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Posted: 2/25/2015 1:02:25 PM EDT
[#1]
I put mine in a heated ultrasonic with nothing but DI water. Don't think I'd do any more than that.
I used a welding rod oven set to 250F to dry it. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 1:03:21 PM EDT
[#2]
tag
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Posted: 2/25/2015 1:04:37 PM EDT
[#3]
My unit used a large ultrasonic on our NT4s. Right after they finished they put all the cans into an oven to dry it quickly. Never got around to asking then why, but I'm sure they had their reasoning.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 1:08:15 PM EDT
[#4]
I'm betting that heated ultrasonic - with an appropriate solvent that won't damage the finish (if any) on the can - is the easiest route here. Which solvent to use is probably the biggest variable.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 1:10:03 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm betting that heated ultrasonic - with an appropriate solvent that won't damage the finish (if any) on the can - is the easiest route here. Which solvent to use is probably the biggest variable. Im gunna try and drop it in our unit at the shop. Im not sure its ultra sonic, but its what I have access to and would be a free first step. It does heat and already has some sort of solvent in it so. If this doesn't work. Dip time Im not worried about the cans finish, its beat up pretty good anyways. I can rattle can it later if the finish disappears |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 1:12:25 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Im gunna try and drop it in our unit at the shop. Im not sure its ultra sonic, but its what I have access to and would be a free first step. It does heat and already has some sort of solvent in it so. If this doesn't work. Dip time Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'm betting that heated ultrasonic - with an appropriate solvent that won't damage the finish (if any) on the can - is the easiest route here. Which solvent to use is probably the biggest variable. Im gunna try and drop it in our unit at the shop. Im not sure its ultra sonic, but its what I have access to and would be a free first step. It does heat and already has some sort of solvent in it so. If this doesn't work. Dip time I really don't think the dip is going to help you. It's really a "lead only" solution that works for the lead-heavy fouling on rimfire cans. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 1:15:03 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I really don't think the dip is going to help you. It's really a "lead only" solution that works for the lead-heavy fouling on rimfire cans. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm betting that heated ultrasonic - with an appropriate solvent that won't damage the finish (if any) on the can - is the easiest route here. Which solvent to use is probably the biggest variable. Im gunna try and drop it in our unit at the shop. Im not sure its ultra sonic, but its what I have access to and would be a free first step. It does heat and already has some sort of solvent in it so. If this doesn't work. Dip time I really don't think the dip is going to help you. It's really a "lead only" solution that works for the lead-heavy fouling on rimfire cans. Man with the amount of rounds through that can, there is bound to be lead build up. Almost every 5.56mm round has lead exposed at the base. I have never seen anyone post a pic of their can with more build up than mine. Im not saying to dip your can every 100 rounds, but Im more than likely over 10k with this can, and I have never done anything to clean it, and by the looks of it, something needs to happen to get some of this gunk out. I can almost guarantee its a carbon/lead/vaporized copper mix in it. Look at the last pic I posted after I beat it around with a screw driver. Looks like the carbon is mostly gone and there are green spots(oxidized copper) on the blast walls |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 1:24:52 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I really don't think the dip is going to help you. It's really a "lead only" solution that works for the lead-heavy fouling on rimfire cans. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm betting that heated ultrasonic - with an appropriate solvent that won't damage the finish (if any) on the can - is the easiest route here. Which solvent to use is probably the biggest variable. Im gunna try and drop it in our unit at the shop. Im not sure its ultra sonic, but its what I have access to and would be a free first step. It does heat and already has some sort of solvent in it so. If this doesn't work. Dip time I really don't think the dip is going to help you. It's really a "lead only" solution that works for the lead-heavy fouling on rimfire cans. what do you think that shiny metal is in his blast chamber that is built up and rough? he scraped off the carbon build up and it's molten lead hardened in there. