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5175195 |
The accumulated filth of all their sex and murder will foam up about their waists and all the whores and politicians will look up and shout "Save us!"... and I'll look down, and whisper "No."
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@c7aea15 What kinds of temps does this need to deal with? |
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: @c7aea15 What kinds of temps does this need to deal with? Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: What kinds of temps does this need to deal with? |
The accumulated filth of all their sex and murder will foam up about their waists and all the whores and politicians will look up and shout "Save us!"... and I'll look down, and whisper "No."
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Originally Posted By c7aea15: Nothing too hot I'd guess. I wouldn't expect it to get more than warm to the touch. Originally Posted By c7aea15: Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: What kinds of temps does this need to deal with? |
Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: I can print it up for you. Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Originally Posted By c7aea15: Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: What kinds of temps does this need to deal with? |
The accumulated filth of all their sex and murder will foam up about their waists and all the whores and politicians will look up and shout "Save us!"... and I'll look down, and whisper "No."
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EDIT: beat by Rat_Patrol I can probably knock you one out real quick & ugly for you, unless you need it made out of whatever space age experimental hyper-alloy Rat is using these days  ESUN PLA+ should be fine for this, right R_P? All I would ask for is a shipping label for the carrier of your choice (FedEx, UPS, or USPS). If there are better offers, no hard feelings here. |
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Originally Posted By Popov: EDIT: beat by Rat_Patrol I can probably knock you one out real quick & ugly for you, unless you need it made out of whatever space age experimental hyper-alloy Rat is using these days ESUN PLA+ should be fine for this, right R_P? All I would ask for is a shipping label for the carrier of your choice (FedEx, UPS, or USPS). If there are better offers, no hard feelings here. |
Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: PLA+ would likely be OK for this, but I'll use carbon fiber PETG just for the overkill factor. Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Originally Posted By Popov: EDIT: beat by Rat_Patrol I can probably knock you one out real quick & ugly for you, unless you need it made out of whatever space age experimental hyper-alloy Rat is using these days ESUN PLA+ should be fine for this, right R_P? All I would ask for is a shipping label for the carrier of your choice (FedEx, UPS, or USPS). If there are better offers, no hard feelings here. I gotta get me a spool of that to try out some time, the way you keep talking it up. |
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Originally Posted By Popov: I gotta get me a spool of that to try out some time, the way you keep talking it up. Originally Posted By Popov: Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Originally Posted By Popov: EDIT: beat by Rat_Patrol I can probably knock you one out real quick & ugly for you, unless you need it made out of whatever space age experimental hyper-alloy Rat is using these days ESUN PLA+ should be fine for this, right R_P? All I would ask for is a shipping label for the carrier of your choice (FedEx, UPS, or USPS). If there are better offers, no hard feelings here. I gotta get me a spool of that to try out some time, the way you keep talking it up.  . Love the stuff. |
Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: I can print it up for you. Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Originally Posted By c7aea15: Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: What kinds of temps does this need to deal with? Posted up the remix that allows printing the model without supports: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5224480 |
Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: On the printer now. Posted up the remix that allows printing the model without supports: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5224480 |
The accumulated filth of all their sex and murder will foam up about their waists and all the whores and politicians will look up and shout "Save us!"... and I'll look down, and whisper "No."
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Does anyone have any good files for a basic bitch barrel vise jaws/block? There's one on Thingiverse for a M&P22, which would probably work fine, but I was thinking that something partially sacrificial would be better. That file calls for 100% infill, but I think something that would conform to the barrel's contour might work a little better, even if it has to get trashed afterwards due to cracking. |
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Originally Posted By JAG2955: Does anyone have any good files for a basic bitch barrel vise jaws/block? There's one on Thingiverse for a M&P22, which would probably work fine, but I was thinking that something partially sacrificial would be better. That file calls for 100% infill, but I think something that would conform to the barrel's contour might work a little better, even if it has to get trashed afterwards due to cracking. |
Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Thunder69Storm: Thank you! you guys rock, will have to upload a video once I get it printed and molded Originally Posted By Thunder69Storm: Originally Posted By scul: Finally got it exported and uploaded to Thangs. Like Rat said, it'll probably require some iterations of scaling in your slicer for the material shrinkage once you figure out what you'll be using. Thank you! you guys rock, will have to upload a video once I get it printed and molded @Thunder69Storm you try this out yet? |
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Originally Posted By scul: @Thunder69Storm you try this out yet? Originally Posted By scul: Originally Posted By Thunder69Storm: Originally Posted By scul: Finally got it exported and uploaded to Thangs. Like Rat said, it'll probably require some iterations of scaling in your slicer for the material shrinkage once you figure out what you'll be using. Thank you! you guys rock, will have to upload a video once I get it printed and molded @Thunder69Storm you try this out yet? Not Yet still experimenting with casting material. |
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Idea but not sure if 3D printing would work. RRA Entry stock type short a1/2 style fixed stock. Maybe made to slide over round pistol buffer. End of stock designed to take a1/a2 butt plate. other idea would be Bell and Carson ar15 thumbhole stock (stargate TV show "Carter special") same short length as above and butt cap No idea if even possible since I know jack shit about 3d printing but have a friend that has a wife that does printing but not designs. |
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Can I get some help with a quick CAD design? It's to add a Lowrance mount to the mirror of my Sea Doo. I have a model of the mirror from someone else's design, and a model of the Lowrance base. I removed most of the other mount from the mirror, but it needs to be cleaned up a little (highlighted in yellow) Then, I need to draw support connecting the mount to the mirror (where the red lines are). The mount is pink and the mirror is tan. The tan mirror will replace an OEM part. I want to keep the pink part about where it is and draw some thing connecting them. I'm trying to do this in TinkerCAD but it's driving me nuts with the irregular angles. Can I give someone the .STL and have them draw the parts I need in a better program?   
