3D suppressors (Page 2 of 11)
I wonder if printed cans will fall under these upcoming regulations.  Additive in America: Regulating 3D Printing |
Fighting for underscores everywhere.
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I'm told printing PA6CF should be done slow and hot and I've followed that advice on a few test pieces...the last one took 13 hours @ 30 mm/s. I even went to the trouble of annealing the piece for 12 hours at 100° and am very satisfied with the result. The FTN 4.5 PCC at approx 200 grams is going to take 25 hours at the same speed. This is on a P2S and I'd like to know if anyone else has printed a similar sized object at that speed. Interested if your print times are similar. And another question...for you guys using a washer for your Form 1 cans, how are you engraving them? Found these guys online, wondered if anyone has used them. https://www.cultivatedlaser.com/product/nfa-form-1-suppressor-engraving-service-washer-dog-tag-or-aluminum-tube-engraving-laser-precision-marking/ Zerozerothree Are you talking about the one that lays down at an angle with the built in supports? That one is showing 350 grams for me and about 24 hours. The Ftn.5 that stands up on the build plate is 190 grams and 13 hours. Long print times don't bother me at all as long as I get a good part at the end. I'm usually asleep and at work while it prints anyway. For engraving you can DIY with a dremel or metal stamps. Since I'm a machinist I just use the machines at work. 
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Originally Posted By Blob: Are you talking about the one that lays down at an angle with the built in supports? That one is showing 350 grams for me and about 24 hours. The Ftn.5 that stands up on the build plate is 190 grams and 13 hours. Long print times don't bother me at all as long as I get a good part at the end. I'm usually asleep and at work while it prints anyway. For engraving you can DIY with a dremel or metal stamps. Since I'm a machinist I just use the machines at work. Yes, the one laying on supports. I was just curious if others were experiencing the same print times so I could verify my settings. I don't mind the long print times either if that's what it takes to get a quality product. As far as engraving, I contacted both of those companies and they responded. Zerozerothree offers the engraved washers for $12 (7/8 x 1/38) and the small aluminum ring for $16. Very reasonable if you ask me. And their shipping was $6. I've got 1/8" metal stamps and an engraving tool but the results are not what I'd call great. Considering the time and effort to print a suppressor, I'm happy to spend the few additional dollars for a good engraving job. |
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i took the ftn.5 rimfire files and loaded the geometric into bambu studio, then added a rectangle countersink 1.5mm deep for a 10mmx50mm plate i bought on amazon for $11 for 25 of them, then engraved them on my laser. I loved the look of the geometric ftn.5 and figured its cleaner to epoxy a countersunk metal plate than engrave with the rotary. so far this can is the quiest .22lr i have ever heard, a little thick but crazy quiet. I printed it at .18 balanced quality , 100% infill, outside only brim at 15mm, using sunlu PA6_GF and my h2d took roughly 6 hours to print it using a .6 nozzle, printed incredible. waiting on a few 9mm pcc tax stamps to get approved. |
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Originally Posted By cmandak: i took the ftn.5 rimfire files and loaded the geometric into bambu studio, then added a rectangle countersink 1.5mm deep for a 10mmx50mm plate i bought on amazon for $11 for 25 of them, then engraved them on my laser. I loved the look of the geometric ftn.5 and figured its cleaner to epoxy a countersunk metal plate than engrave with the rotary. so far this can is the quiest .22lr i have ever heard, a little thick but crazy quiet. I printed it at .18 balanced quality , 100% infill, outside only brim at 15mm, using sunlu PA6_GF and my h2d took roughly 6 hours to print it using a .6 nozzle, printed incredible. waiting on a few 9mm pcc tax stamps to get approved. Sounds interesting, mind showing pics? |
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Originally Posted By mojeb21: I did two of the 22 FTn.5 flow used 300blkfde settings in pa6cf. Amazing I was looking at his support settings and noticed he has tree (auto) enabled. I printed a 1" segment of an FTN Rimfire and there's a little tree support in there. Is that really necessary? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I was looking at his support settings and noticed he has tree (auto) enabled. I printed a 1" segment of an FTN Rimfire and there's a little tree support in there. Is that really necessary? Print Settings: -All files are preoriented -3 walls, 100% infill -no supports -I recommend a 15mm outer brim to help with staying on the bed |
| I've always thought epoxying a metal washer inside a .22 suppressor would make a good blast baffle. If you really wanna make it better epoxy a small piece of tube inside with it to make a full on chamber. I've been thinking of registering a couple myself and printing one for my Ruger Mk IV and another for my .22 AR. I would probably do it in PPA or PPA-CF and anneal it though. |
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Originally Posted By Alien: I've always thought epoxying a metal washer inside a .22 suppressor would make a good blast baffle. If you really wanna make it better epoxy a small piece of tube inside with it to make a full on chamber. I've been thinking of registering a couple myself and printing one for my Ruger Mk IV and another for my .22 AR. I would probably do it in PPA or PPA-CF and anneal it though. That seems to be a good idea...guess you'd have to stop the print at the point where the blast chamber is done and insert the sleeve, then resume the print. Any reason that wouldn't work? But then for rimfire it may not be necessary. I usually shoot only CCI std velocity through my little AR blaster. Recently replaced the ugly KAK brace with a Strike Industries. This will be the host for my first suppressor. Never had in interest in one until I got my printer and discovered you can print the things for about $2. God Bless America. 
