3D suppressors (Page 3 of 11)
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Got a whole bunch of approvals, ordering materials now for a few FTN5s. Anyone have a preference for epoxy for PA6-CF? I want to epoxy in the thread adaptor and a washer for the engraving requirement. Is the engraving requirement still the SN# on metal, name/trust and city+state (abbreviated) somewhere visible (not required to be on metal)? |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Got a whole bunch of approvals, ordering materials now for a few FTN5s. Anyone have a preference for epoxy for PA6-CF? I want to epoxy in the thread adaptor and a washer for the engraving requirement. Is the engraving requirement still the SN# on metal, name/trust and city+state (abbreviated) somewhere visible (not required to be on metal)? As for if the SN is acceptable in the plastic, there's still mixed answers. ATF has approved some people who explicitly explained on the form 1 supplement that it would be on the plastic. I would say if you're going to have the metal in the design anyway, just put it on there to be safe. I imagine it would be a question that will remain ambiguous until someone wins or loses a court case over it. |
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I had two that were approved with conditions: PLEASE NOTE THAT ATF HAS LONG HELD THAT PLACING A SERIAL NUMBER DIRECTLY ON POLYMER DOES NOT MEET THE SPECIFIED MARKING REQUIREMENT OF 27 CFR 478.92 AND 27 CFR 479.102 SINCE MARKING IN THIS MANNER WOULD MAKE THE SERIAL NUMBER SUSCEPTIBLE [TO] BEING READILY OBLITERATED, ALTERED OR REMOVED. A third one I explicitly stated on the application that the serial number would be engraved on an aluminum sleeve epoxied to the body and it was approved without conditions. JB Weld is what the instructions recommend. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I had two that were approved with conditions: A third one I explicitly stated on the application that the serial number would be engraved on an aluminum sleeve epoxied to the body and it was approved without conditions. JB Weld is what the instructions recommend. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I was not looking forward to using the dremel to engrave a whole billboard into the washer I'll epoxy to the base of the can. Being able to engrave most of it into the polymer body of the can will be far easier. I dremeled all mine. It's really not hard to do in aluminum and the sloppy handwriting adds nicely to the homemade aesthetic. 
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I was not looking forward to using the dremel to engrave a whole billboard into the washer I'll epoxy to the base of the can. Being able to engrave most of it into the polymer body of the can will be far easier. I've seen printable stamp guides for the washers called for in some designs |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By DFARM: I've seen printable stamp guides for the washers called for in some designs Originally Posted By DFARM: Originally Posted By CFletch: I was not looking forward to using the dremel to engrave a whole billboard into the washer I'll epoxy to the base of the can. Being able to engrave most of it into the polymer body of the can will be far easier. I've seen printable stamp guides for the washers called for in some designs |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I dremeled all mine. It's really not hard to do in aluminum and the sloppy handwriting adds nicely to the homemade aesthetic. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: I was not looking forward to using the dremel to engrave a whole billboard into the washer I'll epoxy to the base of the can. Being able to engrave most of it into the polymer body of the can will be far easier. I dremeled all mine. It's really not hard to do in aluminum and the sloppy handwriting adds nicely to the homemade aesthetic. |
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My name is too long for homemade engraving on a washer or aluminum ring so I bought zerozerothree's for $12 and $17 respectively. I'll be using JB Weld for both washers and the aluminum tube. Tarheel state firearms will engrave your tube for $40 but I think the homemade look of a Dremel would be appropriate. What Dremel bit would you guys suggest? And while we're on the engraving subject, does the engraved name have to exactly match the one on the Form 1 or is first initial, last name acceptable? That would shorten what I need engraved considerably. