User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 6:58:54 PM EDT
This thing is being a little stubborn.
I’ve got the upper in a Magpul BEV block and I’m using a Magpul wrench. Even with a mini sledge I could barely get it to move a half a tooth. I applied heat and it didn’t help. At this point I’m worried I’m going to damage the upper or sheer the pin in the barrel extension. Any ideas? This has never happened with any other upper I’ve taken apart. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:02:50 PM EDT
[#1]
Have your wife do it?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:03:35 PM EDT
[#2]
They have assembly retards that must torque barrel nuts by hanging off a cheater bar. Good luck getting it off without cracking the upper.
It’s going to take a combination of heat, freezing, a cheater bar and the will of God to remove that thing. Fucking BCM. Never again. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:04:24 PM EDT
[#3]
Well something has moved as the nut no longer lines up.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:04:48 PM EDT
[#4]
Breaker bar and armorer's wrench.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:05:35 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Have your wife do it? You can't change the fact if nobody used grease on the threads and extension now. If the threads are galled, they are galled. If you must have the barrel off keep using more torque. You might damage something but if it has to come off it has to come off. Look at getting a G action rod if you are going to be swapping barrels out a lot in the future. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:05:37 PM EDT
[#6]
Use a heat gun
I actually used a cutoff wheel since I was using a different barrel nut when putting back together |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:05:37 PM EDT
[#7]
I have twisted one upper, and broken another. One was a old dpms, and the other a palmetto.
The next one that gave me trouble I cut off the nut with a dremel before I broke anything. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:07:28 PM EDT
[#8]
barrel extention tool will probably help but ya that sucks
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:10:41 PM EDT
[#9]
I’m going to be pissed if I damage this upper, it’s been cerakoted in urban camo.
I applied heat with a MAP gas torch but the aluminum is probably growing faster than the steel. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:11:13 PM EDT
[#10]
I'd probably shoot in some penetrating oil and give it a day. And use a different receiver block that clamshells (Brownell's use to sell them?). I've bang on a few wrenches to tighten the nut to line-up the tangs for the gas tube. So they seem to be able to handle more than we think.
Yes. Brownells. AR-15/M16 UPPER RECEIVER ACTION BLOCK 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:11:18 PM EDT
[#11]
BCM's are known for this. Heat and slow steady torque.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:14:26 PM EDT
[#12]
I’ve never had a problem with getting BCM barrel nuts loose.
It’s every other screw and fastener on a BCM that usually involves heat, broken knuckles, and swearing. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:16:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm going to be pissed if I damage this upper, it's been cerakoted in urban camo. I applied heat with a MAP gas torch but the aluminum is probably growing faster than the steel. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:18:43 PM EDT
[#14]
Honestly I have no idea what if anything they used on the threads.
Feels like they used Rocksett. I’ve disassembled uppers built by Colt, DD, and several other manufacturers and they’ve all come apart easily with the same tools I’m using right now. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:19:57 PM EDT
[#15]
Place whole thing in freezer overnight. Heat just the nut, twist.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:21:31 PM EDT
[#16]
Did you tighten it more or something?
Lefty-Loosie 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:21:42 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'd probably shoot in some penetrating oil and give it a day. And use a different receiver block that clamshells (Brownell's use to sell them?). I've bang on a few wrenches to tighten the nut to line-up the tangs for the gas tube. So they seem to be able to handle more than we think. Yes. Brownells. AR-15/M16 UPPER RECEIVER ACTION BLOCK https://cdn-fsly.yottaa.net/53ff2f503c881650e20004c9/www.brownells.com/v~4b.11a/userdocs/products/p_702003015_3.jpg?yocs=p_E_ I tried RR/Bev blocks. Clamshell still works the best for stubborn nuts. Also heat. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:22:28 PM EDT
[#18]
Got the bolt on the back of the bev block for stability?
Heat it up, hit the inside with brake clean to cool the aluminum, your gonna have to be fast but take an extra second to check your setup before applying force. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:23:01 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: . Heat and slow steady torque. This. A reaction rod would be better than those plastic Bev blocks but you gotta use what ya got |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:24:39 PM EDT
[#20]
Yeah I have the carrier installed and it’s engaging the BEV block.