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 1:35:21 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I put mine in a heated ultrasonic with nothing but DI water. Don't think I'd do any more than that. I used a welding rod oven set to 250F to dry it. DI water is corrosive to Pb/Cu, additionally hot water is too. The question becomes how much time is needed to effectively remove? Will a stronger acid be optimum or potentially damaging? How much other crap do you have reducing the leachability of Pb/Cu? Depending on your shooting what you do may work fine. With a little science and understanding it really isn't hard to remove the fouling. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:23:48 PM EDT
[#10]
i clean them all the time, 80$ harbor freight ultrasonic tank, and either use proper UL carbon cleaning solution, or some brew, "50/50 hydrogen peroxide and vinegar" will remove lead,carbon,copper from a can FAST
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:25:57 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: GUNZILLA!!! Thanks! Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Dammit, GemTech recommended something to clean my suppressor but I can't remember what it is! Basically you just fill the suppressor up, let it sit, then empty it out and allow it to dry. I'll post the name this evening if I can find the thread. GemTech says Gunzilla or Ed's Red. GUNZILLA!!! Thanks! |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:28:33 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
i clean them all the time, 80$ harbor freight ultrasonic tank, and either use proper UL carbon cleaning solution, or some brew, "50/50 hydrogen peroxide and vinegar" will remove lead,carbon,copper from a can FAST I think Im gunna try the dip first. Seems the easiest and cheapest option I have at my disposal. If that doesn't work Im gunna drop it in the shops cleaner(again unsure if its an actual ultrasonic cleaner) and see what happens. Either way Im sure Ill atleast get some of the crud out. Not looking for it to be perfect. But Id like to get some of it out. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:29:40 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOrigi Man with the amount of rounds through that can, there is bound to be lead build up. Almost every 5.56mm round has lead exposed at the base. I have never seen anyone post a pic of their can with more build up than mine. Im not saying to dip your can every 100 rounds, but Im more than likely over 10k with this can, and I have never done anything to clean it, and by the looks of it, something needs to happen to get some of this gunk out. I can almost guarantee its a carbon/lead/vaporized copper mix in it. Look at the last pic I posted after I beat it around with a screw driver. Looks like the carbon is mostly gone and there are green spots(oxidized copper) on the blast walls Quote HistoryOrigi I really don't think the dip is going to help you. It's really a "lead only" solution that works for the lead-heavy fouling on rimfire cans. Man with the amount of rounds through that can, there is bound to be lead build up. Almost every 5.56mm round has lead exposed at the base. I have never seen anyone post a pic of their can with more build up than mine. Im not saying to dip your can every 100 rounds, but Im more than likely over 10k with this can, and I have never done anything to clean it, and by the looks of it, something needs to happen to get some of this gunk out. I can almost guarantee its a carbon/lead/vaporized copper mix in it. Look at the last pic I posted after I beat it around with a screw driver. Looks like the carbon is mostly gone and there are green spots(oxidized copper) on the blast walls |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:32:52 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
the "dip"... "50/50 hydrogen peroxide and vinegar" in a UL tank, EATS carbon.... i ran tests on this probably 10+ years ago... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Origi
I really don't think the dip is going to help you. It's really a "lead only" solution that works for the lead-heavy fouling on rimfire cans. Man with the amount of rounds through that can, there is bound to be lead build up. Almost every 5.56mm round has lead exposed at the base. I have never seen anyone post a pic of their can with more build up than mine. Im not saying to dip your can every 100 rounds, but Im more than likely over 10k with this can, and I have never done anything to clean it, and by the looks of it, something needs to happen to get some of this gunk out. I can almost guarantee its a carbon/lead/vaporized copper mix in it. Look at the last pic I posted after I beat it around with a screw driver. Looks like the carbon is mostly gone and there are green spots(oxidized copper) on the blast walls Think the dip alone will work? If I was to do the dip in a ultra sonic cleaner, I would have to foot the bill for one. I bet I could get a cheap small one from harbor freight if it comes down to it. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:34:42 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
