3D suppressors (Page 7 of 11)
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Originally Posted By DFARM: Silly question that maybe someone in this thread has some ideas about. Are you guys worried about marking requirements? It looks to me like there might still be a need to mark home built cans because I believe there are non-tax related laws that require it |
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Originally Posted By DFARM: Silly question that maybe someone in this thread has some ideas about. Are you guys worried about marking requirements? It looks to me like there might still be a need to mark home built cans because I believe there are non-tax related laws that require it Yea, |
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Originally Posted By scul: Yea, the marking requirements were not enjoined, so I'm pretty sure you still have to mark them. I also assume you cannot use a Trust, unless the trust is somehow a member of GOA or another specified group. Originally Posted By scul: Originally Posted By DFARM: Silly question that maybe someone in this thread has some ideas about. Are you guys worried about marking requirements? It looks to me like there might still be a need to mark home built cans because I believe there are non-tax related laws that require it Yea, the marking requirements were not enjoined, so I'm pretty sure you still have to mark them. I also assume you cannot use a Trust, unless the trust is somehow a member of GOA or another specified group. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/1000009625_jpg-3811411.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/1000009626_jpg-3811413.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/1000009627_jpg-3811414.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/1000009628_jpg-3811415.JPG Stopped the test print to inspect. The little double lines it always prints before each print look awful, definitely look like they are under-extruding. Visible gaps between the 3 walls of the outer shell, and layer gaps in the other shell. I'm going to try again with 0.9 flow rate and let it print for an hour or so and see how it looks. Might want to check your esteps |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: that looks awesome! Originally Posted By CFletch: that looks awesome! Thanks! Originally Posted By CFletch: it shouldn't be after 20 hours of drying at 100C, but I'll keep the dryer running Ah, I would hope not! Definitely keep the dryer going while printing. I was mostly going off the stringyness I see on some of the pictures... |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: The markings were not covered under SS v ATF (the one you get covered by as a GOA member), but are covered under Jensen v ATF (donate $10 to FPCAF to be covered) Originally Posted By CFletch: The markings were not covered under SS v ATF (the one you get covered by as a GOA member), but are covered under Jensen v ATF (donate $10 to FPCAF to be covered) Didn't realize that! I'm pretty sure I'm a FPCAF member already. Thanks! edit: NRA-ILA: Certain marking requirements (26 U.S.C. § 5842(b); and 26 U.S.C. § 5861(i)) are enjoined with respect to the Jensen parties only. While the effect of this portion of the injunction will take some clarification from the government, it appears that the government will not be able to enforce the NFA’s marking requirements against Jensen parties’ members and customers who possess firearms covered by the injunction. |
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Originally Posted By scul: Thanks! Ah, I would hope not! Definitely keep the dryer going while printing. I was mostly going off the stringyness I see on some of the pictures... Originally Posted By scul: Originally Posted By CFletch: that looks awesome! Thanks! Originally Posted By CFletch: it shouldn't be after 20 hours of drying at 100C, but I'll keep the dryer running Ah, I would hope not! Definitely keep the dryer going while printing. I was mostly going off the stringyness I see on some of the pictures... |
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@Rat_Patrol What effect does this ruling have on Rule 1 of this forum with respect to SBR/SBS/Suppressors? Is this being discussed for updates with Site Staff? |
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Easily irritated engineer of odd things
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EE: 100% (5)
MN, USA
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Originally Posted By scul: @Rat_Patrol What effect does this ruling have on Rule 1 of this forum with respect to SBR/SBS/Suppressors? Is this being discussed for updates with Site Staff? As of this moment, nothing changes yet. |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
| ok, about an hour and 81 layers into the FTN5 rimfire with 0.9 flow rate, and it's looking much better than the prior 0.8 flow attempt. The walls of the outer shell look much more solid, and the outer surface looks seamless. |
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Originally Posted By scul: Can't mention the suppressor without a picture!  https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/376127/4509-3811401.jpg I wasn't super impressed, but that could be my gun/ammo combo. |
