3D suppressors (Page 8 of 11)
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Originally Posted By memsu: I decided to still print the FTN5 for now, since I just bought the thread adapters but they changed up the mounting for the FTN6 models. Just started a FTN Rimfire Flow spiral model. First time printing with PA6-CF and so far it's looking amazing. Using 300BlkFDE's print settings modified for OrcaSlicer and my QIDI Plus 4. Edit: Well, I stopped the print because I'm suffering on the overhangs and getting strings that aren't attaching to the plastic when it goes in a circle. Upon my slicer settings I had classic wall generation and only 3 walls as specified, but now trying arachne wall generation and 8 walls. There were areas that looked better supported in the print when I did that. I'm real curious if this has the potential of being more quiet than my Silencerco 22LR suppressor given that it might have more volume than it. My ftn5 rimfire is hella quiet and has an amazing tone on my ruger MK2. Probably quieter than my dead air mask. Other than the extra girth which interferes with my Streamlight TLR VIR, I'm a huge fan. I'm really looking forward to printing a more compact ftn6 rimfire. If you wanted to print an ftn6 rimfire you could modify the included step file to accept a 3/4 adapter instead. I believe there's enough room for one. |
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I already have a DA Mask so I'm not too interested in the slimmer FTN6 rimfire. The FTN5 one sounds amazing and is plenty light. Anyone have suggestions for good 1/2 x 28 to 3/4 x 16 adaptors? The Amazon ones are fine, but they are a bit dogy on quality. I'd prefer one with a squared or hex shaped head so I can use a wrench to remove it if it gets stuck. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I already have a DA Mask so I'm not too interested in the slimmer FTN6 rimfire. The FTN5 one sounds amazing and is plenty light. Anyone have suggestions for good 1/2 x 28 to 3/4 x 16 adaptors? The Amazon ones are fine, but they are a bit dogy on quality. I'd prefer one with a squared or hex shaped head so I can use a wrench to remove it if it gets stuck. My next buy will be some US made adapters from downrange products. BTW correct nomenclature for UN threads is 1/2-28 not 1/2x28. Signed, a grumpy machinist. 
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I already have a DA Mask so I'm not too interested in the slimmer FTN6 rimfire. The FTN5 one sounds amazing and is plenty light. Anyone have suggestions for good 1/2 x 28 to 3/4 x 16 adaptors? The Amazon ones are fine, but they are a bit dogy on quality. I'd prefer one with a squared or hex shaped head so I can use a wrench to remove it if it gets stuck. I bought these because they are supposed to be made in USA. https://www.ebay.com/itm/162417819829 |
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Originally Posted By memsu: I bought these because they are supposed to be made in USA. https://www.ebay.com/itm/162417819829 That's who I'm going with. He has more options on his website. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: That's who I'm going with. He has more options on his website. Those look way nicer than the chinesium ones I got from Amazon that needed the threads chased lol |
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Originally Posted By thezentree: Those look way nicer than the chinesium ones I got from Amazon that needed the threads chased lol Originally Posted By thezentree: Originally Posted By Blob: That's who I'm going with. He has more options on his website. Those look way nicer than the chinesium ones I got from Amazon that needed the threads chased lol |
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Originally Posted By Blob: My ftn5 rimfire is hella quiet and has an amazing tone on my ruger MK2. Probably quieter than my dead air mask. Other than the extra girth which interferes with my Streamlight TLR VIR, I'm a huge fan. I'm really looking forward to printing a more compact ftn6 rimfire. If you wanted to print an ftn6 rimfire you could modify the included step file to accept a 3/4 adapter instead. I believe there's enough room for one. the ftn.5 slim is supposed to be just about as quiet as the regular one. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I already have a DA Mask so I'm not too interested in the slimmer FTN6 rimfire. The FTN5 one sounds amazing and is plenty light. Anyone have suggestions for good 1/2 x 28 to 3/4 x 16 adaptors? The Amazon ones are fine, but they are a bit dogy on quality. I'd prefer one with a squared or hex shaped head so I can use a wrench to remove it if it gets stuck. These are what I use; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJ556WMB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title |
| I missed the change in the thread adaptors!. I am printing a FTN.6 22, I am using PA6-CF and I am printing it on an angle. Manly because I have had mixed results with printing PA6-cf ( I am still learning). If it prints well I will print a Boosted (mm and a no boosted K can 9mm. I guess while I am waiting on the adaptors I can anneal and moisture condition. I hope the threads print well as I have to chase the threads on the 3/4 x 16. |