with out a US, those wont do squat... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Dammit, GemTech recommended something to clean my suppressor but I can't remember what it is! Basically you just fill the suppressor up, let it sit, then empty it out and allow it to dry. I'll post the name this evening if I can find the thread. GemTech says Gunzilla or Ed's Red. GUNZILLA!!! Thanks! why not? does the gunzilla not act as advertised? or are you saying it wont be AS effective as with ultra sonic ? What if i put a bunch of gunzilla in a cup, then put my QD flash hider in the gunzilla, and leave it a day or say? will NOTHING happen? yes, real questions, about 2k rounds through the can, 75% with the flash hider. what is a UL tank ? |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:37:23 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
why not? does the gunzilla not act as advertised? or are you saying it wont be AS effective as with ultra sonic ? What if i put a bunch of gunzilla in a cup, then put my QD flash hider in the gunzilla, and leave it a day or say? will NOTHING happen? yes, real questions, about 2k rounds through the can, 75% with the flash hider. what is a UL tank ? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Dammit, GemTech recommended something to clean my suppressor but I can't remember what it is! Basically you just fill the suppressor up, let it sit, then empty it out and allow it to dry. I'll post the name this evening if I can find the thread. GemTech says Gunzilla or Ed's Red. GUNZILLA!!! Thanks! why not? does the gunzilla not act as advertised? or are you saying it wont be AS effective as with ultra sonic ? What if i put a bunch of gunzilla in a cup, then put my QD flash hider in the gunzilla, and leave it a day or say? will NOTHING happen? yes, real questions, about 2k rounds through the can, 75% with the flash hider. what is a UL tank ? Ultra sonic cleaner. I can tell you that carbon killer soaking in my can for 24 hours did nothing. I mean nothing. Well I guess it smelled good for awhile, but got nothing out of it That gunk in the can is essentially welded to it. Takes significant force with a hammer and screw driver to get what I got out of it |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:40:39 PM EDT
[#17]
OP... what barrel length you mainly shoot that on, and any full auto?
As for cleaning, someone on here had an aquarium/pond pump + a gallon CLP and just let that run through their cans for hours. That sounds like a good idea to me. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:42:50 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP... what barrel length you mainly shoot that on, and any full auto? As for cleaning, someone on here had an aquarium/pond pump + a gallon CLP and just let that run through their cans for hours. That sounds like a good idea to me. Most of its life its been between a 12.5 and 10.5 with brakes. Been used on a 16" C93(FH mount) and a 22" bolt gun(old MB mount) Its seen so little full auto I hate to say I have even used it full auto. About a magazine worth on a 16" barrel full auto. I didn't dump it |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:43:57 PM EDT
[#19]
If you do the dip, remember it is super toxic and absorbs directly through skin...don't get it on you or your clothes.
Also, it is hazmat...bigtime, so bottle it up and dispose at a proper center. Don't be like the dbags who flush it into the water supply. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:49:47 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you do the dip, remember it is super toxic and absorbs directly through skin...don't get it on you or your clothes. Also, it is hazmat...bigtime, so bottle it up and dispose at a proper center. Don't be like the dbags who flush it into the water supply. Ive done it before. I was wanting to go a different route due to all of that. But really its the cheapest and easiest option available to me. I really have no doubt that itll atleast get something out of the can |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:49:53 PM EDT
[#21]
I bet if you put a bunch of those stainless steel media pins in there and ran it in your tumblr, or agitated it in some way with solution and the pins, it'd come out sparkling clean.