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: My name is too long for homemade engraving on a washer or aluminum ring so I bought zerozerothree's for $12 and $17 respectively. I'll be using JB Weld for both washers and the aluminum tube. Tarheel state firearms will engrave your tube for $40 but I think the homemade look of a Dremel would be appropriate. What Dremel bit would you guys suggest? And while we're on the engraving subject, does the engraved name have to exactly match the one on the Form 1 or is first initial, last name acceptable? That would shorten what I need engraved considerably. I abbreviated first name. Can abbreviate state. I’m not worried about it, I just finished my first FTN5 yesterday, annealed and letting it acclimate before I JB weld the adapter and collar. eta: looks like my 7 yr olds handwriting Attached File |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: My name is too long for homemade engraving on a washer or aluminum ring so I bought zerozerothree's for $12 and $17 respectively. I'll be using JB Weld for both washers and the aluminum tube. Tarheel state firearms will engrave your tube for $40 but I think the homemade look of a Dremel would be appropriate. What Dremel bit would you guys suggest? And while we're on the engraving subject, does the engraved name have to exactly match the one on the Form 1 or is first initial, last name acceptable? That would shorten what I need engraved considerably. I also didn't have form 1 engraving in mind when I formed my trust. I feel your pain. Lol |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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I'm probably wrong, but I thought the FTN5 needed an aluminum sleeve or something to that effect? My friend tried 223 through his rimfire FTN and it separated right where the first baffle was. Now he has a modular can(s). It was the flow through model and was about 1/2 step louder than the non-flow through FTN, which was about 1/2 step louder than Mustang and Jessies Girl, which was about 1/2 step louder than Hux Flow 22. There was a very small, yet noticable (if you were looking for it) difference, all of these on M&P 15-22 w/ 6.5 barrel. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: I'm probably wrong, but I thought the FTN5 needed an aluminum sleeve or something to that effect? My friend tried 223 through his rimfire FTN and it separated right where the first baffle was. Now he has a modular can(s). It was the flow through model and was about 1/2 step louder than the non-flow through FTN, which was about 1/2 step louder than Mustang and Jessies Girl, which was about 1/2 step louder than Hux Flow 22. There was a very small, yet noticable (if you were looking for it) difference, all of these on M&P 15-22 w/ 6.5 barrel. There are many many variants included in the FTN packages. Lower pressure cans can be made without sleeves. Rifle cans probably should be sleeved as a rule, but shooting 223 through a printed rimfire can will basically guarantee destruction regardless if it has a sleeve or not. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Thanks Blob. I checked it out but no luck, but I did a search and found a file by "unqualified dividend" with an insert for the SLR. I'll have to print it and see if it fits. https://guncadindex.com/@unqualified_dividend:7/Plan-B-Threaded-Insert-for-FTN.5-Rifle,-v1:2 Post feedback when you do. I have that tab open right now. |
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| for the ftn.5 9mm pcc cans i used gorilla epoxy for the metal washer on the top for the engraving. for the ftn.5 rimfire .22lr cans i printed , i bought cheap stainless engraving off amazon i think were 2" x .4" x 1mm thick and used bambu studio to countersink them into the actual can design so it fits flush and used gorilla glue 2 part epoxy. |
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I modded the FTN.5 PCC design to allow me to permanently embed a stainless steel washer into it without epoxy. I also converted it to use 5/8-24 threads so that I can use a simple thread adapter, which also helps hold the serial washer into place. I modded the FTN.5 PCC Flow to allow me to screw a direct thread mount into it and then resume printing to lock it into place. Both have worked well, but I like the results of the stainless washer a lot better. This is a test print showing how that works.  Form 1 serial number embedment test |
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After a week of printing, I have 5 3D printed cans now. The materials/parts cost me $122.12 all together (excluding the cost of the printer and dryer), for a per-can price of just a hair under $25/each. I'm pretty sure I have enough left for at least one more can, which would drive the cost down to under $21/each. Only the approval time for the eforms really stops me from just making one for every low RoF gun I own. |
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| That’s where I’m at. I wish this shit would have taken effect before I spent hundreds buying plan a mounts for all my shit so I could swap a bushwhacker 46 between guns. All my trash guns are gonna have a direct thread ftn5. The bushwhacker is staying on my broad river sd 9mm, recce5 on my nice 5.56 and I just need to buy a nice can for my Larue 6.5 Grendel and I’ll be set for life on cans. |