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Originally Posted By DANGERRUSS: I missed the change in the thread adaptors!. I am printing a FTN.6 22, I am using PA6-CF and I am printing it on an angle. Manly because I have had mixed results with printing PA6-cf ( I am still learning). If it prints well I will print a Boosted (mm and a no boosted K can 9mm. I guess while I am waiting on the adaptors I can anneal and moisture condition. I hope the threads print well as I have to chase the threads on the 3/4 x 16. Why are you printing on an angle? It is not needed for the rimfire cans. The FTNs and other reputable 2A designs are designed for and tested at specific orientations and I always recommend to use the designers suggested orientation. If you're having trouble printing PA6 then you need to go back, figure out the root cause, and correct it before continuing. The #1 source of trouble is wet filament from insufficient drying. 100C is ideal. When the material is thoroughly dried then printing PA6 is really no trouble at all. |
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Originally Posted By DANGERRUSS: I think I have my settings right. In the readme on the boosted 9mm it said for more strength to angle the print. so I thought i would test it out with this? edit to add. I have a dryer that goes to 110! I did not see anywhere in the boostered readme that says to angle it. It does say that all files are pre-oriented with no need to change it. The baffles on many of these cans are designed at a slight angle already in order to distribute the forces across multiple layer lines to increase strength, and reorienting the part could compromise that. Just print them how they import into the slicer. ETA: The boosterless design does suggest tilting, but that is for a very specific purpose because that can is at the ragged edge of durability already since it is designed to be as light as possible, and they say to tilt it in a specific direction. |
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Optional: Stronger Print If you want a stronger print, you can tilt the model 25 degrees. This spreads the load across multiple layer lines and gives each layer more surface area to bond to. If you do this, you'll need to use regular supports on the build plate only (overhangs set to 75 degrees). Tilt AWAY from the text (this causes the K baffle blast face to be more vertical instead of less vertical) Assembly: Screw in the 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 thread adapter. The easiest way to do |
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Originally Posted By DANGERRUSS: Optional: Stronger Print If you want a stronger print, you can tilt the model 25 degrees. This spreads the load across multiple layer lines and gives each layer more surface area to bond to. If you do this, you'll need to use regular supports on the build plate only (overhangs set to 75 degrees). Tilt AWAY from the text (this causes the K baffle blast face to be more vertical instead of less vertical) Assembly: Screw in the 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 thread adapter. The easiest way to do I see that in the boosterless readme and edited my post. I still would not tilt the other cans. |
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I don't think I'm buying a real deal metal pistol suppressor anymore after the FTN6. The design looks pretty solid if you use the real deal booster and spring from McMaster. I think the only suppressor I'm actually going to buy now is one light weight titanium one for my bolt guns. I have a Saker 7.62 that's built like a tank, but it also is a heavy sob. If I feel like it maybe I'll get one of the newer 3D printed metal flow through ones. They say the flow through helps keep the suppressor cooler. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I use the standard grey and white two part |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By Blob: I did not see anywhere in the boostered readme that says to angle it. It does say that all files are pre-oriented with no need to change it. The baffles on many of these cans are designed at a slight angle already in order to distribute the forces across multiple layer lines to increase strength, and reorienting the part could compromise that. Just print them how they import into the slicer. ETA: The boosterless design does suggest tilting, but that is for a very specific purpose because that can is at the ragged edge of durability already since it is designed to be as light as possible, and they say to tilt it in a specific direction. Now I understand why when I looked at a cutaway picture of the can, it always seemed like the baffles weren't 'straight'. |
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Here is what I found waiting for me this morning! Let me know your thoughts on the print please.Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Attached File Attached File Attached File I hope this is Mo Betta |