I have a 36” breaker bar at the shop, I’m going to toss the upper in the freezer and try again tomorrow. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:25:18 PM EDT
[#21]
Steady heat and steady pressure with a pipe on the breaker bar. Use map gas.
Also, be prepared for some GD love. Finally, don’t buy BCM. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:27:13 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Honestly I have no idea what if anything they used on the threads. Feels like they used Rocksett. I’ve disassembled uppers built by Colt, DD, and several other manufacturers and they’ve all come apart easily with the same tools I’m using right now. I’ve got a good friend who’s an armorer on a PD that uses BCM rifles. Former mil, very knowledgeable on firearms, Colt armorer course, has put together a ton of rifles, etc. Said he’s seen BCM barrel nuts that use thread locker. No reason to doubt it. Maybe it’s just one of their mouth-breathing assemblers doing it. Who knows. If they didn’t pay cool special forces guys to market for them they’d be in the same league as DPMS. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:27:32 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This. A reaction rod would be better than those plastic Bev blocks but you gotta use what ya got Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: . Heat and slow steady torque. This. A reaction rod would be better than those plastic Bev blocks but you gotta use what ya got Use a barrel vise. The reaction rod is a fine tool for certain applications. This is not one such application. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:28:48 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve got a good friend who’s an armorer on a PD that uses BCM rifles. Former mil, very knowledgeable on firearms, Colt armorer course, has put together a ton of rifles, etc. Said he’s seen BCM barrel nuts that use thread locker. No reason to doubt it. Maybe it’s just one of their mouth-breathing assemblers doing it. Who knows. If they didn’t pay cool special forces guys to market for them they’d be in the same league as DPMS. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Honestly I have no idea what if anything they used on the threads. Feels like they used Rocksett. I’ve disassembled uppers built by Colt, DD, and several other manufacturers and they’ve all come apart easily with the same tools I’m using right now. I’ve got a good friend who’s an armorer on a PD that uses BCM rifles. Former mil, very knowledgeable on firearms, Colt armorer course, has put together a ton of rifles, etc. Said he’s seen BCM barrel nuts that use thread locker. No reason to doubt it. Maybe it’s just one of their mouth-breathing assemblers doing it. Who knows. If they didn’t pay cool special forces guys to market for them they’d be in the same league as DPMS. I guarantee he has seen BCM products with adhesive applied. I also have. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:29:25 PM EDT
[#25]
I would agree with some others that waves of heat and being slow/consistent is the way to go.
I would also look into a better way to secure the upper. Reaction Rod from Geissele or a full clamp on the upper. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:34:00 PM EDT
[#26]
I used a cheater bar to get a PSA upper off. After it collapsed my 3/4 inch MDF top.
2 of those and a 3rd 3/4 inch melamine top and I was about to pry it off |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:38:26 PM EDT
[#27]
This is why I build all my own uppers.
OP, liquid wrench, heat, time, and torque. Also make sure you are turning the right way. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:38:37 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This. A reaction rod would be better than those plastic Bev blocks but you gotta use what ya got A reaction rod is for muzzle device. You will ruin the barrel or upper with a reaction rod. Geisssele has a especial one for this but I just have the regular one. Midwest Industries Upper Receiver Rod looks like the best rod out there. Same as reaction rod but also locks in the upper. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 7:40:29 PM EDT
[#29]
Do you have a large punch? Use the punch and a hammer on the barrel nut as the direct force can break it loose.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 8:46:24 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A reaction rod is for muzzle device. No |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 8:56:43 PM EDT
[#31]
BEV Block!!!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 8:57:06 PM EDT
[#32]
I had the same issue with my Ruger AR-556 nut. I used the magpul wrench and block. Worked on it for three days. Last day I threw the upper in the freezer while I went to buy a 25 inch breaker bar. The hour in the freezer, little heat on the nut and breaker bar combo worked. No evidence of any type of thread locker found. I think it went on dry to about 300 ft lbs.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 9:01:19 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No Ever do any pipe fitting? The barrel nut and upper are thread together not the barrel and barrel nut. click |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 9:09:10 PM EDT
[#34]
Freezer. It's my tried and true method. Over night in the freezer and the barrel nut damn near jumps off.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 9:24:38 PM EDT
[#35]
point that pointy blue thing hard and heavy