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Anyone up for designing an insert that will fit into a 10.8oz folgers can, to hold four reloading dies (in hornady LNL die bushings) upright? It would make for compact, closeable,stackable storage. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By saturnsport8k: Anyone up for designing an insert that will fit into a 10.8oz folgers can, to hold four reloading dies (in hornady LNL die bushings) upright? It would make for compact, closeable,stackable storage. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/274186/717EE7CF-AE56-4596-8FA6-47AEE2D1BF44_jpe-2289249.JPG @saturnsport8k Why would you want to retrofit a Folger's can, vs. just making a holder from scratch? Sure, you might use a little less filament, but I think it would be more cumbersome vs. just creating a case from the ground up. Or are you thinking something I'm not? |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: @saturnsport8k Why would you want to retrofit a Folger's can, vs. just making a holder from scratch? Sure, you might use a little less filament, but I think it would be more cumbersome vs. just creating a case from the ground up. Or are you thinking something I'm not? Just trying to find a good use for these Folgers cans i have laying around other than holding brass. I like how they have lids too. I actually think this is easy enough for me to draft myself. I’ll share what I come up with. |
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Originally Posted By saturnsport8k: Just trying to find a good use for these Folgers cans i have laying around other than holding brass. I like how they have lids too. I actually think this is easy enough for me to draft myself. I’ll share what I come up with. Here’s my first draft. But at 8hours per print, I am sure it can be improved. But I know I don’t have the engineering or CAD skills to do it. Any suggestions or help is appreciated. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Looks ok. Print it up with draft settings to check the fit! Well, i printed a draft and learned a few things. My measurements were off regarding the collet, so the die doesn’t fit into its groove. And while the stand does fit snugly in the mouth of the jar, the body is a bit wider, so it jangles around inside. So I’m thinking of making the holder into a whole container with a bottom, cut the bottom of the jar off, and slide the jar over the holder. That way it will fit snugly, have a bottom, and the lid still works. Pics attached. Thoughts? Attached File |
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Originally Posted By saturnsport8k: Well, i printed a draft and learned a few things. My measurements were off regarding the collet, so the die doesn't fit into its groove. And while the stand does fit snugly in the mouth of the jar, the body is a bit wider, so it jangles around inside. So I'm thinking of making the holder into a whole container with a bottom, cut the bottom of the jar off, and slide the jar over the holder. That way it will fit snugly, have a bottom, and the lid still works. Pics attached. Thoughts? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/274186/A4023E8B-AE77-47C4-ACFE-9F7092D71797_png-2296545.JPG To avoid clogging this thread, should probably start a new one for it. |
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Would anyone be willing and able to print me two or three of these Lock Stud Holders for the Lee Case Length Gauge? My son designed these for me to fix some of the issues we had with the old versions that cracked after some use. I posted about it in the reloading section HERE---page 6 post #3. I needed to size some 7mm-08 casings tonight without my old ones and 3 hours later my fingers are killing me!  They are only .4" tall and less than 2" inches square so they shouldn't take too long to print. If anyone is willing, the file is available HERE on Thingiverse.  This is my set up showing the old version. It cracked in about the 2:00 position--above the black dot. Some of the others cracked in the 3:00 position where the screw/nut go through. |
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Originally Posted By kjk200: Would anyone be willing and able to print me two or three of these Lock Stud Holders for the Lee Case Length Gauge? My son designed these for me to fix some of the issues we had with the old versions that cracked after some use. I posted about it in the reloading section HERE---page 6 post #3. I needed to size some 7mm-08 casings tonight without my old ones and 3 hours later my fingers are killing me! https://i.imgur.com/CDxFOZP.png?1 They are only .4" tall and less than 2" inches square so they shouldn't take too long to print. If anyone is willing, the file is available HERE on Thingiverse. https://i.imgur.com/7WJmDa9l.jpg This is my set up showing the old version. It cracked in about the 2:00 position--above the black dot. Some of the others cracked in the 3:00 position where the screw/nut go through. I can get that for you. I've got a busy day tomorrow, tag me so I don't forget. |
Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. Hard times breed strong men.