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Originally Posted By DANGERRUSS: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/126580/IMG_8510__1__jpeg-3812853.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/126580/IMG_8511__1__jpeg-3812854.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/126580/IMG_8512_jpeg-3812856.JPG I hope this is Mo Betta |
| I know it isn't designed for it, but has anyone tested the FTN5 rimfire or rimfire flow with 5.7x28mm? I'm curious if it's overbuilt enough to withstand it. I'm also curious if the FTN5 PCC Flow can handle it. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Agree I dried the filament fresh from the pack at 100c for 12 hrs. Hydrometer said 10%. Fed from the dryer while printing. I am now printing the 9mm boosterless K can and using the smooth surface model. Printing it upright and it is looking much better. |
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Originally Posted By Global_Cooling: You can use PLA+ for the FTN.5 .22cal. Originally Posted By Global_Cooling: Originally Posted By Network_Daddy: so a PLA printed can can handle 22lr? Or should you use a higher end filament? You can use PLA+ for the FTN.5 .22cal. My buddy printed one from PLA and it came out fine, but hasn't been used yet. |
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Originally Posted By Network_Daddy: so a PLA printed can can handle 22lr? Or should you use a higher end filament? Cheap PA6-CF like the Sunlu stuff is so cheap that I'm not sure why you'd bother using anything else. PLA is brittle and pretty shit for anything structural/pressure-bearing. Meanwhile PA6 is so tough that I could not crush a broken baffle stack in a vice with a cheater bar. I was bending the handle trying. I love PLA for models and other stuff where strength doesn't matter, but PA6 really is in a different universe in terms of strength. The only downside to PA6 is it requires a fancier dryer that can reach and sustain 100C. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: you can, but... Cheap PA6-CF like the Sunlu stuff is so cheap that I'm not sure why you'd bother using anything else. PLA is brittle and pretty shit for anything structural/pressure-bearing. Meanwhile PA6 is so tough that I could not crush a broken baffle stack in a vice with a cheater bar. I was bending the handle trying. I love PLA for models and other stuff where strength doesn't matter, but PA6 really is in a different universe in terms of strength. The only downside to PA6 is it requires a fancier dryer that can reach and sustain 100C. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: I have been keeping PA6-CF at 6% RH using an AMS HT at 85 degrees. Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Originally Posted By CFletch: you can, but... Cheap PA6-CF like the Sunlu stuff is so cheap that I'm not sure why you'd bother using anything else. PLA is brittle and pretty shit for anything structural/pressure-bearing. Meanwhile PA6 is so tough that I could not crush a broken baffle stack in a vice with a cheater bar. I was bending the handle trying. I love PLA for models and other stuff where strength doesn't matter, but PA6 really is in a different universe in terms of strength. The only downside to PA6 is it requires a fancier dryer that can reach and sustain 100C. |
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: I have been keeping PA6-CF at 6% RH using an AMS HT at 85 degrees. The RH meters are 100% worthless for telling you how dry the material is. One, those cheap meters are totally unreliable at such low moisture levels. Two, they are measuring the air and not the filament directly. |
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Originally Posted By Network_Daddy: The one I saw was printed with a 2mm nozzle. Is that necessary or just making it take more time for no benefit? If you mean 0.2mm, not recommended. I use 0.6mm with filled material to avoid clogs. A small nozzle will clog instantly and give a slightly weaker print in addition to taking longer. |
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I have a spool of sunlu pa6-cf coming from Amazon. I was planning on getting an amsHT at some point but is it not good enough for the pa6-cf? If it's marginal, can I run the spool in my shop air fryer for 12-24 hours at 212f(100c) and then print it from the amsHT? Also, does anyone know if I'll be able to print it from the aux nozzle on my x2d, or will I need one of the multi-ams hubs and use the main nozzle? |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By DFARM: I have a spool of sunlu pa6-cf coming from Amazon. I was planning on getting an amsHT at some point but is it not good enough for the pa6-cf? If it's marginal, can I run the spool in my shop air fryer for 12-24 hours at 212f(100c) and then print it from the amsHT? Also, does anyone know if I'll be able to print it from the aux nozzle on my x2d, or will I need one of the multi-ams hubs and use the main nozzle? I would highly recommend a real high temp drying solution. It will be more reliable and you should have one for annealing your PA6 suppressors anyway. You're leaving a lot of performance on the table if you don't. The aux nozzle on the X2D is not direct drive so quality will suffer somewhat. It will be fine for support material but I wouldn't use it on the suppressor itself. Use main nozzle for that. |