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Posted: 3/30/2024 3:37:40 PM EDT
Hey guys, I'm going to be stick framing up a small office (12'x20') in the corner of my metal building.

Should I tie the stick frame along the metal building walls to the girts? The metal walls are insulated, and the entire shop is heated. I'm wondering about expansion and contraction. There are windows in the metal building that I plan on framing around.

Should I apply a construction adhesive to the sill plates to the concrete?

Any other ideas?
Link Posted: 3/30/2024 4:55:00 PM EDT
[#1]
I'll be curious to see what you end up doing. I keep saying I want to do an office but not bad enough to research the proper way of doing it.
Link Posted: 3/31/2024 9:04:41 AM EDT
[#2]
If the internal girts are reachable, then yes you want to attach the ends of the two walls to them.  Then the two walls together where they meet, with a king stud or california corner.  Double top plate going the other way over the corner. You may not need adhesive under the bottom plate, just anchor the walls, like with tapcons, extra anchors near the door(s).  You will want a vapor barrier under the bottom plates, zip tape or a roll of foam, something.

Be sure to measure drift in the floor so your top plates are level, not all the studs may be the same height.
Link Posted: 3/31/2024 10:08:16 AM EDT
[#3]
Thanks. Vapor barrier, or just PT sill plates?


Link Posted: 4/1/2024 4:54:06 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
Thanks. Vapor barrier, or just PT sill plates?


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You really want some kind of barrier. Wood wicks moisture and concrete likes to hold moisture.
Link Posted: 4/1/2024 10:30:22 PM EDT
[#5]
Good point  I'll heed that advice for sure.
Link Posted: 4/11/2024 9:22:33 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Good point  I'll heed that advice for sure.
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PT plates with foam strip stapled to bottom between the plate and concrete.
Or ZIP tape or alternative (deck tape for example) if you have any of that on hand already.

The foam rolls are inexpensive.

You could put adhesive also, but not really needed. Anchor the plates in the concrete with ramshot or with concrete Anchors
Link Posted: 4/19/2024 10:20:07 AM EDT
[#7]
No need for PT since these are interior walls on a sealed structure, you just need to isolate the wood from the concrete.  ZIP tape has the added advantage of wrapping up the wood so if you get a flood in the shop it won't wick into the wood as readily.  Really comes down to how much you care about that vs just going the cheaper route with the foam rolls.  

Good tip about checking for the drift in the floor.  If you don't want to fuck with that you can just ramset/tapcon a sleeper onto the floor.  Then frame and shear panel the wall on the ground, and when you raise it you can shim it to be level.  Just depends on how you're doing the work (solo vs with help)
Link Posted: 5/5/2024 10:45:42 AM EDT
[#8]
I was always under the impression that wood shouldn’t be used in a steel structure, do to condensation.

Bashing tin(steel framing) is cheaper and super user friendly. Not fun, but easy.

An added bonus would be(can be)perfectly true framing.
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