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 9:25:48 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'd probably shoot in some penetrating oil and give it a day. And use a different receiver block that clamshells (Brownell's use to sell them?). I've bang on a few wrenches to tighten the nut to line-up the tangs for the gas tube. So they seem to be able to handle more than we think. Yes. Brownells. AR-15/M16 UPPER RECEIVER ACTION BLOCK https://cdn-fsly.yottaa.net/53ff2f503c881650e20004c9/www.brownells.com/v~4b.11a/userdocs/products/p_702003015_3.jpg?yocs=p_E_ Agreed^ I've never had a problem using a clamshell block & tapco wrench for removing stubborn barrel nuts - be sure to give the nut a good soak in penetrating oil before you start (that's what she said )I've used the technique on over-torqued Palmetto uppers when installing a free float handguard, and never had an issue. If you're worried someone used a thread locker during assembly, heat can do the trick to loosen loctite (don't go overboard with it, and stick it in the freezer afterward to help the aluminum shrink - heat expands aluminum more than steel, and will temporarily tighten the fit between the threads). Doesn't sound likely if it's a factory BCM upper though. Freezing is another good option, there's a good bit of difference between the Coefficient of Thermal Expansion (CTE) of steel and aluminum, so that'll probably help quite a bit to ease the removal as well. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 9:37:19 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This. A reaction rod would be better than those plastic Bev blocks but you gotta use what ya got  You realize the bev block is plastic covered steel, with a steel engagement for the receiver extension.It'll hold about the same as the reaction rod. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/14/2021 10:00:55 PM EDT
[#38]
Heat, liquid wrench and slow steady torque (both left and right). Repeat.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 12:47:21 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ever do any pipe fitting? The barrel nut and upper are thread together not the barrel and barrel nut. click I think you missed my point so I will elaborate. I was saying no to using the RR for MD work. Proper way to do MD work is with the barrel secured in a barrel vise or in vice blocks. I personally don't think the Reaction Rod is good for much and don't own one. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 12:49:02 PM EDT
[#40]
If it on there that good just cut it off
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 12:58:48 PM EDT
[#41]
they glue them. You have to heat the nut hot enough to render the glue to a liquid. it will smoke and then run out. when you see dampness around the nut joint, then you'll know you've got it.
see the liquid? AND THE BROKEN NUT TEETH?  |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 1:04:13 PM EDT
[#42]
In to see the damage...
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 1:08:10 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In to see the damage... LOL dick I don’t care if I damage the barrel nut or even the barrel I just have to salvage the upper, I’m using it for the barrel that came in my LaRue accuracy package I’m going to take the upper to the shop, heat up the barrel nut and crank on it with a 3’ breaker bar |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 1:13:08 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: LOL dick I don't care if I damage the barrel nut or even the barrel I just have to salvage the upper, I'm using it for the barrel that came in my LaRue accuracy package I'm going to take the upper to the shop, heat up the barrel nut and crank on it with a 3' breaker bar |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 1:18:38 PM EDT
[#45]
That’s actually a good idea, I have a big pipe wrench at the shop
I have a brand new barrel nut so I don’t care about this one |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 1:29:52 PM EDT
[#46]
I once cut a seized/rusted choke from a buddys duck hunting marsh/coastal shotgun.
Used a fine tooth snip of a bandsaw blade and cut by hand, barrel threads were not harmed. Took 2hrs. Just a story..carry on. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 4:49:28 PM EDT
[#47]
It’s a thermal fit receiver. Use lots of heat.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 4:57:48 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Freezer. It's my tried and true method. Over night in the freezer and the barrel nut damn near jumps off. I was scrolling through to see if anyone mentioned it. Do this OP |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 6:52:49 PM EDT
[#49]
I got it
Heated up the barrel nut until it was smoking and used a breaker bar with the Magpul wrench It broke loose after I put all of my weight on it  Got the LaRue barrel installed  Thanks for the suggestions, I’m not buying anymore assembled uppers from BCM 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/15/2021 6:55:49 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’m going to take the upper to the shop, heat up the barrel nut and crank on it with a 3’ breaker bar You're on the right track. I've yet to come across a barrel nut I couldn't remove with a 2' bar so a 3' should be plenty. I'd also recommend a PRI 5 pin barrel nut wrench so the torque is applied all around the BN instead of on just one side. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