You'd have to shake and rinse the pins out afterwards, but that wouldn't be too hard. the other thing I'd try is plug one end, fill with over cleaner, heat it for a while in the oven, then rinse it out. Oven cleaner pretty much cleans anything off metal. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:50:52 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I bet if you put a bunch of those stainless steel media pins in there and ran it in your tumblr, or agigated it in some way with solution and the pins, it'd come out sparkling clean. You'd have to shake and rinse the pins out aftrwards, but that wouldn't be too hard. I do have a media tumbler. Never thought of using it like this. Could be an option |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 2:59:12 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: what do you think that shiny metal is in his blast chamber that is built up and rough? he scraped off the carbon build up and it's molten lead hardened in there. Lol no..That would be the inside of the stainless tube that had the coating removed with a screwdriver and hammer. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 3:02:44 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lol no..That would be the inside of the stainless tube that had the coating removed with a screwdriver and hammer. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
what do you think that shiny metal is in his blast chamber that is built up and rough? he scraped off the carbon build up and it's molten lead hardened in there. Lol no..That would be the inside of the stainless tube that had the coating removed with a screwdriver and hammer. No there is definitely something else in there shiny. Im guessing it to be lead as well. It is not part of the can, not originally atleast. With the amount of rounds down the can there is bound to be lead build up. Atleast some. Most 5.56mm has exposed lead bases If the dip doesn't work, then itll get the shops tank. If that doesn't work, then its back to the drawing board. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 3:03:33 PM EDT
[#25]
You could always use a sandblaster on it as well. It would easily clean the blast chamber.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 3:07:08 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You could always use a sandblaster on it as well. It would easily clean the blast chamber. Definitely another option. The screw driver got a good bit out. The rest seems to be literally welded to the can. Id really like to try and get some fouling out of the forward baffles. I cant see what it looks like inbetween them, but there is surely gunk there as well. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 4:15:48 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you do the dip, remember it is super toxic and absorbs directly through skin...don't get it on you or your clothes. Also, it is hazmat...bigtime, so bottle it up and dispose at a proper center. Don't be like the dbags who flush it into the water supply. He could just dump it somewhere in the Himalayans. 
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Posted: 2/25/2015 4:40:14 PM EDT
[#28]
Maybe you can put in the oven on a self cleaning cycle. They do get up over 700 degrees but it should turn the carbon to soft ash.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 4:53:19 PM EDT
[#29]
Tag
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Posted: 2/25/2015 4:53:43 PM EDT
[#30]
Soak it for a day or two in one of those automotive fuel additives like ZMAX that seep into the metal pores...it should creep up under the deposits then...Clamp it to your porch/deck/sawhorse...don rain coat and goggles...fire up 3000 PSI pressure washer, insert ZERO degree tip...spray 3000 PSI ZERO Degree water stream into the orifice rotating it around to get all the nooks and crannys and blast the crap out of there...be prepared to refinish can with rattle can header paint...
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Posted: 2/25/2015 7:04:14 PM EDT
[#31]
I'd bet the dip will work better than some think.
Tag for updates. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 7:16:25 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Personally, I'd just call AAC. They really cared about my single shot .45 ACP can. Yeh, you REALLY DO NEED A PISTON! I am surprised that their answer was not, "buy a new can". Needless to say, my other cans are not AAC. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:00:59 PM EDT
[#33]
Seriously $80 Harbor Freight ultrasonic tank and super clean. The walls of my can were fucking smooth, as silk. This is after about 300 rounds since the cleaning. It took about an hour of soaking. Also don't be afraid of the coating getting gone because it will anyways when you shoot it enough. Its not shiny when its bare.
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Posted: 2/26/2015 9:53:25 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Seriously $80 Harbor Freight ultrasonic tank and super clean. The walls of my can were fucking smooth, as silk. This is after about 300 rounds since the cleaning. It took about an hour of soaking. Also don't be afraid of the coating getting gone because it will anyways when you shoot it enough. Its not shiny when its bare. <a href="http://s213.photobucket.com/user/Sleeper362/media/D76B079D-A482-43D3-A767-9E92F9A0E41B_zps3a48yieb.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc156/Sleeper362/D76B079D-A482-43D3-A767-9E92F9A0E41B_zps3a48yieb.jpg</a> Oh I could care less about outside appearance. I may end up going this route as well. |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 9:55:12 AM EDT
[#35]
AAC has responded saying ultra sonic cleaners and the dip are good to go.