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Got some info on weights when all assembled, for those interested 9mm conventional 7.8oz 22 flowthrough 7.4oz 22 conventional 5.3oz I did not print a 9mm flowthrough like I planned because my slicer was reporting that it had floating geometry when I sliced it, which makes it very likely that it won't print properly. Not sure what was up with that, but I have 2 normal cans in 9mm so it's not a big deal to me. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Got some info on weights when all assembled, for those interested 9mm conventional 7.8oz 22 flowthrough 7.4oz 22 conventional 5.3oz I did not print a 9mm flowthrough like I planned because my slicer was reporting that it had floating geometry when I sliced it, which makes it very likely that it won't print properly. Not sure what was up with that, but I have 2 normal cans in 9mm so it's not a big deal to me. If you're talking about the FTN, the warning is because the baffles and tube are separate parts so the slicer thinks the baffles are floating in midair. The slicer will merge them together and print them as one single piece. You can ignore the warning in this case. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Got some info on weights when all assembled, for those interested 9mm conventional 7.8oz 22 flowthrough 7.4oz 22 conventional 5.3oz I did not print a 9mm flowthrough like I planned because my slicer was reporting that it had floating geometry when I sliced it, which makes it very likely that it won't print properly. Not sure what was up with that, but I have 2 normal cans in 9mm so it's not a big deal to me. I printed an FTN.5 PCC Flow and it is the best sounding suppressor I have ever run on my 9mm PCC's. The flow feature really works. |
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Originally Posted By chevrofreak: I printed an FTN.5 PCC Flow and it is the best sounding suppressor I have ever run on my 9mm PCC's. The flow feature really works. I"m very interested in this for this reason. I'm getting a printer just to get back into it. I had a prusa in 2018ish. But I'm probably going to look for a used Bambu. I'm looking at building a 9mm flow can. Even if it's close in performance to factory cans....seems to be worth it. I got like 5-6 9mm guns that need a can haha. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: If you're talking about the FTN, the warning is because the baffles and tube are separate parts so the slicer thinks the baffles are floating in midair. The slicer will merge them together and print them as one single piece. You can ignore the warning in this case. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: Got some info on weights when all assembled, for those interested 9mm conventional 7.8oz 22 flowthrough 7.4oz 22 conventional 5.3oz I did not print a 9mm flowthrough like I planned because my slicer was reporting that it had floating geometry when I sliced it, which makes it very likely that it won't print properly. Not sure what was up with that, but I have 2 normal cans in 9mm so it's not a big deal to me. If you're talking about the FTN, the warning is because the baffles and tube are separate parts so the slicer thinks the baffles are floating in midair. The slicer will merge them together and print them as one single piece. You can ignore the warning in this case. |
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Originally Posted By Dolor: I"m very interested in this for this reason. I'm getting a printer just to get back into it. I had a prusa in 2018ish. But I'm probably going to look for a used Bambu. I'm looking at building a 9mm flow can. Even if it's close in performance to factory cans....seems to be worth it. I got like 5-6 9mm guns that need a can haha. I'm just concerned about durability; it gets hot, fast, compared to the regular FTN.5 PCC. I may try to find an aluminum tube to epoxy to the outside to aid in cooling and rigidity. |
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Originally Posted By chevrofreak: I'm just concerned about durability; it gets hot, fast, compared to the regular FTN.5 PCC. I may try to find an aluminum tube to epoxy to the outside to aid in cooling and rigidity. Here's wjt the Read Me states The default reinforcement is aluminum pipe + JB weld, so you will need: -JB Weld Original Formula -2” OD Aluminum tube with 1.875” ID and 0.065” wall thickness from SiliconeIntakes.com *there is a thinner wall aluminum tubing (same I.D.) that's half the weight I am considering to keep overall weight down* Alternative is a carbon fiber tube (but this is a bit weaker, carbon fiber can split, and aluminum bonds to JB weld more strongly) -47mm ID and 50mm OD for the FTN.5 Rifle and PCC models -56mm ID and 60mm OD for the FTN.5 Rifle Flow models |