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Originally Posted By blwngazkit: Post back what you think of that PPv2... I wasn't super impressed, but that could be my gun/ammo combo. Will do. Planning to use it on my 10/22. Probably won't be until next weekend I can shoot it, though... |
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| For what it's worth, my FTN5 rimfire and rimfire flow cans from my pre-clog config (0.4 nozzle and 0.95 flow) are both quieter than my DA Mask. Truly BB gun quiet and not much backblast on blowback pistols (low enough that I didn't notice any, though I wasn't thinking about it when function testing). |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: For what it's worth, my FTN5 rimfire and rimfire flow cans from my pre-clog config (0.4 nozzle and 0.95 flow) are both quieter than my DA Mask. Truly BB gun quiet and not much backblast on blowback pistols (low enough that I didn't notice any, though I wasn't thinking about it when function testing). Are those full length cans or micro? |
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Originally Posted By scul: Will do. Planning to use it on my 10/22. Probably won't be until next weekend I can shoot it, though... Originally Posted By scul: Originally Posted By blwngazkit: Post back what you think of that PPv2... I wasn't super impressed, but that could be my gun/ammo combo. Will do. Planning to use it on my 10/22. Probably won't be until next weekend I can shoot it, though... I tried 9mm. The FTN5 22lr is really very quiet, but it's also massive compared to my other stuff. No difference in sound on my bolt rifles, and I don't know that I could pick the difference on my pistols. Of course the cost is it's own benefit... |
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Originally Posted By swampfoxoutdoors: Are those full length cans or micro? Originally Posted By swampfoxoutdoors: Originally Posted By CFletch: For what it's worth, my FTN5 rimfire and rimfire flow cans from my pre-clog config (0.4 nozzle and 0.95 flow) are both quieter than my DA Mask. Truly BB gun quiet and not much backblast on blowback pistols (low enough that I didn't notice any, though I wasn't thinking about it when function testing). Are those full length cans or micro? |
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Originally Posted By blwngazkit: Oh! I missed that it was 22lr... I tried 9mm. The FTN5 22lr is really very quiet, but it's also massive compared to my other stuff. No difference in sound on my bolt rifles, and I don't know that I could pick the difference on my pistols. Of course the cost is it's own benefit... It is a little girthier but it's much lighter than a metal can and makes a huge difference in how a pistol handles. I'm a fan. |
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Originally Posted By blwngazkit: Oh! I missed that it was 22lr... I tried 9mm. The FTN5 22lr is really very quiet, but it's also massive compared to my other stuff. No difference in sound on my bolt rifles, and I don't know that I could pick the difference on my pistols. Of course the cost is it's own benefit... Originally Posted By blwngazkit: Originally Posted By scul: Originally Posted By blwngazkit: Post back what you think of that PPv2... I wasn't super impressed, but that could be my gun/ammo combo. Will do. Planning to use it on my 10/22. Probably won't be until next weekend I can shoot it, though... I tried 9mm. The FTN5 22lr is really very quiet, but it's also massive compared to my other stuff. No difference in sound on my bolt rifles, and I don't know that I could pick the difference on my pistols. Of course the cost is it's own benefit... Yeah, looking at that one myself. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I would just use PA6 for everything including the interface. Use a 0.2mm interface gap and they will break off nice and clean. Here's what the underside of mine looked like after support removal: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/20260614_143147_jpg-3811293.JPG My print was running around 300-320s layer time. If you're having trouble meeting that then you can lower the speed at which the support structure prints or add a sacrificial part like a cube off to the side and override its print speed to something really slow, like 10mm/s, maybe give it 10% gyroid infill or something. The sacrificial cube is a brilliant idea. My layer times where the print started to warp, including a 35mm cube are over 6 minutes. So why not put a 400s layer time just to be on the safe side? It works out to be a 33 hour print. |
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I printed a Pill Popper v2 in 9mm. I have only used it on my SBR'd CZ 452 Scout, and it was fairly quiet. Not as quiet as my Gemtech or SiCo Sparrow, but it only cost me less than $1 to print. I will try it on my Dark Mountain Arms 9mm with 147gr subs, but I don't expect it to be super quiet on the 9mm...at least compared to my Rugged Obsidian. I printed it in Sunlu PLA+ 2.0, since I only intend to use it with my bolt action 22lr. I will also test it on my 10/22 in the near future. |