Nick who I have been emailing with told me he believed the ultrasonic would do more to clean it but warned it would likely strip away the exterior coating of the can. Non issue to me as the exterior coat is beat up pretty badly anyways |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 1:18:23 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: AAC has responded saying ultra sonic cleaners and the dip are good to go. Nick who I have been emailing with told me he believed the ultrasonic would do more to clean it but warned it would likely strip away the exterior coating of the can. Non issue to me as the exterior coat is beat up pretty badly anyways Exterior needs CLP then:  |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 1:23:13 PM EDT
[#37]
I use this with my sealed .22LR can and it gets WAYYY worse than that. Gets in nice and clean in no time.. Its on sale right now may pick up another at that price just to have. It also does a great job on old crusty brass. only downside is you cant fit more than 200 or so in at a time due to its size
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNzkwMjkyMTIiLCJza3UiOiI5NTU2MyIsImlzIjoiNjkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMzIyNyJ9%0D%0A |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 2:07:56 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use this with my sealed .22LR can and it gets WAYYY worse than that. Gets in nice and clean in no time.. Its on sale right now may pick up another at that price just to have. It also does a great job on old crusty brass. only downside is you cant fit more than 200 or so in at a time due to its size http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNzkwMjkyMTIiLCJza3UiOiI5NTU2MyIsImlzIjoiNjkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMzIyNyJ9%0D%0A Yup that's the one Im going to check out. What cleaner did you use? |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 3:36:46 PM EDT
[#39]
What is dip?
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Posted: 2/26/2015 3:47:14 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is dip? 50/50 hydrogen peroxide and vinegar. Its nasty ass shit though |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 3:48:25 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What is dip? oh. duh. Thanks. peroxide and acetic acid. What is the resulting chemical compound, and HOW ugly is it ? |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 4:08:54 PM EDT
[#42]
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Posted: 2/26/2015 4:45:00 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote Historythe mixture isnt lead acetate, it's paracetic acid. It becomes lead acetate after it absorbs the lead from the silencer. |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 4:47:39 PM EDT
[#44]
ultrasonic cleaner over an extended period, good rising, flush out with something that will evaporate quickly. repeat until clean.
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Posted: 2/26/2015 4:56:13 PM EDT
[#45]
IM me your mailing address I have a product for you to try in the ultrasonic. I'll send you a sample N/C.
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Posted: 2/26/2015 4:59:47 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
IM me your mailing address I have a product for you to try in the ultrasonic. I'll send you a sample N/C. Im sent |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 8:04:55 PM EDT
[#47]
Dday tonight is likely
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Posted: 2/26/2015 8:05:55 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dday tonight is likely <a href="http://s301.photobucket.com/user/cclement45/media/20150226_180119_zpshk4vrtck.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn63/cclement45/20150226_180119_zpshk4vrtck.jpg</a> nice |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 8:21:42 PM EDT
[#49]
If you want to preserve what is left of your finish you should wrap a rubber band on each end of it so that it doesn't vibrate against the basket.
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Posted: 2/26/2015 8:27:37 PM EDT
[#50]
from wiki:
. An aqueous solution of lead(II) acetate is the byproduct of the 50/50 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegarused in the cleaning and maintenance of stainless steel firearm suppressors (silencers) and compensators. The solution is agitated by the bubbling action of the hydrogen peroxide, and the main reaction is the dissolution of lead deposits within the suppressor by the acetic acid, which forms lead acetate. Because of its high toxicity, this chemical solution must be appropriately disposed by a chemical processing facility or hazardous materials centre. Alternatively, the solution may be reacted with sulfuric acid to precipitate nearly insoluble lead(II) sulfate. The solid may then be removed by mechanical filtration and is safer to dispose of than aqueous lead acetate |
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