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Woke up to this instead of a FTN5 9mmflow. My printer decided to make some modern art overnight. I think it's a tree made from melted plastic, representing the futility of consumerism in the face of entropy. Attached File The spool was almost empty and twisted off the rollers, kinked, and caused the printer to do this. I'll be printing a spool holder insert for my dryer since this has happened before. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Woke up to this instead of a FTN5 9mmflow. My printer decided to make some modern art overnight. I think it's a tree made from melted plastic, representing the futility of consumerism in the face of entropy. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/20260726_055419_jpg-3801271.JPG The spool was almost empty and twisted off the rollers, kinked, and caused the printer to do this. I'll be printing a spool holder insert for my dryer since this has happened before. Ouch, been there done that. I'm either seeing Afroman, or Dragon's Blood Tree |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Woke up to this instead of a FTN5 9mmflow. My printer decided to make some modern art overnight. I think it's a tree made from melted plastic, representing the futility of consumerism in the face of entropy. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/20260726_055419_jpg-3801271.JPG The spool was almost empty and twisted off the rollers, kinked, and caused the printer to do this. I'll be printing a spool holder insert for my dryer since this has happened before. I'd put it on a shelf. Lol |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
|
Range report for my 1st outing with my FTN5 series cans. X1 22 flow can: tested on a 10/22 rifle. It was extremely quiet, better than my DA Mask. No noticeable gas to the face or increase bolt velocity. Excellent accuracy. No signs of baffle strikes. X2 22 conventional cans: tested on a bolt-action 22 rifle, a Beretta Bobcat, and a Ruger 45/22 pistol. It was extremely quiet on the rifle, better than my DA Mask, and quite good on the pistols. No signs of noticeable gas to the face, I'm sure there was some with the Bobcat but it was not attention-grabbing, which is surprising. Excellent accuracy. No signs of baffle strikes. X2 9mm PCC cans: Tested on a Tippmann .380 Pirate Gun and a 9mm Dark Mountain Arms Stowaway (5" barrel single shot bolt action). On the Pirate it was fine. No accuracy issues, no gas leakage, no signs of baffle strikes or other issues through half a box of ammo. 9mm was less good. Tested alignment beforehand, as I did with all of them, and there were no issues there. The gun had been used with a Wolfman extensively. With can #1 it blow the front half down the range at the halfway point with the first shot of basic 147gr. Can #2 broke on the 2nd shot, broke at the same exact place. Neither can showed any sign of baffle or edge strikes, just a jagged break at the same pont, which suggests a layer adhesion issue halfway throughthe print. That'd probably be around the 10 hour mark, which is when the dryer I'm printing from would have timed out. Will crush the baffle stacks, recover the serialized part, and try again with the dryer running the whole 20 hours of the print, and I think I'll go the flowthrough route since that should reduce the peak pressure. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Range report for my 1st outing with my FTN5 series cans. X1 22 flow can: tested on a 10/22 rifle. It was extremely quiet, better than my DA Mask. No noticeable gas to the face or increase bolt velocity. Excellent accuracy. No signs of baffle strikes. X2 22 conventional cans: tested on a bolt-action 22 rifle, a Beretta Bobcat, and a Ruger 45/22 pistol. It was extremely quiet on the rifle, better than my DA Mask, and quite good on the pistols. No signs of noticeable gas to the face, I'm sure there was some with the Bobcat but it was not attention-grabbing, which is surprising. Excellent accuracy. No signs of baffle strikes. X2 9mm PCC cans: Tested on a Tippmann .380 Pirate Gun and a 9mm Dark Mountain Arms Stowaway (5" barrel single shot bolt action). On the Pirate it was fine. No accuracy issues, no gas leakage, no signs of baffle strikes or other issues through half a box of ammo. 9mm was less good. Tested alignment beforehand, as I did with all of them, and there were no issues there. The gun had been used with a Wolfman extensively. With can #1 it blow the front half down the range at the halfway point with the first shot of basic 147gr. Can #2 broke on the 2nd shot, broke at the same exact place. Neither can showed any sign of baffle or edge strikes, just a jagged break at the same pont, which suggests a layer adhesion issue halfway throughthe print. That'd probably be around the 10 hour mark, which is when the dryer I'm printing from would have timed out. Will crush the baffle stacks, recover the serialized part, and try again with the dryer running the whole 20 hours of the print, and I think I'll go the flowthrough route since that should reduce the peak pressure. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/1000009531_jpg-3801425.JPG You cannot reuse the serial number to manufacture a new suppressor. You must file a new Form 1. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Range report for my 1st outing with my FTN5 series cans. X1 22 flow can: tested on a 10/22 rifle. It was extremely quiet, better than my DA Mask. No noticeable gas to the face or increase bolt velocity. Excellent accuracy. No signs of baffle strikes. X2 22 conventional cans: tested on a bolt-action 22 rifle, a Beretta Bobcat, and a Ruger 45/22 pistol. It was extremely quiet on the rifle, better than my DA Mask, and quite good on the pistols. No signs of noticeable gas to the face, I'm sure there was some with the Bobcat but it was not attention-grabbing, which is surprising. Excellent accuracy. No signs of baffle strikes. X2 9mm PCC cans: Tested on a Tippmann .380 Pirate Gun and a 9mm Dark Mountain Arms Stowaway (5" barrel single shot bolt action). On the Pirate it was fine. No accuracy issues, no gas leakage, no signs of baffle strikes or other issues through half a box of ammo. 9mm was less good. Tested alignment beforehand, as I did with all of them, and there were no issues there. The gun had been used with a Wolfman extensively. With can #1 it blow the front half down the range at the halfway point with the first shot of basic 147gr. Can #2 broke on the 2nd shot, broke at the same exact place. Neither can showed any sign of baffle or edge strikes, just a jagged break at the same pont, which suggests a layer adhesion issue halfway throughthe print. That'd probably be around the 10 hour mark, which is when the dryer I'm printing from would have timed out. Will crush the baffle stacks, recover the serialized part, and try again with the dryer running the whole 20 hours of the print, and I think I'll go the flowthrough route since that should reduce the peak pressure. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/1000009531_jpg-3801425.JPG @CFletch What filament did you use for all the cans? On the 9mm, what about adding a 1 inch wide aluminum tube/ring of some sorts at the breaking point with JB Weld to fill the gab, effectively bolstering that particular area plus securing the to halves together to stop them from separating. did you make a Rifle can yet? |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @CFletch What filament did you use for all the cans? On the 9mm, what about adding a 1 inch wide aluminum tube/ring of some sorts at the breaking point with JB Weld to fill the gab, effectively bolstering that particular area plus securing the to halves together to stop them from separating. did you make a Rifle can yet? Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By CFletch: Range report for my 1st outing with my FTN5 series cans. X1 22 flow can: tested on a 10/22 rifle. It was extremely quiet, better than my DA Mask. No noticeable gas to the face or increase bolt velocity. Excellent accuracy. No signs of baffle strikes. X2 22 conventional cans: tested on a bolt-action 22 rifle, a Beretta Bobcat, and a Ruger 45/22 pistol. It was extremely quiet on the rifle, better than my DA Mask, and quite good on the pistols. No signs of noticeable gas to the face, I'm sure there was some with the Bobcat but it was not attention-grabbing, which is surprising. Excellent accuracy. No signs of baffle strikes. X2 9mm PCC cans: Tested on a Tippmann .380 Pirate Gun and a 9mm Dark Mountain Arms Stowaway (5" barrel single shot bolt action). On the Pirate it was fine. No accuracy issues, no gas leakage, no signs of baffle strikes or other issues through half a box of ammo. 9mm was less good. Tested alignment beforehand, as I did with all of them, and there were no issues there. The gun had been used with a Wolfman extensively. With can #1 it blow the front half down the range at the halfway point with the first shot of basic 147gr. Can #2 broke on the 2nd shot, broke at the same exact place. Neither can showed any sign of baffle or edge strikes, just a jagged break at the same pont, which suggests a layer adhesion issue halfway throughthe print. That'd probably be around the 10 hour mark, which is when the dryer I'm printing from would have timed out. Will crush the baffle stacks, recover the serialized part, and try again with the dryer running the whole 20 hours of the print, and I think I'll go the flowthrough route since that should reduce the peak pressure. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/1000009531_jpg-3801425.JPG @CFletch What filament did you use for all the cans? On the 9mm, what about adding a 1 inch wide aluminum tube/ring of some sorts at the breaking point with JB Weld to fill the gab, effectively bolstering that particular area plus securing the to halves together to stop them from separating. did you make a Rifle can yet? The can shouldn't need a sleeve, they are pretty thoroughly tested as designed (which is whyI assume I did something wrong while printing them), though there are other designs are made to accept one (FTN4.5 series, which I have files for). They are much heavier, though, and I'm trying for lightweight with these cans. No desire to try a rifle can. All my threaded rifles are semi-autos and I have plenty of metal cans that I can use for those and not have to worry about rate of fire. Besides, by the time you have enough mass of polymer to stand up to rifle pressure you are much heavier than the metal cans I have. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: You cannot reuse the serial number to manufacture a new suppressor. You must file a new Form 1. One problem with posting things on the internet.... |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By Blob: You cannot reuse the serial number to manufacture a new suppressor. You must file a new Form 1. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: Range report for my 1st outing with my FTN5 series cans. X1 22 flow can: tested on a 10/22 rifle. It was extremely quiet, better than my DA Mask. No noticeable gas to the face or increase bolt velocity. Excellent accuracy. No signs of baffle strikes. X2 22 conventional cans: tested on a bolt-action 22 rifle, a Beretta Bobcat, and a Ruger 45/22 pistol. It was extremely quiet on the rifle, better than my DA Mask, and quite good on the pistols. No signs of noticeable gas to the face, I'm sure there was some with the Bobcat but it was not attention-grabbing, which is surprising. Excellent accuracy. No signs of baffle strikes. X2 9mm PCC cans: Tested on a Tippmann .380 Pirate Gun and a 9mm Dark Mountain Arms Stowaway (5" barrel single shot bolt action). On the Pirate it was fine. No accuracy issues, no gas leakage, no signs of baffle strikes or other issues through half a box of ammo. 9mm was less good. Tested alignment beforehand, as I did with all of them, and there were no issues there. The gun had been used with a Wolfman extensively. With can #1 it blow the front half down the range at the halfway point with the first shot of basic 147gr. Can #2 broke on the 2nd shot, broke at the same exact place. Neither can showed any sign of baffle or edge strikes, just a jagged break at the same pont, which suggests a layer adhesion issue halfway throughthe print. That'd probably be around the 10 hour mark, which is when the dryer I'm printing from would have timed out. Will crush the baffle stacks, recover the serialized part, and try again with the dryer running the whole 20 hours of the print, and I think I'll go the flowthrough route since that should reduce the peak pressure. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/1000009531_jpg-3801425.JPG You cannot reuse the serial number to manufacture a new suppressor. You must file a new Form 1. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: It's not manufacturing a new suppressor. I am removing the base of the broken one, which is the serialized part, and repairing the baffle stack. Perfectly legal. Original serialized component is unchanged, configuration is retained, no issues. Just noticed your state, by state law we can do what we want with silencers. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By DFARM: Just noticed your state, by state law we can do what we want with silencers. Originally Posted By DFARM: Originally Posted By CFletch: It's not manufacturing a new suppressor. I am removing the base of the broken one, which is the serialized part, and repairing the baffle stack. Perfectly legal. Original serialized component is unchanged, configuration is retained, no issues. Just noticed your state, by state law we can do what we want with silencers. |
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| Since the cans broke after the 1st baffle, I'm tempted to keep one as-is and shoot it until total destruction just to see what effect, if any, a single chamber k can has on noise, what effect the very non-concentric end has on accuracy, and to see how it eventually fails (of it does at all). |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: It's not manufacturing a new suppressor. I am removing the base of the broken one, which is the serialized part, and repairing the baffle stack. Perfectly legal. Original serialized component is unchanged, configuration is retained, no issues. I am not fully versed in suppressor law but I thought only a 07/02 could repair them. Not that I care what you do, but maybe not everything needs to be posted online. 