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The test FTN5 rimfire printed pretty well with 0.9 flow. Some stringiness at furthest most reaches of the baffle overhangs, so I think I need to bump the temp back up from 280 to 300 to get it to adhere better. But the can looks quite usable. Outer surface is seamless and all the details looks right. If the next test print has stringiness on those baffles I'll up the flow a little more. ETA: and... my nozzle is starting to clog, meaning all the flow tuning I've been doing is suspect. F me. Time to cold pull. |
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 Glock Tactical Suppressor Think its possible to print something like this with ablative in the unit? |
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Originally Posted By swampfoxoutdoors:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnahn3D2sAcThink its possible to print something like this with ablative in the unit? More pics and schematic here: https://www.glocktalk.com/threads/glock-tactical-suppressor-gts.1949747 |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: I mean sure? You can add water, oil or gel to about any can. Those things had plugs front and back to seal in the oil. Not sure I'd play around with that sort of thing but YMMV. More pics and schematic here: https://www.glocktalk.com/threads/glock-tactical-suppressor-gts.1949747 Originally Posted By D_Man: Originally Posted By swampfoxoutdoors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnahn3D2sAcThink its possible to print something like this with ablative in the unit? More pics and schematic here: https://www.glocktalk.com/threads/glock-tactical-suppressor-gts.1949747 |
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Originally Posted By swampfoxoutdoors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnahn3D2sAcThink its possible to print something like this with ablative in the unit? Yawn. Printed out of PLA would probably last a bit longer. Wonder what they cost? |
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I'm doing calibration prints on Polymaker PA6-CF right now. I ordered my thread adapters from a USA supplier on Ebay that CNC machines them here in the USA. The out of center reviews on the Amazon thread adapters scared me away. Sure I'm paying $18 for the Ebay ones, but at least they have a higher chance of being centered. So far so good with the calibration prints though. I do have a conundrum with my printer though. Polymaker says bed temp needs to be 40-50C, but most other nylons are much higher like 100C. On my QIDI Plus 4 it doesn't engage the chamber heater unless the bed temp is higher than 70C, so apparently I can't utilize the chamber heating when using Polymaker filament. However, everything appears to be well stuck to the bed when I pop the flow calibration tests off. Upon reasearch it appears Polymaker requires higher printing temps, but lower bed temps because of something they add to the nylon. People get good results on Bambu P1S printers without a chamber heater, so I should be fine. 300BlkFDE print settings appear to be the ticket so far. Will be printing the FTN5 Rimfire Flow first, then later do a PCC or 30 Cal rifle one for my 300 Blk pistol build. |
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If anyone needs a replacement option for the Breek Arms blast shield for the FTN5 here's one that's compatible with Plan B muzzle devices. https://midstatefirearms.com/product/otx-plan-b-castle-blast-shield/ |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: The FTN.6 series of designs just dropped today, at the usual place, for anyone wanting to try them out. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
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"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By Blob:  I thought he quit "After PLABoi's departure, we've reorganized into the Freedom Technology Network (FTN) Dev Group. We're a closed group of testers and developers who've been given permission to continue the FTN line and make changes where we see fit." And this: "This is intended to be the final FTN package. There won't be an FTN.7." |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By D_Man: The FTN.6 series of designs just dropped today, at the usual place, for anyone wanting to try them out. Just downloaded the files and now going over them. The timing couldn't be better as I'm still running calibration prints to prepare for an FTN5 print, but now possibly FTN6. Just hope the hardware is the same since I just bought all that. |
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Originally Posted By memsu: Just downloaded the files and now going over them. The timing couldn't be better as I'm still running calibration prints to prepare for an FTN5 print, but now possibly FTN6. Just hope the hardware is the same since I just bought all that. The rimfire cans switched to 1/2-28 to 5/8-24 thread adapters instead of 3/14-16 since they are now slimmer. They look damn good though. Can't wait to print a couple. |
Just finished printing the FTN.6 Boosterless K Can. Need to the the 5/8" thread adapter.