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I have an old form 1 .22 can I made awhile back. It is crude in baffle design; sounds ok, but nowhere near as good as I could make it sound with a more modern baffle stack or core. Id like to design and print a baffle stack for it, and just keep the blast baffle for durability. Destroy the other baffles. The can is on a form 1, engraved, etc. I could design a pretty robust baffle stack for it and print it out of ppa-cf. Anybody know I could this is legally? I am not an SOT. Maybe I could submit for a form 1 on a new can, and the new can is the core for the old can? Itd be a suppressor in a suppressor if I did it that way.. LOL |
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Originally Posted By hitchhiker: I have an old form 1 .22 can I made awhile back. It is crude in baffle design; sounds ok, but nowhere near as good as I could make it sound with a more modern baffle stack or core. Id like to design and print a baffle stack for it, and just keep the blast baffle for durability. Destroy the other baffles. The can is on a form 1, engraved, etc. I could design a pretty robust baffle stack for it and print it out of ppa-cf. Anybody know I could this is legally? I am not an SOT. Maybe I could submit for a form 1 on a new can, and the new can is the core for the old can? Itd be a suppressor in a suppressor if I did it that way.. LOL Originally Posted By hitchhiker: Figures. I may just do a 3d printed form 1 can that fits inside the old form 1 can and destroy the old baffles. Ugh. The gayTF needs to be gutted. You have to have paid the SOT to repair or replace a silencer legally. No reason to do anything to your existing can if you're filing a form 1, just print a whole new one. Also, you don't have to take pictures or talk about everything you do at home. |
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I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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There's a shop here in Indy that prints and selling suppressors. He's gone through the entire ATF paperwork. He told me that he uses a CF12 type filament and gets pretty decent life out of them. Mostly he sells .22rimfire sized suppressors. I've not bought one so I can't give any other info. |
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Originally Posted By VinceU1: There's a shop here in Indy that prints and selling suppressors. He's gone through the entire ATF paperwork. He told me that he uses a CF12 type filament and gets pretty decent life out of them. Mostly he sells .22rimfire sized suppressors. I've not bought one so I can't give any other info. What is he charging? I wouldn't imagine it would be worthwhile for a commercial product after you consider all the time it takes to dry, print, anneal, and assemble. Especially considering there are factory metal cans available for not much money that have essentially unlimited durability. |
| Got my approval yesterday for the form 1 filed 2/14. I'll submit another 6 or so this week now that I know I did the form correctly, so I have one for every single-shot and bolt-action 22 and 9mm. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: What is he charging? I wouldn't imagine it would be worthwhile for a commercial product after you consider all the time it takes to dry, print, anneal, and assemble. Especially considering there are factory metal cans available for not much money that have essentially unlimited durability. He calls them "Cheap Assed Silencers", and sells them for less than $75 each. I think he sells them like that 'cuz without the tax, why not. |
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Originally Posted By VinceU1: He calls them "Cheap Assed Silencers", and sells them for less than $75 each. I think he sells them like that 'cuz without the tax, why not. Originally Posted By VinceU1: Originally Posted By Blob: What is he charging? I wouldn't imagine it would be worthwhile for a commercial product after you consider all the time it takes to dry, print, anneal, and assemble. Especially considering there are factory metal cans available for not much money that have essentially unlimited durability. He calls them "Cheap Assed Silencers", and sells them for less than $75 each. I think he sells them like that 'cuz without the tax, why not. I always say (and only part jokingly) that if silencers ever come off of the NFA, every neighborhood will have a "3d printed silencer stand" selling $15 .22lr suppressors right next to the lemonade stand. Heck, maybe even "free lemonade with a suppressor". |
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Originally Posted By rleonard: Design in a HUB mount. Print with PCCF. One of our test units was used hard for a year running .22 AND 9MM. Cut it in half to inspect the internals. Looked like new. @rleonard - can you share pics? Curious as to what the sound performance was like. |
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."
Necessity is the plea for every infringement of freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.
Necessity is the plea for every infringement of freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.