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Originally Posted By Blob: I am not fully versed in suppressor law but I thought only a 07/02 could repair them. Not that I care what you do, but maybe not everything needs to be posted online. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: It's not manufacturing a new suppressor. I am removing the base of the broken one, which is the serialized part, and repairing the baffle stack. Perfectly legal. Original serialized component is unchanged, configuration is retained, no issues. I am not fully versed in suppressor law but I thought only a 07/02 could repair them. Not that I care what you do, but maybe not everything needs to be posted online. I suppose they can come arrest me for incorrectly repairing a personally manufactured and properly registered suppressor, claiming I am actually dodging a $0 tax in a state that explicitly allows unregulated and unregistered NFA weapon manufacture. Would make for fascinating legal precedent. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I made it, I'm pretty sure I can repair it. Originally Posted By CFletch: I made it, I'm pretty sure I can repair it. ATF considers any new, additional suppressor parts you make to be a new suppressor itself. Q2: May a Federal firearms licensee repair a silencer by replacing worn or damaged components? A: A person who is licensed under the Gun Control Act (GCA) to manufacture firearms and who has paid the special (occupational) tax to manufacture National Firearms Act (NFA) firearms may replace a component part or parts of a silencer. Repairs may not be done if they result in removal, obliteration, or alteration of the serial number, as this would violate 18 U.S.C. 922(k). If a silencer part bearing the serial number, other than the outer tube, must be replaced, the new part must be marked with the same serial number as the replacement part. The term "repair" does not include replacement of the outer tube of the silencer. The outer tube is the largest single part of the silencer, the main structural component of the silencer, and is the part to which all other component parts are attached. The replacement of the outer tube is so significant an event that it amounts to the "making" of a new silencer. As such, the new silencer must be marked, registered and transferred in accordance with the NFA and GCA. In the event that identical replacement parts for a silencer are not available, new and different component parts may be used as long as the silencer retains the same dimensions and caliber. In addition, the repair may result in a minimal reduction in the length of the outer tube due to rethreading, but repair may not increase the length of the outer tube. Increasing the length of the outer tube significantly affects the performance of the silencer and results in the "making" of a new silencer. As stated above, a new silencer must be marked, registered and transferred in accordance with the NFA and GCA. Reducing the length of the tube by a minimal amount in order to repair a silencer is often necessary to replace damaged end caps, as the tube must be rethreaded. Such minimal reduction of the length of the tube uses all of the original parts, does not significantly affect performance of the silencer, and may be done as part of a repair process without making a new silencer. Persons other than qualified manufacturers may repair silencers, but replacement parts are "silencers" as defined in 18 U.S.C. 921(a)(24) that must be registered and transferred in accordance with the NFA and GCA. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: Unfortunately no, you cannot. ATF considers any new, additional suppressor parts you make to be a new suppressor itself. Originally Posted By D_Man: Originally Posted By CFletch: I made it, I'm pretty sure I can repair it. ATF considers any new, additional suppressor parts you make to be a new suppressor itself. Q2: May a Federal firearms licensee repair a silencer by replacing worn or damaged components? A: A person who is licensed under the Gun Control Act (GCA) to manufacture firearms and who has paid the special (occupational) tax to manufacture National Firearms Act (NFA) firearms may replace a component part or parts of a silencer. Repairs may not be done if they result in removal, obliteration, or alteration of the serial number, as this would violate 18 U.S.C. 922(k). If a silencer part bearing the serial number, other than the outer tube, must be replaced, the new part must be marked with the same serial number as the replacement part. The term "repair" does not include replacement of the outer tube of the silencer. The outer tube is the largest single part of the silencer, the main structural component of the silencer, and is the part to which all other component parts are attached. The replacement of the outer tube is so significant an event that it amounts to the "making" of a new silencer. As such, the new silencer must be marked, registered and transferred in accordance with the NFA and GCA. In the event that identical replacement parts for a silencer