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Well, as luck would have it, the file was released for something I wanted just as soon as I put my Ender 5+ cabinet into storage. Going to be moving into a temp residence for about a year and won't have space for it. Would anyone be willing to print this out for me? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5308919 On it's side with supports, 80% plus infil, PLA+ or stronger. Black is ideal, but honestly any color is fine as long as it's not one of the unpaintable filaments. Can reimburse via pp, venmo, or snail mail. Thanks! |
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Originally Posted By Thor: Well, as luck would have it, the file was released for something I wanted just as soon as I put my Ender 5+ cabinet into storage. Going to be moving into a temp residence for about a year and won't have space for it. Would anyone be willing to print this out for me? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5308919 On it's side with supports, 80% plus infil, PLA+ or stronger. Black is ideal, but honestly any color is fine as long as it's not one of the unpaintable filaments. Can reimburse via pp, venmo, or snail mail. Thanks! I have black pla in the machine right now. I'll give it a go when I get home from work. |
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So I won a 3D printer at a Cola Warrior event but still haven't got around to doing anything with it. I've downloaded and looked at a bunch of software but haven't have the time to totally figure it out yet. Could someone please scale one of the files so the inner diameter is 44.5mm? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2654878 Should be a simple enough first print job for me that doesn't need to be perfect and it will serve a purpose. |
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Originally Posted By USMC2671: So I won a 3D printer at a Cola Warrior event but still haven't got around to doing anything with it. I've downloaded and looked at a bunch of software but haven't have the time to totally figure it out yet. Could someone please scale one of the files so the inner diameter is 44.5mm? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2654878 Should be a simple enough first print job for me that doesn't need to be perfect and it will serve a purpose. Can your printer print ASA? With it being in the sun and under some stress you really want that made of a resilient UV stable plastic. |
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Originally Posted By USMC2671: So I won a 3D printer at a Cola Warrior event but still haven't got around to doing anything with it. I've downloaded and looked at a bunch of software but haven't have the time to totally figure it out yet. Could someone please scale one of the files so the inner diameter is 44.5mm? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2654878 Should be a simple enough first print job for me that doesn't need to be perfect and it will serve a purpose. Scaled both: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/156069-18m-spiderpole-guy-rings-scaled-remix Checkout OnShape and Fusion360. I used OnShape to scale this as Fusion360 doesn't have a good Linux solution. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Can your printer print ASA? With it being in the sun and under some stress you really want that made of a resilient UV stable plastic. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Can your printer print ASA? With it being in the sun and under some stress you really want that made of a resilient UV stable plastic. It's an Ender3, so I think so. Originally Posted By scul: Scaled both: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/156069-18m-spiderpole-guy-rings-scaled-remix Checkout OnShape and Fusion360. I used OnShape to scale this as Fusion360 doesn't have a good Linux solution. Thanks! |
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I am looking for some help with altering a 3d printer file. Backstory: I occasionally do some backyard sand casting making various things out of aluminum. Motorcycle parts, Star Wars props, etc. A few months ago I had the idea to make a belt buckle out of brass. The design was a logo I made up for my department at work, just three stylized letters on a rectangular background. I had no way of easily turning my idea into a pattern suitable for casting but it turned out I had a friend that did. Not only did she do the design for me but printed it out as well. While it is exactly what I asked for, the geometry isn’t ideal for sand casting. Sand casting patterns should have angles that are just slightly greater than 90 degrees so they pull out of the sand without taking any sand with them. So, while I was able to cast a not great/not terrible belt buckle, I’d like it to be better. But to do that I need help altering my 3d file. And since my friend is busy with her real job AND won’t charge me for the work she’s already done, I feel bad asking her to make changes. So I’ve come here for help. I have both an STL file and a 3mf (whatever those are) that I can send someone for editing. I can pay in money or imitation crab meat if preferred. And I’d rather not post a picture of my design here publicly since it could identify my company and department. But here’s a cropped shot of the sand sticking in the tight places: Attached File |
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Originally Posted By AR-1904: I am looking for some help with altering a 3d printer file. Backstory: I occasionally do some backyard sand casting making various things out of aluminum. Motorcycle parts, Star Wars props, etc. A few months ago I had the idea to make a belt buckle out of brass. The design was a logo I made up for my department at work, just three stylized letters on a rectangular background. I had no way of easily turning my idea into a pattern suitable for casting but it turned out I had a friend that did. Not only did she do the design for me but printed it out as well. While it is exactly what I asked for, the geometry isn't ideal for sand casting. Sand casting patterns should have angles that are just slightly greater than 90 degrees so they pull out of the sand without taking any sand with them. So, while I was able to cast a not great/not terrible belt buckle, I'd like it to be better. But to do that I need help altering my 3d file. And since my friend is busy with her real job AND won't charge me for the work she's already done, I feel bad asking her to make changes. So I've come here for help. I have both an STL file and a 3mf (whatever those are) that I can send someone for editing. I can pay in money or imitation crab meat if preferred. And I'd rather not post a picture of my design here publicly since it could identify my company and department. But here's a cropped shot of the sand sticking in the tight places: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/168740/D8233EF4-7068-44C0-AF7D-62951C9628B1_jpe-2331191.JPG I might have time later this week or next, remind me and I can take a crack at drafting the walls. |
Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. Hard times breed strong men.