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Originally Posted By 2tired2run: @rleonard - can you share pics? Curious as to what the sound performance was like. Originally Posted By 2tired2run: Originally Posted By rleonard: Design in a HUB mount. Print with PCCF. One of our test units was used hard for a year running .22 AND 9MM. Cut it in half to inspect the internals. Looked like new. @rleonard - can you share pics? Curious as to what the sound performance was like. I'd like to see pics also. Also curious about PCCF. Claims I've seen online say it's a tougher filament than PA6CF. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I'd like to see pics also. Also curious about PCCF. Claims I've seen online say it's a tougher filament than PA6CF. Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By 2tired2run: Originally Posted By rleonard: Design in a HUB mount. Print with PCCF. One of our test units was used hard for a year running .22 AND 9MM. Cut it in half to inspect the internals. Looked like new. @rleonard - can you share pics? Curious as to what the sound performance was like. I'd like to see pics also. Also curious about PCCF. Claims I've seen online say it's a tougher filament than PA6CF. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: same, this is the first I've heard about PCCF Originally Posted By CFletch: Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By 2tired2run: Originally Posted By rleonard: Design in a HUB mount. Print with PCCF. One of our test units was used hard for a year running .22 AND 9MM. Cut it in half to inspect the internals. Looked like new. @rleonard - can you share pics? Curious as to what the sound performance was like. I'd like to see pics also. Also curious about PCCF. Claims I've seen online say it's a tougher filament than PA6CF. Me as well, admittedly I'm not a 3d printing expert so I may just be out of the loop. What do you need to print with PCCF? |
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."
Necessity is the plea for every infringement of freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.
Necessity is the plea for every infringement of freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.
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I just submitted another x6 form 1s, x3 for .22 and x3 for 9mm, now that I know my form 1 from February was done correctly and approved. Going to make a mix of normal and flowthrough for each. The conventional ones will live permanently on some bolt-action and single-shot guns, and the flowthrough cans will travel around various semi-autos. I'll be using the files from FTN.5 for all of those. I was planning on using PA6-CF, but PCCF is sounding like it might be an option as well. |
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| Why PCCF? Comparing Fiberon PA6CF to Prusament PCCF using their published TDSs, PA6 has significantly higher HDT and moisture conditioned PA6 has better impact resistance as well. Maybe another brand of PCCF has better specs? Don't know, don't care to research. I would use the material that the suppressor is designed for and has been tested with and call it a day. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Why PCCF? Comparing Fiberon PA6CF to Prusament PCCF using their published TDSs, PA6 has significantly higher HDT and moisture conditioned PA6 has better impact resistance as well. Maybe another brand of PCCF has better specs? Don't know, don't care to research. I would use the material that the suppressor is designed for and has been tested with and call it a day. Good enough for me! Thanks Blob. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Doing it on the H2D? Yes, I am. Got it all set up and printed a poop chute and some 608 bearings with just the right nozzle and PLA. Still learning the nuances of a two nozzle machine. Got a second AMS HT so I can run two spools of CF. Any suggestions from the master? Finally got the P2S toolhead back together...how all those electrical connections worked was a learning experience. Broke one of them trying to figure out how it came apart cost me the circuit board. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Yes, I am. Got it all set up and printed a poop chute and some 608 bearings with just the right nozzle and PLA. Still learning the nuances of a two nozzle machine. Got a second AMS HT so I can run two spools of CF. Any suggestions from the master? Finally got the P2S toolhead back together...how all those electrical connections worked was a learning experience. Broke one of them trying to figure out how it came apart cost me the circuit board. Two spools of CF at the same time? One for support material or what? You could probably get away with plain ABS for supporting PA6. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I'm thinking when the spool in AMS HT #1 runs out, I can feed filament from the #2 AMS HT. It can be warmed up ready to go. I don't think support material is necessary for a suppressor, is it? Some designs are intended to print at an angle off horizontal, those use supports but they're usually baked into the design, not auto-generated ones. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: What about heating the chamber for the Fiberon PA6CF? Fiberon says it's not required. Sunlu prints just fine in my P2S without heat but then I don't know how durable it is. I would use heat. It will have less chance of warp and give better layer adhesion. |
| Waiting on the PA6CF to finish drying so I can print a FTN5 Rifle. Assembly directions call for either a Breek Castle Shield (unobtanium), a KAK flashcan (direct thread only) or an AIM 7 hub mount. Are there any alternatives out there similar to the Breek? The AIM 7 threaded adaptor is pretty wimpy compared to the Breek. SLR rifleworks makes a blast shield similar to the Breek but I don't know if it will fit into the Breek insert. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Waiting on the PA6CF to finish drying so I can print a FTN5 Rifle. Assembly directions call for either a Breek Castle Shield (unobtanium), a KAK flashcan (direct thread only) or an AIM 7 hub mount. Are there any alternatives out there similar to the Breek? The AIM 7 threaded adaptor is pretty wimpy compared to the Breek. SLR rifleworks makes a blast shield similar to the Breek but I don't know if it will fit into the Breek insert. There is supposed to be a HUB compatible remix out there but I couldn't find it on the index. If you search "FTN.5 EZ thread pack" you might find what you need but I am traveling for the next few days and can't verify. Otherwise you could model one in cad to fit the slr. |
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Thanks Blob. I checked it out but no luck, but I did a search and found a file by "unqualified dividend" with an insert for the SLR. I'll have to print it and see if it fits. https://guncadindex.com/@unqualified_dividend:7/Plan-B-Threaded-Insert-for-FTN.5-Rifle,-v1:2 |