are not available, new and different component parts may be used as long as the silencer retains the same dimensions and caliber. In addition, the repair may result in a minimal reduction in the length of the outer tube due to rethreading, but repair may not increase the length of the outer tube. Increasing the length of the outer tube significantly affects the performance of the silencer and results in the "making" of a new silencer. As stated above, a new silencer must be marked, registered and transferred in accordance with the NFA and GCA. Reducing the length of the tube by a minimal amount in order to repair a silencer is often necessary to replace damaged end caps, as the tube must be rethreaded. Such minimal reduction of the length of the tube uses all of the original parts, does not significantly affect performance of the silencer, and may be done as part of a repair process without making a new silencer. Persons other than qualified manufacturers may repair silencers, but replacement parts are "silencers" as defined in 18 U.S.C. 921(a)(24) that must be registered and transferred in accordance with the NFA and GCA. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I made it, I'm pretty sure I can repair it. If they deem that illegal then their rule is stupid and should be ignored. It certainly isn't illegal under the actual law. I suppose they can come arrest me for incorrectly repairing a personally manufactured and properly registered suppressor, claiming I am actually dodging a $0 tax in a state that explicitly allows unregulated and unregistered NFA weapon manufacture. Would make for fascinating legal precedent. I'd donate to your defense fund and come cheer you on in court. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Bummer that your can blew up. All the time and expense we go to printing these things. Perhaps a brief O.T.& E. before you epoxy on your required information to see if it'll handle a box of ammo. I've run 100 rounds through my FTN5 PCC Flow and it's great. Fiberon filament printed at 300° with a 50° bed temp. Seemed a little loud when I was shooting it - never owned a suppressor before so I didn't know what to expect. Took some cellphone video while I was shooting and when I played it back I thought "dang, it really is quiet"! FTN 4.5 PCC is next on my print list. |
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Well, I woke up to another modern art project, a beautiful tree symbolizing the futility of getting this can to print. Looks like it broke free a few hours prior, so around the 16 hour mark or later. I'll wash the plate again and try some smaller prints (like a spool holder insert for my dryer) to see if cleaning it helps adhesion. Right now I'm running 55C chamber and 80C plate, with 280C extruder. Anyone think PA6-CF might benefit from different heat settings to improve adhesion? Those settings worked for the first 5 cans but not so much now. ETA: Ill drop the chamber to 50C and bump the extruder to 300C as the poster above uses, and see if that helps. If this fails, I'll try with a 50C bed as well. |
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| If you're using Fiberon, they call for a bed temp of 50° and no chamber heat. I tried a 100° bed and 60° in the chamber and the print broke loose twice. I also switched to glue stick instead of liquid. Seems I saw somewhere in the Bambu Wiki to use solid glue with their PA6CF. Printed 3 FTN5s with those settings and not had a problem. Bambu H2D by the way. Oh, and 300° on the nozzle. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: If you're using Fiberon, they call for a bed temp of 50 and no chamber heat. I tried a 100 bed and 60 in the chamber and the print broke loose twice. I also switched to glue stick instead of liquid. Seems I saw somewhere in the Bambu Wiki to use solid glue with their PA6CF. Printed 3 FTN5s with those settings and not had a problem. Bambu H2D by the way. Oh, and 300 on the nozzle. I haven't used glue, does it make that big a difference for long prints? Is there a specific type of glue stick to use, or just normal glue stick like kids use for arts and crafts projects? |
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Lot's of folks use the Elmer's purple glue stick but I use Bambu's...it's pricey compared to Elmer's. When I bought my H2D I got both their liquid and solid glue so that's what I've been using. I originally used the liquid glue for my suppressor prints but started having failures. Since switching to a glue stick I've had zero problems. When the print is finished and the plate cools, it is really stuck on there but comes off with some gentle prying with a scraper. I use both a textured PEI and engineering plate and had success with both. Just make sure - and I'm sure you are - scrubbing your plate with dish soap and water. Sometimes I'll give it a spritz of IPA and let that dry before applying the glue. Oh, and although Fiberon does not recommend any chamber heat, mine gets up to 50 or 55° during the printing process so I set the heat at 50° also. Good luck bro'. I feel your pain. |