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"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: memsu - thanks for the breek alternative @D_Man what changes did you notice, I'll have time to look later.  
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Originally Posted By D_Man: There's quite a lot of new stuff in this release. A big one is the rifle cans now use long threaded rods running down them to add strength vs. the whole sleeved design from before. They also all are set to print standing up with no supports, which will make them easier to make for many. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/157876/15h54h-3812347.png https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/157876/Evolution_of_FTN__18__Art_by_SMD_2026-3812345.png Oh sweet I didn't catch the rifle can change. I'm glad this happened. It is definitely a more appealing build now. |
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Just finished printing the FTN.6 Boosterless K Can. Need to the the 5/8" thread adapter. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102931/3723-3812344.jpg I'm curious to see how this one works. I only have a lone wolf "elimin8r" as a pistol can and I've been pretty unimpressed by it. |
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I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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I'm curious why people are printing 22 cans in expensive filaments now. It seems like pla+ should work fine for them, especially if they aren't on short barreled frt guns. I suppose the whole hot car deforming the can thing, but there's no reason to be attached to the can anymore, just make another one. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By DFARM: I'm curious why people are printing 22 cans in expensive filaments now. It seems like pla+ should work fine for them, especially if they aren't on short barreled frt guns. I suppose the whole hot car deforming the can thing, but there's no reason to be attached to the can anymore, just make another one. I'd be comfortable printing one in PLA+ for a bolt action rifle. Pistols will get too hot too quickly though. Really, a 22 can in PA6-CF is only like $3-5 in materials and it's not like they're hard to print so why not? ABS would be miles better than PLA and would still be a pretty cheap and easy print. |
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Just finished printing the FTN.6 Boosterless K Can. Need to the the 5/8" thread adapter. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102931/3723-3812344.jpg that looks clean, i was just looking at the model, but I have a 0.6 nozzle, and in the readme they say the texture may be different as they were based around 0.4. what size nozzle was that printed with? |
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Originally Posted By apierce918: that looks clean, i was just looking at the model, but I have a 0.6 nozzle, and in the readme they say the texture may be different as they were based around 0.4. what size nozzle was that printed with? |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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I decided to still print the FTN5 for now, since I just bought the thread adapters but they changed up the mounting for the FTN6 models. Just started a FTN Rimfire Flow spiral model. First time printing with PA6-CF and so far it's looking amazing. Using 300BlkFDE's print settings modified for OrcaSlicer and my QIDI Plus 4. Edit: Well, I stopped the print because I'm suffering on the overhangs and getting strings that aren't attaching to the plastic when it goes in a circle. Upon my slicer settings I had classic wall generation and only 3 walls as specified, but now trying arachne wall generation and 8 walls. There were areas that looked better supported in the print when I did that. I'm real curious if this has the potential of being more quiet than my Silencerco 22LR suppressor given that it might have more volume than it. |
| more experimenting with flow settings and the FTN5 rimfire, specifically printing only the first 90 layers so I get a good variety of geometry to inspect. Tried 0.9 and 280C (no gaps but serious stringing on overhangs), 0.93 and 300C (worse in both gaps and stringing), and 0.85 300C (better but some gaps and light stringing on overhangs). Now trying 0.87 and 300C and it's looking much better. I'm going to let this one ride and inspect the final print tomorrow morning. If it does well I'll use those settings for a rimfire flow (which is overbuilt enough to survive serious printing flaws), then a PCC flow if that one looks good. |
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